Floatation-Isolation Chambers

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Maintaining a Floatation Tank!!!

Floatation Tanks fall into a gray zone, so far as proper sanitizing requirements, especially, if used commercially.  In spite of the high salt content, the water must be subjected to some form of sanitizing and oxidation. The right combination of products helps maintain proper conditions.  The regulations, concerning these products, vary based on location and use.  If you have a cartridge filter, The Blaster Automatic Filter Cartridge Cleaner will make that chore much easier.  Attaching a MetalTrap Filter, to the garden hose, will remove dissolved heavy metals, avoiding some potential staining and discoloration problems.

Automatic Filter Cartridge Cleaner Floatation Tank Removes Heavy Metals, from  the water Product and Ordering Information   Product and Ordering Information If you have a pool or spa water testing need, we should have the product.  ► Scroll down to read through some Question & Answer information. ◄

How to maintain a Floatation Tank?

Floatation Chambers or Tanks, also known as Isolation Tanks, Sensory Deprivation Tanks, Salt Water Spas and Rest Chambers, are designed to separate you from the distractions and stimuli of the real world and take you a place of quiet, dark, relaxing isolation, as you float buoyantly upon a pleasurable body-temperature liquid. Instead of ordinary water, a concentrated solution of Epsom salts is used. Set your mind free! Floatation tanks can be accessorized to suit your needs. Maintenance of the water must be done, so as to assure proper and sanitary conditions. The requirements, for proper sanitation and maintenance are in a state of frequent change or revision.  Requirements vary, by location and the intended use, and should be researched for the latest applicable regulations.  The NSF, APSP and the Floatation Tank Association are some of the resources to check.  If problems arise, refer to the Spa Problems Page, as a source of problem-solving information, broken down into various categories. Scroll down the page and click on the linked keywords, catch phrases or images, in the archived answers below, to access additional information, on that topic or product.

► Floatation Tank pH Testing?

I am concerned about the accuracy of the pH test, performed on my floatation water.  I was wondering, if the high Epson Salt contents pays a role and what would be the best way to test it.  Thank you.

John L. Durango, CO, 8/28/2013

According to work done at LaMotte Company, no method is better than an electronic pH meter or LaMotte Digital PockeTester.  I hope that is information is helpful.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 8/28/2013


► Adding Peroxide To A Tank?

I noticed in your Q and A for float tank maintenance that you recommend the use of H2O2 as an oxidizer in conjunction with a UV sanitizer unit.  The storage precautions for H2O2 recommend the exclusion of light from the storage container.  This seems to conflict with the concept of running the pump whilst administering the dose of H2O2 at 40 PPM in order to mix it thoroughly.  It would seem that it might be advisable to further dilute the H2O2 solution and then disperse as widely as possible over the surface of the tank (or run the pump with the sanitizer switched off) and then wait for a longish period for the oxidizer to do its job before starting a normal pump cycle with the sanitizer on.  Do you have any comments on this?

Peter D., 12/21/2014

Just use as directed. Concentrated hydrogen peroxide is a material that needs to be handled properly and storing in a cool, dark place will help preserve its longevity.  Going through a dilution step is asking for an accident to happen and will accomplish nothing.  Add it to the tank and avoid getting the full strength material on your hands or clothing.  Rinse and dry the measuring cup.  Happy Holidays.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 12/21/2014
 

► Peroxide Level Not Lasting?

I use UV/H2O2 as the sanitation approach in my float tank. I've had fairly stable levels of pH, TA, oxidizer and magnesium sulphate levels.  Lately, however, the solution seems to be keeping stable ph readings, but the alkalinity has measured zero or close to it, and I am no longer able to keep H202 levels beyond a single digit reading. I tried using a higher concentration H2O2, and was able to get the levels measured at 199 ppm one hour after treating and circulating for about 3 turnovers, but after zero uses and about four days, the H2O2 levels are back down to single digit ppm. Is this a signal I need to change solution? I'm wondering if maybe the TDS levels are somehow involved in the details, since there is so much Epsom salt dissolved into the solution. At present, the solution is clear, and there is no detectable odor or other sanitation problems. Is there something else I'm not considering, and/or do you have any advice on how to know when it is time to change float tank solution using water chemistry protocols? Thank you for your informative advice.  Sincerely.

James G, Windsor, CA

I don't know of any protocols, that would be helpful. It is recommended that the water in spas be replaced every three months. I would think that every 3-6 months might work, for a residential tank.  Use this link, for some relevant information:  www.floatation.org  It is possible that due to the high Epsom salt content, the TA test is not performing properly. That is something to ask the maker of the tester.  Most likely there is a lot of organic matter, on the underwater surfaces, which would account for the rise and fall or the peroxide readings. Keep adding larger doses, until you get a moderate level to persist, from day to day.  I hope that this information will be helpful.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 12/11/2014

► Floatation Tank pH And Total Alkalinity?

Thanks for providing useful information on your website. I have owned a floatation tank for about 6 months with few problems maintaining the Epsom salt solution. I recently tested the solution for pH which came out low, so I added sodium carbonate from the local pool supply store to raise it. It seemed to give a closer-to-perfect reading on my color chart that came with the test kit. I wasn't getting a perfect color match, so I took the kit with solution after retesting to the pool supply store. At the pool supply store they offered to test the solution for pH and a few other things (alkalinity, calcium, etc.) so I brought in a sample. The report (after I treated) indicated that my pH was at 7.5 (very good) but my calcium and alkalinity were low, with no unit of measurement to help me, or you! I was given the impression that pH and alkalinity are somehow related. Any explanation you have would be helpful. With the readings from the pool supply store, is there a reason for concern? Do I need to intervene to raise the alkalinity and/or calcium? While unsure, the rep at the pool supply store seemed to think that the pH reading was probably more important to maintain and treat than the alkalinity. Next, do you recommend a metal and scale maintenance routine for a floatation tank solution? Thanks for your time.

James G., 11/24/2012

Calcium is added to boost the hardness level or pool water. Your water does not need any calcium, because magnesium salts act to raise total hardness. The dealer is testing for calcium hardness. If he better understood the chemistry or could test for total harness, he would find it measuring off the scale. Epsom salt solutions are slightly acidic. You should raise the pH, by additions of sodium bicarbonate, as opposed to sodium carbonate. This will help boost the TA and help stabilize the pH.  If progress raising the pH is slow, then use sodium carbonate, instead of sodium bicarbonate. Treating for metals could prove difficult, because of the high magnesium content. If you suspect metals are present, in your source water, use a METALTRAP Filter to remove them, before the water is added to the tank. Magnesium sulfate is extremely soluble in water and you are no where near the limit. Calcium sulfate, on the other hand, is only minimally soluble. Scaling, as seen in swimming pools, should not be an issue. I hope that this information is helpful.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 11/26/2012

► Floatation Chamber Sanitizing?

I'm interested in installing a custom made floatation chamber, which uses a very high concentration of Epsom Salts (about 280 kgs/500 litres water). Due to the extremely high concentration of salt, water is 99% sterile, in order to achieve 100% it's required an additional sanitizer. Which can be the best sanitizer system? Ozonator? UV? Brominator? Keeping in mind the high salt concentration, could there be any damage to the system? Corrosion or rusting?

Jorge P., 7/9/2010

Ultraviolet will sanitize the water without chemicals and in an enclosed space that is very important. Bromine will sanitize the water and oxidize the wastes, but chemical odors might present a problem in the enclosed space. An Ozone Generator will allow Ozone gas to accumulate, in the air space, and will require special precautions, such as venting before use.  While UV will sanitize the water effectively, something must be added to oxidize the waste products. Hydrogen peroxide can be used for this purpose and would not create an obvious chemical presence. Corrosion should not be an issue, as the equipment is intended to be used in a high salt situation. I hope that I have been helpful. Enjoy the experience!

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 7/9/2010


► Proper Floatation?

Hello Alan, I am in Hendersonville North Carolina. I am trying to figure out what type of testing product I need in order to keep an eye on the level of Epsom salts in my floatation tank. Can you help? Thank you in advance for any assistance you can offer.

Bethanne, Hendersonville, NC, 4/27/2011

Several ways to do this. Test the amount of magnesium or the amount of sulfate present. Because the concentration is so high, you would have to dilute the water sample with distilled water. In short, you would become an analytical chemist. You could dilute a sample and use a dissolved solids meter. Or you could simply drop a hydrometer in the tank. A hydrometer is a bobbing glass cylinder that is calibrated to read specific gravity or density. When the specific gravity is too high, you add water. Too low - you add Epsom salts. This would be the simplest water to it. Possibly, the manufacturer has made a tester, similar to what is used to test antifreeze levels. In any event, this is doable. The manufacturer should be able to provide you with details on testing. To use any of these methods, you have to know what consists the optimum range. I hope that this information was of some assistance.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 4/27/2011

► Brown Water And Sediments?

The water, in my floatation tank is coming out brownish. It appears to be coming from the out flow or possibly the problem is in the tank water, as it gets stirred up, it turns brown. 30 minutes, after the pump stops the water is clear again. I'm baffled? Just not sure why this is happening. It can't be rust, as it all looks to be all plastic to me. Possibly something in the UV filter canister? I look forward to your reply.

David, W., 8/26/2009

The sediments could be impurities, such as manganese, iron and other metals, from the Epsom salts. Using technical or industrial grades can increase this problem. I suggest using a pharmaceutical or food grade of Epsom salt. Vacuum them up or filter them out and the problem should not return, unless you add more salt. There is nothing in the UV unit that would cause this problem! While it is extremely unlikely that algae, mold or bacterial will ever flourish in a floatation tank and a UV sanitizer will kill most anything passing through the cell, it is not enough by itself. Oxidation is required to decompose all of the debris, wastes and dead microorganisms that pass right through the filter.  Hydrogen peroxide or potassium monopersulfate would be the logical choices. An Ozonator could be used, if limited to certain periods of user inactivity and the chamber is vented before use. Better filtration could remove some of this debris accumulation. Vigorous circulation and agitation will help suspend the microscopic particles and allow for more effective filtration. I hope this will help solve the problem.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 8/28/2009


► Turning Brown and Cloudy?

My problem doesn't related to a spa, but to a floatation bed. Just as background, my colleague and I have a business in which we use flotation beds. The floatation beds are filled with nothing but Epsom Salts, distilled water and chlorine. Over the past few days the water in the beds has become not only cloudy but almost rusty looking. Use of filter cleared the water previously, but it is not working this time. I have four beds and if the water isn't clear, people cannot float and the business comes to a standstill. As background, "floating" is a relaxation technique in which a person lays down in a bed of water (and Epsom Salts) and floats. The beds are dark and quiet, and the stillness induces a state of relaxation and oftentimes sleep. The beds are specially manufactured for this purpose. There are a few floatation centers in the US and some spas here also have one bed, however it is not all that common. Floatation centers are far more common in Europe. Any information you could provide would be greatly appreciated. Regards.

Katherine G. 8/22/2008

Most likely the Epsom salts contained iron and manganese and their oxidized states are causing the discoloration. Try vacuuming, first thing in the morning. Using chlorine, as a sanitizer, has to be a realer downer. I would prefer to use an ozonator, making sure to vent the tank, for at least 30 minutes prior to use. In addition, you could use a low level of bromine, perhaps 1-2 PPM. This will help confirm that the bromine has done its job, if only small amounts of bromine are required. The cloudiness could be due to inadequate oxidation, caused by the limited use of chlorine.  Adding an ozonator will provide much better oxidation of wastes products and microorganisms. For additional sanitizing, you might consider using a UV sanitizer. They might add a dose or two of a metal treatment. Testing for iron and manganese should be done, although I am not sure a reading will be gotten, with all that magnesium sulfate present. I hope that this information is helpful.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 8/23/2008


► Would Not Be My Choice?

I am a floatation tank owner and have recently run into some questions about the overall water maintenance. I have had the tank for years and we have two people using the tank twice a week on a regular basis. I never really had any issues, as far as the clarity of the water in the past. I do not have the UV option, so the water purity is up to whatever I use as a chemical system and filtration. In the past, I have simply added a little bleach from time to time and everything stays pretty clean (in appearance) for the most part. However the smell of the bleach in the contained environment and a growing concern about over all water balance leads me to look for alternatives.

After a little research looking for non-chlorine and bromine spa disinfects, I came across the biguanide product line. In looking at their products, it appears to me that these might be a good fit for my purposes. I purchased the startup kit but I am experience the following issues.

1. The #3 product (sanitizer and scale) does not seem to be able to reach and acceptable level of measure? I have added much more then the recommended start up doses, but cannot get near the 30-50 ppm range, as recommended by the test kit? It just seems to eat this stuff without any increasing effect? I do get a 15 ppm reading, but cannot get the level to increase beyond this point.

2. The test kit shows calcium hardness off the scale. I assumed this would be the case with 800 LBS of Epsom salts in the water. Will the calcium levels or salt, in this type of environment, cause any issues with this type of water maintenance system? Should I be concerned about the high levels of calcium? Is there anything that could feasibly address this anyways with the salt solution?

3. I am assuming that I need to reach the right levels of the sanitizer and use the oxidizer and scale line products regularly as described by the product system to achieve a safe and verifiable level of sanitation. In many of your other replies about flotation tanks, they seem to address only using a high percentage hydrogen peroxide mix as an oxidation agent. Do I even need the sanitizer and oxidizer in this product line or should I scrap all of this and simply go with 35% Hydrogen Peroxide on some regular basis? Will this work as both a sanitizer and an oxidizer?

4. Should I use standard products for pH balance? The test kit shows by pH and total alkalinity to be high, can these be addressed by the standard spa products and do they need to maintained in a floatation tank environment like this? The tank product documentation does not really address pH at all and simply suggests a little bleach or peroxide from time to time.
 
Your web site is great source of information and I appreciate any specific information you can provide to me. In summary, I guess I have all of these specific questions which revolve around a central theme which is, in a tank environment, do I need to be concerned about total water balance like I would in a pool or spa? And does the biguanide product line present any issue in a vary high saltwater concentrated environment? Many thanks for your continued information focus to shed light and solid information in this area. Best regards.

Dean T., 9/17/2007

Firstly, chlorine is a very poor choice, even at low levels. It may function as a sanitizer and as an oxidizer, but it will produce chloramines: an odorous, irritating and largely ineffective form of combined chlorine. As chlorine reacts, with nitrogenous bather wastes, chloramines are formed. Obviously, within the confirms of a floatation tank, this cannot be pleasant. UV sanitizers require no chemicals, but can not sanitize the walls of the vessel. Still it is a great place to start, as it virtually destroys all of the microorganisms, in the return flow. The use of biguanide seems ill conceived. It is usually not used in the presence of divalent metals and you have lots of that present. The scale product probably will not function in your magnesium rich environment. Magnesium contributes to total hardness and probably interferes with the calcium hardness test.  In any event, I would make an effort to fill the tank with low calcium hardness water and not be concerned about the calcium hardness, thereafter. Most likely, the calcium readings are meaningless and probably are actually reacting to the high level of magnesium, which is chemically close to calcium. Biguanide does not provide the necessary oxidation function. Hydrogen peroxide will provide the needed oxidation, but may not sanitize. Your water has a very high dissolved salts content and is not an ideal media for microbial growth. You might not need anything else, but it is not a given. Adding UV sanitizing will prevent a microbial bloom, without chemicals and hydrogen peroxide will provide the needed oxidation. An Ozone Generator could be used, but it will require venting of the tub, for a period after the ozonator is switched off and before the tank is used. In the interest of bather comfort and corrosion resistance, you should keep the pH at 7.2 - 7.8. Lowering the pH, if high, will lower the total alkalinity. You can use sodium bisulfate to lower the pH. There is probably no compelling reason to worry about the TA, as lowering the pH. will make scaling less likely, that it is at the present.  I hope that this information is helpful.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 9/17/2007


► Slimy Walls Require Oxidation?

I have a floatation/relaxation tank (containing a high concentration of Epsom Salt to provide buoyancy) that I’ve been using UV to sanitize. I’ve been having a problem with a slime buildup on the liner of my tank. I’ve learned through your responses to other questions, that this is due to the fact that UV is a disinfectant, not an oxidizing agent. You had suggested to someone else that they use hydrogen peroxide as a shock. I did this using the only hydrogen peroxide I could find which was the drug store 3% variety. I used this for a while, with no negative effects to the water, but was concerned that the solution needed a stronger shock than it was getting with 3% H2O2.  I decided to give Potassium MonoPerSulfate a try. When I added the Potassium MonoPerSulfate to the tank water with the circulator running, my water immediately changed color to a murky chocolate brown. Over night it faded to a light tea color. I figured one of three things were the problem: Either 1. There was a reaction between the monopersulfate and the Epsom Salts 2. I didn’t use enough monopersulfate, and what I was seeing was half oxidized bio matter. Or 3. There was a reaction between any residual H2O2 and the monopersulfate. To test this, I mixed up a fresh batch of clean tank solution (about a pound of Epsom Salts to 12 ounces of water) and added a tiny bit of monopersulfate to it. – NO COLOR CHANGE. Next I added some more MonoPerSulfate to it – STILL NO COLOR CHANGE. I then cautiously added a little 3% H2O2 to it – STILL NO COLOR CHANGE. I figured since I couldn’t get any color change using my tests of clean solution, my problem must be half oxidized bio matter. Acting on this assumption, I added more monopersulfate to the tank. After about another hour or two of running the tank circulator, I checked the water, and found it to be lighter, but not clear. Being impatient, and fairly confident that monopersulfate and H2O2 mixed OK together, I added a little of the peroxide. Almost instantaneously the water turned crystal clear. At this point I figured I had applied enough shock, and the water was happy again. Assuming that the cause of my problem was un-oxidized bio matter, I decided to stay a step ahead of things this time. With the water freshly shocked a couple of days earlier, and no use of the tank since, I added about an ounce of monopersulfate to the tank solution. Immediately the brown color returned. I added some more monopersulfate after a while, and still the brown color. I then added about 10 ounces of 3% H2O2 and instantly, the solution cleared again. Could you answer the following questions?

What the heck is going on to create these sudden radical color changes? Why did the monopersulfate turn the tank water brown? Why did the peroxide return it to crystal clear? Why couldn’t I duplicate this reaction in a fresh glass of Epsom Salt Water?
Now that the water is clear, is it safe to float in?

What should I use going forward? Monopersulfate, Hydrogen Peroxide, or both?

If the answer to #3 is Hydrogen Peroxide? Is the 3% drug store variety appropriate (I can get a quart for about $1.25 so it’s pretty cheap), and if not where do I purchase a stronger variety (from what I’ve read on the web 8%+ solutions are classified as hazardous. Not to mention extremely expensive, mostly due to shipping)?

I’m using a small cartridge filter and a UV lamp in the filtration system. Do either of these now need to be serviced/cleaned as a result of this?

Thanks in advance for you help on this. Hopefully your background in chemistry can shed some light on what’s going on.

Dave, 12/19/2006

The decomposition products of peroxide and MPS are all colorless. You could be dealing with less than a PPM of a trace metal and that is nearly impossible to see in a small sample. The Epson salt may have contained metals such as manganese or iron and this led to a brownish sediment. Oxidation will cause many trace metals to darken in color and precipitate, as the less-soluble, oxidized forms develop. It should settle out and/or be removed by filtration. Once removed, the problem should not recur, unless more salts are added.  The addition of the MPS probably oxidized iron or other trace metals to a more colored state. Adding some metal treatment might or might not help, given the high magnesium concentration. I would not use MPS, in this application, as I have received letters about irritation, when excess amounts are present. Hydrogen peroxide seems to make the most sense. Pool and spa dealers, that sell biguanide sanitizers, will carry a concentrated peroxide solution. This should prove more cost effective. To provide oxidation, you might consider an ozonator. However, it should be used only when the unit is not being used and you should vent the chamber before each use. It is possible to test the peroxide level, with LaMotte Peroxide Test Strips. For the water to be pleasant and safe, you want all traces of slime gone and water chemistry within the reasonable range. I hope that this information will prove helpful.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 12/20/2006


► Unpleasant Odors?

I have Epsom salt water that I am using in my floating tank. At the moment the water has an odor that I would like to get rid of. The water is filtered with a 2 micron filter and a UV filter. It was after I added more Epsom salt to the tank that the stink started. How much hydrogen peroxide should I use to get rid of the smell? Can Epsom Salt absorb odors, if it is stored next to other smelly chemicals? I have 1600 pounds of salts in the water so I would like to keep it. I am looking forward to hear from you. Best regards.

John L., 6/12/2009

You really can't do this without testing. The odors are probably from microorganisms and/or organic wastes and byproducts and are not from the Epsom salts. Peroxide will oxidize and destroy the contamination and eliminate the odors.  You have to add a few ounces of peroxide, at a time, until you register a stable reading between 20-80 PPM. For more about Hydrogen Peroxide Test Strips go to our Pool and Spa Test Strips Store.  Neither the UV sanitizer or microfilter will solve this problem. You might give though to adding an ozonator. It will do the required oxidation. The only limitation is that you cannot use the tank, while the ozonator is running and you must vent the tank, to clear out the ozone from inside the tank. I suggest venting for 1/2 hour, about 1 hour after the ozonator is shut off.  Enjoy the floatation experience.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 6/12/2009


► Too Many Chemicals?

I am planning on buying a floatation tank and am concerned about the sanitizing. One dealer says, I don't need much and another says that I should use ozone and a mineral sanitizer. I have been in spas and I don't fancy being enclosed in that type of a situation. Is it possible to do this without chemicals? Or as few as possible. Thanks for any help you can provide.

Edward M., 5/12/2005

It is true that the presence of the high concentration of Epsom salts will prevent most microorganisms from surviving. Most is not necessarily good enough. You can sanitize the water without any chemicals, if you use an UltraViolet Sanitizer. It will sanitize the water, as it passes through the cell, using only UV rays. However, you will still need to add something to oxidize waste products. In a pool or spa, chlorine or bromine are used most often. In a floatation chamber, these products will create an unpleasant chemical presence. Adding some concentrated hydrogen peroxide will destroy the wastes and avoid an overbearing chemical signature and seems the better choice. The overall water chemistry should be maintained according to the manufacturer's recommendations. I hope that I have been of some assistance.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 5/12/2005

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