|
"Salt Chlorine Generators for Pools"
Eliminates the negative aspects of chlorine usage and storage.
The Pool & Spa Informational Website
askalanaquestion.com |
The Better Way To Do Chlorine
|
Scroll down to browse
through some archived SWIMMING POOL questions and answers.
Please access the Pool Problems Page and other links, at the top of
every page, for additional information.
|
Salt
Chlorine Generators, also referred to as Salt Chlorinators, Saltwater
Chlorinators or Salt Chlorinating Systems are actually miniaturized chlorine manufacturing plants: the
same technology is utilized. The devices are plumbed in-line and work by
electrolytically converting salt, in the pool water, into chlorine as it passes
over specially coated titanium electrode plates. Salt must be added to the pool prior
to start up, as directed. Thereafter, salt need only be added
occasionally, to replace that lost due to splash out, pump outs or
backwashing. The device generates Free Chlorine and destroys
odorous and irritating chloramines, as the water passes through the cell.
Chlorine production is controllable by a setting and the equipment operates in
conjunction with the timer controlling the filter. Properly used,
there is much less sensation of chlorine being present. The other water
analysis parameters must be maintained, as with any chlorine-maintained pool. It certainly is
easy-to-use and convenient and lends itself to pool automation.
Clicking
on the underlined and highlighted
"keywords" or "catch phrases," in the archived answers will
give you access to additional information on that topic or product.
Please refer to the Glossary, if
there are terms or phrases that require explanation. For an alphabetized listing
of the entire contents of the website, use the
Table of Contents link, on top of
every page.
 |
"Salt Chlorinating
Systems"
PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT |
 |
| Click Below For Additional Product Information |

|
More information about Salt Chlorine
Generators can be accessed by using the above links.
Information, about each particular manufacturer's product, is
available, along with a link to their website.
|
►
Trying To
Decide?
Dear
Alan: We are considering a salt water chlorinator. Could you answer
a few questions. Is this a reliable pool water sanitizing
method? Is it easy to use? Will it save money?
Do you favor a particular brand? Are there any negatives?
Thank you for the help.
M &
L, Jupiter, FL, 12/4/2007
A
saltwater chlorinator
is as a reliable a sanitizing method as any other form of chlorine.
The
big difference is that it avoids or reduces a lot of the chemicals and makes the overall
pool water chemistry easier to maintain. You'll find that there is
less handling and storing of chemicals. So far as the economics are
concerned, I really don't have all the information necessary to make that
determination. However, I would suspect that it will be quite favorable over
time. But the convenience factor is significant and almost without comparison.
A salt water chlorinator is one of those products that can be controlled by a
pool automation system: another convenience plus! My
long-term, personal experience with the product was very satisfactory and I know
that the product category has been
improved considerably over the years. The quality units incorporate some of the best technology and have
cells that should provide extended service. I hope that I have been helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 12/4/2007
►
Safety Concerns?
We are planning to put in a pool and are thinking
of using a Salt Water Chlorinator. Can you tell me what you know about the
differences between the salt system versus chlorine? Is one safer than the
other for small children? You know how they sometimes swallow water, get it in
their eyes and have sensitive skin. Thanks.
Ali H., Edmond, OK, 4/8/2006
With a
salt chlorine generator, there are no
chlorine products to store or handle an
d no chlorine products to leave exposed
to children. In either case, the
pools will be maintained on chlorine. With a salt chlorinator, the
chlorine level is
controlled by a setting on a dial, avoiding uncomfortably high levels that might
exist, when chlorine products are manually added.
Chloramines are an irritating and odorous form of combined chlorine and are a
problem in most chlorine pools. However, with a salt chlorinator, all of
the chloramines are destroyed, as the water passes through the cell. Your
overall pool maintenance will be simplified and fewer chemicals will be
required. Everything about this type of product is kid friendly. You
can pretty much say goodbye to "red eyes." For more information on the
AutoPilot line of salt chlorine generators go to:
www.autopilot.com I hope that I have been of assistance.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 4/8/2006
►
Above Ground Pool
Usage/Timer?
My brother has a saltwater
chlorinator on his inground pool. Can this type of equipment be used in an
above ground pool? Pool size is about 10,000 gallons. Any idea about cost?
Can I use a timer? Thanks.
Joel, 7/9/2004
Saltwater chlorinators can be used with all types of pools. Smaller units
or units especia
lly designed
for above ground pools are available. Two ChlorEase above ground
models are available. Units
intended for above ground
use are generally smaller and less expense, than those intended for the larger
inground pools.
It is not recommended
that you use it with the same timer as the pool pump. The timer may not be able
to handle the current load of both the ChlorEase unit and the pump. If you
want, you can use a separate timer for the ChlorEase unit and run it for an
amount of time suitable for the chlorine requirements of your pool.
Every pool will be different depending on size, time of year, type of usage,
exposure and other factors. For more information on an
above ground
saltwater chlorinator, go to:
www.smartpool.com
I hope that this information will prove helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 7/9/2004
►
Salt Chlorine Generator And Silver
Ionizing?
I am concerned about using a salt water pool and an anti-microbial cartridge
filter that contains silver. I am sacred that the addition chlorine and the
electrolysis will cause the silver to leach out of the filters and precipitate.
Or it could possibly form suspended particle and make the water very cloudy. Is
the any information available that would alleviate my concerns?
Kyle E., 9/6/2009
I don't think electrolysis is an issue. Salt chlorine
generators are routinely used with mineral sanitizers that contain silver. The
release of the silver is very low and staining and precipitation are not
expected. King Technology offers a
hybrid salt chlorine
generator/mineral sanitizer unit that combines the
properties of both technologies. For more information go to:
www.kingtechnology.com
I hope that this information is helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 9/7/2009
►
Rising Salt Level?
I recently bought a Tracer PockeTester, from your website. I am quite
satisfied, with the convenience and reliability of the tester, which I use to
monitor the salt levels in the pools, on my service route, that have a salt
chlorinator. While I like the convenience of a salt chlorine generator, I
never got around to putting one on my pool, in the 3 years since it was built.
I use a combination of a trichlor feeder and lithium shock. For no other
reason, other than curiosity, I tested the tap water and found a salt level or
600 PPM. That is not uncommon or unexpected in this area. I then
tested the pool water and found a salt level of 2000 PPM. That came as a
major surprise, since I have never adding any salt. Is there an
explanation?
Stephen S., 6/30/2010
Evaporation!!!! Finding high levels of salt or
TDS is nothing new and affects most pools, that are a few years old.
Assuming that you have a typical inground pool, you can lose 2-inches of water a
week. Possibly more, in the summer, in a hot dry location. That
2-inch loss represents 2-3% of the water volume, depending on the presence and
size of the hopper area. Even allowing for rainfall to replenish 1/2 of
the lose, you are still adding about 10 PPM of salt, every time, you top off the
pool, with the water containing 600 PPM of salt. 10 PPM a week, for 3
years, and you can easily reach 2,000 PPM of salt: almost as much as some
pools with salt chlorine generators. Even pools without a salt
chlorine generators present, can have significant levels of salt and TDS.
Relentlessly, evaporation causes salt and TDS level to rise. Pump outs, splash outs and
backwashing will slow the rate of increase, However, no matter what the
salt level will rise substantially, over time, when you are dealing with water
than contains 600 PPM of salt. If you were to use liquid chlorine the rate
of salt increase would be even higher. Measure your own average weekly
evaporational water loss and calculate the % lost. Multiply this by the
PPM of salt content of the new water and you have the weekly rise in salt.
You don't have to have a
salt
chlorine generator to end up with
salt in the pool. The levels are not enough to taste, so it goes by
unnoticed, so long as the overall water chemistry is good. If the pool did
have the salt chlorine generator, with water containing the appropriate amount
of salt, the levels would rise even more. When the salt level gets too
high, water should be replaced. Thank you for writing an for encouraging
me to put it to the numbers test.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
7/1/2010
►
Concern About High
TDS?
I apologize for forgetting to ask you this in the first email, but I do have one
more question for you regarding saltwater chlorinators. It has to do with TDS
(Total Dissolved Solids). The N.S.P.I standards for TDS are ideal: 1000-2000 ppm,
and maximum: 3000 ppm. Since, for a saltwater chlorinator, you need at least
2500 ppm of salt alone, how does that square with the N.S.P.I standards? What kind
of problems can occur if your TDS are too high? Thanks.
Richard, 4/7/2004
Good question.
The TDS standard does seem at odds with the requirements of a salt chlorinator.
The standard is a guide and is based on the TDS being composed of various
calcium and sodium carbonates, bicarbonates, chlorides, sulfates, cyanurates and
other minerals. Some of these salts have limited solubility, especially at
higher pH and TA. In order to avoid cloudy water and scaling, the TDS is
recommended to be capped at 3000 PPM. TDS readings are usually expressed
as PPM of sodium chloride, even though the dissolved salts are not sodium
chloride exclusively. Being that sodium chloride is quite soluble, the
addition of 2500 PPM or more should not present a problem, even in areas with relatively
high TDS. It certainly presents less of a problem than the addition of
various chlorine compounds over time. High TDS can be a problem, when a
major portion is due to calcium as opposed to sodium salts.
Saltwater
chlorinators are very popular in high TDS areas such as Arizona.
I would not expect any problems, except with some extraordinary poor quality
water. I hope that I have cleared things up.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 4/7/2004
►
Starting Up: Stabilizer & Chlorine?
I just ordered a waterproof
Tracer PockeTester, Salt, TDS & pH, from
your website, and am filling and starting up my new saltwater spa for the first
time. In the directions for the chlorine generator, it says I need to not
only add sufficient salt, but also stabilizer and chlorine. Is this really
necessary? I hope to get the tester soon. Thanks. Have a good Thanksgiving.
Zack L., 1122/2007
The
directions make complete sense. The
addition of the chlorine stabilizer will help the chlorine last longer, by
protecting it from the Sun's UV rays. You're starting off without any
chlorine. Adding some will help prevent algae growth and make it easier
for your
salt
chlorine generator to maintain the
right level. A level of 1-3 PPM, of
free chlorine, would be ideal. In short, it avoids having to play
catch up. Enjoy the holiday and the pool. Thank you for the order.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 11/23/2007
►
Must I Use Stabilizer?
My question, if the main purpose of cyanuric acid is to stabilize chlorine.
why do I need to add it if I have a salt water pool that is constantly
adding chlorine thru out the day? From what I have read, cyanuric acid
is one of the things that irritates people, especially my 5 year old
daughter. I switched to a salt water pool to take the chlorine jug out
of the pool guy's hand, so my blond haired daughter's hair doesn't turn
green. So why do I need cyanuric acid, if chlorine is being introduced
to the pool every day? Thank-You.
Tim in S Florida, 1/29/2008
You might
be able to get away without adding stabilizer. In the summer, your salt
chlorine might be hard pressed to supply the pool's chlorine needs.
However, there is a price to not adding stabilizer. Because you are
producing more chlorine, the salt cell will not last as long. The more
chlorine you produce, the more the pH will require downward adjustment with
acid. Most issues, with cyanuric acid, involve the high levels,
that result from regular use of stabilizer chlorine. It can reach 200 PPM
and higher, if not monitored. In your case, you merely need to do a one
time addition of 40 PPM. If you have a heater, the green hair is more
likely due to copper, from the use of copper algaecides or from corrosion of the
copper heater core, if present. Add some metal treatment and see if that
helps eliminate the problem. The stabilizer choice is yours.
There is another choice here: add an
ozone generator.
Because it also provides oxidation, it will allow you to set the
salt
chlorine generator, at a lower setting,
extending the life of the salt cell and making pH control easier. It is an
ideal combination, especially when both units are full sized for the pool.
I hope that this information proves helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 1/30/2008
►
Initial Pool Startup?
Hi Alan. Your site has been
MORE THAN HELPFUL to me in the past few weeks! THANKS YOU SO MUCH for all of
your helpful advice. We are having a salt chlorinator system installed on our
25,000 gallon pool in two days and I am so excited! I have learned so much from
your site, that I feel confident in maintaining the salt system with virtually
little effort. My concern is in the establishment of the system. The pool
professional we chose does not know a lot about salt systems, but he says he is
learning. My biggest question is in initial startup - how much salt to add and
what else needs to be done for the initial startup? Once again, THANK YOU
for hosting your site and answering all these questions. I will recommend you
to all my friends with pools. Sincerely.
Susan B., Temple, TX,
4/14/2005
Thank you for
the kind comments about the website. I can't provide an exact figure on
the salt requirement, as it does vary according to the
salt chlorine generator
manufacturer. You should check the instruction manual to be sure. It
will require something in the neighborhood of 25 pounds per 1,000 gallons of
water. Use non-ionized food grade or water softener grades of salt.
Do not use rock salt or industrial grades! It is important to have it
within a certain range, so make sure that you use the correct dosage and pool
volume. Test the level to be sure. Thereafter, you need to add more
salt to replace that lost through pump outs, splash outs and backwashing.
Chlorine stabilizer levels of 40-80 PPM are acceptable. The only other
thing that I suggest is the addition of a dose of a metal treatment. This
can help avoid discoloration, if metal are present and, at the very least, will
help keep the cell clean. Keep tabs on the pH, as it can tend to rise.
This is basically a chlorine pool without
chlorine to handle or store.
Good luck and I'm sure that you'll enjoy the product and appreciate the
difference it will make. Enjoy the season.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 4/15/2005
|
Visit The
Test Equipment Store, for all your needs. |
►
Pool Staining?
We have a 16 x 32 inground
pool with a "SALT" system. We have had to add salt in November and December
and on both occasions once the salt was dispensed it has left a discolored
stain in the area where the salt was poured. The color is not black but a
light brown. The company where we purchased the pool has been of minimal
help. If you have the slightest bit of information please let us know as
this pool is only 5 months old and I am trying to save the liner.
Thanks.
Nameless, 12/31/2003
The staining
that you are describing is not something normal or inevitable.
There are several possibilities: the salt was
of industrial quality and contained trace metals such as iron, the pool water
contained low levels of iron and, perhaps, the addition
of the salt and the resultant high TDS caused the iron to precipitate or the
salt was not distributed around the pool and/or was allowed to remain in
prolonged contact, without the benefit of being stirred.
This type of
staining could have been caused by the prussiate of soda in the salt.
This is an anti caking agent, present in some grades of rock salt.
In either case, I would try adding a dose of a metal treatment to the pool and
try to remove the stains (most likely iron) by applying acid. To do this
take a white sock with 1/2 pound of pH decreaser powder and drop it onto the
stained area. Leave it in place for a few minutes and slowly move around
with the vacuum pool. Hopefully the acid will dissolve the stains.
You can also try a similar technique using oxalic acid. Periodic addition
of a dose of mineral treatment will help prevent staining and, in addition, help
keep the
salt chlorinator plates free of
scale deposits. I hope that this information will prove helpful.
Best wishes for the new year!
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 12/31/2003
Editors Note: not all grades of salt
contain prussiate of soda (iron containing anti-caking compound).
It may be present in rock salt.
While staining or discoloration problems aren't inevitable, avoiding salt containing the additive will
help reduce the possibility. In any
event, always spread the salt around the pool perimeter, keep the filter
running, engage the main drain, use the pool vacuum to promote better bottom
circulation and use the pool brush to stir things up. If a dose
of a quality metal treatment is added a few hours prior to the salt addition,
the likelihood of the problem should be lessened and will afford the additional
benefit of helping to keep the plates scale-free.
►
Salt Level Dropped
Suddenly?
We have a mineral/salt unit
using salt. The mineral reading was 2400 and then the next day the mineral
reading fell to 0. We took the unit off and cleaned it in a diluted muriatic
acid bath. Then we reinstalled the cell but it is still 0. Any ideas?
Mike, 3/27/2005
This mineral
reading is just the PPM of salt. It cannot go from 2400 PPM to 0 PPM
overnight. Cleaning the cell plays no role in being able to test the salt
level. Something is wrong with whatever you are using to test for salt.
I suggest that you replace the tester, as it is not functioning properly.
There are many, convenient ways to test for salt. The
salt chlorine generator
works best when a proper salt level is maintained. Always use a
non-iodized food or water softener grade of salt. Never use rock salt or
salt containing yellow prussiate. I hope that I have been of assistance.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 3/27/2005
|
 |
A Top Seller!
The
PockeTester for Salt, TDS & Temperature.
Easy-to-use!!! |
|
Click the image for product and ordering information. |
►
Losing Salt?
I have a salt system and I am
adding 50 lbs of salt a week to maintain a 3200-3500 level. I have done a
bucket test and no leak is detected, plus my water bills are low. My pool
is an 8500 gallon pool. What may be the problem? Thank you.
Losing It, 5/28/2005
If the facts in
your letter are correct, there are only two possibilities. #1. The
method used to measure the salt level is incorrect and/or unreliable. #2.
You have a leak and are losing something on the order of 1500-2000 gallons of
water weekly. There are no other possibilities that will account for the
need to replenish the salt weekly. The salt recycles itself and the only
way to lose salt is by pump out, backwashing or overflow. You should only
be requiring about 50 pounds a year, more or less, depending upon your pool
equipment and circumstances. Perhaps, heavy rainfall is disguising the
leak, but it is there! You need to locate the leak or
account for the salt loss. It could be in a pipe, seam, drain, return fitting,
skimmer, cutout, etc. You might want to give
FIX A
LEAK a try. If it works, it will save you a lot of time and expense.
Visit them at
www.fixaleak.com
Otherwise, you might consider calling in a
leak detection
professional. For more information and for a directory of local pool leak
experts, go to:
www.poolleak.info I hope that this information will you understand the problem and help you solve
the riddle.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 5/29/2005
►
The Effects Of Lots Of Rain?
I live in the Houston, Texas
area with a 20,000 gallon in ground pool. We are considering changing to salt
chlorination, but have frequent heavy rainfalls that require dumping several
inches of water out of the pool into the storm drain system to restore the pool
level. We can get 4-6 inches of rain in an hour once or twice a year, and get 3
inches or more an hour once a month. Would having to drain this much water out
of the pool this frequently make it difficult to maintain the salt level
required for salt chlorination? How does one test the salt concentration after
a heavy rainfall and draining? Thanks!
Robert E., Houston, Texas, 5/23/2007
You will
have to make allowances, if you pump water to waste, as that will lower the
salt concentration. Each manufacturer has a given range for optimum
performance. Some units have low salt indicators. Testing salt is easy
with a
PockeTester Salt Tester. Just dip it in the water.
Salt
chlorine generators are a big step forward from ordinary
chlorine. I hope this information proves helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 5/23/2007
►
The Right Kind Of
Salt?
We are in the process of
considering an in ground pool. Our sales person has told us about the salt water
generators. At this point I do not know what kind or brand they recommend.
Some of the answers you have given says not to use rock salt and that is what
she said was used. I sure don't want to start out using the wrong kind.
Does she not know what she is talking about? When you refer to food grade are
you referring to table salt? And am I reading you correctly that it is 20-25 lbs
of salt to 1,000 gallons of water? Our pool will be 16 by 30. That sounds
like a lot of salt to me. Is there an therapeutic sides to using the salt
water system? We're excited about getting started but want to cover all
our basis before we make a decision. Thanks for your help.
Sandra H., 4/24/2005
My
recommendation not to use "rock salt" is based on the fact that this material
can contain yellow prussiate of soda, which is added as an anti-caking agent.
You're right it does take a lot of salt, but not enough to taste. Ocean
water is about 17 times saltier. Given the large quantity, you do not want
to add salt with yellow prussiate of soda because that can cause iron staining
to occur. To make sure that staining
does not occur, it is suggested that non-iodized food grade or a water softener
grade be used. The
small additional cost can save you lots of problems, with your
salt chlorine generator.
You were wise to check into this matter and try to get off on the right foot.
Good luck with the pool. I hope that I have helped in the decision making.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 4/24/2005
One
Of The Products Featured In The Website Stores
 |
Adhesive Borders
Alarms, Pool & Yard
Aquatic Access Lifts
Aquatic Bike & Treadmill
Aquatic Fitness
Aquatic Training
Cartridge Cleaner
Circulation Booster
Clarifiers, Pool & Spa
ColorQ
Digital Testers
Cracks, Structural Repairs
Deck Sweepers
Electronic Test
Labs
Escape Ramp, Animal
Epoxy Coatings
Great, Must-Have Gadget
Leak Sealer
Magnetic Conditioner
Metals Removal
Misting Systems,
Cooling
Paint, Hybrid-Epoxy |
|
Pool Auto-Leveler
Pool Decals
Pre-Filters, Well Water
Robotic Pool
Cleaners
Salt Chlorinator, AGP
Salt
Testers
Sealer for Leaks
Solar Heaters
Spa Cover Spray Protectant
Spa Cover Lifter
Spa-Side Accessories
Stain Treatments
Surface Skimmers
Skimmer Escape Cover
Test
Strips, Pool & Spa
Water Testing
Supplies
Underwater Lights
Vacuums, Automatic
Vacuums, Hand-Held
Water Brooms |
 |
Click The Image For More
Product & Ordering Information. |
|
► Really Expensive
Salt?
I been reading up on salt
chlorinators and have purchased a mineral/salt unit. They suggest using their
proprietary product as the salt. This is very expensive at approximately $30 for
a 30 lb bag. They suggest one bag for every 1000 gallons. Do you know
anything about this system and do you know if I can use other salt instead?
Thanks.
M. Fox, 5/11/2005
All
salt chlorine generators
work on the principle of electrolytically breaking down salt (sodium chloride)
into chlorine and other byproducts. All salt chlorine generators are not the
same, but so far as I know all, without exception, require that a salt
concentration within certain ranges be maintained. Again, so far as I know, all
salt chlorine generators can utilize either non-iodized food grade salt or water
softener grade salt. Salt containing yellow prussiate of soda or rock salt
should not be used, because of the presence of undesirable materials.
The modest price of non-iodized food grade or
water softener grades of salt is one of the factors that make ownership of a
salt chlorine generator attractive and economical.
While different water supplies
might require additional additives, this is best addressed based on a water
analysis and the pool's actual needs. I hope that I have been helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 5/11/2005
►
Too Much Salt?
I have soft touch,
AutoPilot
salt system and I have a reading of 4800 ppm. I would like to know what a
need to lower the salt to 3000 ppm? My pool is 11,144 Gallons. Your
help is greatly appreciated. Regards.
Omar G, 5/3/2005
AutoPilot Systems
do not require a high salt cutoff or warning and can operate satisfactorily at levels up to 35,000 ppm!
AutoPilot cells,
unlike the others, are not affected by high salt levels. Systems that have
a high salt protection cannot handle the high salt and are probably the units
that will damage the cell, under these conditions. The reason for protection is
that the transformer runs hot with higher salt (greater conductivity) levels.
Unless you are sure that you added too much salt, I suggest that you
verify that the salt level is where you think it is.
Your concern about excessively high salt levels
greater than 6,000 PPM, should be directed towards metallic fixtures such as handrails, ladders, light rings, or heat
exchangers. Higher salt levels will approach the taste threshold of about
3,500 PPM. To lower the level to 3,000 PPM, you need to pump out
about 3,200 gallons of water or drop the level to about 6,966 gallons, taking
care not to pump out too much water at a time, as this might cause problems in
high water table situations. To avoid the possibility of pools
popping up or vinyl liners floating, it may be safest to pump out the water in
smaller increments. In either
case, replace the pumped out water with fresh water.
However, if the taste is not objectionable, the salt level can be left at its
current level. It should dissipate, as time goes by, without any damage to
equipment. I hope that I have been helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 5/4/2005
Editors Note: some input from AutoPilot Systems was included, in order to
provide a more comprehensive answer.
►
Taste And Feel?
I have looked through your site, but
couldn't find an answer to the question of what to expect with a salt
chlorinator regarding water taste and feel. Will the water be salty at
all? Thanks.
Russell F., 4/4/2006
It is there, but
not easy to find. You will not be able to test the salt. It
will only be about 1/15th that of ocean water. Most people agree that the
feel of the water is better and more to their liking. If you don't
tell them - they won't know why the water looks, feels and smells better!!!
I hope that this is what you were looking to hear.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 4/4/2006
►
Weekly Salt
Additions?
I have a salt water pool. I
read somewhere suggesting that I could use "regular mill salt" in substitute of
a weekly renewal salt product. What is "Regular Mill Salt"? Is this the same
as Water Softener Salt pellets? If not, where can I buy this "Regular Mill
Salt"? Thanks.
Meng T., 4/29/2005
I am not
familiar with the term "regular mill salt."
However, so far as I know you can use non-ionized
food grade or water softener grades of salt with all
salt chlorine generators.
Just do not use rock salt or salt with yellow prussiate of soda.
The salt concentration should
be maintained within the recommended limits, by the addition of salt, on as
needed basis and as determined by the result of a
salt test.
Salt can only be lost through overflows, splash outs and pump outs. It
does not get lost through evaporation and it is recycled after being converted
into chlorine. Weekly additions of
salt, especially without testing, can lead to having too high a concentration
and that can damage the salt cell. I suggest that you test the level at
the start of the season and occasionally, thereafter, and add salt to adjust the
level to within the recommended range.
I hope that I have been helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 4/29/2005
►
Adding The Salt?
Is there a special grade of
salt for use with a salt chlorine generator? I know that I will have to
add quite a bit and am wondering if it can be added all at once? Thanks
for the information.
Lenny R., Sharon, MA,
7/23/2004
It is best to
use a non-iodized food grade or water softener grade of salt.
Avoid using "rock salt" or technical grades, as
these may contain unwanted minerals or additives, such as yellow prussiate of
soda (anti-caking agent). While you can add the salt all at once, you should disperse it
around the pool perimeter. Keep the filter operating, until it is all
dissolved. If there is a main drain, split the water intake with the
skimmers. If there is no main drain, use the pool vacuum, as a temporary
main drain. Use the pool brush, periodically, to stir up the bottom.
Try and avoid allowing the salt sit in one small area. After everything is
dissolved, adjust the overall water chemistry. Periodically, test the salt
level, as replacement amounts might be necessary to make up for losses due to
backwashing, pump outs and splash outs. I hope that the information proves
helpful. Enjoy the season.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 7/24/2004
►
Effect Of Low Water Temperature?
We have an AutoPilot salt
chlorination system. We have recently opened the pool for the summer and
the local temperatures have been between 40°F at night and 80°F
in the day. The pool water temperature is staying between 58°F and 67°F. The water looks fine, but when tested, no chlorine is registering
on the test strips. The chlorinator reading on the Pool Pilot reads at
times from 30% to 74%. Do we need to do anything to the pool to insure we
have adequate chlorine in the water. How does water temperature affect the
production of chlorine in a saltwater system?
H.B., 4/18/2007
The
AutoPilot
as an Automatic Temperature Compensation feature
that will regulate the output setting of the Digital based upon water
temperature changes. When water temperatures decrease, the output % will
decrease, to the point that at 55°F or colder, it will show 1% and will
not allow you to raise it any higher, in order to protect the cell. As
temperatures warm up, the output % will then increase to maintain the chlorine
demand of a warmer pool. The chlorine lasts longer with cooler weather,
therefore the automatic temperature compensator adjustment is down.
Most other systems rely on the homeowner to adjust the output as the temperature
fluctuates and tends to over-chlorinate when it gets cold. This is actually
good for those systems, as it will also shut down when it falls below 60°F. You have to be careful that the chlorine level is not too excessive as
it will cause damage to equipment. If you add some chlorine or shock
manually, in order to control algae, try and keep the level no higher that 1-3
PPM, until the water starts to warm up. I hope that I have been helpful
and enjoy the season.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
4/18/2007
►
Hard Pool Water Choice?
I'm having an in-ground pool
built in Cyprus. It measures 8 x 4 x 1.5 metres, approx 11000 gallons.
Somebody has suggested a salt water chlorinator and is pushing to sell one that
requires 7000 PPM of salt and is not self-cleaning. However, the water is
very hard and someone else has suggested an in line brominator. Which
system would be best. The house in Cyprus is a vacation home and I won't
be there all the time, as I reside in the UK. There are pool maintenance firms
who manually maintain pools. I would appreciate your advice. Kind
regards.
Kevin R., UK, 1/28/2005
A salt chlorine generator that requires 4000 -
7000 ppm of salt and is not self cleaning, is at a distinct disadvantage in very
hard water situations.
Salt chlorine
generator systems are available that typically require 2500 - 3500 ppm of salt,
are self cleaning and use less power.
Disadvantages of the high salt levels include being closer to the taste
threshold, higher replenishment costs and higher potential for corrosion. Non
self-cleaning cells will require periodic manual removal of the cell, for
cleaning purposes, and are less suited for pool automation. An in line
brominator will introduce byproducts, that will build up over time, and must be
considered a potential problem in very hard water situations. Bromine is
more costly to start with and cannot be protected from degradation by the Sun's
UV rays. My choice would be a
salt chlorine generator. I hope that I have helpful with the
decision making.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 1/28/2005
►
Above-Ground
Concerns?
We recently purchased an above
ground pool late last summer and are thinking of switching over to a salt
generator before this summer season. We asked our pool dealer where we
bought the pool and they said that salt generators will bleach the liners and
rust the metal. They also stated that in the hot summer months (we live in TX),
that the salt generators will not be able to produce chlorine fast enough to
keep up with the algae production. Is this true?
Brian L., 2/21/2006
Salt chlorine
generators are far less likely to
bleach a liner, than are chlorine-based chemicals, because the chlorine is
produced at a lower, steady and more consistent rate. In addition, there
is no longer direct contact between the liner and a slow dissolving chlorine.
The salt is in the water and contained within the liner. The only metal
subject to corrosion will occur, if two dissimilar metals are in immediate
proximity to one another. If the salt chlorine generator is properly
sized, it should meet the needs of the pool. During periods of high temps
and heavy bather use, it may be necessary to add a quick-dissolving chlorine to
supplement the production. Under these same conditions, it can be a real
challenge to keep a steady, comfortable level with conventional chlorine.
Salt chlorine generators are commonly used with above ground pool.
Using a
FROG Mineral Sanitizer,
in addition to a salt chlorine generator, will provide persistent sanitation,
allowing the need to less chlorine to be produced and making the control of the
pH easier. The
ChlorEase
unit is especially designed for above ground pools up to 18,000 gallons. I
hope that I have been helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 2/22/2006
►
Chlorine Control?
I installed the
ChlorEase
yesterday in a 13x25 x48", above
ground pool. What a snap! How does the generator "know" how much water
to supply chlorine to? In other words, if a 10,000 gal and 20,000 gal pool
both have the same amount of NaCl in ppm, why doesn't the 10,000 gal pool end up
with twice as much chlorine in the water?
Do you recommend any type of test
strips or kits in a NaCl pool? Thanks.
Herb H., Lake Lotawana, MO,
5/15/2006
It doesn't!
That's what water testing is for. There is no way to avoid it. How much
chlorine a pool requires is not just based on pool size, but on weather
conditions and bather usage. As the season changes, so will the chlorine
requirements, but a salt chlorine generator makes it so much easier.
Two bathers in a pool, require just about as much chlorine, for treatment of
their wastes, in a 10,000 gallon pool, as in a 20,000 gallon pool. If the free
chlorine level gets too high, you may have to unplug the
ChlorEase unit or set it on a separate timer.
Glad the installation went easily. I recommend The
LaMotte Insta-Test strips, as they
provide complete chlorine information, easily and reliably. The question
was a good one, as I hope the season will be.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 5/15/2006
►
Replacement
Additives?
We have a large inground vinyl
liner pool - about 44,000 gallons. When it was built we installed a salt
chlorinator unit. We run the pump 24/7 and also have an inground cleaning
system which we run daily. The water is great until it rains and our minerals
get out of whack. However, we have been unhappy with the costs associated with
adding special proprietary chemicals every time it rains due to a low mineral
count. Could we just use salt like you have described for other units? Is it
possible something is wrong with the cell in the unit?
Kimberley F., 1/12/2005
Your system is
a
salt chlorine generator,
similar in action to many others on the market, including the inground models on
this website. One product is merely a propriety salt mixture. You can use
non-iodized, food grade or water softener grade salt and maintain it at the PPM level
required by your equipment. Salt is usually only added once or, as needed, to
replace that lost by backwashing, pump outs and splash outs. The other product
is a proprietary mixture that claims to be useful for many purposes.
The bottom line is that if you operate the system
properly and maintain a free chlorine level of 1-3 PPM, about all you should
have to do is control the pH and TA.
If your water is hard or contains metals, adding a calcium or metal treatment
monthly, will help keep the cells and underwater water surfaces free of scale or
stains. After periods of heavy rainfall, the chlorine level may bottom out.
Adding a dose of shock and/or turning up the dial will restore the proper level,
in most instances. If the unit is producing adequate chlorine, there would
appear to be nothing wrong with it. I hope that this information proves
helpful and a savings to you. Please tell your friends about the website.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 1/12/2005
►
A Salt Chlorinator
And An Ozonator?
A local company is trying to
talk me into adding an ozonator to my pool, which already has a salt
chlorinator. Is this overkill? Is there any sense to doing this?
Thanks for any input that you can share.
Robert G., 2/1/2005
Overkill?
I used to think so, but now I don't this so. A
salt chlorinator is
a complete sanitizing system. By contrast, an
ozonator needs a backup
sanitizer, such as chlorine, bromine, an ionizer or a
mineral sanitizer.
Therefore, if you have an ozonator, adding a salt chlorinator can make a lot of
sense. If you have a salt chlorinator, adding an ozonator will allow you
to lower the settings and extend the life of the cell. This, in turn, will
further reduce the overall chemical presence. Definitely a case of more
being better. I hope that I have been helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 2/1/2005
►
While We're Away?
Would a Salt Water Generator
be advisable for use in a fiberglass pool? Also, as we are gone for 5 months a
year, what problems would this present with the maintenance of the system? Do
all SW generators need to be acid washed? We plan to cover the (8.5x18x5ft
deep) pool with a 4" thick spa cover, and to keep the pool at approx. 87-90
degrees. Would this effect the ability to use the SW generator effectively?
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge.
Patty in Tucson, AZ,
10/17/2004
There's no
reason that a
saltwater chlorinator shouldn't be used with
a fiberglass pool. Many salt chlorine generators have self cleaning cells,
which I assume relates to the "acid washing" that you are referring to.
You should be able to select a low setting and have it controlled by a timer.
Once the organic matter in the pool is destroyed, very little chlorine will be required
to maintain the pool. I suggest that you have someone periodically check the
water level, chlorine and pH levels. Otherwise, salt chlorinator operation
is highly automated.
Have you given any thought to covering the pool with an
automatic pool safety cover?
It is much safer than what you are proposing, as this type of cover can support
the weight of a person. It can be retracted at the press of a button, act
as a solar cover, reduce evaporation, reduce chemical usage and help keep out
debris. I hope that I have been helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 10/18/2004
►
Yellow Pool Staining?
I have a in-ground vinyl pool
with a salt chlorine generator I installed at the beginning of the summer. The
water has been clear all season but I have now (after two weeks of not using the
pool) noticed a yellowish staining in the steps and around the rim (bathtub ring
and below the waterline). It does not scrub off so I do not think it is algae. I
have kept the chlorine levels up so I would doubt algae could form. This must be
some kind of scaling...How do you get rid of the stain? I bought some Scale
Remover but after looking thru the salt generator owners manual, it made
reference to a "saturation index" and mentioned that anything over .2 could
cause stains. I did some calculations and determined my Saturation Index to be 0.270. What
would try to adjust first? My Alkalinity is 119, my pH is 7.5, my Calcium is 250
and stabilizer is at 60. My first thought is to take the Alkalinity down a notch
and use a metal remove to get the Calcium lower; both of these adjustments
should take the Saturation Index down closer to 0.0 Any thoughts or advice?
Thanks.
Allan C., 10/10/2004
Scale consists of
calcium carbonate deposits and should not be yellowish in color. Your water
chemistry is only very slightly towards the scaling side, of the optimum range,
and should not be causing the problem. Adding a metal treatment or calcium
treatment will not lower the hardness: it will complex calcium and allow more
to remain in solution without problems. Lowering the pH and/or the TA will
lower the
Saturation Index. This
problem does not seem to have any direct link to the use of a
salt
chlorinator, as it is common in pools without salt chlorinators. The
stains and discolorations could be the result of iron or other metals.
That being the case, chlorine
will not work. Shut off the filter, put 1/2 pound of pH reducer in a white sock
and drop onto a stained area. Hopefully, as the acid dissolves the stains will
be removed. Afterwards, use a scrub brush to help expose the surface and repeat
as needed. If this works, but the area is too broad, lower the pH of the entire
pool to about 6.0. Once the stains have been removed, add a double-triple dose
of a quality metal treatment, prior to restoring the pH. Add at least 1 dose
for each 0.5 PM of metals and allow 8 hours to work. In any event, add at least
a double dose. Allow the water to recirculate for 6-8 hours after the metal
treatment has been added and before the pH is raised. I suggest that you have
the pool and tap water tested for iron, copper and manganese, as it may be
necessary to treat the water monthly or whenever new water is added. If this
does not work, try placing a few vitamin C tablets on the stain and let
dissolve. If this works, lower the pH to 6.5 and add a chlorine neutralizer to
discharge all chlorine present. Add a dose or either ascorbic or oxalic acids
and allow to circulate overnight. Use the amount recommended on the
package. Not all pool dealers carry these items. Do this only if the vitamin C
tablets worked! Depending upon the nature of the problem, additional product
may have to be added. Before raising the pH and chlorine level, add a double
dose of metal treatment and wait 6-8 hours. As you raise the pH and chlorine,
take notice of the water quality, as more metal treatment might be necessary.
Good luck.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 10/10/2004
You were
correct about metals in the pool: I just had the water tested again for copper
& iron and they are reporting the copper level to be 0.17 ppm which looks to be
off the chart high. I need to get my well water tested as it looks like I'm
putting in more metal at each top-off. Thanks so much for your help on this.
Allan C.,
10/11/2004
►
Unit For Above
Ground Pools?
I am
looking into saltwater chlorination for above ground pools and would like to
obtain more detailed information on the
ChlorEase Chlorinator. This item seems to be
a cost effective solution for an above ground pool. As a minimum, what
water capacity can this item handle? The pool I am interested in is a 16’ x 33’
x 52” and is about 20,000 gal. How do you install this item? It does
not appear to be inline with the filter pump. Does this item require
additional accessories or is it stand alone? Regards.
Ed W.,
4/6/2005
The
ChlorEase
unit, depending upon the model, requires no installation, other than attaching under the top rail. This
salt chlorine generator is designed for above ground pools, up to 18,000 gallons
in
water content. Your pool actually contains 17,150 gallons,
according to my calculations. It does not require connection to
a pump. It hangs below the top rail, allowing for water to flow through the
cell. All you need to do is plug it into a 110 volt, GFI protected outlet. It will
require that salt be added to the pool water. Other than that, it is maintained
like any other chlorine pool. I hope that the information will prove
helpful.
Sincerely. Alan
Schuster, 4/6/2005
►
Is Well Water A
Problem?
I am having a pool installed
this fall and wanting to go with the salt chlorinating system.
I talked to a pool guy that is giving me one bid for the upcoming pool and he
said that the cell would go out faster than normal because I am on well water
not city. Any comments. Thanks.
Cody C., 10/8/2008
If your well
is of potable water quality, it is doubtful that it can make any measurable
difference in the life of the cell. In either case, chemicals will be added to
the pool to adjust the water to the desired water chemistry. If your well water
contains high level of calcium and/or heavy metals, it should be treated
appropriately. The best way to treat a pool such as yours is with The
METALTRAP filter. Simply attach the METALTRAP to the garden
hose that you are using to fill the pool. It will remove iron, copper,
manganese, other heavy metals and fine particulates. By removing the heavy
metals, you virtually eliminate discoloration and staining issues. Use the
METALTRAP on all new water added and you'll avoid adding metallic ions that
might cause problems. Monthly doses of the
Liquid METALTRAP product will pick up
and lingering heavy
metals and will help keep the salt-cell cleaner. Ask him why it makes a difference, as I am eager to hear this!
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 10/8/2008
►
Worried About
Landscaping?
Will a salt water pool harm my
trees, plants and fescue grass? Thanks.
David M., 3/13/2005
It is never a
good idea to drain any kind of swimming pool onto landscaped area.
However, sometimes there is no practical choice. Normally the only water
drained is that from backwashing, pump out or winterizing and is done on an
occasional basis.
Salt chlorinators
require a few 1000 PPM of salt and this, generally, is well tolerated by the
landscaping, especially if the drainage is good. In areas, where drainage
is very poor and/or rainfall totals are very low, some effort might be made to
minimize and disperse the discharges. Potassium chloride has been used, in
place of sodium chloride, out of consideration for this problem. Thirteen
pounds of potassium chloride are required for every 10 pounds of sodium
chloride. No one has ever written to
me describing the effects of this concern and, therefore, I surmise that most
people should not expect to have a problem, if some precautions are taken.
I hope that I have been helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 3/14/2005
►
How Does Salt Become
Chlorine?
Could
you possibly explain how the compound sodium chloride is converted to
a Chlorine. I am interested in seeing how and why it occurs molecularly. I am
a pool repair person and have had the question raised, but have not been able
to give a complete answer. My thanks in advance,
Rick I., 4/15/2004
Sodium
chloride or common table salt is converted electrolytically, with the use of a
salt chlorinator system, into chlorine and sodium hydroxide. In order
for the salt chlorine generator to
function properly, there needs to be a salt concentration, in the pool water, of
approximately 2500-4000 PPM, depending upon the brand and/or model. The simplified chemical reaction is as follows:
2 NaCl +
4 H2O
=
2 NaOH + 2H2 + 2HClO
2 (sodium
chloride) + 4 (water)
=
2 (sodium hydroxide) + 2 (Hydrogen) + 2 (hypochlorous acid)
In a swimming
pool the chlorine forms hypochlorous acid (HClO), the active germicidal form of
chlorine. Electrical energy is required to initiate the oxidation-reduction
reaction, necessary to covert salt into hypochlorous acid. The
salt
chlorine generator provides the means to make this conversion. I hope that the information will prove helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 4/15/2004
►
Testing The Salt
Level Of Pool Water?
I have a service route and
come across quite a few salt chlorinator systems. My question is how important
is it to maintain the proper level of salt? How is it tested?
Thanks.
Rich D. Tucson, AZ, 6/21/2004
Very
important! Low salt levels can result in low chlorine production.
High salt levels can result in overproduction and shorten electrode life
expectancy. Testing is simple, as the there are a variety of testers and
test strips available. The newest and, perhaps, the simplest, is the
LaMotte TRACER PockeTester. Designed for the pool professional,
but inexpensive enough for the caring pool owner, the Tracer PockeTester
measures Sodium Chloride with a range from 0 to 9,999 ppm; TDS with a range from
0 to 9,999 ppm; Temperature from 32 to 149 F. The tester’s probe is dipped
into a sample of pool water and the results are ready in seconds. A
microprocessor allows for easy push button switching between TDS and Salt. I hope that the website has been
helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 6/21/2004
|
Visit The
Test Equipment Store, for all your needs. |
►
Mineral Sanitizer And Salt
Chlorinator?
I have a new pool is slowly being filled
with water right now. I have both systems the frog and salt. I am
having trouble deciding which one to use. The pool company that put the
pool in says the FROG system is better. My friends that have pools say
to go with salt. I just want to know which one will be easier to use.
And if I choose the salt will my water have a salt taste to it. Which
one do you recommend, and which one helps to make pool maintenance
easier. My pool is in Southern California. Thanks.
Michael
M., Upland, CA, 1/5/2007
Your pool will not
have a salty taste! Just the
Frog Mineral
Sanitizer
will not be enough. You will still need to add
chlorine to oxidize wastes. I would use the
salt chlorine generator as the
primary means of sanitizing and oxidizing. Use the FROG as a
backup and it will allow you to favor the low end of the recommended 1-3
PPM free chlorine range. Because you will be producing less chlorine,
the pH will be easier to control. The combination of the two will make
for better water quality and less maintenance. I hope that I
have been helpful. Enjoy the pool.
Sincerely. Alan
Schuster, 1/6/2007
►
Pool Pump Size
Considerations?
I am building a pool in Mexico
and am convinced that a salt-water chlorinator is the way to go, perhaps
combined with an ozonator. I have two questions: 1. Does salt-water
chlorination process have any corrosive or other detrimental effects on
equipment (such as the pool pumps) over time, and if so, is there anything that
can be done to minimize these effects? 2. I've received various
recommendations concerning the size of the filtering pump I should use, relative
to the size of the pipes (i.e. use 1/2 HP for 1.25" or 1.5" pipes), but I'm
wondering how this ties into the salt-water chlorination processing
requirements. My pool will hold roughly 8,000 gallons and I want to run the
pump as little as possible (for maximum energy conservation). If I use a larger
pump to reduce the number of hours it runs each day, how will this impact how
much chlorine is generated relative to the amount required? The bottom line is
that I want to make sure I have the appropriate balance between pump power, pipe
size and chlorine generation for optimum efficiency and lowest possible
maintenance. Any advice you can offer would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks again for providing such useful and accessible information.
C. B., Mexico, 2/18/2005
Salt chlorinating systems
do not normally present a corrosive situation, unless two dissimilar metals are
in immediate proximity to one another. Salt Chlorination has become so
popular today, that is extremely unlikely that you will experience problems,
using the products in current production. Too big a pump can reduce
chlorine production. There doesn't seem a need for you to exceed 1 HP,
with 1-1/2" pipe. Energy consumption comes down to watts times hours.
You should plan on operating the filter for 6-12 hours a day, depending upon
temperature, usage and other circumstances. Trying to lower the filtering
time, to a conservation-minded, short cycle, will, also, shorten the time that
chlorine and ozone are being produced, and that operational practice could lead
to algae problems and poor sanitation. Remember, sanitizer is only
produced when the pump is on!
The
combination of salt chlorine generation and ozonation should prove very
effective. I hope
that this information proves useful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 2/18/2005
►
Needing A New Salt Cell?
I have had a saltwater
chlorinator for a
bunch of years and of late I seem to need to add some chlorine. Could this
be because the cell is worn out? Can it be regenerated or does it have to
be replaced? Thanks for the help.
Mark B., 10/2/2004
There are several
possibilities. Check the salt level, it may be too low. Your cell
may have to be cleaned with an acidic solution. This is especially true,
if your
saltwater chlorinator does not have a polarity reversing, self-cleaning
feature. Otherwise it is possible that the cell needs to be replaced.
Evidence of corrosion of the plates can be confirmation. Some retailers
offer replacement cells for a wide variety of units. If, in addition
to the salt chlorine generator, you utilize a
Frog Mineral Sanitizer,
you will be able to operate the salt chlorine generator at a lower setting and
this will extend the life of the salt cell. In addition, it will provide
some sanitizing backup to carry you through periods of heavy bather usage. I hope that I have
been of some help.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 10/2/2004
►
Stabilizer Level?
Alan, I have a new
gunite pool (approx. 9400 gals) w/spa and I'm using an salt chlorinator. The guy
who installed it said that stabilizer values should be 80-100 ppm for the unit
to work properly. My local pool store gives stabilizer levels of 40-100 ppm to
be acceptable. Does it make sense that a salt chlorinator would need the
higher stabilizer values? Thanks.
Bill, Tampa, FL, 4/27/2004
Not to me it
doesn't. A level of 40-100 PPM is acceptable, although I would prefer
40-80 PPM. Because you are not adding a chlorine product containing
stabilizer, the level will not rise over time. Test it occasionally, in
order to replace amounts that may have been lost due to pump out, backwashing,
splashing, etc. Enjoy the season.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 4/27/2004
►
Won't Do Without
One?
I live in Houston. We are
starting the process of getting quotes to build a new pool. My sister in
Chicago has a pool ionizer. I have never seen anything as easy as this.
Every season they put a few bags of salt in the pool when they and the
ionizer makes its own chlorine. They rarely have to add anything. Is it
possible to have this system in the hot humid weather that we have here in
Houston? I do not want a pool that is not an ionizer. Can you help me
in finding a pool company in our area that will install this system with
maintenance service?
Becky A., 3/6/2004
Not a
problem! The product that you are referring to as an "ionizer" is
more correctly described as a
salt chlorine generator system.
That's why some salt is added yearly: in order to replenish the salt content,
after the pool water level has been restored in the springtime. An ionizer
is something different: it uses copper and silver ions, in conjunction
with shock treatments, to maintain proper water quality. An ionizer does
not make chlorine!
A
salt chlorine generator system can produce all of your pool's chlorine
requirements, with a minimum of other chemicals. It is like having a
chlorine manufacturing plant. Chlorine output is controlled by a
setting on a dial and is making adding pool chlorine the old fashioned way
obsolete. It works in the humidity of Florida and the Arizona desert.
Having it installed in Houston is as simple as going
to a manufacturer's website. Using a dealer locator will help you find a local company. You'll,
also, find a lot of product information on their website. Good luck with
the pool.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 3/7/2004
► Pool & Spa Sharing A Salt
Chlorinator?
We are planning to put a small above ground pool
close to our hot tub, for next summer. Is there a salt water chlorinator that
we can use for both? We wouldn't necessarily need to clean both at the same
time.
Margo B., 8/31/2008
You might
consider the
Cubby Plug and Play
system, from AutoPilot. This uses a cell
that is mounted in a floating "swan". The unit is powered by a GFCI 110
volt outlet to the Cubby power supply. The cell has 25' of cord to run from the
Cubby power supply to the spa or pool. Keep it in the pool, until you need some
chlorine in the spa. Then, remove the swan from the pool and place it in the
spa for a few hours to sanitize it and create a chlorine residual. My guess is
that you can do this several times a week, depending on your usage, for less
than an hour each time, and maintain sufficient chlorine levels in the spa.
Then, because the pool is much larger, keep the "swan" in the pool until needed
again in the spa. There is a control dial that you adjust to
determine how much chlorine is produced. This dial is set between 0% to 100%
output. It shouldn't take much to maintain the spa in this manner, but ensuring
that your chlorine level is not too high, will needed to determined by actual
usage. Both the pool and spa will need to have the proper levels of salt
added. I hope that this information is helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 8/31/2008
►
Controlling
Chlorination?
I was browsing through the
information on mustard algae and came across pool automation. If we get a
chlorine generator, can we use an automation control to regulate the chlorine
level? The website was really helpful. Thanks for making it available.
Paul, 10/9/2003
A pool
automation control can be used for pool accessories: filters,
heaters,
safety covers, automatic pool vacuums and more. A chlorine salt
generator is connected electrically with the same circuit as the filter.
When the pump goes on, the
salt
chlorine generator is activated. The chlorine level can be regulated by varying the
control setting on the equipment or by increasing or decreasing the filter
run. There are devices than can control the actual chlorine level. If you
are interested in reducing the time and effort, a salt chlorine
generator and pool automation system are a good means to
accomplish this task. I hope that I have been helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 10/10/2003
►
Salt Chlorinators vs.
Ozonators?
Alan, how about ozonators versus salt chlorine generators? I have been
told ozonators kill a wider range of microorganisms than salt
chlorinators. Also, a friend with a salt chlorinator adds muriatic acid
regularly to kill algae. Your opinions, please.
Ron, 3/22/2003
Ozonators only work while
ozone is actually being produced. There is no residual action. This
means that ozone quickly leaves the water and that can allow for algae growth on
the walls and in the corners. It needs a backup sanitizer to perform
properly.
Salt chlorinators are complete sanitizers and do not require a
backup. It allows for easy control over the chlorine level and all water passing
through the cell is super chlorinated.
Having both salt chlorination and ozonation will allow for the salt chlorinator
to be run at a lower production rate. This, in turn, will extend the life
of the cell and reduce chemical usage.
There is no sensation of salt in
the water and little of the odor normally associated with chlorine. The addition
of muriatic acid has nothing do with algae. It
is being added
to lower the pH of the water. I hope that I have been helpful.
Sincerely. Alan
Schuster, 3/22/2003
►
A Salt Chlorinator: is
it salt water?
I know that salt is added to the
pool water and it is converted to chlorine, as it passes through a cell.
Does that mean that the pool is now a salt water pool? Can you taste the
salt? I like the idea of the product, but I don't like salt water
swimming. Can you supply any details? Thanks.
Kenny K, Ft.
Lee, NJ, 6/30/2004
Salt is added to the pool
water and I believe that a typical addition would be 20-25 pounds per 1,000 gallons
of pool water. That is far from the salt level of ocean water (about
one-fourteenth) and it is
not nearly enough to taste.
From my own experience, there is no
sensation of salt water. Not in feel or taste.
I hope that
I have been helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 6/30/2004
►
Good For The Liner?
I have a vinyl inground pool
and am considering getting a salt chlorinator. I have been told that it
will help maintain the appearance of the liner. Is someone pulling my
chain? How can salt do that? Please explain.
Robert G., Gainesville, FL,
1/14/2004
No one is
pulling your chain! It has nothing to do with the salt and everything to
do with the consistency of the salt chlorinator.
Salt
chlorinating systems are controllable and avoid big fluctuations of
the chlorine level. It is the presence of high chlorine levels that can
cause your liner to fade. Maintaining a steady 1-3 PPM chlorine level is
good for the pool sanitation and safer for the liner. Manual addition of
chlorine can cause upward spikes in the chlorine level, resulting in the
potential to cause fading.
Refer
to the page on "Vinyl Pool Liner Problems."
I hope I cleared things up.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 1/14/2004
►
Above Ground Salt Chlorine Generator?
Do you know of some
manufacturers of salt generators for above ground pools. Which one do you
recommend and why? Are they worth the cost?
Kurt W., 4/22/2005
How
about one that will cost about $200.00 and requires no installation. It
can be used with above ground pools, up to 18,000 gallons in size. With a
3 year warranty, it is definitely worth the cost. No chlorine to handle or
store, fewer problems and better water quality are just some of the advantages.
Previously, cost was the big obstacle. Now it has become affordable, even
for smaller pools. For more information about the
ChlorEase
Saltwater Chlorinator go to:
www.smartpool.com
I hope that I have helped you decide on joining the growing ranks of salt
chlorine generator owners.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 4/22/2005
►
Salt Chlorinator, Ozonator & Shock?
What a fantastic website!
Thank you very much. I've read
through much of your site, and I'm still confused over the mixing, or not mixing
of salt, ozone, and shock. I'm in the process of interviewing pool builders to
get an inground pool, roughly 13-15000 gallons. As you could guess, each
builder has his own idea on what is good and what is bad. Through independent
research, I've concluded that the ozone system is a benefit, and the salt
generator is also. This is especially important to me since my 3 year old
son has eczema. My main source of confusion is in shocking the pool. Is
shocking required with a salt system? One builder says no, another says a
chemical shock can be used, or put the generator in "shock mode" which lasts for
4 days. I believe I also read somewhere that salt generators do shock, but slow
enough that it doesn't always work on some algae. Somewhere else, I read that
you must perform chemical shocks with the salt, but not if you have an ozone
unit. Yet another says the ozone does absolutely nothing, is merely a scam and,
therefore, has no bearing on pool treatment. In
truth, I just want what will be best for the family and my son's skin problems,
regardless of the amount of work involved. Any guidance is greatly appreciated.
David R., Dallas, TX
2/22/2005
Salt chlorine generators are
pretty much a stand alone sanitizer. All of the water passing through the
cell is "shocked" for all intents and purposes. The use of a supplemental
shock is required only if there is a sudden loss of water quality, the bather
usage is very high or there are signs of algae. Otherwise, effective
control is achieved by choosing a setting. Under proper conditions, algae
should be a rarity. Ozone is anything but a scam. Ozone is not a
complete water sanitizer and should be used with a backup sanitizer, such as
chlorine, bromine,
mineral sanitizers or ionizers.
Using a salt chlorine
generator and an
ozonator is of tremendous benefit. Both products will
oxidize wastes and contamination. The salt chlorine generator will provide
basic sanitation and act as a back up for the ozonator. The ozonator will
allow the salt chlorine generator to be operated at a lower power setting and
this will extend the useful life of the cell. Less chlorine will have to
be produced, in order to maintain a satisfactory level because of the ozone.
The need to use a supplemental shock would seem to be nil, unless the pool is
totally neglected. Both salt chlorine generators and ozonators destroy the
irritating, odorous and ineffective forms of chlorine.
This combination is about as good as it gets
and there will less work, less chemicals being used and stored and easier
chemistry to maintain. If the cost is doable, it is worthwhile!
I hope that I have been helpful. Good luck and enjoy the pool.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 2/22/2005
► Corrosive
Effect On
Equipment?
I am getting estimates on installing a pool and
one of the pool builders said a cell salt generator is hard on the equipment and
would not recommend them but prefers a Chlorine and Ozone system. What is the
impact of the salt system on the equipment?
Roger S., San Diego, CA, 4/28/2005
What impact? The only
problem might occur if two dissimilar metals were in immediate proximity to one
another. After 25 years or more the equipment manufacturers know this and
have designed the equipment accordingly. Some lower quality
stainless steel ladders or rails could be affected. I suggest that you use
316 stainless steel or even better would be a ladder and rail made of composite
material. It will be chemically resistant,
easy to maintain and won't get hot to the touch.
Use the combination of chlorine
and ozone and you will have good water quality. But, you will have to take
care of the chlorine level, store chlorine and handle chlorine.
Or you could go with a
salt
chlorine generator and get great water quality, without
storing or handling any chlorine. You will be able to control the level
with the press of a button or the turn of a dial. That could be why 90% of
the pools in Australia have salt chlorine generators.
I
hope that I have been helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
4/28/2005
►
Sacrificial Zinc Anodes?
Do zinc anodes need to be attached to metal in a saline pool to provide
protection against corrosion, or can you just drop some zinc into the plastic
skimmer baskets?
Brad H., 5/12/2008
The use
of a Sacrificial Anode, with any type of pool, is more of a preventative issue,
than it is a protection device. The fact is, if your pool has a bad bond
wire loop, you are not able to discharge stray currents in the water and as a
result, electrolysis takes place. The anode sacrifices it's alloy to the
depletion rather than eroding the stainless steel and copper.
It acts like a home smoke detector. It warns you that there's something wrong.
I believe these products are recommended to be placed in the pump or skimmer
basket. Follow their instructions as to location. I would add that
for a normally operating pool with a proper bonding grid and for a salt system
that is properly installed, you have no need for the anode.
AutoPilot
has been marketing salt systems, for over 15 years, prior to the pool industry
suggesting sacrificial anodes for salt pools. While it is not harmful, it is
not necessary either, with a properly built and maintained pool.
In a swimming pool, stainless steel should be unaffected by the salt, so long as
the level is under 6000 PPM, which is about twice the level, in most pools.
I suggest that you use
316 stainless steel or even better would be a ladder and rail made of composite
material. It will be chemically resistant,
easy to maintain and won't get hot to the touch. For more information
about these products go to:
www.innovativecomposites.com Zincs are used in marine out drives, in order to protect other metals that are
in immediate contact with one another. The issues are different. I
hope that this information is helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 5/12/2008
►
Well Water
Considerations?
I e-mailed you a few weeks ago
for information on chlorine generators, thank you for the helpful info. Since
that time, my husband and I have been gathering information from some of our
local pool dealers and of course now I am more confused than ever. We have a 3
yr old in-ground 20,500 gal. vinyl lined, biguanide maintained pool located in
CT. We had an algae problem last year and want to discontinue the
biguanide. Our pool dealer sells the a salt chlorinator system, but advised us
against using one because we have well water with known high iron and manganese
levels. (we do have a water system softener system). When we filled our pool
initially, we used half well water and half was delivered. The water was
tested and not found to have metals present. We purchased a Dolphin robotic
pool cleaner for this season. Our pool dealer recommends that we change the sand
in our filter and now that we have the Dolphin to continue with the biguanide. I
stopped in at another pool dealer and they suggested trying a "copper-based
product" as an alternative to using biguanide. She said they have not found any staining problems, even with well water. I was doing some research
about this "copper-based product" and I am now concerned about the copper. Most
of the pool forums I visit say to stay away from all copper based products in
general. I was considering going with regular chlorine, but I am concerned
about the liner bleaching. Any advice you can give me is greatly appreciated.
Thank you in advance. Sincerely.
Carrie C.,
CT, 4/25/2005
If you have a sand filter that is operating properly and
would like to improve the water quality, replacing the sand with
Zeobrite
should be all that you need. With Zeobrite the filter will be able
to remove those small particles that previously could have passed right through
the filter. It can even take out some of the metals!
Why hasn't someone suggested this before? Zeobrite sand filter replacement
weights a lot less than sand. You should require one-half of the weight of
sand. That means in place of 300 pounds of ordinary filter sand, you will only
require 150 pounds of Zeobrite. For more information go to:
www.zeotechcorp.com
You need to give up on biguanide, no
matter what. It is common for people to develop resistant microorganisms, after
a few years of use. Once this happens, you should make the switch permanent.
The use of copper products,
with well water, is poorly advised. If
you have metals in the water, you will have to treat them with appropriate
products. Copper will
just become part of the problem and will require even more metal treatment,
while offering diminished performance. I have a wealth of experience with
copper products and I never believed their use with metal-laden well water was
the best move.
To switch from biguanide, you need
to add 4 pounds or gallons of chlorine per 5,000 gallons of pool water. Add
more, if necessary, until a stable FREE CHLORINE level is maintained. However,
before doing this I suggest that you add at least a double dose of metal
treatment, even if the tests are negative. If not negative, add at least one
dose per 0.5 PPM. More is better!
Liner
bleaching can occur when high levels of chlorine are maintained for long periods
of time or there is direct contact with a chlorine product.
A
salt chlorine generator
helps you avoid high concentrations and the need to shock the pool frequently.
A turn of the dial allows for to set the level.
With the
NITRO
Robotic Pool Cleaner cleaning
and filtering the bottom, there will be much better bottom circulation and fewer
algae problems. For information of this product go to:
www.smartpool.com
Which now brings us back to
salt
chlorinator. It is a much better choice
than ordinary chlorine.
Your pool has been filled with acceptable water and you should try and keep it
that way. Add a dose of a metal treatment monthly or prior to adding new
water. As a bonus, it will help keep the salt chlorinator cell free of
scale. A salt chlorine generator will better serve your pool needs,
cause less liner fading and be no more of a problem with metals, than would the
hydrogen peroxide shock used with biguanide or the oxidizer used with the copper
product or just plain old chlorine. I think it is the right
choice! Good luck and I hope that I have
been helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
4/25/2005
►
Hard Water As A
Factor?
Hi Alan. The water in
our area is very "hard". It leaves hard, white build-up on the tile of the
pool. Will a salt chlorination system help eliminate or significantly reduce
the amount of build-up on the tile? Thanks for your time and expertise.
Kelly R., Claremont, California, 3/25/2004
Good question! Adding a
salt chlorinating system will
require that about 2500-4000 PPM, depending upon the manufacturer's
recommendations, of sodium chloride be added to the pool water.
While, this will not increase the hardness level of the water, it will increase
the Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) of the water; which in turn could reduce the
solubility of some of the minerals in the water. The good news
is that the salt chlorinating system will reduce the amounts of other chemicals
needed to maintain water quality and will reduce the buildup of chemical
byproducts, that are more likely to cause problems. All you should need to
maintain the pool is an occasional dose of muriatic acid to lower the pH.
Because the water is hard you might want to add a monthly dose of a calcium
sequestering compound to help prevent scale formation. As a bonus, it will
help keep the salt chlorinating system's electrode plates clean and free of
scale. I hope that I have been helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster,
3/25/2004
|
Visit The
Test Equipment Store, for all your needs. |
►
Considering A
Salt Chlorinator?
Hi Alan, I am currently
designing a new house and pool in Tucson, AZ. I like the idea of the salt
chlorine generator, but have heard some bad things about their reliability. Can
you educate me on what is a good brand and what to avoid. Also, the prices
vary on-line. What is up with that (they are both the same new unit, not
refurbished)? One pool builder I've talked to only recommends a particular due
to reliability. Should I plan on installing an ozonator in addition to the
chlorine generator? I have read your other postings and understand it isn't
required because it is just for additional sanitation (not primary). Would you
install one? If so, would you go with the 24 hour operation type (instead of
the ones that operate only with the filter system running)? The additional
expense isn't a problem, but I
don't want to do it without a good return on the money. I plan on
servicing the pool myself because of privacy (I don't want a pool guy at my house).
Greg, Tucson, AZ, 3/25/2003
I am
unable to offer any help so far as pricing is concerned. Not because I can't,
but I don't keep abreast of the costs. I agree that price range is
surprising. Some of the price difference could be due to the type of
electrolytic cell that
comes with the unit. The cells are not all the same and some will
definitely last longer than others. Features such as self-cleaning
electrodes, low salt indicators, flow indicators, timers and more are available. I had one of the first
salt chlorinators,
offered in the pool industry, on my pool, since the 80's. Today, the
units are greatly improved over the original model that I had and I was very
happy with the unit and its performance. You don't really require
an Ozonator with a salt chlorinator system, but adding one certainly can't help
but make a positive difference! They
are great for convenience and should produce high quality results for you.
I hope that I have been helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 3/25/2003
►
Salt Chlorine
Generator & UV Sanitizer?
I am a physician who lives
here in Connecticut with my two children, ages 6 and 9, and my wife, who are all
very blonde, and end up with green hair after a few short weeks of swimming. I
have a chronic shoulder injury that requires that I swim in 90 degree pool
water. My in-ground pool is 18x42, is heated by a propane heater, and it has an
automatic pool cover. I am looking into an electronic chlorine generator
and combining it with a UV sanitizer. I ruled out ozone generators because of
the automatic cover, which covers the pool most of the day, as I am afraid of
the accumulation of gas that my family may breathe in. What do you think of the
combination of salt generator and UV sanitizer, considering that the pool is 90
degrees from June through September? I look forward to your reply.
Bill, CT, 4/25/2005
First let's
discuss the green hair. At about the time I was transitioning from life as
a cosmetic chemist to a specialty pool chemicals manufacturer, an article about
"green hair" was published in the Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists.
It attributed the problem to the presence of copper from copper sulfate, natural
sources and corrosion of copper components, as opposed to the use chelated
copper algaecides. You have a heater and you probably use trichlor tablets
in a feeder. Trichlor is acidic and if the water remains in an acidic
state for prolonged periods of time, copper corrosion will follow. You
should have the water tested for copper. Whether it shows up or not, add a
double dose of a quality metal treatment. Not only might it help prevent
more green hair, but it will help keep the salt chlorine generator cell free of
scale deposits.
You can use a
salt
chlorine generator without a UV sanitizer. You cannot use a
UV sanitizer without
chlorine, bromine or ozone. UV is not a persistent sanitizer, is not an
oxidizer and has no residual effect. Chlorine is all of those things and
more. The advantages of combining the two sanitizers is that you should be able to lower the chlorine level, while assuring that the
return flow is free of viable microorganisms. I see this combination as
ideally suited for a high bather load and high temperature situation. You
must have a sanitizer, like chlorine, present in order to destroy microbial
growth on the underwater surfaces.
Once you have a salt chlorine generator installed, the pH of the pool water will
tend to remain high. Acid conditions will be a thing of the past and so
should copper corrosion. Some of the negatives about chlorine will also to
things of the past: there will be less odor, less irritation and more
consistent chlorine levels. If it ever comes
to pass that you need a new heater, I suggest that you consider a
heat pump.
It will be less expensive to operate than propane, cleaner and there are models
that do not use copper heat exchangers. For more information visit
www.aquacal.com
I hope that this information
proves helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 4/25/2005
►
Bromine
Generation?
I have been using bromine tablets in my pool for 9 years and really love
everything about it except the cost and the 50# containers. I recently
inquired about a salt bromine generator and the individual at the pool store
stated that I can add bromine salt to a pool with a typical chlorine generator
and that would work fine (I know that the chemistry is very similar but she
wasn't very convincing). In addition one manufacturer's brochure did not
state anything particular about such a conversion. Any thoughts?
Thanks
for any information that you can provide.
Fred
L., 7/1/2003
If you add
approximately 10-25 PPM of sodium bromide to a pool, that is being maintained on
the typical pool chlorine product, all of the chlorine will convert to bromine.
The downside is that it cannot be stabilized or protected against the Sun's UV
rays and can result in higher usage rates.
Before adding sodium bromide, to a salt chlorinating
system, check with the unit's manufacturer, as to their recommendations.
It is possible that the bromides will have an adverse effect upon the life of
the cell and could require a complete draining. It is, also, possible that
sodium bromate could be formed and that may create adverse health
considerations.
A
salt chlorinating system is
capable of supplying all of the pool's sanitizing needs, without the addition of
sodium bromide, and will avoid many of
the odor problems associated with the usage of traditional chlorine swimming
pool products.
I hope that I was more
convincing. Enjoy the season.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 7/2/2003
► Eliminating
Previous Use Of
Bromine?
I have a 16x32 inground vinyl
liner sport pool and was using bromine last year. I am switching to a salt
water chlorinator and have been told many different things about whether I need
to drain the pool completely or not to get the bromine out before the switch.
The last suggestion was to drain the pool as much as safely possible (just above
the sidewall bottom depth) and then to add chlorine neutralizer (or some other
chemical to remove the bromine). Do you think this will work? Does this
chemical really eliminate the bromine like they say? I really don't want to
drain the pool completely to avoid liner problems. Thanks.
Don, 5/10/2005
Whoever
suggested that you add a chlorine neutralizer to get rid of the bromine really
doesn't understand what needs to be done. Chlorine neutralizer will
eliminate bromine, by converting it to bromide ions. However, adding
chlorine will cause the bromide ions to form bromine again.
You have to eliminate the bromide ions and, in that
regard, chlorine neutralizer is useless.
The
salt chlorinator
cell might be adversely affected by the presence of bromide ions. The only
way to totally eliminate them is to replace water. I suggest that you
contact the manufacturer and find out their suggestions for dealing with this
issue. It might not be necessary to remove all of the bromide ions, but
you need to obtain this information. Good luck and I hope that I have been
helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 5/10/2005
►
Keeping It Bromine?
I have never owned a pool before
and have just moved into a house with a 20k gallon pool. I think the pool and
equipment are between 10 and 15 years old. It has an Autopilot system. I had the
pool opened professionally, had the water tested and added 200 pounds of
granular salt from the pool store. All indications on the Autopilot are normal,
but after a week the chlorine levels are almost non-existent (free chlorine .17
and total chlorine .2). Everything else (Alkalinity (90), pH (7.35), Calcium
Increaser (113), and Chlorine Stabilizer (80))are in the normal range. I then
found out that the previous owner had converted from a chlorine to bromine
system at some point. Not sure where to go to from here. I understand that I am
supposed to add bromine. If so, how much, is there a special type, was adding
the salt a mistake or was there a special type of salt that should be used.
Appreciate any information. Thanks for the help.
Kevin M., 6/11/2006
AutoPilot salt
chlorine generators are designed as a chlorine generator, but can be
operated as a bromine generator with the addition of sodium chlorine and sodium
bromide. However, because bromine cannot be protected from the Sun's UV
rays with stabilizer, the salt cell output will have to be higher and this will
shorten the cell life. At pool opening time it is common for the
pool to have a high demand for chlorine or bromine. I suggest that you keep
adding granular chlorine, until the free chlorine is 1-3 PPM. In reality,
the chlorine (hypochlorous acid) will convert to bromine (hypobromous acid).
When testing as bromine, the level should be 3-5 PPM. Hopefully, at that point,
the AutoPilot will be able to continue to meet the demands of the pool. To
maintain the pool on bromine, after adding the normal salt amount, add 2-4 lbs
of sodium bromide. Thereafter, add 2-4 lbs of sodium bromide, for every
50 lbs of sodium chloride (salt) added. Bromine does afford some
advantages: less odor and irritation, more flexibility with the pH and
better performance against certain types of microorganisms. Good luck with
the pool.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 6/12/2006
►
Too Much Chlorine?
We just
bought a house with a pool that has an salt chlorine generator. The previous
owner replaced the cell recently, but didn’t adjust the chlorine production,
thus the chlorine level is really high. We’ve turn off the generator for now,
but I wondered if there was any other way to lower the chlorine. Please let me
know.
Ellen S.,
11/19/2003
Shutting off
the
salt chlorination system was the right first step. Without having been provided
with specific details and not knowing where you are located, there are several
options. If the pool is not vinyl, you can safely allow the chlorine
levels to drop by themselves. Make sure that the filter is operated for
normal periods of time. If the pool is vinyl or you would like to quickly get
the level down to a more comfortable level, you can add a chlorine neutralizer
product. Most pool dealers carry the item. It is used to reverse the
effects of massive over chlorination. Use as directed and once chlorine
level has been optimized, you should resume normal chlorination. I hope
that I have been helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 11/19/2003
►
Corrosive
Concerns?
Hello, I would greatly
appreciate your opinion on salt water pools. I am installing a pool this
summer and I can't make up my mind about going with a saltwater chlorinator.
I have some apprehensions mainly because of possible corrosion damage.
Have there been many problems with salt chlorinators and are they low
maintenance. At the end of the day I guess the question I have is, if you
were installing a pool would it be salt water. Regards.
John M., 4/1/2003
I have had
years of experience with a
saltwater chlorinator
on my pools - both in New York and Florida. Corrosion was never a problem, unless
there were
different metals in close proximity to one another. I did have some
trouble with the underwater lights and had to have the metal bolts
replaced. Other
than this there were no other corrosion problems. It is a low
maintenance item and greatly reduces chemical handling. Imagine
being able to control the chlorine level with a simple turn of a dial. Yes, I
would do it all over again!!! Good luck with your choice.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 4/1/2003
►
Stabilizing The Chlorine?
I am thinking of changing my pool over to a
saltwater system. I was wondering which techniques are the best for stabilizing
the pool when you have a saltwater system, or does a saltwater system stabilize
itself? Thank you.
Anthony W. 1/4/2005
With a
salt chlorine generator, all
you need to do is add an initial dose to stabilizer to bring the level up to
40-60 PPM. Thereafter, more stabilizer is needed only to replace that lost
through pump outs, backwashing and splash out. The overall water chemistry
should be maintained in the usual manner. Because salt chlorinators
destroy chloramines so effectively, you will find the swimming conditions more
pleasant and easier to maintain. I hope that I have been helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
1/4/2007
►
From Chlorine To A Salt
Chlorinator?
I am changing my pool
to a salt chlorine generator type and I was wondering if I need to do anything
to the chemical chlorine already in the water solution, before adding the salt
and starting-up the generator. Thanks.
Richard, 3/22/2007
You might want to check the stabilizer level.
If too high, above 100 PPM, you might want to replace
some water before adding the salt. A range of 40-60 PPM should be
adequate, to help protect the chlorine against the Sun's UV rays and allow the
salt
chlorine generator to operate more
efficiently. Otherwise, the water
chemistry should be maintained, as before. I hope that this
information is helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster. 3/23/2007
►
Chlorine Generator vs.
Ionizers?
I'm building a new concrete 26X42 pool and I'm
having a little difficulty deciding on the purifier to use. One of my
concerns is to eliminate as much as possible any chemicals used (i.e. I hate the
smell and feel of chlorine). So I've looked at several chlorine generators
and Copper/Silver Ionizers. Some vendors swear by the generators
because you don't have to handle chlorine. But, they can't answer my
concern that the Chlorine content of the pool is probably no different (i.e.
regular Chlorinators). On the other hand, Ionizers claim to use little or
no Chlorine. What can you tell me about the relative strengths, beyond
trivialities, between generators and Ionizers? Any recommendations are
appreciated.
Mike S., 5/13/2004
With an Ionizer you will
still have to add chlorine, bromine or non-chlorine shock on a regular basis.
Otherwise, organic byproducts will buildup to problem levels. The use o
f
chlorine or bromine will act as a backup sanitizer and help assure better water
quality. The ionization unit will reduce the use of chemical sanitizing
products - how much less will depend on your particular usage pattern.
The
POOL FROG combines mineral sanitizer and
salt chlorine generator technologies and allows the chlorine requirements to be
reduced to about 1/2 of the normal level. The
overall pool chemistry must still be maintained, as with any pool. Your
concern about chlorine should be eliminated.
Under normal conditions, it is chloramines that prove odorous and irritating.
With a salt chlorination system, all the
water passing through the cell will be free of odorous and irritating
chloramines and there should be much less of a sensation of chlorine being in
the pool. My own long-term, experience bears this out. It is the
chloramines - not the chlorine that are being smelled.
There are no chlorine containers to handle or store! As with
any chlorine pool, you will have to maintain all of the other water chemistry
parameters.
Test the salt level,
periodically to assure that the amount is within the proper range. Good
luck with your decision. I hope that I have been helpful.
Sincerely. Alan
Schuster, 5/13/2004
►
Superchlorination Advice?
Please help me! I recently
drained my NEW pool after being sold chemicals at the pool store that made it
look like 2% milk. Here is my problem. It is a 25,000 gallon saltwater
chlorinator system. I added 750 lbs of salt, stabilizer, and acid to get it
fired up for the first time...it has been superchlorinating for 30 continuous
running hours so far. After the initial 30 hours, I have it set to run 7
hours a day. The pool store said I needed to superchlorinate every day for
the first seven days. I am worried about doing this being that after the
first 30 hours I have a 3 ppm free chlorine reading, 3 ppm total, 7.8 pH, and
180 alkalinity. My limited pool knowledge tells me to set the chlorinator to
its normal low setting, due to it being in its acceptable range already and
stop superchlorinating. Unless there is a specific advantage to going
all week for startup, wouldn't this make the free chlorine reading skyrocket,
if I kept superchlorinating? Should I only adjust the pH and TA with muriatic
acid and turn down the chlorinator. My 4 in 1 kit tells me to add 1.15
quarts of acid to bring pH down, and the same kit says add 12 quarts of acid
to bring down TA. Which should I do? Have I given the pool enough time
to get an accurate reading? I am hesitant to go the national pool store that
has been helping me due to prior weak advice. Thank you for your help.
Tom, Scottsdale, AZ, 4/1/2004
If your water
is clear and there are no signs of algae on the walls, there is absolutely no
reason for you to continue to operate the
saltwater
chlorinator system at a superchlorination setting. Your
free
chlorine level is at the high side of optimum and the combined
chlorine is zero -- meaning there probably is no algae problems. You are
correct, in surmising, that continuing superchlorination will only cause the
free chlorine readings to become unacceptably high.
Operate the equipment to maintain a free chlorine
level of 1-3 PPM. I suggest that you control only the pH and keep it
within 7.2-7.8. So long as you are not experiencing cloudy water, due to
the combination of high calcium hardness levels and high total alkalinity, there
is no compelling reason to have to lower the TA.
Perhaps there was a misunderstanding in the advice that was given, but clearly
it was inappropriate. I hope that I have simplified things. Enjoy
the pool.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 4/1/2004
►
Potassium In Place
Of Sodium?
Will a salt system function the same if I use
potassium salt?
Mandy W., 11/24/2003
It seems that it is only recently
that I received the first email on this topic. Potassium chloride (KCl)
can be used in place of sodium chloride (NaCl), as the chloride ion source, with
salt
chlorinating systems. However, the appropriateness of its use
should be checked with the manufacturer of the salt chlorinating product.
It cannot be used, as a salt substitute, on a pound for pound basis.
For
each 10 pounds of sodium chloride required, 13 pounds of potassium chloride will
be needed. Periodically the water should be tested for chloride content
and adjusted to the level recommended by the manufacturer. One of the
reasons given for using potassium chloride is to avoid possible damage to
landscaped areas, due to the sodium content. I hope that this
information proves helpful. Enjoy the holidays.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
11/24/2003
►
Scale Deposits On Salt Cell?
I believe you may
be able to help me with my question. What is the chemical make up of the
scale that accumulates on the plates of a salt water pool chlorinator used in a
back yard swimming pool? Thanks for any help you can give.
Al E, 4/16/2007
The scale consists of calcium
carbonate, in virtually all cases. A self cleaning unit should help avoid
the problem. Otherwise, the cell needs to be cleaned, according to the
manufacturers, instructions. Using a product such as the
AquaPill Salt Cell
Cleaner can help avoid and control the buildup. For more information go
to:
www.smartpool.com
I hope that this information proves useful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 4/16/2007
►
Plates Need
Cleaning?
Alan. My chlorinator is only
developing a minimum of chlorine. I have tested and added salt, checked the
fuse cleaned all the strainers and filters and checked the impellor of the
pump for blockages. Flow level and circulation are good. Pulled the cell
apart and found that 50% have the deposit of salt on them while the other 50%
are bright clean. These are alternate to the dirty ones. Pulled the control
box apart and have found no obvious burnt out wire etc. Where and what do I
look for next. Regards.
Steve, Australia, 10/27/2003
The plates with the debris
(probably calcium carbonate) are the negatively charged ones. There are
two possibilities. The unit is either intended to be cleaned manually
or, if it has a polarity reversing feature, it has a defect in this circuitry.
I suggest that you refer to the owner's manual or consult with the dealer, as
to which possibility is most likely. I hope that this information will
prove helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
10/27/2003
► Winterizing With A Salt Chlorinator?We
are putting a pool in this summer and would like to put in a salt
water chlorinator. Our builder does not have much experience installing them
in our area (Burlington, Ontario) and is worried about how they will stand the
test of time in our climate. What are the negative effects of a salt water
pool in the Ontario winters.
T.S.,
Burlington, Ontario, Canada, 2/23/2004
First
let me set something straight. You will not have a salt water pool.
You will have a pool, to which some salt has been added - an amount far less
than real salt water. A
salt chlorination system should be
winterized, along with the entire pool. The cell should be removed and the
lines blown-out and capped. The controller can be removed and, along with
the cell, stored indoors for the winter. No other special considerations
are required.
Enjoy the pool!
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 2/23/2004
►
Yellow Prussiate Of Soda?
My pool has just been completed. It's a plaster pool filled
with city water. I have a salt generator. I bought the salt from a
pool store, just to realize that it contains yellow prussiate of soda. I m
wondering what are the consequence on the plaster, the salt generator and other
and if I should replace all the water? Thank you for your time.
Kassi, Watkins Glen, NY 8/31/2005
In some instances this can be a serious problem and for that
reason I urge people to use only non-iodized food grade or water softener
grades. Never use rock salt or industrial grades! In
your case, I suggest that you add a double dose of a quality metal
treatment ASAP. It should help prevent discoloration and as an additional
benefit will help keep the salt cell plates free of scale. Your water is
soft and should not present a major problem, as it probably does not contain
heavy metals. If your water had been hard, with metals present, this would
have been adding fuel to the fire. Evidently this pool dealer has not
experienced problems because of your local water quality. Next time you
need to add salt, I would use a better grade.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
8/31/2005
► pH And Total
Alkalinity Issues?
My pool store told me that our
pool needs Total Alkalinity Increaser, but the pH is 7.9, acid demand is 2,
total alkalinity is 100, adjusted alkalinity is 67, stabilizer is 100 and salt
is 3000. Wouldn't this recommended Increaser cause the pH to go even higher?
Shouldn't I be adding acid instead of alkalinity? Thank you.
Gordon, Bonita Springs, FL,
11/7/2004
Your pH is
slightly above range and I would not choose to add TA increaser. The dealer is
subtracting 1/3 of the CYA reading from the TA reading: this technique is
really only an approximation. The pH is already high and adding TA
increaser will only stabilize the already high pH. Inasmuch as your
salt
chlorinator tends to raise the pH, I would pay primary attention to
the pH and not worry about the TA, unless there are other problems. pH is
always more important than TA. Using a
FROG Mineral Sanitizer,
in addition to the salt chlorine generator will allow you to get by with a lower
production rate of chlorine and this, in turn, will lessen the impact on the pH
and TA. I hope that I have helped.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 11/7/2004
► Improper Bonding (Grounding)?
I install pools in Michigan and just started installing salt/chlorine
generators this year. Some of my customers are getting shocks from the
pool and decking or hand rails, sometime only from one side of the pool. It
seems to be a bonding issue with the coping? How do they bond a pool,
say in Florida, where they have used these longer than we have? Any
Info or contacts would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Steve, Michigan, 9/21/2006
In Florida,
the rebar is bonded before pouring the concrete deck and pool form, as
are the light niche, ladders and handrails. You can try turning
off devices from the main circuit breaker to see what may be causing the
electrical shock. If you get to the point that all the devices are
turned off and you still feel a shock, it may be the utility company's
problem on the main grid. Ground is often mixed with the neutral and
the result is a shock. Regarding salt systems, there should be a
bonding lug on the base of the control unit. Make sure this is wired to
the main bonding wire (commonly connected on the pump's motor housing
too). I hope that this information helps.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 9/22/2006
Editors note:
the information was provided by the good people at
AutoPilot.
► Polarity Reversal?
Hello Alan, I find your
website very informative. I have a saltwater chlorinator solid cell. I see that
the new cells these days are now self cleaning through reverse polarity
action. Will I damage my current cell if I reverse the polarity to self
clean myself? Appreciate your time and look forward to your reply.
Regards.
Lance W., Australia, 1/10/2005
A good
question: one that I had to seek some expert advice on.
This will not work because the plates are not bi-polar. Each plate, in a manual
system, is either positive or negative. What it will do is damage the cell.
That is why each side has a different size plug, so you can’t hook it up
incorrectly.
Chalk
it up to progress, but the newer units with polarity-reversing features are clearly
better.
Still any
salt chlorinator
is
better than adding chlorine the old fashioned way! I hope that I have
been helpful.
Sincerely. Alan
Schuster, 1/10/2005
► Salt Chlorinator And
An In-Line Feeder?
We recently ordered an
inground pool kit which came with a standard in-line chlorinator. We also
purchased a salt chlorinator. Can both be installed and if so, in what order?
Regards.
Tracy P., 2/18/2004
If you have a
salt chlorinator you should not need the in-line chlorinator, as it will serve
no purpose. The
salt chlorinator should provide
all of the pool's chlorine requirements. If more chlorine is quickly
needed because of visible algae, heavy bather usage, heavy rainfall, the in-line
chlorinator will still not be useful, inasmuch as what will be needed is a
quick-dissolving shock. I suppose that it can be installed as a backup.
However, it doesn't appear to me that placement is an issue. To be on the
safe side and not to void any warranty, check with the salt chlorinator
manufacturer. I hope that I have been helpful. Enjoy the pool!
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 2/18/2004
►
Not Completely Vertical?
We have just bought and
installed a salt chlorinator which states the salt cell plates should sit
vertical inside the salt cell plastic housing. However, when trying to
ensure this it meant the plastic threaded end of the salt cell was not quite
tightly screwed in place and thus it leaked water when the unit was switched on.
If I tighten the salt cell screw and thus cure any water leakage I notice that
the plates no longer sit quite vertical and are approximately 20 degrees from
perpendicular. Also, they vibrate when water passes through them.
Please could you advise if any of this is supposed to happen. Regards
Gwyn W., Australia, 1/7/2008
The function of the "must sit
vertical" is for the GAS TRAP to work properly. Most Australian units
use a gas trap, rather than a flow switch, used in American Engineered
units, to detect if there is sufficient flow or not. If not, the gases
produced from the cell will form an air gap that disconnects, the
conductivity of electricity from a cell blade to another electrode sensor.
Once it sees this "open circuit" condition, it will shut off power to the
cell. With the cell not exactly vertical, you would have to determine,
if it's off center enough to affect this gas trap protection. The
problem, with the gas trap protection, is that it is accumulating hydrogen
gas, which can explode under the "wrong" conditions. I suggest that you
contact the manufacturer of the salt system to see, if 20 degrees off, is
acceptable. It is obvious that to operate properly, the salt
cell must be securely screwed into the fittings. Most American
salt
chlorine generators
utilize a flow detector and can be installed in horizontal to vertical
positions, unless otherwise specified by the manufacturer. I hope that
this information is helpful.
Sincerely. Alan
Schuster, 1/8/2008
►
Zeobrite & A Salt Chlorine Generator?
We have looked up the
Zeobrite product and are considering using it in our sand filter. We couldn't
find anything that said if it was OK to use the Zeobrite with a salt system.
When we went to a pool product store, they didn't really know about the salt
system. Before we invest in the Zeobrite product, we would like to be sure it
can be used in all sand filters and with the salt system. I'm sure I have been
backwashing too often, and will not do that anymore. I always felt that if I
got the filtered particles out, they for sure wouldn't recirculate back into the
pool. The pool is looking better already, but the sand should be replaced
sometime soon. Thanks again for all your help!
Judy W., 6/18/2006
Good question and a surprise answer!
Yes, you can use
Zeobrite
and a
salt
chlorine generator together.
In fact, it makes it better! Zeobrite has to be periodically regenerated
with a salt solution. If
you have a
salt chlorine generator, it never has to be done. Enjoy the summer.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
6/19/2006
► Other Salt
Chlorinator Technology?
Thank you, Alan for the prompt reply. I am leaning toward the salt chlorinator,
based on your recommendation. However, while researching this technology, I
came across a company and their system is a salt chlorinator that you add the
salt into the unit not the pool. Any way this system goes for about 3
times more expensive than the other traditional salt chlorinator systems. Alan,
what do you think? Is this product superior, as they claim? Please
advise? Thanks.
Yasser, 4/14/2004
This type of technology could
be better in certain applications where you want to inject chlorine into a system, such as
a water tower. Adding salt to a swimming pool has not presented problems,
as evidenced by the growing popularity of
salt
chlorinators. By
adding salt to the unit, sodium hydroxide (otherwise known as lye or caustic
soda) accumulates in the tank. This is a dangerous chemical and has to be
removed from the tank periodically. With a traditional salt chlorinator,
there is no accumulation and the material is neutralized, as part of the routine
pH adjustments. With a tank unit, not only is there more maintenance,
there is a yearly or periodic charge to replace the electrodes and remove the
accumulated sodium hydroxide.
All of the water passing through, a traditional salt
chlorinator, is superchlorinated.
With the other type of unit, this does not happen and you may have to add shock
treatment on occasion. My own experience with salt chlorinators has been
great and it definitely made sanitizing easier. It is hard for me to
accept spending more initially, having to pay for periodic service and ending up
with more maintenance. Maybe that's why their popularity, in the pool and
spa industry, is so limited. I hope that the information has been helpful.
Sincerely. Alan
Schuster, 4/14/2004
|
Proper water chemistry will help to better control and avoid algae problems,
maintain more optimum swimming conditions and help assure correct performance of
the salt chlorine generator.
More information about Pool/Spa Water Testing Products can be found in the
Test Equipment Store. |
(Click on any image for ordering and information.)
▲
Return To Top Of Page
▲
Thank you for visiting
AskAlanAQuestion.Com. If you found the website helpful, please
tell your
friends and dealers. If not, please tell us. Your suggestions
are appreciated.
Aqualab Systems.,
Inc. does not make any warranty or representation, either expressed or implied, regarding
the accuracy or completeness of the information provided by this website; nor does Aqualab
Systems., Inc. assume any liability of any kind whatsoever related to, or resulting from,
any use or reliance on this information. The content of this website
should not be used, if it is conflict with any applicable federal, state or
local regulations or guidelines.
©,
2002-10,
A.S., Inc. All rights reserved.