salt chlorine generators, salt water chlorinators, salt chlorinators and salt chlorinating systems for swimming pools

Salt Chlorine Generators, also referred to as Salt Chlorinators, Saltwater Chlorinators or Salt Chlorinating Systems are actually miniaturized chlorine manufacturing plants: the same technology is utilized. The devices are plumbed in-line and work by electrolytically converting salt, in the pool water, into chlorine as it passes over specially coated titanium electrode plates. Salt must be added to the pool prior to start up, as directed. Thereafter, salt need only be added occasionally, to replace that lost due to splash out, pump outs or backwashing. The device generates Free Chlorine and destroys odorous and irritating chloramines, as the water passes through the cell. Chlorine production is controllable by a setting and the equipment operates in conjunction with the timer controlling the filter. Properly used, there is much less sensation of chlorine being present. The other water analysis parameters must be maintained, as with any chlorine-maintained pool. It certainly is easy-to-use and convenient and lends itself to pool automation. Clicking on the underlined and highlighted "keywords" or "catch phrases," in the archived answers will give you access to additional information on that topic or product. Please refer to the Glossary, if there are terms or phrases that require explanation.

Dear Alan: We are considering a salt water chlorinator. Could you answer a few questions. Is this a reliable pool water sanitizing method? Is it easy to use? Will it save money? Do you favor a particular brand? Are there any negatives? Thank you for the help.

A saltwater chlorinator is as a reliable a sanitizing method as any other form of chlorine. The big difference is that it avoids or reduces a lot of the chemicals and makes the overall pool water chemistry easier to maintain. You'll find that there is less handling and storing of chemicals. So far as the economics are concerned, I really don't have all the information necessary to make that determination. However, I would suspect that it will be quite favorable over time. But the convenience factor is significant and almost without comparison. A salt water chlorinator is one of those products that can be controlled by a pool automation system: another convenience plus! My long-term, personal experience with the product was very satisfactory and I know that the product category has been improved considerably over the years. The quality units incorporate some of the best technology and have cells that should provide extended service. I hope that I have been helpful.

► Safety Concerns?

We are planning to put in a pool and are thinking of using a Salt Water Chlorinator. Can you tell me what you know about the differences between the salt system versus chlorine? Is one safer than the other for small children? You know how they sometimes swallow water, get it in their eyes and have sensitive skin. Thanks.

With a salt chlorine generator, there are no chlorine products to store or handle an

d no chlorine products to leave exposed to children. In either case, the pools will be maintained on chlorine. With a salt chlorinator, the chlorine level is controlled by a setting on a dial, avoiding uncomfortably high levels that might exist, when chlorine products are manually added. Chloramines are an irritating and odorous form of combined chlorine and are a problem in most chlorine pools. However, with a salt chlorinator, all of the chloramines are destroyed, as the water passes through the cell. Your overall pool maintenance will be simplified and fewer chemicals will be required. Everything about this type of product is kid friendly. You can pretty much say goodbye to "red eyes." For more information on the AutoPilot line of salt chlorine generators go to: www.autopilot.com I hope that I have been of assistance.

My brother has a saltwater chlorinator on his inground pool. Can this type of equipment be used in an above ground pool? Pool size is about 10,000 gallons. Any idea about cost? Can I use a timer? Thanks.

Saltwater chlorinators can be used with all types of pools. Smaller units or units especia

lly designed for above ground pools are available. Two ChlorEase above ground models are available. Units intended for above ground use are generally smaller and less expense, than those intended for the larger inground pools. It is not recommended that you use it with the same timer as the pool pump. The timer may not be able to handle the current load of both the ChlorEase unit and the pump. If you want, you can use a separate timer for the ChlorEase unit and run it for an amount of time suitable for the chlorine requirements of your pool. Every pool will be different depending on size, time of year, type of usage, exposure and other factors. For more information on an above ground saltwater chlorinator, go to: www.smartpool.com I hope that this information will prove helpful.

I am concerned about using a salt water pool and an anti-microbial cartridge filter that contains silver. I am sacred that the addition chlorine and the electrolysis will cause the silver to leach out of the filters and precipitate. Or it could possibly form suspended particle and make the water very cloudy. Is the any information available that would alleviate my concerns?

I don't think electrolysis is an issue. Salt chlorine generators are routinely used with mineral sanitizers that contain silver. The release of the silver is very low and staining and precipitation are not expected. King Technology offers a hybrid salt chlorine generator/mineral sanitizer unit that combines the properties of both technologies. For more information go to: www.kingtechnology.com I hope that this information is helpful.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 9/7/2007

► Concern About High TDS?

I apologize for forgetting to ask you this in the first email, but I do have one more question for you regarding saltwater chlorinators. It has to do with TDS (Total Dissolved Solids). The N.S.P.I standards for TDS are ideal: 1000-2000 ppm, and maximum: 3000 ppm. Since, for a saltwater chlorinator, you need at least 2500 ppm of salt alone, how does that square with the N.S.P.I standards? What kind of problems can occur if your TDS are too high? Thanks.

Richard, 4/7/2004

Good question. The TDS standard does seem at odds with the requirements of a salt chlorinator. The standard is a guide and is based on the TDS being composed of various calcium and sodium carbonates, bicarbonates, chlorides, sulfates, cyanurates and other minerals. Some of these salts have limited solubility, especially at higher pH and TA. In order to avoid cloudy water and scaling, the TDS is recommended to be capped at 3000 PPM. TDS readings are usually expressed as PPM of sodium chloride, even though the dissolved salts are not sodium chloride exclusively. Being that sodium chloride is quite soluble, the addition of 2500 PPM or more should not present a problem, even in areas with relatively high TDS. It certainly presents less of a problem than the addition of various chlorine compounds over time. High TDS can be a problem, when a major portion is due to calcium as opposed to sodium salts. Saltwater chlorinators are very popular in high TDS areas such as Arizona. I would not expect any problems, except with some extraordinary poor quality water. I hope that I have cleared things up.

► Starting Up: Stabilizer & Chlorine?

I just ordered a waterproof Tracer PockeTester, Salt, TDS & pH, from your website, and am filling and starting up my new saltwater spa for the first time. In the directions for the chlorine generator, it says I need to not only add sufficient salt, but also stabilizer and chlorine. Is this really necessary? I hope to get the tester soon. Thanks. Have a good Thanksgiving.

Zack L., 1122/2007

The directions make complete sense. The addition of the chlorine stabilizer will help the chlorine last longer, by protecting it from the Sun's UV rays. You're starting off without any chlorine. Adding some will help prevent algae growth and make it easier for your salt chlorine generator to maintain the right level. A level of 1-3 PPM, of free chlorine, would be ideal. In short, it avoids having to play catch up. Enjoy the holiday and the pool. Thank you for the order.

You might be able to get away without adding stabilizer. In the summer, your salt chlorine might be hard pressed to supply the pool's chlorine needs. However, there is a price to not adding stabilizer. Because you are producing more chlorine, the salt cell will not last as long. The more chlorine you produce, the more the pH will require downward adjustment with acid. Most issues, with cyanuric acid, involve the high levels, that result from regular use of stabilizer chlorine. It can reach 200 PPM and higher, if not monitored. In your case, you merely need to do a one time addition of 40 PPM. If you have a heater, the green hair is more likely due to copper, from the use of copper algaecides or from corrosion of the copper heater core, if present. Add some metal treatment and see if that helps eliminate the problem. The stabilizer choice is yours. There is another choice here: add an ozone generator. Because it also provides oxidation, it will allow you to set the salt chlorine generator, at a lower setting, extending the life of the salt cell and making pH control easier. It is an ideal combination, especially when both units are full sized for the pool. I hope that this information proves helpful.

Hi Alan. Your site has been MORE THAN HELPFUL to me in the past few weeks! THANKS YOU SO MUCH for all of your helpful advice. We are having a salt chlorinator system installed on our 25,000 gallon pool in two days and I am so excited! I have learned so much from your site, that I feel confident in maintaining the salt system with virtually little effort. My concern is in the establishment of the system. The pool professional we chose does not know a lot about salt systems, but he says he is learning. My biggest question is in initial startup - how much salt to add and what else needs to be done for the initial startup? Once again, THANK YOU for hosting your site and answering all these questions. I will recommend you to all my friends with pools. Sincerely.

Thank you for the kind comments about the website. I can't provide an exact figure on the salt requirement, as it does vary according to the salt chlorine generator manufacturer. You should check the instruction manual to be sure. It will require something in the neighborhood of 25 pounds per 1,000 gallons of water. Use non-ionized food grade or water softener grades of salt. Do not use rock salt or industrial grades! It is important to have it within a certain range, so make sure that you use the correct dosage and pool volume. Test the level to be sure. Thereafter, you need to add more salt to replace that lost through pump outs, splash outs and backwashing. Chlorine stabilizer levels of 40-80 PPM are acceptable. The only other thing that I suggest is the addition of a dose of a metal treatment. This can help avoid discoloration, if metal are present and, at the very least, will help keep the cell clean. Keep tabs on the pH, as it can tend to rise. This is basically a chlorine pool without chlorine to handle or store. Good luck and I'm sure that you'll enjoy the product and appreciate the difference it will make. Enjoy the season.

We have a 16 x 32 inground pool with a "SALT" system. We have had to add salt in November and December and on both occasions once the salt was dispensed it has left a discolored stain in the area where the salt was poured. The color is not black but a light brown. The company where we purchased the pool has been of minimal help. If you have the slightest bit of information please let us know as this pool is only 5 months old and I am trying to save the liner. Thanks.

The staining that you are describing is not something normal or inevitable. There are several possibilities: the salt was of industrial quality and contained trace metals such as iron, the pool water contained low levels of iron and, perhaps, the addition of the salt and the resultant high TDS caused the iron to precipitate or the salt was not distributed around the pool and/or was allowed to remain in prolonged contact, without the benefit of being stirred. This type of staining could have been caused by the prussiate of soda in the salt. This is an anti caking agent, present in some grades of rock salt. In either case, I would try adding a dose of a metal treatment to the pool and try to remove the stains (most likely iron) by applying acid. To do this take a white sock with 1/2 pound of pH decreaser powder and drop it onto the stained area. Leave it in place for a few minutes and slowly move around with the vacuum pool. Hopefully the acid will dissolve the stains. You can also try a similar technique using oxalic acid. Periodic addition of a dose of mineral treatment will help prevent staining and, in addition, help keep the salt chlorinator plates free of scale deposits. I hope that this information will prove helpful. Best wishes for the new year!

Editors Note: not all grades of salt contain prussiate of soda (iron containing anti-caking compound). It may be present in rock salt. While staining or discoloration problems aren't inevitable, avoiding salt containing the additive will help reduce the possibility. In any event, always spread the salt around the pool perimeter, keep the filter running, engage the main drain, use the pool vacuum to promote better bottom circulation and use the pool brush to stir things up. If a dose of a quality metal treatment is added a few hours prior to the salt addition, the likelihood of the problem should be lessened and will afford the additional benefit of helping to keep the plates scale-free.

We have a mineral/salt unit using salt. The mineral reading was 2400 and then the next day the mineral reading fell to 0. We took the unit off and cleaned it in a diluted muriatic acid bath. Then we reinstalled the cell but it is still 0. Any ideas?

This mineral reading is just the PPM of salt. It cannot go from 2400 PPM to 0 PPM overnight. Cleaning the cell plays no role in being able to test the salt level. Something is wrong with whatever you are using to test for salt. I suggest that you replace the tester, as it is not functioning properly. There are many, convenient ways to test for salt. The salt chlorine generator works best when a proper salt level is maintained. Always use a non-iodized food or water softener grade of salt. Never use rock salt or salt containing yellow prussiate. I hope that I have been of assistance.

A Top Seller!

The PockeTester for Salt, TDS & Temperature.

Easy-to-use!!!

Click the image for product and ordering information.

I have a salt system and I am adding 50 lbs of salt a week to maintain a 3200-3500 level. I have done a bucket test and no leak is detected, plus my water bills are low. My pool is an 8500 gallon pool. What may be the problem? Thank you.

If the facts in your letter are correct, there are only two possibilities. #1. The method used to measure the salt level is incorrect and/or unreliable. #2. You have a leak and are losing something on the order of 1500-2000 gallons of water weekly. There are no other possibilities that will account for the need to replenish the salt weekly. The salt recycles itself and the only way to lose salt is by pump out, backwashing or overflow. You should only be requiring about 50 pounds a year, more or less, depending upon your pool equipment and circumstances. Perhaps, heavy rainfall is disguising the leak, but it is there! You need to locate the leak or account for the salt loss. It could be in a pipe, seam, drain, return fitting, skimmer, cutout, etc. You might want to give FIX A LEAK a try. If it works, it will save you a lot of time and expense. Visit them at www.fixaleak.com Otherwise, you might consider calling in a leak detection professional. For more information and for a directory of local pool leak experts, go to: www.poolleak.info I hope that this information will you understand the problem and help you solve the riddle.

I live in the Houston, Texas area with a 20,000 gallon in ground pool. We are considering changing to salt chlorination, but have frequent heavy rainfalls that require dumping several inches of water out of the pool into the storm drain system to restore the pool level. We can get 4-6 inches of rain in an hour once or twice a year, and get 3 inches or more an hour once a month. Would having to drain this much water out of the pool this frequently make it difficult to maintain the salt level required for salt chlorination? How does one test the salt concentration after a heavy rainfall and draining? Thanks!

You will have to make allowances, if you pump water to waste, as that will lower the salt concentration. Each manufacturer has a given range for optimum performance. Some units have low salt indicators. Testing salt is easy with a PockeTester Salt Tester. Just dip it in the water. Salt chlorine generators are a big step forward from ordinary chlorine. I hope this information proves helpful.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 5/23/2007

We are in the process of considering an in ground pool. Our sales person has told us about the salt water generators. At this point I do not know what kind or brand they recommend. Some of the answers you have given says not to use rock salt and that is what she said was used. I sure don't want to start out using the wrong kind. Does she not know what she is talking about? When you refer to food grade are you referring to table salt? And am I reading you correctly that it is 20-25 lbs of salt to 1,000 gallons of water? Our pool will be 16 by 30. That sounds like a lot of salt to me. Is there an therapeutic sides to using the salt water system? We're excited about getting started but want to cover all our basis before we make a decision. Thanks for your help.

My recommendation not to use "rock salt" is based on the fact that this material can contain yellow prussiate of soda, which is added as an anti-caking agent. You're right it does take a lot of salt, but not enough to taste. Ocean water is about 17 times saltier. Given the large quantity, you do not want to add salt with yellow prussiate of soda because that can cause iron staining to occur. To make sure that staining does not occur, it is suggested that non-iodized food grade or a water softener grade be used. The small additional cost can save you lots of problems, with your salt chlorine generator. You were wise to check into this matter and try to get off on the right foot. Good luck with the pool. I hope that I have helped in the decision making.

I been reading up on salt chlorinators and have purchased a mineral/salt unit. They suggest using their proprietary product as the salt. This is very expensive at approximately $30 for a 30 lb bag. They suggest one bag for every 1000 gallons. Do you know anything about this system and do you know if I can use other salt instead? Thanks.

All salt chlorine generators work on the principle of electrolytically breaking down salt (sodium chloride) into chlorine and other byproducts. All salt chlorine generators are not the same, but so far as I know all, without exception, require that a salt concentration within certain ranges be maintained. Again, so far as I know, all salt chlorine generators can utilize either non-iodized food grade salt or water softener grade salt. Salt containing yellow prussiate of soda or rock salt should not be used, because of the presence of undesirable materials. The modest price of non-iodized food grade or water softener grades of salt is one of the factors that make ownership of a salt chlorine generator attractive and economical. While different water supplies might require additional additives, this is best addressed based on a water analysis and the pool's actual needs. I hope that I have been helpful.

I have soft touch, AutoPilot salt system and I have a reading of 4800 ppm. I would like to know what a need to lower the salt to 3000 ppm? My pool is 11,144 Gallons. Your help is greatly appreciated. Regards.

AutoPilot Systems do not require a high salt cutoff or warning and can operate satisfactorily at levels up to 35,000 ppm! AutoPilot cells, unlike the others, are not affected by high salt levels. Systems that have a high salt protection cannot handle the high salt and are probably the units that will damage the cell, under these conditions. The reason for protection is that the transformer runs hot with higher salt (greater conductivity) levels. Unless you are sure that you added too much salt, I suggest that you verify that the salt level is where you think it is. Your concern about excessively high salt levels greater than 6,000 PPM, should be directed towards metallic fixtures such as handrails, ladders, light rings, or heat exchangers. Higher salt levels will approach the taste threshold of about 3,500 PPM. To lower the level to 3,000 PPM, you need to pump out about 3,200 gallons of water or drop the level to about 6,966 gallons, taking care not to pump out too much water at a time, as this might cause problems in high water table situations. To avoid the possibility of pools popping up or vinyl liners floating, it may be safest to pump out the water in smaller increments. In either case, replace the pumped out water with fresh water. However, if the taste is not objectionable, the salt level can be left at its current level. It should dissipate, as time goes by, without any damage to equipment. I hope that I have been helpful.

Editors Note: some input from AutoPilot Systems was included, in order to provide a more comprehensive answer.

► Taste And Feel?

I have looked through your site, but couldn't find an answer to the question of what to expect with a salt chlorinator regarding water taste and feel. Will the water be salty at all? Thanks.

Russell F., 4/4/2006

It is there, but not easy to find. You will not be able to test the salt. It will only be about 1/15th that of ocean water. Most people agree that the feel of the water is better and more to their liking. If you don't tell them - they won't know why the water looks, feels and smells better!!! I hope that this is what you were looking to hear.

I have a salt water pool. I read somewhere suggesting that I could use "regular mill salt" in substitute of a weekly renewal salt product. What is "Regular Mill Salt"? Is this the same as Water Softener Salt pellets? If not, where can I buy this "Regular Mill Salt"? Thanks.

I am not familiar with the term "regular mill salt." However, so far as I know you can use non-ionized food grade or water softener grades of salt with all salt chlorine generators. Just do not use rock salt or salt with yellow prussiate of soda. The salt concentration should be maintained within the recommended limits, by the addition of salt, on as needed basis and as determined by the result of a salt test. Salt can only be lost through overflows, splash outs and pump outs. It does not get lost through evaporation and it is recycled after being converted into chlorine. Weekly additions of salt, especially without testing, can lead to having too high a concentration and that can damage the salt cell. I suggest that you test the level at the start of the season and occasionally, thereafter, and add salt to adjust the level to within the recommended range. I hope that I have been helpful.

Is there a special grade of salt for use with a salt chlorine generator? I know that I will have to add quite a bit and am wondering if it can be added all at once? Thanks for the information.

It is best to use a non-iodized food grade or water softener grade of salt. Avoid using "rock salt" or technical grades, as these may contain unwanted minerals or additives, such as yellow prussiate of soda (anti-caking agent). While you can add the salt all at once, you should disperse it around the pool perimeter. Keep the filter operating, until it is all dissolved. If there is a main drain, split the water intake with the skimmers. If there is no main drain, use the pool vacuum, as a temporary main drain. Use the pool brush, periodically, to stir up the bottom. Try and avoid allowing the salt sit in one small area. After everything is dissolved, adjust the overall water chemistry. Periodically, test the salt level, as replacement amounts might be necessary to make up for losses due to backwashing, pump outs and splash outs. I hope that the information proves helpful. Enjoy the season.

We have an AutoPilot salt chlorination system. We have recently opened the pool for the summer and the local temperatures have been between 40°F at night and 80°F in the day. The pool water temperature is staying between 58°F and 67°F. The water looks fine, but when tested, no chlorine is registering on the test strips. The chlorinator reading on the Pool Pilot reads at times from 30% to 74%. Do we need to do anything to the pool to insure we have adequate chlorine in the water. How does water temperature affect the production of chlorine in a saltwater system?

H.B., 4/18/2007

The AutoPilot as an Automatic Temperature Compensation feature that will regulate the output setting of the Digital based upon water temperature changes. When water temperatures decrease, the output % will decrease, to the point that at 55°F or colder, it will show 1% and will not allow you to raise it any higher, in order to protect the cell. As temperatures warm up, the output % will then increase to maintain the chlorine demand of a warmer pool. The chlorine lasts longer with cooler weather, therefore the automatic temperature compensator adjustment is down. Most other systems rely on the homeowner to adjust the output as the temperature fluctuates and tends to over-chlorinate when it gets cold. This is actually good for those systems, as it will also shut down when it falls below 60°F. You have to be careful that the chlorine level is not too excessive as it will cause damage to equipment. If you add some chlorine or shock manually, in order to control algae, try and keep the level no higher that 1-3 PPM, until the water starts to warm up. I hope that I have been helpful and enjoy the season.

I'm having an in-ground pool built in Cyprus. It measures 8 x 4 x 1.5 metres, approx 11000 gallons. Somebody has suggested a salt water chlorinator and is pushing to sell one that requires 7000 PPM of salt and is not self-cleaning. However, the water is very hard and someone else has suggested an in line brominator. Which system would be best. The house in Cyprus is a vacation home and I won't be there all the time, as I reside in the UK. There are pool maintenance firms who manually maintain pools. I would appreciate your advice. Kind regards.

A salt chlorine generator that requires 4000 - 7000 ppm of salt and is not self cleaning, is at a distinct disadvantage in very hard water situations. Salt chlorine generator systems are available that typically require 2500 - 3500 ppm of salt, are self cleaning and use less power. Disadvantages of the high salt levels include being closer to the taste threshold, higher replenishment costs and higher potential for corrosion. Non self-cleaning cells will require periodic manual removal of the cell, for cleaning purposes, and are less suited for pool automation. An in line brominator will introduce byproducts, that will build up over time, and must be considered a potential problem in very hard water situations. Bromine is more costly to start with and cannot be protected from degradation by the Sun's UV rays. My choice would be a salt chlorine generator. I hope that I have helpful with the decision making.

We recently purchased an above ground pool late last summer and are thinking of switching over to a salt generator before this summer season. We asked our pool dealer where we bought the pool and they said that salt generators will bleach the liners and rust the metal. They also stated that in the hot summer months (we live in TX), that the salt generators will not be able to produce chlorine fast enough to keep up with the algae production. Is this true?

Salt chlorine generators are far less likely to bleach a liner, than are chlorine-based chemicals, because the chlorine is produced at a lower, steady and more consistent rate. In addition, there is no longer direct contact between the liner and a slow dissolving chlorine. The salt is in the water and contained within the liner. The only metal subject to corrosion will occur, if two dissimilar metals are in immediate proximity to one another. If the salt chlorine generator is properly sized, it should meet the needs of the pool. During periods of high temps and heavy bather use, it may be necessary to add a quick-dissolving chlorine to supplement the production. Under these same conditions, it can be a real challenge to keep a steady, comfortable level with conventional chlorine. Salt chlorine generators are commonly used with above ground pool. Using a FROG Mineral Sanitizer, in addition to a salt chlorine generator, will provide persistent sanitation, allowing the need to less chlorine to be produced and making the control of the pH easier. The ChlorEase unit is especially designed for above ground pools up to 18,000 gallons. I hope that I have been helpful.

I installed the ChlorEase yesterday in a 13x25 x48", above ground pool. What a snap! How does the generator "know" how much water to supply chlorine to? In other words, if a 10,000 gal and 20,000 gal pool both have the same amount of NaCl in ppm, why doesn't the 10,000 gal pool end up with twice as much chlorine in the water? Do you recommend any type of test strips or kits in a NaCl pool? Thanks.

It doesn't! That's what water testing is for. There is no way to avoid it. How much chlorine a pool requires is not just based on pool size, but on weather conditions and bather usage. As the season changes, so will the chlorine requirements, but a salt chlorine generator makes it so much easier. Two bathers in a pool, require just about as much chlorine, for treatment of their wastes, in a 10,000 gallon pool, as in a 20,000 gallon pool. If the free chlorine level gets too high, you may have to unplug the ChlorEase unit or set it on a separate timer. Glad the installation went easily. I recommend The LaMotte Insta-Test strips, as they provide complete chlorine information, easily and reliably. The question was a good one, as I hope the season will be.

We have a large inground vinyl liner pool - about 44,000 gallons. When it was built we installed a salt chlorinator unit. We run the pump 24/7 and also have an inground cleaning system which we run daily. The water is great until it rains and our minerals get out of whack. However, we have been unhappy with the costs associated with adding special proprietary chemicals every time it rains due to a low mineral count. Could we just use salt like you have described for other units? Is it possible something is wrong with the cell in the unit?

Your system is a salt chlorine generator, similar in action to many others on the market, including the inground models on this website. One product is merely a propriety salt mixture. You can use non-iodized, food grade or water softener grade salt and maintain it at the PPM level required by your equipment. Salt is usually only added once or, as needed, to replace that lost by backwashing, pump outs and splash outs. The other product is a proprietary mixture that claims to be useful for many purposes. The bottom line is that if you operate the system properly and maintain a free chlorine level of 1-3 PPM, about all you should have to do is control the pH and TA. If your water is hard or contains metals, adding a calcium or metal treatment monthly, will help keep the cells and underwater water surfaces free of scale or stains. After periods of heavy rainfall, the chlorine level may bottom out. Adding a dose of shock and/or turning up the dial will restore the proper level, in most instances. If the unit is producing adequate chlorine, there would appear to be nothing wrong with it. I hope that this information proves helpful and a savings to you. Please tell your friends about the website.

A local company is trying to talk me into adding an ozonator to my pool, which already has a salt chlorinator. Is this overkill? Is there any sense to doing this? Thanks for any input that you can share.

Overkill? I used to think so, but now I don't this so. A salt chlorinator is a complete sanitizing system. By contrast, an ozonator needs a backup sanitizer, such as chlorine, bromine, an ionizer or a mineral sanitizer. Therefore, if you have an ozonator, adding a salt chlorinator can make a lot of sense. If you have a salt chlorinator, adding an ozonator will allow you to lower the settings and extend the life of the cell. This, in turn, will further reduce the overall chemical presence. Definitely a case of more being better. I hope that I have been helpful.

Would a Salt Water Generator be advisable for use in a fiberglass pool? Also, as we are gone for 5 months a year, what problems would this present with the maintenance of the system? Do all SW generators need to be acid washed? We plan to cover the (8.5x18x5ft deep) pool with a 4" thick spa cover, and to keep the pool at approx. 87-90 degrees. Would this effect the ability to use the SW generator effectively? Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge.

There's no reason that a saltwater chlorinator shouldn't be used with a fiberglass pool. Many salt chlorine generators have self cleaning cells, which I assume relates to the "acid washing" that you are referring to. You should be able to select a low setting and have it controlled by a timer. Once the organic matter in the pool is destroyed, very little chlorine will be required to maintain the pool. I suggest that you have someone periodically check the water level, chlorine and pH levels. Otherwise, salt chlorinator operation is highly automated. Have you given any thought to covering the pool with an automatic pool safety cover? It is much safer than what you are proposing, as this type of cover can support the weight of a person. It can be retracted at the press of a button, act as a solar cover, reduce evaporation, reduce chemical usage and help keep out debris. I hope that I have been helpful.

I have a in-ground vinyl pool with a salt chlorine generator I installed at the beginning of the summer. The water has been clear all season but I have now (after two weeks of not using the pool) noticed a yellowish staining in the steps and around the rim (bathtub ring and below the waterline). It does not scrub off so I do not think it is algae. I have kept the chlorine levels up so I would doubt algae could form. This must be some kind of scaling...How do you get rid of the stain? I bought some Scale Remover but after looking thru the salt generator owners manual, it made reference to a "saturation index" and mentioned that anything over .2 could cause stains. I did some calculations and determined my Saturation Index to be 0.270. What would try to adjust first? My Alkalinity is 119, my pH is 7.5, my Calcium is 250 and stabilizer is at 60. My first thought is to take the Alkalinity down a notch and use a metal remove to get the Calcium lower; both of these adjustments should take the Saturation Index down closer to 0.0 Any thoughts or advice? Thanks.

Scale consists of calcium carbonate deposits and should not be yellowish in color. Your water chemistry is only very slightly towards the scaling side, of the optimum range, and should not be causing the problem. Adding a metal treatment or calcium treatment will not lower the hardness: it will complex calcium and allow more to remain in solution without problems. Lowering the pH and/or the TA will lower the Saturation Index. This problem does not seem to have any direct link to the use of a salt chlorinator, as it is common in pools without salt chlorinators. The stains and discolorations could be the result of iron or other metals. That being the case, chlorine will not work. Shut off the filter, put 1/2 pound of pH reducer in a white sock and drop onto a stained area. Hopefully, as the acid dissolves the stains will be removed. Afterwards, use a scrub brush to help expose the surface and repeat as needed. If this works, but the area is too broad, lower the pH of the entire pool to about 6.0. Once the stains have been removed, add a double-triple dose of a quality metal treatment, prior to restoring the pH. Add at least 1 dose for each 0.5 PM of metals and allow 8 hours to work. In any event, add at least a double dose. Allow the water to recirculate for 6-8 hours after the metal treatment has been added and before the pH is raised. I suggest that you have the pool and tap water tested for iron, copper and manganese, as it may be necessary to treat the water monthly or whenever new water is added. If this does not work, try placing a few vitamin C tablets on the stain and let dissolve. If this works, lower the pH to 6.5 and add a chlorine neutralizer to discharge all chlorine present. Add a dose or either ascorbic or oxalic acids and allow to circulate overnight. Use the amount recommended on the package. Not all pool dealers carry these items. Do this only if the vitamin C tablets worked! Depending upon the nature of the problem, additional product may have to be added. Before raising the pH and chlorine level, add a double dose of metal treatment and wait 6-8 hours. As you raise the pH and chlorine, take notice of the water quality, as more metal treatment might be necessary. Good luck.

You were correct about metals in the pool: I just had the water tested again for copper & iron and they are reporting the copper level to be 0.17 ppm which looks to be off the chart high. I need to get my well water tested as it looks like I'm putting in more metal at each top-off. Thanks so much for your help on this.

I am looking into saltwater chlorination for above ground pools and would like to obtain more detailed information on the ChlorEase Chlorinator. This item seems to be a cost effective solution for an above ground pool. As a minimum, what water capacity can this item handle? The pool I am interested in is a 16’ x 33’ x 52” and is about 20,000 gal. How do you install this item? It does not appear to be inline with the filter pump. Does this item require additional accessories or is it stand alone? Regards.

The ChlorEase unit, depending upon the model, requires no installation, other than att

aching under the top rail. This salt chlorine generator is designed for above ground pools, up to 18,000 gallons in water content. Your pool actually contains 17,150 gallons, according to my calculations. It does not require connection to a pump. It hangs below the top rail, allowing for water to flow through the cell. All you need to do is plug it into a 110 volt, GFI protected outlet. It will require that salt be added to the pool water. Other than that, it is maintained like any other chlorine pool. I hope that the information will prove helpful.

I am having a pool installed this fall and wanting to go with the salt chlorinating system. I talked to a pool guy that is giving me one bid for the upcoming pool and he said that the cell would go out faster than normal because I am on well water not city. Any comments. Thanks.

If your well is of potable water quality, it is doubtful that it can make any measurable difference in the life of the cell. In either case, chemicals will be added to the pool to adjust the water to the desired water chemistry. If your well water contains high level of calcium and/or heavy metals, it should be treated appropriately. Ask him why it makes a difference, as I am eager to hear this!!!

It is never a good idea to drain any kind of swimming pool onto landscaped area. However, sometimes there is no practical choice. Normally the only water drained is that from backwashing, pump out or winterizing and is done on an occasional basis. Salt chlorinators require a few 1000 PPM of salt and this, generally, is well tolerated by the landscaping, especially if the drainage is good. In areas, where drainage is very poor and/or rainfall totals are very low, some effort might be made to minimize and disperse the discharges. Potassium chloride has been used, in place of sodium chloride, out of consideration for this problem. Thirteen pounds of potassium chloride are required for every 10 pounds of sodium chloride. No one has ever written to me describing the effects of this concern and, therefore, I surmise that most people should not expect to have a problem, if some precautions are taken. I hope that I have been helpful.

Could you possibly explain how the compound sodium chloride is converted to a Chlorine. I am interested in seeing how and why it occurs molecularly. I am a pool repair person and have had the question raised, but have not been able to give a complete answer. My thanks in advance,

Sodium chloride or common table salt is converted electrolytically, with the use of a salt chlorinator system, into chlorine and sodium hydroxide. In order for the salt chlorine generator to function properly, there needs to be a salt concentration, in the pool water, of approximately 2500-4000 PPM, depending upon the brand and/or model. The simplified chemical reaction is as follows:

2 (sodium chloride) + 4 (water) = 2 (sodium hydroxide) + 2 (Hydrogen) + 2 (hypochlorous acid)

In a swimming pool the chlorine forms hypochlorous acid (HClO), the active germicidal form of chlorine. Electrical energy is required to initiate the oxidation-reduction reaction, necessary to covert salt into hypochlorous acid. The salt chlorine generator provides the means to make this conversion. I hope that the information will prove helpful.

I have a service route and come across quite a few salt chlorinator systems. My question is how important is it to maintain the proper level of salt? How is it tested? Thanks.

Very important! Low salt levels can result in low chlorine production. High salt levels can result in overproduction and shorten electrode life expectancy. Testing is simple, as the there are a variety of testers and test strips available. The newest and, perhaps, the simplest, is the LaMotte TRACER PockeTester. Designed for the pool professional, but inexpensive enough for the caring pool owner, the Tracer PockeTester measures Sodium Chloride with a range from 0 to 9,999 ppm; TDS with a range from 0 to 9,999 ppm; Temperature from 32 to 149 F. The tester’s probe is dipped into a sample of pool water and the results are ready in seconds. A microprocessor allows for easy push button switching between TDS and Salt. I hope that the website has been helpful.

► Mineral Sanitizer And Salt Chlorinator?

I have a new pool is slowly being filled with water right now. I have both systems the frog and salt. I am having trouble deciding which one to use. The pool company that put the pool in says the FROG system is better. My friends that have pools say to go with salt. I just want to know which one will be easier to use. And if I choose the salt will my water have a salt taste to it. Which one do you recommend, and which one helps to make pool maintenance easier. My pool is in Southern California. Thanks.

Michael M., Upland, CA, 1/5/2007

Your pool will not have a salty taste! Just the Frog Mineral Sanitizer will not be enough. You will still need to add chlorine to oxidize wastes. I would use the salt chlorine generator as the primary means of sanitizing and oxidizing. Use the FROG as a backup and it will allow you to favor the low end of the recommended 1-3 PPM free chlorine range. Because you will be producing less chlorine, the pH will be easier to control. The combination of the two will make for better water quality and less maintenance. I hope that I have been helpful. Enjoy the pool.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 1/6/2007

I am building a pool in Mexico and am convinced that a salt-water chlorinator is the way to go, perhaps combined with an ozonator. I have two questions: 1. Does salt-water chlorination process have any corrosive or other detrimental effects on equipment (such as the pool pumps) over time, and if so, is there anything that can be done to minimize these effects? 2. I've received various recommendations concerning the size of the filtering pump I should use, relative to the size of the pipes (i.e. use 1/2 HP for 1.25" or 1.5" pipes), but I'm wondering how this ties into the salt-water chlorination processing requirements. My pool will hold roughly 8,000 gallons and I want to run the pump as little as possible (for maximum energy conservation). If I use a larger pump to reduce the number of hours it runs each day, how will this impact how much chlorine is generated relative to the amount required? The bottom line is that I want to make sure I have the appropriate balance between pump power, pipe size and chlorine generation for optimum efficiency and lowest possible maintenance. Any advice you can offer would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again for providing such useful and accessible information.

C. B., Mexico, 2/18/2005

Salt chlorinating systems do not normally present a corrosive situation, unless two dissimilar metals are in immediate proximity to one another. Salt Chlorination has become so popular today, that is extremely unlikely that you will experience problems, using the products in current production. Too big a pump can reduce chlorine production. There doesn't seem a need for you to exceed 1 HP, with 1-1/2" pipe. Energy consumption comes down to watts times hours. You should plan on operating the filter for 6-12 hours a day, depending upon temperature, usage and other circumstances. Trying to lower the filtering time, to a conservation-minded, short cycle, will, also, shorten the time that chlorine and ozone are being produced, and that operational practice could lead to algae problems and poor sanitation. Remember, sanitizer is only produced when the pump is on! The combination of salt chlorine generation and ozonation should prove very effective. I hope that this information proves useful.

I have had a saltwater chlorinator for a bunch of years and of late I seem to need to add some chlorine. Could this be because the cell is worn out? Can it be regenerated or does it have to be replaced? Thanks for the help.

There are several possibilities. Check the salt level, it may be too low. Your cell may have to be cleaned with an acidic solution. This is especially true, if your saltwater chlorinator does not have a polarity reversing, self-cleaning feature. Otherwise it is possible that the cell needs to be replaced. Evidence of corrosion of the plates can be confirmation. Some retailers offer replacement cells for a wide variety of units. If, in addition to the salt chlorine generator, you utilize a Frog Mineral Sanitizer, you will be able to operate the salt chlorine generator at a lower setting and this will extend the life of the salt cell. In addition, it will provide some sanitizing backup to carry you through periods of heavy bather usage. I hope that I have been of some help.

Alan, I have a new gunite pool (approx. 9400 gals) w/spa and I'm using an salt chlorinator. The guy who installed it said that stabilizer values should be 80-100 ppm for the unit to work properly. My local pool store gives stabilizer levels of 40-100 ppm to be acceptable. Does it make sense that a salt chlorinator would need the higher stabilizer values? Thanks.

Bill, Tampa, FL, 4/27/2004

Not to me it doesn't. A level of 40-100 PPM is acceptable, although I would prefer 40-80 PPM. Because you are not adding a chlorine product containing stabilizer, the level will not rise over time. Test it occasionally, in order to replace amounts that may have been lost due to pump out, backwashing, splashing, etc. Enjoy the season.

I live in Houston. We are starting the process of getting quotes to build a new pool. My sister in Chicago has a pool ionizer. I have never seen anything as easy as this. Every season they put a few bags of salt in the pool when they and the ionizer makes its own chlorine. They rarely have to add anything. Is it possible to have this system in the hot humid weather that we have here in Houston? I do not want a pool that is not an ionizer. Can you help me in finding a pool company in our area that will install this system with maintenance service?

Not a problem! The product that you are referring to as an "ionizer" is more correctly described as a salt chlorine generator system. That's why some salt is added yearly: in order to replenish the salt content, after the pool water level has been restored in the springtime. An ionizer is something different: it uses copper and silver ions, in conjunction with shock treatments, to maintain proper water quality. An ionizer does not make chlorine! A salt chlorine generator system can produce all of your pool's chlorine requirements, with a minimum of other chemicals. It is like having a chlorine manufacturing plant. Chlorine output is controlled by a setting on a dial and is making adding pool chlorine the old fashioned way obsolete. It works in the humidity of Florida and the Arizona desert. Having it installed in Houston is as simple as going to a manufacturer's website. Using a dealer locator will help you find a local company. You'll, also, find a lot of product information on their website. Good luck with the pool.

I was browsing through the information on mustard algae and came across pool automation. If we get a chlorine generator, can we use an automation control to regulate the chlorine level? The website was really helpful. Thanks for making it available.

A pool automation control can be used for pool accessories: filters, heaters, safety covers, automatic pool vacuums and more. A chlorine salt generator is connected electrically with the same circuit as the filter. When the pump goes on, the salt chlorine generator is activated. The chlorine level can be regulated by varying the control setting on the equipment or by increasing or decreasing the filter run. There are devices than can control the actual chlorine level. If you are interested in reducing the time and effort, a salt chlorine generator and pool automation system are a good means to accomplish this task. I hope that I have been helpful.

Alan, how about ozonators versus salt chlorine generators? I have been told ozonators kill a wider range of microorganisms than salt chlorinators. Also, a friend with a salt chlorinator adds muriatic acid regularly to kill algae. Your opinions, please.

Ron, 3/22/2003

Ozonators only work while ozone is actually being produced. There is no residual action. This means that ozone quickly leaves the water and that can allow for algae growth on the walls and in the corners. It needs a backup sanitizer to perform properly. Salt chlorinators are complete sanitizers and do not require a backup. It allows for easy control over the chlorine level and all water passing through the cell is super chlorinated. Having both salt chlorination and ozonation will allow for the salt chlorinator to be run at a lower production rate. This, in turn, will extend the life of the cell and reduce chemical usage. There is no sensation of salt in the water and little of the odor normally associated with chlorine. The addition of muriatic acid has nothing do with algae. It is being added to lower the pH of the water. I hope that I have been helpful.

I know that salt is added to the pool water and it is converted to chlorine, as it passes through a cell. Does that mean that the pool is now a salt water pool? Can you taste the salt? I like the idea of the product, but I don't like salt water swimming. Can you supply any details? Thanks.

Salt is added to the pool water and I believe that a typical addition would be 20-25 pounds per 1,000 gallons of pool water. That is far from the salt level of ocean water (about one-fourteenth) and it is not nearly enough to taste. From my own experience, there is no sensation of salt water. Not in feel or taste. I hope that I have been helpful.

I have a vinyl inground pool and am considering getting a salt chlorinator. I have been told that it will help maintain the appearance of the liner. Is someone pulling my chain? How can salt do that? Please explain.

No one is pulling your chain! It has nothing to do with the salt and everything to do with the consistency of the salt chlorinator. Salt chlorinating systems are controllable and avoid big fluctuations of the chlorine level. It is the presence of high chlorine levels that can cause your liner to fade. Maintaining a steady 1-3 PPM chlorine level is good for the pool sanitation and safer for the liner. Manual addition of chlorine can cause upward spikes in the chlorine level, resulting in the potential to cause fading. Refer to the page on "Vinyl Pool Liner Problems." I hope I cleared things up.