| |
|
"Ozone Generators for Pools"
Used with
other sanitizers, to produce better water quality.
The Pool & Spa Informational Website
askalanaquestion.com |
Alternative Pool Water Sanitizing
|
Scroll down to browse
through some archived SWIMMING POOL questions and answers.
Please access the Pool Problems Page and other links, at the top of
every page, for additional information.
|
Ozone (O3)
is a form of Oxygen (O2)
and is a powerful oxidizing agent that can control microorganisms, destroy
organic contamination, byproduct build ups, dead algae and organic debris.
It is not a complete sanitizer in the truest sense, because it does not remain
in the water for long periods of time. In a swimming pool, there must be a
backup sanitizer such as, chlorine or bromine, usually at about 1/2 the normal
level. Because the ozonator does most of the oxidizing, far less
chlorine or bromine will be required to maintain any given level. Ozonators, also known as Ozone
Generators, can greatly reduce the quantity of the backup sanitizer
that would, otherwise, be required. This is especially important in larger pools, heavy bather
usage situations and commercial pools. The devices that generate Ozone fall
into two categories: UV or Corona discharge. Commercial pools,
larger residential pools or heavy bather load pools should utilize a
corona-discharge unit, as it is capable of producing larger amounts of ozone. With ozonation, the
water chemistry should be maintained in the typical manner.
Clicking
on the underlined and highlighted
"keywords" or "catch phrases," in the archived answers will
give you access to additional information on that topic or product.
Please refer to the Glossary, if
there are terms or phrases that require explanation.
For an alphabetized listing
of the entire contents of the website, use the
Table of Contents link, on top of
every page.
UltraPure Ozone Generators
(Click on the Image for
more information.)
|
More information about UltraPure Ozone Generators can be found on the
UltraPure Water Quality, Inc. Preview Page
in the "Pools & Equipment" Product Information Section.
Links are available to connect you to their website.
|
► Ozone, Chlorine &
ORP?
I have a system with an ozone
generator and a controller for pH and ORP on my swimming pool. I keep my pH at
7.5 and my ORP at 700. The one thing I have always been confused about is how
long to run my filter pump. And what should the Chlorine level be? I've
been told I can use almost no chlorine, if I run my system 24 hours a day.
Presently I am maintaining a chlorine level of about 0.4 - 0.6 ppm and run my
filter for 10 - 12 hours a day, usually for 12 hours during summer and when the
pool is heated. I'd like to minimize chlorine usage. As I see it,
it's a trade off between chemical usage, electricity for the pump and how much
chlorine in the water I'm willing to deal with. Is my practice an
acceptable one, or would you suggest otherwise? Thank you.
Ken C., 4/23/2005
You're right.
It is a trade off. I suggest that you continue as you are doing. It
is not a good idea to give up on the chlorine, as its presence acts as
confirmation that proper sanitation exists. With the
ozone generator, it will
take little chlorine to maintain this lower than normal level. The big
negative, about chlorine, is formation of odorous and irritating chloramines.
In your pool, this is not a problem because the ozone destroys the chloramines.
Chlorine acts as a persistent sanitizer and helps backup the ozone. You
seem to have things well in hand. All I can suggest is that you operate
the filter and ozonator for two sessions per day, by dividing the current
running times in half. That way the pool will be without ozone being
produced for fewer hours at a time.
For more information about Ozone and Ozone Generators go to:
www.waterquality.net I hope that I have been helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 4/24/2005
►
Ozone: how does it work?
How do pool
Ozonators work? Will other chemicals and chlorine still be required?
Thanks for the help. Sincerely.
Jason H., Reading,
PA, 7/24/2003
There are two
common methods of generating ozone in a pool. Most units pass air over
a UV light source, that converts oxygen into ozone. Others units use
corona discharge (electric sparking similar to lightning) to convert oxygen into
ozone. The corona discharge units can produce higher quantities of ozone.
In a swimming pool, the ozone can destroy organic matter, including algae and
bacteria. The
Ozone Generator is usually operated in conjunction with the timer
and the filter. Once the Ozonator is shut off, all production of ozone
ceases and the ozone in the water quickly leaves - there is no residual
effect. At this point, the pool is subject to microbial growth, especially
on the walls and in the corners. Because of this limitation of ozone,
there must be a backup sanitizer, most often chlorine or bromine.
However, the Ozonator will reduce the amount of chlorine or bromine required, to
a fraction of what it would be, otherwise. So far as the overall water chemistry is
concerned, it must be maintained in consideration of water clarity and quality,
bather comfort and corrosiveness. I hope that I
have been of assistance.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 7/24/2003
► High Chlorine
Levels?
Alan-we
have a new indoor pool and are having trouble keeping the chlorine level
down. The pool is used primarily by one swimmer, and is covered around 23
hours per day. We’ve been using a dichlor shock treatment once a week per
instructions. I’ve shut our chlorinator (which uses 3” tablets) off entirely.
With the chlorinator off for more than one week now, and with a shock per
above one day ago, our readings are total chlorine (between 3 and 10), free
chlorine (10+), with pH, total alkalinity, and stabilizer at normal levels.
When the cover comes off, there is a definite chlorine odor. The pool
has an ozone generator, and the mineral-type skimmer inserts in each of two
skimmers. I suspect that with no sunshine burn off, and limited bather
use, there is limited consumption of chlorine. Is the solution to not shock
and dribble in very little chlorine, or shock using less shock product?
We’re literally itching for an answer! Thanks!
Stephen R., Alaska, 1/31/2004
I can see from your email address why the pool is indoors. I do have an
answer for you, but it may not, entirely, be the one you expect. Stop adding
all chlorine: either in the form of tablets or shock! Your pool is
equipped with an
ozonator,
mineral sanitizer, is located indoors, is covered
most of the time and not subject to high bather loads. This means that the
ozonator and the mineral sanitizer should be more than capable of meeting all
of your pool's sanitizer requirements. The chlorine levels are building up
because there is nothing for them to react with - just as you might have
suspected.
The recommendations for chlorination and shocking were probably made based on
the pool NOT being equipped with an ozonator and mineral
sanitizer.
The only time you will ever need to shock the pool is at the first sign of a
loss of water quality or after periods of heavy bather usage. Under these
circumstances use a full strength chlorine or non-chlorine shock. The
equipment that you have is what I frequently recommend to pool owners that are
sensitive to either chlorine or bromine. I hope that this will solve the
problem.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 2/1/2004
|
Visit The Test Equipment Store, for all your needs. |
►
Ozone Levels?
I received the
ozone tester. What should the optimum reading be? I see there are 4 levels -
0.01ppm, 0.025, 0.05 and 0.10. Thanks.
Peter B.,
5/6/2005
Thank you for
ordering the Ozone Test kit.
I don't believe that there is a standard for ozone. Ozone is short lived, with about 1/2 lasting for only
20 minutes. It reacts almost instantly with organic matter, has limited
solubility in water and gasses off. All this conspires to make
ozone
testing
challenging. It is best done right at the return jet. The presence
of measurable amounts of ozone, in the return flow, confirms that the
ozone generator
is working. All that should be present, are the low levels shown on the
test kit. Higher levels, especially in indoor situation could prove
irritating. Equally important are the facts that the ozonator size
(output) should be adequate for the spa water volume, that it be operated for
sufficient periods of time and that a backup sanitizer, such as chlorine,
bromine or a
mineral sanitizer be used. Now that you have confirmed that
ozonation is occurring, you need to maintain the backup sanitizer at about 1/2
of the normal concentration. Good luck with the spa and thanks for ordering the
test kit.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 6/6/2005
►
Why Aren't Ozonators More Popular?
Ozonators sound like
a good idea. So why are they not very popular? Is it good for a lazy
pool owner?
John W.,
6/24/2005
They may not
be as popular as chlorine, but their popularity is increasing in all types of
residential and commercial pools. The use of
ozone generators has been widespread in
spas for many years. Ozonators are
not complete stand alone pool sanitizers.
A backup system, usually chlorine or bromine must be used. A salt chlorine
generator can be used in conjunction with an ozonator
and will provide additional benefits.
Mineral sanitizers and ionizers can also be used in conjunction with ozone and
chlorine, to provide backup sanitizing and reduce the chlorine usage. In addition, all of the important water chemistry parameters must be maintained,
as in a chlorine-maintained pool. Yes, it is convenient. Yes,
it will reduce the overall requirements for sanitizer and will simplify chemical
balancing. Yes, it is good for "lazy" pool owners. There are other
choices that might be worthy of your consideration. Salt chlorine generators can completely eliminate the need
for any chlorine and there is no need for a backup. Still the water
chemistry must be maintained. But isn't that what pool service companies
are for? I hope that I have been of assistance.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 6/24/2005
► Chlorine And Ozone?
I purchased a pool with an
ozone generator this last summer and had the pool company come and start it up for me.
They mentioned that if I had a pool service come out to work on my pool they
would tell me something is wrong with my pool as there are air bubbles in my
filter pump that are being pushed out to my pool - the ozonator manufacturer
states this is absolutely normal. He was telling me that these bubbles will
ruin my filters and I will find myself replacing them much sooner than if I
didn't have an ozonator. He at one point bluntly made the statement that they
are fancy pieces of equipment that don't actually work - that bugged me.
He also pointed out that the pressure in the filter casing was below 10lbs. My
pool company told me is should be below 10 at all times, if it gets above ten
that I need to clean the filters. This pool service guy told me that it should
be between 15 and 20 lbs at all times to keep the filters from expanding and
contracting which, according to him (the pool guy), will ruin my filters. I
have been toying with the idea of putting in a switch that will shut off the air
flow from the ozonator to see what kind of performance differences I get by
running straight chlorine vs. chlorine with an ozonator. Your comments? Thanks.
Chris K., TX, 4/1/2005
An
ozone generator
should be installed before the pump, so that the proper venturi effect will be
created.
Doing this sends ozone through the filter and results in a cleaner filter with
less debris and oily accumulations. That's why you see bubbles and why
there will be longer filter runs. The
pressure is staying lower, in part, because of the action of the ozone. Unless your
filter manufacturer give you information to the contrary, I don't see a problem.
You don't have to install a switch to shut off the air flow to see what will
happen. I can tell you! You will positively use more chlorine and
that should make the "pool guy" happy. Ozonators and chlorine work well together. A case of they said vs. he
said. Simple as that. I hope that I have shed some light on the
subject.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 4/1/2005
► Ozone Is Not Always Enough?
I have a 40000ltr above ground
therapy pool. This means it is kept at 94 deg. at all times and that only
2 people are in the water at a time. The pool is lined with a thick PVC
liner, n a closed enclosure and covered during the night. The filter is a
3/4 HP with zeolite filter. It runs 24/7circulating all the water every3
hours. Sanitation is ozone only- a GDS process with a sidestream injection
and contact tank. Ozone generator is controlled by an inline ORP
controller, measuring water returning from the pool and keeping them at 680-780
mv. Pool pH is kept around 7.3. 6 months ago I enlarged my pool
(took it apart and added new segments. \All above data is post op.)
Ever since then, the walls of the new segments, lined with the same kind of
liner, are becoming slimy slippery. I have been scrubbing it off every
week and it just keeps coming back. I have tried super-chlorinating, which
seems to keep it clean for 3-4 days, but then its back .if I let it be it
eventually spreads to the 'old' parts of the pool. Could it have something
to do with ozone-zeolite reaction? Could ozone be sucking plasticizers out
of the liner( and still doing it after 6 month's). I will be glad to add
any more info you need to speculate this. Tnx
Nir Z., 12/7/2008
There
is no mystery here!!!
Ozone generators
are great additions to any pool, spa or therapy pool. While they do a great
job at reducing the biological loads and waste products, they cannot be used
alone and achieve proper results. Ozone does not remain in the water very
long and will be unable to prevent the growth of algal or bacterial slimes
on the walls or in the corners. To keep all of the underwater surfaces free
of microorganism growth, it is mandatory to use a sanitizer such as chlorine
or bromine. Because the ozone generator will be doing most of the
oxidation, the amount of chlorine required, to maintain any given level,
will be greatly reduced. In other words, you still should be maintaining at
least a low level of chlorine or bromine and, to do so, it will require less
chemical, than if the ozone generator was not present. Chlorine and bromine
are persistent sanitizers and having the ozonator present, allows their use
to focus on sanitizing. When the ozone
generator is off, the chlorine or bromine will still be present to sanitize
and oxidize. Adding a SPA
FROG mineral sanitizer adds another
layer of persistent sanitation and helps you maintain proper conditions,
while favoring the low end of the recommended chlorine or bromine range. No
mention of chlorine use was mentioned in your letter, except to help clean
up the microorganism growth. If you were not directed to add and maintain a
chlorine or bromine level, you were ill-informed or mislead. Just
ORP
is not enough. The high operating temperature only adds to the problem.
The
zeolite
is not part of this problem. At this point, you need to shock the pool and
get a stable free chlorine level and all traces of slime removed. From this
point forward, try to maintain a free chlorine level of 1-2 PPM or a bromine
level of 2-4 PPM, while operating the ozone generator for as much time, as
practical. I hope that this information will be helpful.
Sincerely. Alan
Schuster, 12/8/2008
► Ozone Generating
Bromine?
Thinking back to my
chemistry days I was hoping that NaBr + O3 = NaOBr which is a very powerful
sanitizer! When you back out the O3
you would just be left with good 'ole Sodium Bromide. And with Ozone being
an extremely powerful oxidizer (more potent than MPS or Chlorine) this alone
would convert the Sodium Bromide into Hypobromous Acid. Please let me
know your thoughts on this!
Shawn K.,
11/12/2008
The chemistry may be right, but it won't work
that way, in a pool or spa. Not enough
ozone is present, for long enough to generate a measurable amount of bromine.
If that were not the case, the bromine concentration would rise, as ozone was
produced. Some years ago, a special unit was designed with a reaction chamber
and a high ozone output. It turned out to be too costly a way to generate
bromine. Go to:
www.waterquality.net The
UltraPure ozone generators are better performers, than most
others on the market. Some ozonators are dead, after only a few months.
Just because you see bubbles, doesn't mean
ozone is being produced.
Testing Ozone
is not simple and needs to be done right at the return. In most cases, you
should smell ozone, as the spa cover is removed. In practical terms the
goal should not be to totally eliminated all use of chlorine or bromine, but to
minimize the use and lower the concentration. Towards that goal, the
use of an ozone generator, a
mineral sanitizer
and a lower than usual level of chlorine or bromine is achievable. I am a
believer in having something to measure and test. Finding a chlorine or
bromine level, acts as confirmation that the ozonator is performing properly, if
only small amounts of bromine or chlorine are required.
I hope that this information is helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 11/12/2008
► Minimizing
Chemicals?
After reading more of your
advise to others, I am wondering if we could get away with using NO chlorine by
using an ozonator along with a mineral pac or an ionizer. We are getting a
small (3,600 gals.) fiberglass pool which will be covered with a 4" spa cover,
and will also be under a patio cover, used by 2 adults. We plan to keep the
pool at 87-90 degrees. What would you recommend? Would our filter (sand) have
to run longer if we do not use chlorine or a salt chlorinator? What other
additives/tests would we need to use, and would we have to be extra careful to
add fresh water, because of the pool being covered all the time? Is it smarter
to just go with a salt chlorinator? Our pool installer is discouraging us from
use the salt chlorinator, and if indeed we can get by with no chlorine, that
would be ideal. However, we want to keep things simple as well as clean,
and safe. I'm obviously in the dark about pool chemistry and appreciate
any insight that you can offer. Thanks.
Patty, Tucson, AZ, 10/20/2004
What you are
proposing will work. Just make sure that the ozonator is properly sized for
your pool. The combination of an
ozone generator and a
mineral sanitizer will work well, even
at higher temperatures, as this combination is popular in spas. For the sake of
bather comfort and water quality, the overall pool water chemistry must be
maintained in the typical manner. This combination should not require
filtration practices that are different from typical pools of the same size and
configuration.
By add
The Circulator,
you will dramatically improve circulation and eliminate dead zones. This
makes it possible to send ozone to the four corners of the pool, achieving
optimum performance. Another means
of minimizing chemical usage is with
ultraviolet sanitizing. Adding a UV
sanitizer will allow you to use as much as 70% less chlorine or bromine, killing
virtually all of the microorganisms, as the water flows through the unit.
I would still advise the use of a low level of chlorine, as it confirm that
proper conditions exist. All it should take is a 0.5-1.5 PPM level.
There is be little sensation of chlorine and the amount used, to maintain this
level, will be much less. You may not eliminate chlorine, but you will
come close. I hope that
this information will prove to be helpful. Please tell your friends and dealers
about the website.
Sincerely. Alan
Schuster, 10/20/2004
► Ozone And Bromine In
A Pool?
Hi, I have a 32,000 gallon pool and I have an
OZONATOR and I use Bromine. I have two questions. First the water seems to have
a sweet smell, is this due to the ozone? I have never noticed it in past
years. If it is from the ozone does it mean the ozone level is too high?
My second question is everyone says an ozonator can save on sanitizer. How do I
know what level of Bromine to maintain and what are the signs the Bromine level
is too low? Thank You.
D. D., 6/14/2004
A poet once described ozone as
smelling like ocean waves crashing on the rocks. It is possible that you
are detecting some ozone, at times when it might be high. Without an
ozone generator you would need to maintain 3-5 PPM of bromine. With the ozonator,
you should be able to manage with 1-3 PPM and it will require less bromine to
maintain. Even if you maintained the same 3-5 PPM level, it would still
take less bromine, because of the ozonator.
Bromine levels can be measured
by a
simple test.
Any sign of a loss of water quality can signal inadequate ozonation or bromine
levels. Cloudy water or algae are the most obvious signs of the need to
improve sanitizing. I hope that I have been helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
6/14/2004
► Bromine Usage
and Ozone?
I have a 25K gallon in ground pool that uses
bromine for sanitation. We have had the pool for 9 years and it is 15 years
old currently. It has been relatively easy to maintain. My question is
that with bromine, we have to shock the pool almost every other day in the peak
of summer when it is used a lot and the water temp is up around 80. I am
assuming that this is because bromine is un-stabilized and degrades quickly from
the Sun. So the real question is what type of auto generating systems can
we add to this pool to ease the high volume of shocking? Looking at
Ozonators, Salt Generators, etc, but find very little info when it comes to
supporting a bromine system. Thanks for your help.
Scott R., 4/2/2008
This is a good question
and you are wise to ask it. Even if you stop using bromine, bromide ions will
remain. Adding chlorine will convert the bromides to bromine and the process
keeps recycling. If you add a salt chlorine generator, it will have to be set
at a higher than normal setting and this will shorten the life of the cell and
create more of a pH rise. Many salt chlorine generator manufacturers do not
recommend having bromides present. An
ozone generator
is not a stand alone sanitizing system. It needs back up. It provides
oxidation without the addition of chemicals that lead to chemistry changes or
buildup. If you use an ozone generator, it will carry the burden of the
oxidations or wastes and organic byproducts. That leaves the bromine for
sanitizing and backup. Under these circumstances, you will need far less
bromine and should be able to set the goal at a lower 1-2 PPM level. Because
bromides are present, you can use the less expensive chlorine to maintain the
low bromine level, as it will be converted. Adding a
Frog mineral sanitizer,
which can be used with bromine and ozone, will provide persistent backup and
help minimize bromine/chlorine use. I hope that this information will prove to
be helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 4/3/2008
► Ozone And Chlorine
In A Pool?
My pool is currently being
maintained, by myself, with chlorine tablets in a feeder. I have gotten
good results so far, but the dealer recently told me that I will have to replace
half of the pool water, the next few months, because the stabilizer level is
getting too high. Is that necessary? If I were to add an ozonator to
the pool, would that be helpful? Thanks for the input.
Jeff D., Sunrise, FL, 1/4/2005
It is good
practice to replace some of the pool water, when the cyanuric acid level rises
above 150 PPM, as high levels will decrease the efficiency of the chlorine.
In short, you'll be forced to maintain a higher, than normal, level of
free
chlorine.
Adding an
ozonator would be very helpful!
The ozonator would provide much of the
needed oxidizing function that is necessary to destroy wastes, dead algae and
debris. This means that you'll need to add less chlorine to maintain a
satisfactory free chlorine level.
Adding less chlorine will not only save money, but it will slow up the increases
in cyanuric acid levels that are due to the addition of the chlorine. In
addition, I would expect that you'll have fewer algae problems, because it is
less likely that the free chlorine levels will deplete quickly. I hope
that the information will be of help.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 1/4/2005
►
Ozone
And UV Sanitizing Together?
Is there any
systems in which you can use an ozonator and UV? So no need for Chlorine or
Bromine. Also what are your feelings on Steel vs. Concrete pools under the
vinyl? Thanks.
John S.,
4/27/2008
The easy one first. I would choose concrete:
it stronger, doesn't rust and the walls will not bow or flex.
You can add
UV
Sanitizing and an
Ozone Generator,
but as two separate units. It will virtually assure you that the return
flow will be devoid of living algae and bacteria. However, the pool walls
and water can still support algae and bacteria. Keeping a low level of
chlorine, about 1 PPM, will prevent growth in the pool and on the walls.
The ozonator will carry the burden of oxidizing wastes and very little chlorine
will actually be required. The odorous form of chlorine will be destroyed,
as the water returns to the pool. There should be little or no sensation
of chlorine. The fact that you will be able to maintain this low level of
free chlorine, with only minimal amounts of chemicals, will act as conformation
that proper conditions exist and that everything is functioning properly.
For more about UV sanitizing go to:
www.deltauv.com For more about
ozone generators go to:
www.waterquality.net If you add
the relatively inexpensive
Circulators,
to your returns, that will eliminate any dead zones that could promote algal and
bacterial growth. I hope that you will find this information helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
4/27/2008
► Ozone And A Salt
Chlorinator?
I live in Venezuela and we
live in the mountains where is cool and we have a pool of about 41,000 gallons
that is currently heated to about 90 degrees and this is forcing us to increase
our chemical usage. The kids eyes are being affected. I would like to move
towards using less chemicals and would like to get a ozone generator and/or
combination of a salt chlorinator. Could you recommend something?
Luis R., Venezuela,
2/13/2007
The combination of a
salt
chlorine generator
and an
ozone generator should be a great improvement. While a combination unit does
exist, I would not recommend it. Your pool is quite large and the temperature
will be on the high end. You should have full sized or even oversized
units. For a salt chlorine generator that will do the job properly, I
suggest
AutoPilot.
The ozonator will provide backup oxidation and help minimize the amount of
chlorine required. This will create more pleasant conditions and help the
extend the life of the salt cell. I hope that this information proves
helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 2/13/2007
►
How Long Do Ozonators Last?
I have an ozonator on my
pool and use trichlor, as well. It has made a major improvement and has
decreased the chlorine needed to maintain a satisfactory. I know
eventually I will have to replace a part, but how will I know? Thanks
Eric B.,
San Diego, VA 1/4/2010
The ozone generator will
require a replacement part of bulb, depending upon the type of unit. You
should get 2-3 years, before needing a replacement part. There are
ozone test kits
or
ORP testers,
that you can use, right at the return, to confirm the presence of ozone.
If you ever notice a decrease in water quality, while maintaining proper
chlorine readings, or if the amount of chlorine needed to maintain a
satisfactory has become much higher, it suggests a replacement item is needed.
I am glad to see that you appreciate the benefits of using ozone and chlorine
together. Using less trichlor slows up the rise in the cyanuric acid
concentration and makes the pH more stable, for longer periods of time.
I hope that this information id helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 1/5/2010
► Hydrogen Peroxide As
A Backup?
I read some of the information
on your website regarding using ozone in a pool with a sanitizer like chlorine,
bromine, ionizers, or mineral sanitizers, but I was wondering couldn't you also
use hydrogen peroxide as a residual sanitizer? Any additional information
you could provide on this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Vince, 6/11/2004
Hydrogen peroxide
is not used as a pool water sanitizer. It is used only as an oxidizer,
primarily with biguanide maintained pools. Biguanide acts as a sanitizer
and hydrogen peroxide acts as an oxidizer and not as a sanitizer. With an
ozonator, you don't need an additional oxidizer, as ozone amply fills that need.
What you do need is a permanent backup sanitizer and, in this role, chlorine,
bromine,
mineral sanitizers or ionizers can be used. This
way, if ozone is not being produced, for a short period of time, there will
still be some sanitizer present. I hope that this information proves
helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 6/11/2004
►
Pool Water Sanitizing
Duo?
I will be installing an
ozonator and a mineral sanitizer in my heated inground pool. My wife is
sensitive to chlorine and we want to completely avoid all such use. Do you
think that this combination will work? Is there equipment that I can
install that will automatically adjust the water? I am interested in
reducing the maintenance and time requirements, as much as possible. Thank
you. Terrific website!
Joel, 3/18/2006
The
combination of an
ozonator and
mineral sanitizer should satisfy most
of the sanitizing
requirements of your pool. You should still keep a low level of
chlorine and, because of the ozonator, much less chlorine will be required. There are pool automation controllers that can be used to
operate just about everything that is electrical and then some:
filtration, temperature, water level, water chemistry, pool cleaning and
more. They can definitely save time. I hope that I have been
helpful. Enjoy the pool.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 3/18/2006
►
Protecting The Vinyl Liner?
I have been investigating ozone systems and it I
have read that ozone bubbles that get in the pool may cause vinyl liner color
fading If the water flow at the return nozzles are directed straight out into
the pool, do you think there will still be a problem with liner fading in your
experience? I have been talking to a leading manufacturer about this, but I
don't think they want to commit to whether or not I will have a problem.
Leon H., 10/22/2008
Not
wanting to answer the question would hardly instill confidence in me.
WHAT FADES VINYL LINERS IS DIRECT CONTACT OF CHLORINE PRODUCTS OR VERY HIGH
LEVELS, OVER A LONG PERIOD OF TIME. Ozone does not remain in the water
for very long. In truth, most of the ozonation benefit happens in the return
pipes of shortly thereafter. That is why it is suggested that chlorine or
bromine be used in conjunction with ozone, in order to provide persistent
sanitation and oxidation. It will help you get by with less chlorine or
bromine, to maintain any given level and that will help preserve the liner's
appearance. Check out
UltraPure Ozone Generators
or go to
www.waterquality.net,
as I am sure that you will find them helpful. Adding
The Circulators
will help to better distribute the ozone, by boosting circulation and improving
distribution. I hope that this information will prove helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 10/22/2008
|
Proper water chemistry will help to better control and avoid algae problems
and maintain more optimum swimming conditions.
More information about Pool/Spa Water Testing Products can be found in the
Test Equipment Store. |
(Click on any image for ordering and information.)
▲
Return To Top Of Page
▲
Thank you for visiting
AskAlanAQuestion.Com. If you found the website helpful, please
tell your
friends and dealers. If not, please tell us. Your suggestions are
appreciated.
Aqualab Systems.,
Inc. does not make any warranty or representation, either expressed or implied, regarding
the accuracy or completeness of the information provided by this website; nor does Aqualab
Systems., Inc. assume any liability of any kind whatsoever related to, or resulting from,
any use or reliance on this information. The content of this website
should not be used, if it is conflict with any applicable federal, state or
local regulations or guidelines.
©,
2002-10,
A.S., Inc. All rights reserved.
|
|
|
