salt chlorine generators, salt water chlorinators, salt chlorinators and salt chlorinating systems for swimming pools

Dear Alan: We are considering a salt water chlorinator. Could you answer a few questions. Is this a reliable pool water sanitizing method? Is it easy to use? Will it save money? Do you favor a particular brand? Are there any negatives? Thank you for the help.

A saltwater chlorinator is as a reliable a sanitizing method as any other form of chlorine. The big difference is that it avoids or reduces a lot of the chemicals and makes the overall pool water chemistry easier to maintain. You'll find that there is less handling and storing of chemicals. So far as the economics are concerned, I really don't have all the information necessary to make that determination. However, I would suspect that it will be quite favorable over time. But the convenience factor is significant and almost without comparison. A salt water chlorinator is one of those products that can be controlled by a pool automation system: another convenience plus! My long-term, personal experience with the product was very satisfactory and I know that the product category has been improved considerably over the years. The quality units incorporate some of the best technology and have cells that should provide extended service. I hope that I have been helpful.

► Safety Concerns?

We are planning to put in a pool and are thinking of using a Salt Water Chlorinator. Can you tell me what you know about the differences between the salt system versus chlorine? Is one safer than the other for small children? You know how they sometimes swallow water, get it in their eyes and have sensitive skin. Thanks.

With a salt chlorine generator, there are no chlorine products to store or handle an

d no chlorine products to leave exposed to children. In either case, the pools will be maintained on chlorine. With a salt chlorinator, the chlorine level is controlled by a setting on a dial, avoiding uncomfortably high levels that might exist, when chlorine products are manually added. Chloramines are an irritating and odorous form of combined chlorine and are a problem in most chlorine pools. However, with a salt chlorinator, all of the chloramines are destroyed, as the water passes through the cell. Your overall pool maintenance will be simplified and fewer chemicals will be required. Everything about this type of product is kid friendly. You can pretty much say goodbye to "red eyes." For more information on the AutoPilot line of salt chlorine generators go to: www.autopilot.com I hope that I have been of assistance.

My brother has a saltwater chlorinator on his inground pool. Can this type of equipment be used in an above ground pool? Pool size is about 10,000 gallons. Any idea about cost? Can I use a timer? Thanks.

Saltwater chlorinators can be used with all types of pools. Smaller units or units especia

lly designed for above ground pools are available. Two ChlorEase above ground models are available. Units intended for above ground use are generally smaller and less expense, than those intended for the larger inground pools. It is not recommended that you use it with the same timer as the pool pump. The timer may not be able to handle the current load of both the ChlorEase unit and the pump. If you want, you can use a separate timer for the ChlorEase unit and run it for an amount of time suitable for the chlorine requirements of your pool. Every pool will be different depending on size, time of year, type of usage, exposure and other factors. For more information on an above ground saltwater chlorinator, go to: www.smartpool.com I hope that this information will prove helpful.

I am concerned about using a salt water pool and an anti-microbial cartridge filter that contains silver. I am sacred that the addition chlorine and the electrolysis will cause the silver to leach out of the filters and precipitate. Or it could possibly form suspended particle and make the water very cloudy. Is the any information available that would alleviate my concerns?

I don't think electrolysis is an issue. Salt chlorine generators are routinely used with mineral sanitizers that contain silver. The release of the silver is very low and staining and precipitation are not expected. King Technology offers a hybrid salt chlorine generator/mineral sanitizer unit that combines the properties of both technologies. For more information go to: www.kingtechnology.com I hope that this information is helpful.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 9/7/2009

I recently bought a Tracer PockeTester, from your website. I am quite satisfied, with the convenience and reliability of the tester, which I use to monitor the salt levels in the pools, on my service route, that have a salt chlorinator. While I like the convenience of a salt chlorine generator, I never got around to putting one on my pool, in the 3 years since it was built. I use a combination of a trichlor feeder and lithium shock. For no other reason, other than curiosity, I tested the tap water and found a salt level or 600 PPM. That is not uncommon or unexpected in this area. I then tested the pool water and found a salt level of 2000 PPM. That came as a major surprise, since I have never adding any salt. Is there an explanation?

Evaporation!!!! Finding high levels of salt or TDS is nothing new and affects most pools, that are a few years old. Assuming that you have a typical inground pool, you can lose 2-inches of water a week. Possibly more, in the summer, in a hot dry location. That 2-inch loss represents 2-3% of the water volume, depending on the presence and size of the hopper area. Even allowing for rainfall to replenish 1/2 of the lose, you are still adding about 10 PPM of salt, every time, you top off the pool, with the water containing 600 PPM of salt. 10 PPM a week, for 3 years, and you can easily reach 2,000 PPM of salt: almost as much as some pools with salt chlorine generators. Even pools without a salt chlorine generators present, can have significant levels of salt and TDS. Relentlessly, evaporation causes salt and TDS level to rise. Pump outs, splash outs and backwashing will slow the rate of increase, However, no matter what the salt level will rise substantially, over time, when you are dealing with water than contains 600 PPM of salt. If you were to use liquid chlorine the rate of salt increase would be even higher. Measure your own average weekly evaporational water loss and calculate the % lost. Multiply this by the PPM of salt content of the new water and you have the weekly rise in salt. You don't have to have a salt chlorine generator to end up with salt in the pool. The levels are not enough to taste, so it goes by unnoticed, so long as the overall water chemistry is good. If the pool did have the salt chlorine generator, with water containing the appropriate amount of salt, the levels would rise even more. When the salt level gets too high, water should be replaced. Thank you for writing an for encouraging me to put it to the numbers test.

► Concern About High TDS?

I apologize for forgetting to ask you this in the first email, but I do have one more question for you regarding saltwater chlorinators. It has to do with TDS (Total Dissolved Solids). The N.S.P.I standards for TDS are ideal: 1000-2000 ppm, and maximum: 3000 ppm. Since, for a saltwater chlorinator, you need at least 2500 ppm of salt alone, how does that square with the N.S.P.I standards? What kind of problems can occur if your TDS are too high? Thanks.

Richard, 4/7/2004

Good question. The TDS standard does seem at odds with the requirements of a salt chlorinator. The standard is a guide and is based on the TDS being composed of various calcium and sodium carbonates, bicarbonates, chlorides, sulfates, cyanurates and other minerals. Some of these salts have limited solubility, especially at higher pH and TA. In order to avoid cloudy water and scaling, the TDS is recommended to be capped at 3000 PPM. TDS readings are usually expressed as PPM of sodium chloride, even though the dissolved salts are not sodium chloride exclusively. Being that sodium chloride is quite soluble, the addition of 2500 PPM or more should not present a problem, even in areas with relatively high TDS. It certainly presents less of a problem than the addition of various chlorine compounds over time. High TDS can be a problem, when a major portion is due to calcium as opposed to sodium salts. Saltwater chlorinators are very popular in high TDS areas such as Arizona. I would not expect any problems, except with some extraordinary poor quality water. I hope that I have cleared things up.

► Starting Up: Stabilizer & Chlorine?

I just ordered a waterproof Tracer PockeTester, Salt, TDS & pH, from your website, and am filling and starting up my new saltwater spa for the first time. In the directions for the chlorine generator, it says I need to not only add sufficient salt, but also stabilizer and chlorine. Is this really necessary? I hope to get the tester soon. Thanks. Have a good Thanksgiving.

Zack L., 1122/2007

The directions make complete sense. The addition of the chlorine stabilizer will help the chlorine last longer, by protecting it from the Sun's UV rays. You're starting off without any chlorine. Adding some will help prevent algae growth and make it easier for your salt chlorine generator to maintain the right level. A level of 1-3 PPM, of free chlorine, would be ideal. In short, it avoids having to play catch up. Enjoy the holiday and the pool. Thank you for the order.

You might be able to get away without adding stabilizer. In the summer, your salt chlorine might be hard pressed to supply the pool's chlorine needs. However, there is a price to not adding stabilizer. Because you are producing more chlorine, the salt cell will not last as long. The more chlorine you produce, the more the pH will require downward adjustment with acid. Most issues, with cyanuric acid, involve the high levels, that result from regular use of stabilizer chlorine. It can reach 200 PPM and higher, if not monitored. In your case, you merely need to do a one time addition of 40 PPM. If you have a heater, the green hair is more likely due to copper, from the use of copper algaecides or from corrosion of the copper heater core, if present. Add some metal treatment and see if that helps eliminate the problem. The stabilizer choice is yours. There is another choice here: add an ozone generator. Because it also provides oxidation, it will allow you to set the salt chlorine generator, at a lower setting, extending the life of the salt cell and making pH control easier. It is an ideal combination, especially when both units are full sized for the pool. I hope that this information proves helpful.

Hi Alan. Your site has been MORE THAN HELPFUL to me in the past few weeks! THANKS YOU SO MUCH for all of your helpful advice. We are having a salt chlorinator system installed on our 25,000 gallon pool in two days and I am so excited! I have learned so much from your site, that I feel confident in maintaining the salt system with virtually little effort. My concern is in the establishment of the system. The pool professional we chose does not know a lot about salt systems, but he says he is learning. My biggest question is in initial startup - how much salt to add and what else needs to be done for the initial startup? Once again, THANK YOU for hosting your site and answering all these questions. I will recommend you to all my friends with pools. Sincerely.

Thank you for the kind comments about the website. I can't provide an exact figure on the salt requirement, as it does vary according to the salt chlorine generator manufacturer. You should check the instruction manual to be sure. It will require something in the neighborhood of 25 pounds per 1,000 gallons of water. Use non-ionized food grade or water softener grades of salt. Do not use rock salt or industrial grades! It is important to have it within a certain range, so make sure that you use the correct dosage and pool volume. Test the level to be sure. Thereafter, you need to add more salt to replace that lost through pump outs, splash outs and backwashing. Chlorine stabilizer levels of 40-80 PPM are acceptable. The only other thing that I suggest is the addition of a dose of a metal treatment. This can help avoid discoloration, if metal are present and, at the very least, will help keep the cell clean. Keep tabs on the pH, as it can tend to rise. This is basically a chlorine pool without chlorine to handle or store. Good luck and I'm sure that you'll enjoy the product and appreciate the difference it will make. Enjoy the season.

We have a 16 x 32 inground pool with a "SALT" system. We have had to add salt in November and December and on both occasions once the salt was dispensed it has left a discolored stain in the area where the salt was poured. The color is not black but a light brown. The company where we purchased the pool has been of minimal help. If you have the slightest bit of information please let us know as this pool is only 5 months old and I am trying to save the liner. Thanks.

The staining that you are describing is not something normal or inevitable. There are several possibilities: the salt was of industrial quality and contained trace metals such as iron, the pool water contained low levels of iron and, perhaps, the addition of the salt and the resultant high TDS caused the iron to precipitate or the salt was not distributed around the pool and/or was allowed to remain in prolonged contact, without the benefit of being stirred. This type of staining could have been caused by the prussiate of soda in the salt. This is an anti caking agent, present in some grades of rock salt. In either case, I would try adding a dose of a metal treatment to the pool and try to remove the stains (most likely iron) by applying acid. To do this take a white sock with 1/2 pound of pH decreaser powder and drop it onto the stained area. Leave it in place for a few minutes and slowly move around with the vacuum pool. Hopefully the acid will dissolve the stains. You can also try a similar technique using oxalic acid. Periodic addition of a dose of mineral treatment will help prevent staining and, in addition, help keep the salt chlorinator plates free of scale deposits. I hope that this information will prove helpful. Best wishes for the new year!

Editors Note: not all grades of salt contain prussiate of soda (iron containing anti-caking compound). It may be present in rock salt. While staining or discoloration problems aren't inevitable, avoiding salt containing the additive will help reduce the possibility. In any event, always spread the salt around the pool perimeter, keep the filter running, engage the main drain, use the pool vacuum to promote better bottom circulation and use the pool brush to stir things up. If a dose of a quality metal treatment is added a few hours prior to the salt addition, the likelihood of the problem should be lessened and will afford the additional benefit of helping to keep the plates scale-free.

We have a mineral/salt unit using salt. The mineral reading was 2400 and then the next day the mineral reading fell to 0. We took the unit off and cleaned it in a diluted muriatic acid bath. Then we reinstalled the cell but it is still 0. Any ideas?

This mineral reading is just the PPM of salt. It cannot go from 2400 PPM to 0 PPM overnight. Cleaning the cell plays no role in being able to test the salt level. Something is wrong with whatever you are using to test for salt. I suggest that you replace the tester, as it is not functioning properly. There are many, convenient ways to test for salt. The salt chlorine generator works best when a proper salt level is maintained. Always use a non-iodized food or water softener grade of salt. Never use rock salt or salt containing yellow prussiate. I hope that I have been of assistance.

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I have a salt system and I am adding 50 lbs of salt a week to maintain a 3200-3500 level. I have done a bucket test and no leak is detected, plus my water bills are low. My pool is an 8500 gallon pool. What may be the problem? Thank you.

If the facts in your letter are correct, there are only two possibilities. #1. The method used to measure the salt level is incorrect and/or unreliable. #2. You have a leak and are losing something on the order of 1500-2000 gallons of water weekly. There are no other possibilities that will account for the need to replenish the salt weekly. The salt recycles itself and the only way to lose salt is by pump out, backwashing or overflow. You should only be requiring about 50 pounds a year, more or less, depending upon your pool equipment and circumstances. Perhaps, heavy rainfall is disguising the leak, but it is there! You need to locate the leak or account for the salt loss. It could be in a pipe, seam, drain, return fitting, skimmer, cutout, etc. You might want to give FIX A LEAK a try. If it works, it will save you a lot of time and expense. Visit them at www.fixaleak.com Otherwise, you might consider calling in a leak detection professional. For more information and for a directory of local pool leak experts, go to: www.poolleak.info I hope that this information will you understand the problem and help you solve the riddle.

I live in the Houston, Texas area with a 20,000 gallon in ground pool. We are considering changing to salt chlorination, but have frequent heavy rainfalls that require dumping several inches of water out of the pool into the storm drain system to restore the pool level. We can get 4-6 inches of rain in an hour once or twice a year, and get 3 inches or more an hour once a month. Would having to drain this much water out of the pool this frequently make it difficult to maintain the salt level required for salt chlorination? How does one test the salt concentration after a heavy rainfall and draining? Thanks!

You will have to make allowances, if you pump water to waste, as that will lower the salt concentration. Each manufacturer has a given range for optimum performance. Some units have low salt indicators. Testing salt is easy with a PockeTester Salt Tester. Just dip it in the water. Salt chlorine generators are a big step forward from ordinary chlorine. I hope this information proves helpful.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 5/23/2007

We are in the process of considering an in ground pool. Our sales person has told us about the salt water generators. At this point I do not know what kind or brand they recommend. Some of the answers you have given says not to use rock salt and that is what she said was used. I sure don't want to start out using the wrong kind. Does she not know what she is talking about? When you refer to food grade are you referring to table salt? And am I reading you correctly that it is 20-25 lbs of salt to 1,000 gallons of water? Our pool will be 16 by 30. That sounds like a lot of salt to me. Is there an therapeutic sides to using the salt water system? We're excited about getting started but want to cover all our basis before we make a decision. Thanks for your help.

My recommendation not to use "rock salt" is based on the fact that this material can contain yellow prussiate of soda, which is added as an anti-caking agent. You're right it does take a lot of salt, but not enough to taste. Ocean water is about 17 times saltier. Given the large quantity, you do not want to add salt with yellow prussiate of soda because that can cause iron staining to occur. To make sure that staining does not occur, it is suggested that non-iodized food grade or a water softener grade be used. The small additional cost can save you lots of problems, with your salt chlorine generator. You were wise to check into this matter and try to get off on the right foot. Good luck with the pool. I hope that I have helped in the decision making.

I been reading up on salt chlorinators and have purchased a mineral/salt unit. They suggest using their proprietary product as the salt. This is very expensive at approximately $30 for a 30 lb bag. They suggest one bag for every 1000 gallons. Do you know anything about this system and do you know if I can use other salt instead? Thanks.

All salt chlorine generators work on the principle of electrolytically breaking down salt (sodium chloride) into chlorine and other byproducts. All salt chlorine generators are not the same, but so far as I know all, without exception, require that a salt concentration within certain ranges be maintained. Again, so far as I know, all salt chlorine generators can utilize either non-iodized food grade salt or water softener grade salt. Salt containing yellow prussiate of soda or rock salt should not be used, because of the presence of undesirable materials. The modest price of non-iodized food grade or water softener grades of salt is one of the factors that make ownership of a salt chlorine generator attractive and economical. While different water supplies might require additional additives, this is best addressed based on a water analysis and the pool's actual needs. I hope that I have been helpful.

I have soft touch, AutoPilot salt system and I have a reading of 4800 ppm. I would like to know what a need to lower the salt to 3000 ppm? My pool is 11,144 Gallons. Your help is greatly appreciated. Regards.

AutoPilot Systems do not require a high salt cutoff or warning and can operate satisfactorily at levels up to 35,000 ppm! AutoPilot cells, unlike the others, are not affected by high salt levels. Systems that have a high salt protection cannot handle the high salt and are probably the units that will damage the cell, under these conditions. The reason for protection is that the transformer runs hot with higher salt (greater conductivity) levels. Unless you are sure that you added too much salt, I suggest that you verify that the salt level is where you think it is. Your concern about excessively high salt levels greater than 6,000 PPM, should be directed towards metallic fixtures such as handrails, ladders, light rings, or heat exchangers. Higher salt levels will approach the taste threshold of about 3,500 PPM. To lower the level to 3,000 PPM, you need to pump out about 3,200 gallons of water or drop the level to about 6,966 gallons, taking care not to pump out too much water at a time, as this might cause problems in high water table situations. To avoid the possibility of pools popping up or vinyl liners floating, it may be safest to pump out the water in smaller increments. In either case, replace the pumped out water with fresh water. However, if the taste is not objectionable, the salt level can be left at its current level. It should dissipate, as time goes by, without any damage to equipment. I hope that I have been helpful.

Editors Note: some input from AutoPilot Systems was included, in order to provide a more comprehensive answer.

► Taste And Feel?

I have looked through your site, but couldn't find an answer to the question of what to expect with a salt chlorinator regarding water taste and feel. Will the water be salty at all? Thanks.

Russell F., 4/4/2006

It is there, but not easy to find. You will not be able to test the salt. It will only be about 1/15th that of ocean water. Most people agree that the feel of the water is better and more to their liking. If you don't tell them - they won't know why the water looks, feels and smells better!!! I hope that this is what you were looking to hear.

I have a salt water pool. I read somewhere suggesting that I could use "regular mill salt" in substitute of a weekly renewal salt product. What is "Regular Mill Salt"? Is this the same as Water Softener Salt pellets? If not, where can I buy this "Regular Mill Salt"? Thanks.

I am not familiar with the term "regular mill salt." However, so far as I know you can use non-ionized food grade or water softener grades of salt with all salt chlorine generators. Just do not use rock salt or salt with yellow prussiate of soda. The salt concentration should be maintained within the recommended limits, by the addition of salt, on as needed basis and as determined by the result of a salt test. Salt can only be lost through overflows, splash outs and pump outs. It does not get lost through evaporation and it is recycled after being converted into chlorine. Weekly additions of salt, especially without testing, can lead to having too high a concentration and that can damage the salt cell. I suggest that you test the level at the start of the season and occasionally, thereafter, and add salt to adjust the level to within the recommended range. I hope that I have been helpful.

Is there a special grade of salt for use with a salt chlorine generator? I know that I will have to add quite a bit and am wondering if it can be added all at once? Thanks for the information.

It is best to use a non-iodized food grade or water softener grade of salt. Avoid using "rock salt" or technical grades, as these may contain unwanted minerals or additives, such as yellow prussiate of soda (anti-caking agent). While you can add the salt all at once, you should disperse it around the pool perimeter. Keep the filter operating, until it is all dissolved. If there is a main drain, split the water intake with the skimmers. If there is no main drain, use the pool vacuum, as a temporary main drain. Use the pool brush, periodically, to stir up the bottom. Try and avoid allowing the salt sit in one small area. After everything is dissolved, adjust the overall water chemistry. Periodically, test the salt level, as replacement amounts might be necessary to make up for losses due to backwashing, pump outs and splash outs. I hope that the information proves helpful. Enjoy the season.

We have an AutoPilot salt chlorination system. We have recently opened the pool for the summer and the local temperatures have been between 40°F at night and 80°F in the day. The pool water temperature is staying between 58°F and 67°F. The water looks fine, but when tested, no chlorine is registering on the test strips. The chlorinator reading on the Pool Pilot reads at times from 30% to 74%. Do we need to do anything to the pool to insure we have adequate chlorine in the water. How does water temperature affect the production of chlorine in a saltwater system?

H.B., 4/18/2007

The AutoPilot as an Automatic Temperature Compensation feature that will regulate the output setting of the Digital based upon water temperature changes. When water temperatures decrease, the output % will decrease, to the point that at 55°F or colder, it will show 1% and will not allow you to raise it any higher, in order to protect the cell. As temperatures warm up, the output % will then increase to maintain the chlorine demand of a warmer pool. The chlorine lasts longer with cooler weather, therefore the automatic temperature compensator adjustment is down. Most other systems rely on the homeowner to adjust the output as the temperature fluctuates and tends to over-chlorinate when it gets cold. This is actually good for those systems, as it will also shut down when it falls below 60°F. You have to be careful that the chlorine level is not too excessive as it will cause damage to equipment. If you add some chlorine or shock manually, in order to control algae, try and keep the level no higher that 1-3 PPM, until the water starts to warm up. I hope that I have been helpful and enjoy the season.

I'm having an in-ground pool built in Cyprus. It measures 8 x 4 x 1.5 metres, approx 11000 gallons. Somebody has suggested a salt water chlorinator and is pushing to sell one that requires 7000 PPM of salt and is not self-cleaning. However, the water is very hard and someone else has suggested an in line brominator. Which system would be best. The house in Cyprus is a vacation home and I won't be there all the time, as I reside in the UK. There are pool maintenance firms who manually maintain pools. I would appreciate your advice. Kind regards.

A salt chlorine generator that requires 4000 - 7000 ppm of salt and is not self cleaning, is at a distinct disadvantage in very hard water situations. Salt chlorine generator systems are available that typically require 2500 - 3500 ppm of salt, are self cleaning and use less power. Disadvantages of the high salt levels include being closer to the taste threshold, higher replenishment costs and higher potential for corrosion. Non self-cleaning cells will require periodic manual removal of the cell, for cleaning purposes, and are less suited for pool automation. An in line brominator will introduce byproducts, that will build up over time, and must be considered a potential problem in very hard water situations. Bromine is more costly to start with and cannot be protected from degradation by the Sun's UV rays. My choice would be a salt chlorine generator. I hope that I have helpful with the decision making.

We recently purchased an above ground pool late last summer and are thinking of switching over to a salt generator before this summer season. We asked our pool dealer where we bought the pool and they said that salt generators will bleach the liners and rust the metal. They also stated that in the hot summer months (we live in TX), that the salt generators will not be able to produce chlorine fast enough to keep up with the algae production. Is this true?

Salt chlorine generators are far less likely to bleach a liner, than are chlorine-based chemicals, because the chlorine is produced at a lower, steady and more consistent rate. In addition, there is no longer direct contact between the liner and a slow dissolving chlorine. The salt is in the water and contained within the liner. The only metal subject to corrosion will occur, if two dissimilar metals are in immediate proximity to one another. If the salt chlorine generator is properly sized, it should meet the needs of the pool. During periods of high temps and heavy bather use, it may be necessary to add a quick-dissolving chlorine to supplement the production. Under these same conditions, it can be a real challenge to keep a steady, comfortable level with conventional chlorine. Salt chlorine generators are commonly used with above ground pool. Using a FROG Mineral Sanitizer, in addition to a salt chlorine generator, will provide persistent sanitation, allowing the need to less chlorine to be produced and making the control of the pH easier. The ChlorEase unit is especially designed for above ground pools up to 18,000 gallons. I hope that I have been helpful.

I installed the ChlorEase yesterday in a 13x25 x48", above ground pool. What a snap! How does the generator "know" how much water to supply chlorine to? In other words, if a 10,000 gal and 20,000 gal pool both have the same amount of NaCl in ppm, why doesn't the 10,000 gal pool end up with twice as much chlorine in the water? Do you recommend any type of test strips or kits in a NaCl pool? Thanks.

It doesn't! That's what water testing is for. There is no way to avoid it. How much chlorine a pool requires is not just based on pool size, but on weather conditions and bather usage. As the season changes, so will the chlorine requirements, but a salt chlorine generator makes it so much easier. Two bathers in a pool, require just about as much chlorine, for treatment of their wastes, in a 10,000 gallon pool, as in a 20,000 gallon pool. If the free chlorine level gets too high, you may have to unplug the ChlorEase unit or set it on a separate timer. Glad the installation went easily. I recommend The LaMotte Insta-Test strips, as they provide complete chlorine information, easily and reliably. The question was a good one, as I hope the season will be.

We have a large inground vinyl liner pool - about 44,000 gallons. When it was built we installed a salt chlorinator unit. We run the pump 24/7 and also have an inground cleaning system which we run daily. The water is great until it rains and our minerals get out of whack. However, we have been unhappy with the costs associated with adding special proprietary chemicals every time it rains due to a low mineral count. Could we just use salt like you have described for other units? Is it possible something is wrong with the cell in the unit?

Your system is a salt chlorine generator, similar in action to many others on the market, including the inground models on this website. One product is merely a propriety salt mixture. You can use non-iodized, food grade or water softener grade salt and maintain it at the PPM level required by your equipment. Salt is usually only added once or, as needed, to replace that lost by backwashing, pump outs and splash outs. The other product is a proprietary mixture that claims to be useful for many purposes. The bottom line is that if you operate the system properly and maintain a free chlorine level of 1-3 PPM, about all you should have to do is control the pH and TA. If your water is hard or contains metals, adding a calcium or metal treatment monthly, will help keep the cells and underwater water surfaces free of scale or stains. After periods of heavy rainfall, the chlorine level may bottom out. Adding a dose of shock and/or turning up the dial will restore the proper level, in most instances. If the unit is producing adequate chlorine, there would appear to be nothing wrong with it. I hope that this information proves helpful and a savings to you. Please tell your friends about the website.

A local company is trying to talk me into adding an ozonator to my pool, which already has a salt chlorinator. Is this overkill? Is there any sense to doing this? Thanks for any input that you can share.

Overkill? I used to think so, but now I don't this so. A salt chlorinator is a complete sanitizing system. By contrast, an ozonator needs a backup sanitizer, such as chlorine, bromine, an ionizer or a mineral sanitizer. Therefore, if you have an ozonator, adding a salt chlorinator can make a lot of sense. If you have a salt chlorinator, adding an ozonator will allow you to lower the settings and extend the life of the cell. This, in turn, will further reduce the overall chemical presence. Definitely a case of more being better. I hope that I have been helpful.

Would a Salt Water Generator be advisable for use in a fiberglass pool? Also, as we are gone for 5 months a year, what problems would this present with the maintenance of the system? Do all SW generators need to be acid washed? We plan to cover the (8.5x18x5ft deep) pool with a 4" thick spa cover, and to keep the pool at approx. 87-90 degrees. Would this effect the ability to use the SW generator effectively? Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge.

There's no reason that a saltwater chlorinator shouldn't be used with a fiberglass pool. Many salt chlorine generators have self cleaning cells, which I assume relates to the "acid washing" that you are referring to. You should be able to select a low setting and have it controlled by a timer. Once the organic matter in the pool is destroyed, very little chlorine will be required to maintain the pool. I suggest that you have someone periodically check the water level, chlorine and pH levels. Otherwise, salt chlorinator operation is highly automated. Have you given any thought to covering the pool with an automatic pool safety cover? It is much safer than what you are proposing, as this type of cover can support the weight of a person. It can be retracted at the press of a button, act as a solar cover, reduce evaporation, reduce chemical usage and help keep out debris. I hope that I have been helpful.

I have a in-ground vinyl pool with a salt chlorine generator I installed at the beginning of the summer. The water has been clear all season but I have now (after two weeks of not using the pool) noticed a yellowish staining in the steps and around the rim (bathtub ring and below the waterline). It does not scrub off so I do not think it is algae. I have kept the chlorine levels up so I would doubt algae could form. This must be some kind of scaling...How do you get rid of the stain? I bought some Scale Remover but after looking thru the salt generator owners manual, it made reference to a "saturation index" and mentioned that anything over .2 could cause stains. I did some calculations and determined my Saturation Index to be 0.270. What would try to adjust first? My Alkalinity is 119, my pH is 7.5, my Calcium is 250 and stabilizer is at 60. My first thought is to take the Alkalinity down a notch and use a metal remove to get the Calcium lower; both of these adjustments should take the Saturation Index down closer to 0.0 Any thoughts or advice? Thanks.

Scale consists of calcium carbonate deposits and should not be yellowish in color. Your water chemistry is only very slightly towards the scaling side, of the optimum range, and should not be causing the problem. Adding a metal treatment or calcium treatment will not lower the hardness: it will complex calcium and allow more to remain in solution without problems. Lowering the pH and/or the TA will lower the Saturation Index. This problem does not seem to have any direct link to the use of a salt chlorinator, as it is common in pools without salt chlorinators. The stains and discolorations could be the result of iron or other metals. That being the case, chlorine will not work. Shut off the filter, put 1/2 pound of pH reducer in a white sock and drop onto a stained area. Hopefully, as the acid dissolves the stains will be removed. Afterwards, use a scrub brush to help expose the surface and repeat as needed. If this works, but the area is too broad, lower the pH of the entire pool to about 6.0. Once the stains have been removed, add a double-triple dose of a quality metal treatment, prior to restoring the pH. Add at least 1 dose for each 0.5 PM of metals and allow 8 hours to work. In any event, add at least a double dose. Allow the water to recirculate for 6-8 hours after the metal treatment has been added and before the pH is raised. I suggest that you have the pool and tap water tested for iron, copper and manganese, as it may be necessary to treat the water monthly or whenever new water is added. If this does not work, try placing a few vitamin C tablets on the stain and let dissolve. If this works, lower the pH to 6.5 and add a chlorine neutralizer to discharge all chlorine present. Add a dose or either ascorbic or oxalic acids and allow to circulate overnight. Use the amount recommended on the package. Not all pool dealers carry these items. Do this only if the vitamin C tablets worked! Depending upon the nature of the problem, additional product may have to be added. Before raising the pH and chlorine level, add a double dose of metal treatment and wait 6-8 hours. As you raise the pH and chlorine, take notice of the water quality, as more metal treatment might be necessary. Good luck.

You were correct about metals in the pool: I just had the water tested again for copper & iron and they are reporting the copper level to be 0.17 ppm which looks to be off the chart high. I need to get my well water tested as it looks like I'm putting in more metal at each top-off. Thanks so much for your help on this.

I am looking into saltwater chlorination for above ground pools and would like to obtain more detailed information on the ChlorEase Chlorinator. This item seems to be a cost effective solution for an above ground pool. As a minimum, what water capacity can this item handle? The pool I am interested in is a 16’ x 33’ x 52” and is about 20,000 gal. How do you install this item? It does not appear to be inline with the filter pump. Does this item require additional accessories or is it stand alone? Regards.

The ChlorEase unit, depending upon the model, requires no installation, other than attaching under the top rail. This salt chlorine generator is designed for above ground pools, up to 18,000 gallons in water content. Your pool actually contains 17,150 gallons, according to my calculations. It does not require connection to a pump. It hangs below the top rail, allowing for water to flow through the cell. All you need to do is plug it into a 110 volt, GFI protected outlet. It will require that salt be added to the pool water. Other than that, it is maintained like any other chlorine pool. I hope that the information will prove helpful.

I am having a pool installed this fall and wanting to go with the salt chlorinating system. I talked to a pool guy that is giving me one bid for the upcoming pool and he said that the cell would go out faster than normal because I am on well water not city. Any comments. Thanks.

If your well is of potable water quality, it is doubtful that it can make any measurable difference in the life of the cell. In either case, chemicals will be added to the pool to adjust the water to the desired water chemistry. If your well water contains high level of calcium and/or heavy metals, it should be treated appropriately. The best way to treat a pool such as yours is with The METALTRAP filter. Simply attach the METALTRAP to the garden hose that you are using to fill the pool. It will remove iron, copper, manganese, other heavy metals and fine particulates. By removing the heavy metals, you virtually eliminate discoloration and staining issues. Use the METALTRAP on all new water added and you'll avoid adding metallic ions that might cause problems. Monthly doses of the Liquid METALTRAP product will pick up and lingering heavy metals and will help keep the salt-cell cleaner. Ask him why it makes a difference, as I am eager to hear this!

It is never a good idea to drain any kind of swimming pool onto landscaped area. However, sometimes there is no practical choice. Normally the only water drained is that from backwashing, pump out or winterizing and is done on an occasional basis. Salt chlorinators require a few 1000 PPM of salt and this, generally, is well tolerated by the landscaping, especially if the drainage is good. In areas, where drainage is very poor and/or rainfall totals are very low, some effort might be made to minimize and disperse the discharges. Potassium chloride has been used, in place of sodium chloride, out of consideration for this problem. Thirteen pounds of potassium chloride are required for every 10 pounds of sodium chloride. No one has ever written to me describing the effects of this concern and, therefore, I surmise that most people should not expect to have a problem, if some precautions are taken. I hope that I have been helpful.

Could you possibly explain how the compound sodium chloride is converted to a Chlorine. I am interested in seeing how and why it occurs molecularly. I am a pool repair person and have had the question raised, but have not been able to give a complete answer. My thanks in advance,

Sodium chloride or common table salt is converted electrolytically, with the use of a salt chlorinator system, into chlorine and sodium hydroxide. In order for the salt chlorine generator to function properly, there needs to be a salt concentration, in the pool water, of approximately 2500-4000 PPM, depending upon the brand and/or model. The simplified chemical reaction is as follows:

2 (sodium chloride) + 4 (water) = 2 (sodium hydroxide) + 2 (Hydrogen) + 2 (hypochlorous acid)

In a swimming pool the chlorine forms hypochlorous acid (HClO), the active germicidal form of chlorine. Electrical energy is required to initiate the oxidation-reduction reaction, necessary to covert salt into hypochlorous acid. The salt chlorine generator provides the means to make this conversion. I hope that the information will prove helpful.

I have a service route and come across quite a few salt chlorinator systems. My question is how important is it to maintain the proper level of salt? How is it tested? Thanks.

Very important! Low salt levels can result in low chlorine production. High salt levels can result in overproduction and shorten electrode life expectancy. Testing is simple, as the there are a variety of testers and test strips available. The newest and, perhaps, the simplest, is the LaMotte TRACER PockeTester. Designed for the pool professional, but inexpensive enough for the caring pool owner, the Tracer PockeTester measures Sodium Chloride with a range from 0 to 9,999 ppm; TDS with a range from 0 to 9,999 ppm; Temperature from 32 to 149 F. The tester’s probe is dipped into a sample of pool water and the results are ready in seconds. A microprocessor allows for easy push button switching between TDS and Salt. I hope that the website has been helpful.

► Mineral Sanitizer And Salt Chlorinator?

I have a new pool is slowly being filled with water right now. I have both systems the frog and salt. I am having trouble deciding which one to use. The pool company that put the pool in says the FROG system is better. My friends that have pools say to go with salt. I just want to know which one will be easier to use. And if I choose the salt will my water have a salt taste to it. Which one do you recommend, and which one helps to make pool maintenance easier. My pool is in Southern California. Thanks.

Michael M., Upland, CA, 1/5/2007

Your pool will not have a salty taste! Just the Frog Mineral Sanitizer will not be enough. You will still need to add chlorine to oxidize wastes. I would use the salt chlorine generator as the primary means of sanitizing and oxidizing. Use the FROG as a backup and it will allow you to favor the low end of the recommended 1-3 PPM free chlorine range. Because you will be producing less chlorine, the pH will be easier to control. The combination of the two will make for better water quality and less maintenance. I hope that I have been helpful. Enjoy the pool.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 1/6/2007

I am building a pool in Mexico and am convinced that a salt-water chlorinator is the way to go, perhaps combined with an ozonator. I have two questions: 1. Does salt-water chlorination process have any corrosive or other detrimental effects on equipment (such as the pool pumps) over time, and if so, is there anything that can be done to minimize these effects? 2. I've received various recommendations concerning the size of the filtering pump I should use, relative to the size of the pipes (i.e. use 1/2 HP for 1.25" or 1.5" pipes), but I'm wondering how this ties into the salt-water chlorination processing requirements. My pool will hold roughly 8,000 gallons and I want to run the pump as little as possible (for maximum energy conservation). If I use a larger pump to reduce the number of hours it runs each day, how will this impact how much chlorine is generated relative to the amount required? The bottom line is that I want to make sure I have the appropriate balance between pump power, pipe size and chlorine generation for optimum efficiency and lowest possible maintenance. Any advice you can offer would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again for providing such useful and accessible information.

C. B., Mexico, 2/18/2005

Salt chlorinating systems do not normally present a corrosive situation, unless two dissimilar metals are in immediate proximity to one another. Salt Chlorination has become so popular today, that is extremely unlikely that you will experience problems, using the products in current production. Too big a pump can reduce chlorine production. There doesn't seem a need for you to exceed 1 HP, with 1-1/2" pipe. Energy consumption comes down to watts times hours. You should plan on operating the filter for 6-12 hours a day, depending upon temperature, usage and other circumstances. Trying to lower the filtering time, to a conservation-minded, short cycle, will, also, shorten the time that chlorine and ozone are being produced, and that operational practice could lead to algae problems and poor sanitation. Remember, sanitizer is only produced when the pump is on! The combination of salt chlorine generation and ozonation should prove very effective. I hope that this information proves useful.

I have had a saltwater chlorinator for a bunch of years and of late I seem to need to add some chlorine. Could this be because the cell is worn out? Can it be regenerated or does it have to be replaced? Thanks for the help.

There are several possibilities. Check the salt level, it may be too low. Your cell may have to be cleaned with an acidic solution. This is especially true, if your saltwater chlorinator does not have a polarity reversing, self-cleaning feature. Otherwise it is possible that the cell needs to be replaced. Evidence of corrosion of the plates can be confirmation. Some retailers offer replacement cells for a wide variety of units. If, in addition to the salt chlorine generator, you utilize a Frog Mineral Sanitizer, you will be able to operate the salt chlorine generator at a lower setting and this will extend the life of the salt cell. In addition, it will provide some sanitizing backup to carry you through periods of heavy bather usage. I hope that I have been of some help.

Alan, I have a new gunite pool (approx. 9400 gals) w/spa and I'm using an salt chlorinator. The guy who installed it said that stabilizer values should be 80-100 ppm for the unit to work properly. My local pool store gives stabilizer levels of 40-100 ppm to be acceptable. Does it make sense that a salt chlorinator would need the higher stabilizer values? Thanks.

Bill, Tampa, FL, 4/27/2004

Not to me it doesn't. A level of 40-100 PPM is acceptable, although I would prefer 40-80 PPM. Because you are not adding a chlorine product containing stabilizer, the level will not rise over time. Test it occasionally, in order to replace amounts that may have been lost due to pump out, backwashing, splashing, etc. Enjoy the season.

I live in Houston. We are starting the process of getting quotes to build a new pool. My sister in Chicago has a pool ionizer. I have never seen anything as easy as this. Every season they put a few bags of salt in the pool when they and the ionizer makes its own chlorine. They rarely have to add anything. Is it possible to have this system in the hot humid weather that we have here in Houston? I do not want a pool that is not an ionizer. Can you help me in finding a pool company in our area that will install this system with maintenance service?

Not a problem! The product that you are referring to as an "ionizer" is more correctly described as a salt chlorine generator system. That's why some salt is added yearly: in order to replenish the salt content, after the pool water level has been restored in the springtime. An ionizer is something different: it uses copper and silver ions, in conjunction with shock treatments, to maintain proper water quality. An ionizer does not make chlorine! A salt chlorine generator system can produce all of your pool's chlorine requirements, with a minimum of other chemicals. It is like having a chlorine manufacturing plant. Chlorine output is controlled by a setting on a dial and is making adding pool chlorine the old fashioned way obsolete. It works in the humidity of Florida and the Arizona desert. Having it installed in Houston is as simple as going to a manufacturer's website. Using a dealer locator will help you find a local company. You'll, also, find a lot of product information on their website. Good luck with the pool.

► Pool & Spa Sharing A Salt Chlorinator?

We are planning to put a small above ground pool close to our hot tub, for next summer. Is there a salt water chlorinator that we can use for both? We wouldn't necessarily need to clean both at the same time.

Margo B., 8/31/2008

You might consider the Cubby Plug and Play system, from AutoPilot. This uses a cell that is mounted in a floating "swan". The unit is powered by a GFCI 110 volt outlet to the Cubby power supply. The cell has 25' of cord to run from the Cubby power supply to the spa or pool. Keep it in the pool, until you need some chlorine in the spa. Then, remove the swan from the pool and place it in the spa for a few hours to sanitize it and create a chlorine residual. My guess is that you can do this several times a week, depending on your usage, for less than an hour each time, and maintain sufficient chlorine levels in the spa. Then, because the pool is much larger, keep the "swan" in the pool until needed again in the spa. There is a control dial that you adjust to determine how much chlorine is produced. This dial is set between 0% to 100% output. It shouldn't take much to maintain the spa in this manner, but ensuring that your chlorine level is not too high, will needed to determined by actual usage. Both the pool and spa will need to have the proper levels of salt added. I hope that this information is helpful.

I was browsing through the information on mustard algae and came across pool automation. If we get a chlorine generator, can we use an automation control to regulate the chlorine level? The website was really helpful. Thanks for making it available.

A pool automation control can be used for pool accessories: filters, heaters, safety covers, automatic pool vacuums and more. A chlorine salt generator is connected electrically with the same circuit as the filter. When the pump goes on, the salt chlorine generator is activated. The chlorine level can be regulated by varying the control setting on the equipment or by increasing or decreasing the filter run. There are devices than can control the actual chlorine level. If you are interested in reducing the time and effort, a salt chlorine generator and pool automation system are a good means to accomplish this task. I hope that I have been helpful.

Alan, how about ozonators versus salt chlorine generators? I have been told ozonators kill a wider range of microorganisms than salt chlorinators. Also, a friend with a salt chlorinator adds muriatic acid regularly to kill algae. Your opinions, please.

Ron, 3/22/2003

Ozonators only work while ozone is actually being produced. There is no residual action. This means that ozone quickly leaves the water and that can allow for algae growth on the walls and in the corners. It needs a backup sanitizer to perform properly. Salt chlorinators are complete sanitizers and do not require a backup. It allows for easy control over the chlorine level and all water passing through the cell is super chlorinated. Having both salt chlorination and ozonation will allow for the salt chlorinator to be run at a lower production rate. This, in turn, will extend the life of the cell and reduce chemical usage. There is no sensation of salt in the water and little of the odor normally associated with chlorine. The addition of muriatic acid has nothing do with algae. It is being added to lower the pH of the water. I hope that I have been helpful.

I know that salt is added to the pool water and it is converted to chlorine, as it passes through a cell. Does that mean that the pool is now a salt water pool? Can you taste the salt? I like the idea of the product, but I don't like salt water swimming. Can you supply any details? Thanks.

Salt is added to the pool water and I believe that a typical addition would be 20-25 pounds per 1,000 gallons of pool water. That is far from the salt level of ocean water (about one-fourteenth) and it is not nearly enough to taste. From my own experience, there is no sensation of salt water. Not in feel or taste. I hope that I have been helpful.

I have a vinyl inground pool and am considering getting a salt chlorinator. I have been told that it will help maintain the appearance of the liner. Is someone pulling my chain? How can salt do that? Please explain.

No one is pulling your chain! It has nothing to do with the salt and everything to do with the consistency of the salt chlorinator. Salt chlorinating systems are controllable and avoid big fluctuations of the chlorine level. It is the presence of high chlorine levels that can cause your liner to fade. Maintaining a steady 1-3 PPM chlorine level is good for the pool sanitation and safer for the liner. Manual addition of chlorine can cause upward spikes in the chlorine level, resulting in the potential to cause fading. Refer to the page on "Vinyl Pool Liner Problems." I hope I cleared things up.

Do you know of some manufacturers of salt generators for above ground pools. Which one do you recommend and why? Are they worth the cost?

How about one that will cost about $200.00 and requires no installation. It can be used with above ground pools, up to 18,000 gallons in size. With a 3 year warranty, it is definitely worth the cost. No chlorine to handle or store, fewer problems and better water quality are just some of the advantages. Previously, cost was the big obstacle. Now it has become affordable, even for smaller pools. For more information about the ChlorEase Saltwater Chlorinator go to: www.smartpool.com I hope that I have helped you decide on joining the growing ranks of salt chlorine generator owners.

What a fantastic website! Thank you very much. I've read through much of your site, and I'm still confused over the mixing, or not mixing of salt, ozone, and shock. I'm in the process of interviewing pool builders to get an inground pool, roughly 13-15000 gallons. As you could guess, each builder has his own idea on what is good and what is bad. Through independent research, I've concluded that the ozone system is a benefit, and the salt generator is also. This is especially important to me since my 3 year old son has eczema. My main source of confusion is in shocking the pool. Is shocking required with a salt system? One builder says no, another says a chemical shock can be used, or put the generator in "shock mode" which lasts for 4 days. I believe I also read somewhere that salt generators do shock, but slow enough that it doesn't always work on some algae. Somewhere else, I read that you must perform chemical shocks with the salt, but not if you have an ozone unit. Yet another says the ozone does absolutely nothing, is merely a scam and, therefore, has no bearing on pool treatment. In truth, I just want what will be best for the family and my son's skin problems, regardless of the amount of work involved. Any guidance is greatly appreciated.

Salt chlorine generators are pretty much a stand alone sanitizer. All of the water passing through the cell is "shocked" for all intents and purposes. The use of a supplemental shock is required only if there is a sudden loss of water quality, the bather usage is very high or there are signs of algae. Otherwise, effective control is achieved by choosing a setting. Under proper conditions, algae should be a rarity. Ozone is anything but a scam. Ozone is not a complete water sanitizer and should be used with a backup sanitizer, such as chlorine, bromine, mineral sanitizers or ionizers. Using a salt chlorine generator and an ozonator is of tremendous benefit. Both products will oxidize wastes and contamination. The salt chlorine generator will provide basic sanitation and act as a back up for the ozonator. The ozonator will allow the salt chlorine generator to be operated at a lower power setting and this will extend the useful life of the cell. Less chlorine will have to be produced, in order to maintain a satisfactory level because of the ozone. The need to use a supplemental shock would seem to be nil, unless the pool is totally neglected. Both salt chlorine generators and ozonators destroy the irritating, odorous and ineffective forms of chlorine. This combination is about as good as it gets and there will less work, less chemicals being used and stored and easier chemistry to maintain. If the cost is doable, it is worthwhile! I hope that I have been helpful. Good luck and enjoy the pool.

I am getting estimates on installing a pool and one of the pool builders said a cell salt generator is hard on the equipment and would not recommend them but prefers a Chlorine and Ozone system. What is the impact of the salt system on the equipment?

What impact? The only problem might occur if two dissimilar metals were in immediate proximity to one another. After 25 years or more the equipment manufacturers know this and have designed the equipment accordingly. Some lower quality stainless steel ladders or rails could be affected. I suggest that you use 316 stainless steel or even better would be a ladder and rail made of composite material. It will be chemically resistant, easy to maintain and won't get hot to the touch. Use the combination of chlorine and ozone and you will have good water quality. But, you will have to take care of the chlorine level, store chlorine and handle chlorine. Or you could go with a salt chlorine generator and get great water quality, without storing or handling any chlorine. You will be able to control the level with the press of a button or the turn of a dial. That could be why 90% of the pools in Australia have salt chlorine generators. I hope that I have been helpful.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 4/28/2005

► Sacrificial Zinc Anodes?

Do zinc anodes need to be attached to metal in a saline pool to provide protection against corrosion, or can you just drop some zinc into the plastic skimmer baskets?

Brad H., 5/12/2008

The use of a Sacrificial Anode, with any type of pool, is more of a preventative issue, than it is a protection device. The fact is, if your pool has a bad bond wire loop, you are not able to discharge stray currents in the water and as a result, electrolysis takes place. The anode sacrifices it's alloy to the depletion rather than eroding the stainless steel and copper. It acts like a home smoke detector. It warns you that there's something wrong. I believe these products are recommended to be placed in the pump or skimmer basket. Follow their instructions as to location. I would add that for a normally operating pool with a proper bonding grid and for a salt system that is properly installed, you have no need for the anode. AutoPilot has been marketing salt systems, for over 15 years, prior to the pool industry suggesting sacrificial anodes for salt pools. While it is not harmful, it is not necessary either, with a properly built and maintained pool. In a swimming pool, stainless steel should be unaffected by the salt, so long as the level is under 6000 PPM, which is about twice the level, in most pools. I suggest that you use 316 stainless steel or even better would be a ladder and rail made of composite material. It will be chemically resistant, easy to maintain and won't get hot to the touch. For more information about these products go to: www.innovativecomposites.com Zincs are used in marine out drives, in order to protect other metals that are in immediate contact with one another. The issues are different. I hope that this information is helpful.

I e-mailed you a few weeks ago for information on chlorine generators, thank you for the helpful info. Since that time, my husband and I have been gathering information from some of our local pool dealers and of course now I am more confused than ever. We have a 3 yr old in-ground 20,500 gal. vinyl lined, biguanide maintained pool located in CT. We had an algae problem last year and want to discontinue the biguanide. Our pool dealer sells the a salt chlorinator system, but advised us against using one because we have well water with known high iron and manganese levels. (we do have a water system softener system). When we filled our pool initially, we used half well water and half was delivered. The water was tested and not found to have metals present. We purchased a Dolphin robotic pool cleaner for this season. Our pool dealer recommends that we change the sand in our filter and now that we have the Dolphin to continue with the biguanide. I stopped in at another pool dealer and they suggested trying a "copper-based product" as an alternative to using biguanide. She said they have not found any staining problems, even with well water. I was doing some research about this "copper-based product" and I am now concerned about the copper. Most of the pool forums I visit say to stay away from all copper based products in general. I was considering going with regular chlorine, but I am concerned about the liner bleaching. Any advice you can give me is greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance. Sincerely.

If you have a sand filter that is operating properly and would like to improve the water quality, replacing the sand with Zeobrite should be all that you need. With Zeobrite the filter will be able to remove those small particles that previously could have passed right through the filter. It can even take out some of the metals! Why hasn't someone suggested this before? Zeobrite sand filter replacement weights a lot less than sand. You should require one-half of the weight of sand. That means in place of 300 pounds of ordinary filter sand, you will only require 150 pounds of Zeobrite. For more information go to: www.zeotechcorp.com

You need to give up on biguanide, no matter what. It is common for people to develop resistant microorganisms, after a few years of use. Once this happens, you should make the switch permanent.

The use of copper products, with well water, is poorly advised. If you have metals in the water, you will have to treat them with appropriate products. Copper will just become part of the problem and will require even more metal treatment, while offering diminished performance. I have a wealth of experience with copper products and I never believed their use with metal-laden well water was the best move.

To switch from biguanide, you need to add 4 pounds or gallons of chlorine per 5,000 gallons of pool water. Add more, if necessary, until a stable FREE CHLORINE level is maintained. However, before doing this I suggest that you add at least a double dose of metal treatment, even if the tests are negative. If not negative, add at least one dose per 0.5 PPM. More is better!

Liner bleaching can occur when high levels of chlorine are maintained for long periods of time or there is direct contact with a chlorine product. A salt chlorine generator helps you avoid high concentrations and the need to shock the pool frequently. A turn of the dial allows for to set the level.

With the NITRO Robotic Pool Cleaner cleaning and filtering the bottom, there will be much better bottom circulation and fewer algae problems. For information of this product go to: www.smartpool.com

Which now brings us back to salt chlorinator. It is a much better choice than ordinary chlorine. Your pool has been filled with acceptable water and you should try and keep it that way. Add a dose of a metal treatment monthly or prior to adding new water. As a bonus, it will help keep the salt chlorinator cell free of scale. A salt chlorine generator will better serve your pool needs, cause less liner fading and be no more of a problem with metals, than would the hydrogen peroxide shock used with biguanide or the oxidizer used with the copper product or just plain old chlorine. I think it is the right choice! Good luck and I hope that I have been helpful.

Hi Alan. The water in our area is very "hard". It leaves hard, white build-up on the tile of the pool. Will a salt chlorination system help eliminate or significantly reduce the amount of build-up on the tile? Thanks for your time and expertise.

Good question! Adding a salt chlorinating system will require that about 2500-4000 PPM, depending upon the manufacturer's recommendations, of sodium chloride be added to the pool water. While, this will not increase the hardness level of the water, it will increase the Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) of the water; which in turn could reduce the solubility of some of the minerals in the water. The good news is that the salt chlorinating system will reduce the amounts of other chemicals needed to maintain water quality and will reduce the buildup of chemical byproducts, that are more likely to cause problems. All you should need to maintain the pool is an occasional dose of muriatic acid to lower the pH. Because the water is hard you might want to add a monthly dose of a calcium sequestering compound to help prevent scale formation. As a bonus, it will help keep the salt chlorinating system's electrode plates clean and free of scale. I hope that I have been helpful.

Hi Alan, I am currently designing a new house and pool in Tucson, AZ. I like the idea of the salt chlorine generator, but have heard some bad things about their reliability. Can you educate me on what is a good brand and what to avoid. Also, the prices vary on-line. What is up with that (they are both the same new unit, not refurbished)? One pool builder I've talked to only recommends a particular due to reliability. Should I plan on installing an ozonator in addition to the chlorine generator? I have read your other postings and understand it isn't required because it is just for additional sanitation (not primary). Would you install one? If so, would you go with the 24 hour operation type (instead of the ones that operate only with the filter system running)? The additional expense isn't a problem, but I don't want to do it without a good return on the money. I plan on servicing the pool myself because of privacy (I don't want a pool guy at my house).

Greg, Tucson, AZ, 3/25/2003

I am unable to offer any help so far as pricing is concerned. Not because I can't, but I don't keep abreast of the costs. I agree that price range is surprising. Some of the price difference could be due to the type of electrolytic cell that comes with the unit. The cells are not all the same and some will definitely last longer than others. Features such as self-cleaning electrodes, low salt indicators, flow indicators, timers and more are available. I had one of the first salt chlorinators, offered in the pool industry, on my pool, since the 80's. Today, the units are greatly improved over the original model that I had and I was very happy with the unit and its performance. You don't really require an Ozonator with a salt chlorinator system, but adding one certainly can't help but make a positive difference! They are great for convenience and should produce high quality results for you. I hope that I have been helpful.

I am a physician who lives here in Connecticut with my two children, ages 6 and 9, and my wife, who are all very blonde, and end up with green hair after a few short weeks of swimming. I have a chronic shoulder injury that requires that I swim in 90 degree pool water. My in-ground pool is 18x42, is heated by a propane heater, and it has an automatic pool cover. I am looking into an electronic chlorine generator and combining it with a UV sanitizer. I ruled out ozone generators because of the automatic cover, which covers the pool most of the day, as I am afraid of the accumulation of gas that my family may breathe in. What do you think of the combination of salt generator and UV sanitizer, considering that the pool is 90 degrees from June through September? I look forward to your reply.

First let's discuss the green hair. At about the time I was transitioning from life as a cosmetic chemist to a specialty pool chemicals manufacturer, an article about "green hair" was published in the Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists. It attributed the problem to the presence of copper from copper sulfate, natural sources and corrosion of copper components, as opposed to the use chelated copper algaecides. You have a heater and you probably use trichlor tablets in a feeder. Trichlor is acidic and if the water remains in an acidic state for prolonged periods of time, copper corrosion will follow. You should have the water tested for copper. Whether it shows up or not, add a double dose of a quality metal treatment. Not only might it help prevent more green hair, but it will help keep the salt chlorine generator cell free of scale deposits. You can use a salt chlorine generator without a UV sanitizer. You cannot use a UV sanitizer without chlorine, bromine or ozone. UV is not a persistent sanitizer, is not an oxidizer and has no residual effect. Chlorine is all of those things and more. The advantages of combining the two sanitizers is that you should be able to lower the chlorine level, while assuring that the return flow is free of viable microorganisms. I see this combination as ideally suited for a high bather load and high temperature situation. You must have a sanitizer, like chlorine, present in order to destroy microbial growth on the underwater surfaces. Once you have a salt chlorine generator installed, the pH of the pool water will tend to remain high. Acid conditions will be a thing of the past and so should copper corrosion. Some of the negatives about chlorine will also to things of the past: there will be less odor, less irritation and more consistent chlorine levels. If it ever comes to pass that you need a new heater, I suggest that you consider a heat pump. It will be less expensive to operate than propane, cleaner and there are models that do not use copper heat exchangers. For more information visit www.aquacal.com I hope that this information proves helpful.

I have been using bromine tablets in my pool for 9 years and really love everything about it except the cost and the 50# containers. I recently inquired about a salt bromine generator and the individual at the pool store stated that I can add bromine salt to a pool with a typical chlorine generator and that would work fine (I know that the chemistry is very similar but she wasn't very convincing). In addition one manufacturer's brochure did not state anything particular about such a conversion. Any thoughts? Thanks for any information that you can provide.

If you add approximately 10-25 PPM of sodium bromide to a pool, that is being maintained on the typical pool chlorine product, all of the chlorine will convert to bromine. The downside is that it cannot be stabilized or protected against the Sun's UV rays and can result in higher usage rates. Before adding sodium bromide, to a salt chlorinating system, check with the unit's manufacturer, as to their recommendations. It is possible that the bromides will have an adverse effect upon the life of the cell and could require a complete draining. It is, also, possible that sodium bromate could be formed and that may create adverse health considerations. A salt chlorinating system is capable of supplying all of the pool's sanitizing needs, without the addition of sodium bromide, and will avoid many of the odor problems associated with the usage of traditional chlorine swimming pool products. I hope that I was more convincing. Enjoy the season.

I have a 16x32 inground vinyl liner sport pool and was using bromine last year. I am switching to a salt water chlorinator and have been told many different things about whether I need to drain the pool completely or not to get the bromine out before the switch. The last suggestion was to drain the pool as much as safely possible (just above the sidewall bottom depth) and then to add chlorine neutralizer (or some other chemical to remove the bromine). Do you think this will work? Does this chemical really eliminate the bromine like they say? I really don't want to drain the pool completely to avoid liner problems. Thanks.

Whoever suggested that you add a chlorine neutralizer to get rid of the bromine really doesn't understand what needs to be done. Chlorine neutralizer will eliminate bromine, by converting it to bromide ions. However, adding chlorine will cause the bromide ions to form bromine again. You have to eliminate the bromide ions and, in that regard, chlorine neutralizer is useless. The salt chlorinator cell might be adversely affected by the presence of bromide ions. The only way to totally eliminate them is to replace water. I suggest that you contact the manufacturer and find out their suggestions for dealing with this issue. It might not be necessary to remove all of the bromide ions, but you need to obtain this information. Good luck and I hope that I have been helpful.

I have never owned a pool before and have just moved into a house with a 20k gallon pool. I think the pool and equipment are between 10 and 15 years old. It has an Autopilot system. I had the pool opened professionally, had the water tested and added 200 pounds of granular salt from the pool store. All indications on the Autopilot are normal, but after a week the chlorine levels are almost non-existent (free chlorine .17 and total chlorine .2). Everything else (Alkalinity (90), pH (7.35), Calcium Increaser (113), and Chlorine Stabilizer (80))are in the normal range. I then found out that the previous owner had converted from a chlorine to bromine system at some point. Not sure where to go to from here. I understand that I am supposed to add bromine. If so, how much, is there a special type, was adding the salt a mistake or was there a special type of salt that should be used. Appreciate any information. Thanks for the help.

Kevin M., 6/11/2006

AutoPilot salt chlorine generators are designed as a chlorine generator, but can be operated as a bromine generator with the addition of sodium chlorine and sodium bromide. However, because bromine cannot be protected from the Sun's UV rays with stabilizer, the salt cell output will have to be higher and this will shorten the cell life. At pool opening time it is common for the pool to have a high demand for chlorine or bromine. I suggest that you keep adding granular chlorine, until the free chlorine is 1-3 PPM. In reality, the chlorine (hypochlorous acid) will convert to bromine (hypobromous acid). When testing as bromine, the level should be 3-5 PPM. Hopefully, at that point, the AutoPilot will be able to continue to meet the demands of the pool. To maintain the pool on bromine, after adding the normal salt amount, add 2-4 lbs of sodium bromide. Thereafter, add 2-4 lbs of sodium bromide, for every 50 lbs of sodium chloride (salt) added. Bromine does afford some advantages: less odor and irritation, more flexibility with the pH and better performance against certain types of microorganisms. Good luck with the pool.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 6/12/2006

We just bought a house with a pool that has an salt chlorine generator. The previous owner replaced the cell recently, but didn’t adjust the chlorine production, thus the chlorine level is really high. We’ve turn off the generator for now, but I wondered if there was any other way to lower the chlorine. Please let me know.

Shutting off the salt chlorination system was the right first step. Without having been provided with specific details and not knowing where you are located, there are several options. If the pool is not vinyl, you can safely allow the chlorine levels to drop by themselves. Make sure that the filter is operated for normal periods of time. If the pool is vinyl or you would like to quickly get the level down to a more comfortable level, you can add a chlorine neutralizer product. Most pool dealers carry the item. It is used to reverse the effects of massive over chlorination. Use as directed and once chlorine level has been optimized, you should resume normal chlorination. I hope that I have been helpful.

Hello, I would greatly appreciate your opinion on salt water pools. I am installing a pool this summer and I can't make up my mind about going with a saltwater chlorinator. I have some apprehensions mainly because of possible corrosion damage. Have there been many problems with salt chlorinators and are they low maintenance. At the end of the day I guess the question I have is, if you were installing a pool would it be salt water. Regards.

I have had years of experience with a saltwater chlorinator on my pools - both in New York and Florida. Corrosion was never a problem, unless there were different metals in close proximity to one another. I did have some trouble with the underwater lights and had to have the metal bolts replaced. Other than this there were no other corrosion problems. It is a low maintenance item and greatly reduces chemical handling. Imagine being able to control the chlorine level with a simple turn of a dial. Yes, I would do it all over again!!! Good luck with your choice.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 4/1/2003

I am thinking of changing my pool over to a saltwater system. I was wondering which techniques are the best for stabilizing the pool when you have a saltwater system, or does a saltwater system stabilize itself? Thank you.

With a salt chlorine generator, all you need to do is add an initial dose to stabilizer to bring the level up to 40-60 PPM. Thereafter, more stabilizer is needed only to replace that lost through pump outs, backwashing and splash out. The overall water chemistry should be maintained in the usual manner. Because salt chlorinators destroy chloramines so effectively, you will find the swimming conditions more pleasant and easier to maintain. I hope that I have been helpful.

I am changing my pool to a salt chlorine generator type and I was wondering if I need to do anything to the chemical chlorine already in the water solution, before adding the salt and starting-up the generator. Thanks.

You might want to check the stabilizer level. If too high, above 100 PPM, you might want to replace some water before adding the salt. A range of 40-60 PPM should be adequate, to help protect the chlorine against the Sun's UV rays and allow the salt chlorine generator to operate more efficiently. Otherwise, the water chemistry should be maintained, as before. I hope that this information is helpful.

I'm building a new concrete 26X42 pool and I'm having a little difficulty deciding on the purifier to use. One of my concerns is to eliminate as much as possible any chemicals used (i.e. I hate the smell and feel of chlorine). So I've looked at several chlorine generators and Copper/Silver Ionizers. Some vendors swear by the generators because you don't have to handle chlorine. But, they can't answer my concern that the Chlorine content of the pool is probably no different (i.e. regular Chlorinators). On the other hand, Ionizers claim to use little or no Chlorine. What can you tell me about the relative strengths, beyond trivialities, between generators and Ionizers? Any recommendations are appreciated.

With an Ionizer you will still have to add chlorine, bromine or non-chlorine shock on a regular basis. Otherwise, organic byproducts will buildup to problem levels. The use o

f chlorine or bromine will act as a backup sanitizer and help assure better water quality. The ionization unit will reduce the use of chemical sanitizing products - how much less will depend on your particular usage pattern. The POOL FROG combines mineral sanitizer and salt chlorine generator technologies and allows the chlorine requirements to be reduced to about 1/2 of the normal level. The overall pool chemistry must still be maintained, as with any pool. Your concern about chlorine should be eliminated. Under normal conditions, it is chloramines that prove odorous and irritating. With a salt chlorination system, all the water passing through the cell will be free of odorous and irritating chloramines and there should be much less of a sensation of chlorine being in the pool. My own long-term, experience bears this out. It is the chloramines - not the chlorine that are being smelled. There are no chlorine containers to handle or store! As with any chlorine pool, you will have to maintain all of the other water chemistry parameters. Test the salt level, periodically to assure that the amount is within the proper range. Good luck with your decision. I hope that I have been helpful.

Please help me! I recently drained my NEW pool after being sold chemicals at the pool store that made it look like 2% milk. Here is my problem. It is a 25,000 gallon saltwater chlorinator system. I added 750 lbs of salt, stabilizer, and acid to get it fired up for the first time...it has been superchlorinating for 30 continuous running hours so far. After the initial 30 hours, I have it set to run 7 hours a day. The pool store said I needed to superchlorinate every day for the first seven days. I am worried about doing this being that after the first 30 hours I have a 3 ppm free chlorine reading, 3 ppm total, 7.8 pH, and 180 alkalinity. My limited pool knowledge tells me to set the chlorinator to its normal low setting, due to it being in its acceptable range already and stop superchlorinating. Unless there is a specific advantage to going all week for startup, wouldn't this make the free chlorine reading skyrocket, if I kept superchlorinating? Should I only adjust the pH and TA with muriatic acid and turn down the chlorinator. My 4 in 1 kit tells me to add 1.15 quarts of acid to bring pH down, and the same kit says add 12 quarts of acid to bring down TA. Which should I do? Have I given the pool enough time to get an accurate reading? I am hesitant to go the national pool store that has been helping me due to prior weak advice. Thank you for your help.

If your water is clear and there are no signs of algae on the walls, there is absolutely no reason for you to continue to operate the saltwater chlorinator system at a superchlorination setting. Your free chlorine level is at the high side of optimum and the combined chlorine is zero -- meaning there probably is no algae problems. You are correct, in surmising, that continuing superchlorination will only cause the free chlorine readings to become unacceptably high. Operate the equipment to maintain a free chlorine level of 1-3 PPM. I suggest that you control only the pH and keep it within 7.2-7.8. So long as you are not experiencing cloudy water, due to the combination of high calcium hardness levels and high total alkalinity, there is no compelling reason to have to lower the TA. Perhaps there was a misunderstanding in the advice that was given, but clearly it was inappropriate. I hope that I have simplified things. Enjoy the pool.

The scale consists of calcium carbonate, in virtually all cases. A self cleaning unit should help avoid the problem. Otherwise, the cell needs to be cleaned, according to the manufacturers, instructions. Using a product such as the AquaPill Salt Cell Cleaner can help avoid and control the buildup. For more information go to: www.smartpool.com I hope that this information proves useful.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 4/16/2007

We are putting a pool in this summer and would like to put in a salt water chlorinator. Our builder does not have much experience installing them in our area (Burlington, Ontario) and is worried about how they will stand the test of time in our climate. What are the negative effects of a salt water pool in the Ontario winters.

► Improper Bonding (Grounding)?

I install pools in Michigan and just started installing salt/chlorine generators this year. Some of my customers are getting shocks from the pool and decking or hand rails, sometime only from one side of the pool. It seems to be a bonding issue with the coping? How do they bond a pool, say in Florida, where they have used these longer than we have? Any Info or contacts would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Steve, Michigan, 9/21/2006

In Florida, the rebar is bonded before pouring the concrete deck and pool form, as are the light niche, ladders and handrails. You can try turning off devices from the main circuit breaker to see what may be causing the electrical shock. If you get to the point that all the devices are turned off and you still feel a shock, it may be the utility company's problem on the main grid. Ground is often mixed with the neutral and the result is a shock. Regarding salt systems, there should be a bonding lug on the base of the control unit. Make sure this is wired to the main bonding wire (commonly connected on the pump's motor housing too). I hope that this information helps.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 9/22/2006

Editors note: the information was provided by the good people at AutoPilot.

A good question: one that I had to seek some expert advice on. This will not work because the plates are not bi-polar. Each plate, in a manual system, is either positive or negative. What it will do is damage the cell. That is why each side has a different size plug, so you can’t hook it up incorrectly. Chalk it up to progress, but the newer units with polarity-reversing features are clearly better. Still any salt chlorinator is better than adding chlorine the old fashioned way! I hope that I have been helpful.

We have just bought and installed a salt chlorinator which states the salt cell plates should sit vertical inside the salt cell plastic housing. However, when trying to ensure this it meant the plastic threaded end of the salt cell was not quite tightly screwed in place and thus it leaked water when the unit was switched on. If I tighten the salt cell screw and thus cure any water leakage I notice that the plates no longer sit quite vertical and are approximately 20 degrees from perpendicular. Also, they vibrate when water passes through them. Please could you advise if any of this is supposed to happen. Regards

Gwyn W., Australia, 1/7/2008

The function of the "must sit vertical" is for the GAS TRAP to work properly. Most Australian units use a gas trap, rather than a flow switch, used in American Engineered units, to detect if there is sufficient flow or not. If not, the gases produced from the cell will form an air gap that disconnects, the conductivity of electricity from a cell blade to another electrode sensor. Once it sees this "open circuit" condition, it will shut off power to the cell. With the cell not exactly vertical, you would have to determine, if it's off center enough to affect this gas trap protection. The problem, with the gas trap protection, is that it is accumulating hydrogen gas, which can explode under the "wrong" conditions. I suggest that you contact the manufacturer of the salt system to see, if 20 degrees off, is acceptable. It is obvious that to operate properly, the salt cell must be securely screwed into the fittings. Most American salt chlorine generators utilize a flow detector and can be installed in horizontal to vertical positions, unless otherwise specified by the manufacturer. I hope that this information is helpful.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 1/8/2008

Good question and a surprise answer! Yes, you can use Zeobrite and a salt chlorine generator together. In fact, it makes it better! Zeobrite has to be periodically regenerated with a salt solution. If you have a salt chlorine generator, it never has to be done. Enjoy the summer.

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