Chlorine Stabilizer - Conditioner

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Managing the Cyanuric Acid-Chlorine Stabilizer level, of pool water!!!

Cyanuric acid is used to stabilize/condition the chlorine and protect against the damaging effects, of the Sun's UV rays. A ColorQ 2X is a 2nd generation, Bluetooth, Waterproof, all-digital tester, that can measure all the common test factors. There is a model, for every sanitizing need.  The Circulator is a replacement return jet fitting, that dramatically improves circulation, by creating a spiral return flow.  Better circulation helps sanitizers work more effectively.  The WaterLink SpinTouch Labs are the ultimate tester, doing up to 10 different water test factors, in just 1 minute.

ColorQ All-Digital Water Testers Circulation Boosting Return Jet Fittings WaterLink SpinTouch Labs Product and Ordering Information Product and Ordering Information Product and Ordering Information If you have a pool or spa water testing need, we should have the product.  ► Scroll down to read through some Question & Answer information. ◄ Sanitizing is a must, for proper pool water management.  Salt Chlorine generators are a better way to utilize chlorine, producing more controllable results. They eliminate the need to handle, measure or store chlorine products, while reducing buildup problems.  An Electronic PockeTester Kit is a convenient way to monitor the salt level, as well the overall water chemistry. Salt Chlorine Generators - 3 models Testing The Salt Level Salt Chlorinator - Needs No Installation Salt chlorine generators are affordable and versatile.  Three models of In-Line salt chlorine generators treat all types of pools, up to 40,000 gallons.  This is the easy and better way to chlorinate any type of pool. Easy to use, providing better control and results.  Just dial-up the chlorine level, to meet the changing seasonal requirements.  Eliminates the build-up of cyanuric acid or calcium hardness. No need to shock with products containing calcium hypochlorite, as you can simply dial up the controller and put it in shock mode.  Better water quality and better results, while reducing the presence of odorous and less effective forms of combined chlorine.  This is a better way to do chlorine. If you have a salt chlorine generator, it is important to make sure the salt level is in the right range, for proper performance. PockeTester meters, are suitable for professional or home use and were designed for the quality-minded user. The tester’s sensor probe is dipped into a sample of pool or spa water and the results are ready instantly. Tracer PockeTesters are designed with replaceable sensors, so that more than one test factor can be performed. Standard PockeTesters have replaceable sensors, but each performs only a single test factor. Tests: Salt, Total Dissolved Solids (TDS), pH, Water Temp, Oxidation Reduction Potential (ORP) and Total Chlorine. The Model MegaChlor-CD salt chlorine generator, is a self-contained purification system, utilizing a natural process to generate pure chlorine. This unit is "smart enough", to only produce chlorine, when it is actually needed.  Requires no plumbing and treats all types of above ground and inground pools up to 20,000 gallons.  Full of features.  Just hook it up and add the salt.  It's that easy.  Traditional stabilized chlorine usage causes the cyanuric acid level to rise too high, over time.  With a salt chlorine generator, this buildup problem is eliminated and frequent water replacement can be a thing of the past.  This is a better way to do chlorine.  Choice of 2 models. Product and Ordering Information Product and Ordering Information Product and Ordering Information

If you have a pool or spa water testing need, we should have the product.  ► Scroll down to read through some Question & Answer information. ◄

How to properly use chlorine stabilizer (cyanuric acid) in swimming pools?

 Chlorine stabilizer or conditioner (cyanuric acid) is used, in outdoor chlorine-maintained swimming pools, as a means of helping to protect the chlorine from being destroyed by the Sun's ultra-violet rays. This helps the chlorine last longer and reduces consumption. The level of cyanuric acid is easily determined by a simple chemical test. In northern areas, a range of 20-40 PPM is considered ideal. In sunbelt areas, a level of 40-50 PPM, is recommended for pools not utilizing a stabilized form of chlorine. Over the past few years, the industry has come to recognize some of the negative aspects of cyanuric acid build-up.  Yes, cyanuric acid can help protect chlorine, from being destroyed, by the Sun's UV rays.  Cyanuric acid levels, over 50 PPM, have been shown to lessen the effectiveness of chlorine and increase the likelihood of negative consequences.  The regular use of stabilized chlorine, dichlor or trichlor, will result in a relatively rapid build-up of cyanuric acid, resulting in a decrease in sanitizer effectiveness and overall water quality. If you want to use chlorine and avoid the negative effects of a rising cyanuric acid level, chlorine can used in another entirely different and better way: a salt chlorine generator uses ordinary salt and converts it into chlorine. This eliminates the build-up problems, associated with rising levels of cyanuric acid, and the need to handle, store or measure chlorine products.  Salt chlorine generators can used as a backup sanitizer or oxidizer or in conjunction, with an Ultraviolet Sterilizer or ozonator, to improve sanitizing and reduce chlorine consumption.  Levels between 50-150 PPM are above the ideal and are considered to be a potential to serious problem, requiring that higher free chlorine levels be maintained. Every time a stabilized chlorine is added, some cyanuric acid is contributed to the water. When using a stabilized chlorine, for routine sanitizing, it is best not to use sodium dichlor as a shock treatment, as that only speeds the rise in the cyanuric acid content. Research has shown that pools with elevated cyanuric acid levels are more prone to algae problems and must maintain higher, than normal, levels of free chlorine, in order to control algae and microbial growth.  These higher levels require water replacement, in order to restore chlorine effectiveness.  The use of stabilized chlorine, in any form, will inevitably lead to a cyanuric acid level, that is too high to maintain adequate sanitizing effectiveness.  Stabilized chlorine should not be used in indoor pools and use in spas is not necessarily the best option.  Liquid chlorine, lithium hypochlorite, calcium hypochlorite or potassium hypochlorite are alternatives. The best and most effective means of lowering the cyanuric acid level is to replace water.  The use of a salt chlorine generator is a better way to utilize chlorine, while still benefiting, from the protective effects of cyanuric acid, at low levels.  If problems arise, refer to the Pool Problems Page, as a source of problem-solving information, broken down into various categories.  Scroll down the page and click on the linked keywords, catch phrases or images, in the archived answers below, to access additional information, on that topic or product.

Do you know what's in your water?  If you're having problems, with high chlorine usage, sanitation or water clarity, testing allows you to better understand the chemistry and determine the cause of the problem.  Once understood, you can select the best treatment option.  Understanding the nature of the problem, should be step one.  For information about our full selection of testing options, visit our Test Equipment Store.

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► Why Is The Cyanuric Acid  Still Too High?

I had a dealer run a series of tests and the cyanuric acid tested out at 150 PPM  Too high.  I learned, from your website, that the level became too high, because of my long term use of 3" trichlor tablets.  I knew that I would have to replace 1/2 of the water and did not want to have to keep doing this, because of the trichlor tablets.  So. I decided to go with a SmarterSpa Salt Chlorine Generator, that I saw, on your site.  Now, I have a salt water pool and there should be no more problems, with cyanuric acid buildups.  I had the cyanuric retested and expected to see a reading of about 75 PPM.  Instead, I was told it was 105 PPM.  That doesn't make sense, unless one of the tests was wrong.  Do you have an explanation?  Loving the convenience of the salt chlorine generator.  Thank you.

Brenda T., Lakeland, FL, 5/14/2021

Of all the common tests, cyanuric acid is the least reliable and reproducible.  Most testers only read to 150 PPM, maximum.  So getting a reading of 150 PPM, does not preclude the probability, that the true reading was in the neighborhood of 210 PPM.  That would explain why the level only dropped to 105 PPM, after half the water was replaced.  For your pool, 50 PPM is good, as a maximum, based on the latest thinking.  Higher levels will mean that you will have to maintain a higher free chlorine level, in order to assure proper sanitation.  Instead of 1-3 PPM of free chlorine, you might need 2-4 PPM.  It would be in your long term interest to drop the level closer to 50 PPM, as it should help the salt cell last longer.  LaMotte has come out with a new Cyanuric Acid Test Strip, that measures from 0-500 PPM.  This is something that a dealer should have available and should use to retest all readings over 100 PPM.  I hope that this information is helpful.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 5/14/2021
 

► How Much Is Too Much?

What is the acceptable level of cyanuric acid in a swimming pool? Someone came out to do a water test and said that my level was 250 PPM, and that I should drain the pool. They said I should not use tablet chlorine - only liquid chlorine or my pool would be ruined in 3-5 years. Is this correct?

P. G., 2/10/2018

Ruined??  Not sure about that.  A range of 20-40 PPM is considered ideal.  There is no question that 250 PPM is much too high. Such levels can interfere with the effectiveness of the chlorine and require you to maintain a much higher Free Chlorine level, in order to maintain adequate sanitation. Not knowing where you are located makes my answer more difficult. High levels can lead to other water quality issues in hard water areas. They are telling you not to use chlorine in tablet form because it will add more cyanuric acid to the water. Liquid chlorine does not contain cyanuric acid. I'm not sure about "ruining your pool."   I hesitate to tell anyone - especially if I do not know the type of pool or construction to drain a pool.  If it is a vinyl pool, completely draining the pool can risk structural damage or liner shrinkage. If the pool is masonry, it should be able to be drained. However, I would double check with the builder. If you don't want to or can't drain the pool completely, another option would be to pump out some water every week - perhaps, up to a foot below the skimmer. This will drop the cyanuric acid level in increments. Once the level is down, I suggest that you use supplement the chlorine tablets with a weekly dose of liquid chlorine, as a means of keeping the cyanuric acid level from rising too quickly. An alternative to liquid chlorine, that avoids the buildup problems, is a salt chlorine generator.  I hope that this recommendation works out for you.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 2/10/2018


► The Need To Add More?

How often should I add chlorine stabilizer?

Bob V., 8/7/2019

Cyanuric acid is usually tested at the start of the season and is added, if necessary. Most residential pools, using a stabilized chlorine, will rarely have to add additional; product, unless large amounts of water have been lost or displaced. Pools that are maintained on chlorine, but are not using a stabilized chlorine, may have to replenish the stabilizer level from time to time, if water is lost due to backwashing, leaks or overflow. The test is simple and could help reduce chlorine consumption. To better assure proper overall pool water chemistry, visit a pool store that has a very reliable, professional lab such as a WaterLink SpinTouch Lab, rather than a less accurate test kit or strip reader.  I hope the information proves useful.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 8/7/2019

 
► Too Much Chlorine Stabilizer?

My pool water was tested and I was told that the stabilizer level was 200 PPM. I was told that the only way to lower the level was to replace some of the water. Is there a chemical that I can add that will lower the level, without removing water? What happens if I don't lower the stabilizer level? Thank you.

Austin U., Deptford, NJ, 6/24/2017

Firstly, there is no chemical that you can reliably add to the water that will remove the stabilizer and lower the level. Such a chemical was marketed, years ago, but proved to be a disaster for the pool owner. Secondly, replacing water is the only effective means of lowering the stabilizer level.  Thirdly, if you don't lower the level you will be forced to maintain higher levels of chlorine, in order to provide adequate sanitation.  Incidentally, the safest way to lower the water, without potentially damaging the pool, is to lower the water to the winterizing level. Do this weekly, until the level drops below 100 PPM. Testing for Chlorine Stabilizer will help you keep track of the progress. A level of 150 PPM is considered too high and is interfering with the effectiveness of the chlorine. Most State Department of Health guidelines limit cyanuric acid levels to below 100 ppm. There is also a move for some states to limit it to 50 ppm, and for some, 0 ppm (New York State). The primary purpose behind this is the fear of Cryptosporidium and E-Coli contamination, affecting swimmers. Basically, cyanuric acid hinders the speed at which the chlorine can react and kill germs and viruses. The lower the Cyanuric acid, the quicker chlorine reacts. Therefore, the lowering the cyanuric acid level is, theoretically, increasing the "efficacy" of the chlorine. A salt chlorine generator is a highly effective way to maintain a chlorine pool, without contributing unwanted byproducts, such as excessive levels of cyanuric acid or increases in the calcium hardness, to the point of scaling or cloudy water. Most pool testers only test to 100-150 PPM.  A reading of 150 PPM could actually mean the reading could be 300 or more.  A NEW Insta-Test Cyanuric Acid Strip measures up to 500 PPM, in a instant.  I hope that I have been helpful.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 6/24/2017


► Chlorine Stabilizer Content in Tablets?

How much chlorine stabilizer is present in the chlorine pucks?

Bob B., Marietta, GA, 6/12/2018

About 1/2 the weight of the tablet, ends up as cyanuric acid, after the tablet has dissolved. The same applies to dichlor. That is why the cyanuric acid slowly rises, over time, forcing you to replace water, after 50 PPM is reached, based on the latest thinking on what is an optimum cyanuric acid level. Higher levels of CYA make chlorine less effective and force you to maintain much than free chlorine levels, than the typical 1-3 PPM free chlorine range. Using a salt chlorine generator, for your chlorine needs, completely avoids this problem. Adding an ozonator will help you use less chlorine and slow up the rise of the CYA. I hope that this information will prove helpful.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 6/12/2018


► Will It Go Away?

I found your website through LaMotte Company, whose strips I use religiously. I live in Maryland, have a black plaster pool, around 7 years old, use DE filter, and stabilized granular and stick chlorine. This summer we had an unusually hot spell lasting for about 10 days that coincided with an outbreak of green algae, which I’ve never had before. I seem to be using unusually high levels of chlorine as well to ward off the algae, but the chlorine seems to be wearing off more quickly than usual. I’ve had a couple of water tests done at different stores with some varying results. However, I did get similar readings for cyanuric acid (140-150ppm) and stabilizer-adjusted total alkalinity (55-61ppm). Hardness is a little on the low end (200-260ppm), pH is 7.2-7.3. Chlorine readings are as expected low. One test said I had 0.83 ppm iron, the other did not detect it. Read your website about cyanuric acid and have concluded I should try to lower the 150 reading. I plan to winterize in about a month (with a professional). My question for you is – does cyanuric acid dissipate over a period of time? If I don’t replace any of the water now before winterizing, will it “go away” over the winter. We usually reopen early April. Your suggestions would be welcome. Thank you.

Bruce V., Maryland, 9/21/2006

Cyanuric acid will not go away. It can be lowered, only by replacement of water. You should lower it to under 50 PPM. High levels will make chlorine less effective, but you will still get a reading.  Your problem could be not enough chlorine is being added, for the way your pool is being used. Your hardness is not low and you should not allow it to rise higher, by using calcium hypochlorite. I would not recommend dichlor either, as it will cause the cyanuric acid level to rise. To supplement the trichlor, you should use liquid chlorine or lithium hypochlorite, as neither will add to a buildup problem. The iron should be treated by a double dose of a metal treatment. As long as you are using chlorine, why not make it easier? A salt chlorine generator will do just that and avoid chemical buildup problems. I hope that this information is helpful.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 9/21/2006

► Test Contradiction?

Hi, you answered a question for me a few weeks ago about our cloudy water after opening, and after giving it time our water looks great. Now I have two problems. After shocking the pool in the evening, we are able to maintain a free chlorine reading of about 4 ppm overnight. I go home at lunch and bring some water back to work with me to test, and verify that the free and total chlorine are about 4.1 and 4.5. But, by the time I get home in the evening the chlorine has dropped to nothing. We have a chlorinator that we keep tri-chlor tablets in but for some reason it doesn't seem to be working. We even added some tablets to our skimmer basket (this is not our normal practice) just to make sure it wasn't the chlorinator. In past seasons, if we loaded our chlorinator up, even at a low setting, it would over chlorinate the pool big time. So we would always keep about two tablets in and this would last 3 or 4 days, even in hot weather. It's still cool (temp is about 65) so why are the tablets not working? Is it time to load the chlorinator up? So every time our chlorine drops to zero, we shock again, and the same thing happens. Our pH is now dropping below acceptable range too. The other question is our stabilizer level. When using the drop turbidity test, results indicate that level is too high and we have been able to get it down to 100, with partial water changes. However, if I test with test strips, they indicate that there is no stabilizer. It doesn't change color at all. All other parameters on the test strip are very close to what I get with a kit, or here at work. If there really was not stabilizer, this would explain the chlorine not lasting right? But I thought the drop turbidity test was most accurate. We have a 24' x 52" above ground pool. Thanks.

Shannon Y., Frankfort, KY, 4/15/2010

The most likely reason that the chlorine levels would drop like that, is if there are algae and bacteria growing on the underwater surfaces. If that is the case, you might not notice it, but the walls would be slimy. You need to shock the pool. Once this material is destroyed, the trichlor tablets will be better able to keep up, but their use will cause the cyanuric acid level to rise, over time. Trichlor is acidic. The best way to avoid rising cyanuric acid level s is too avoid the use of all stabilized chlorine products.  A salt chlorine generator is a much better way to chlorinate a pool, while avoiding the buildup of both cyanuric acid and calcium hardness.  You need to add soda ash on a regular, as needed, basis. Have the pool and tap water tested for phosphates and nitrates. You may not be able anything about the nitrates. If present, you positively should do something about the phosphates. These vital nutrients fuel algae growth. That would explain the rapid decline in chlorine levels. Your test strips are not correct. You are using trichlor and, therefore, zero cyanuric acid is not possible. You want the level to be under 100 PPM. Otherwise, chlorine is less efficient. Even then, there would still be a reading. All test strips are not the same. I suggest that you try using the LaMotte Insta-Test product. With all test strips, take care not to handle with wet fingers and store in a cool, dark and dry place. I hope that this information will help.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 4/15/2010


► Stabilized Difficulties?

I am having a problem keep chlorine in my pool. This problem happened once before and I was told the cyanuric acid level was high. We drained the pool about 2/3 and started to use unstabilized chlorine tablets in our feeder. This corrected the problem. The new problem I encountered was that the unstabilized chlorine tablets turn to mush in the feeder. I can only put one in at a time or it clogs the feeder. I started using stabilized chlorine again and my acid level is back up. Do you have any suggestions on how to keep chlorine in my pool with out using the unstabilized chlorine tablets. (a floater is not an option with my pool type) I have a fiberglass 6000 gallon pool and live in the Florida Keys where the sun is very intense. Thank you.

Mary Schick, Florida Keys, 4/5/2015

High levels of cyanuric acid does not prevent you from maintaining a chlorine level. However, levels over 150 PPM can make chlorine less effective and can be remedied by replacing some of the water. The only product that you can use in an enclosed chlorine feeder are stabilized trichlor tablets. You can't use an unstabilized product, as it will disintegrate, release chlorine too quickly and possibly present an explosive hazard.  You are unable to maintain a proper level because the feeder is not releasing chlorine at a fast enough rate to satisfy the needs of the pool. Sometimes, especially during hot weather and periods of heavy bather demand, you may have to supplement the feeder with shock treatments. Always try and keep the feeder relatively full and do not allow all the tablets to dissolve. As long as you use stabilized chlorine, you will have to replace water periodically, in order to lower the CYA level. If the cyanuric acid level is allowed to go over 50 PPM, you will have to maintain increasingly higher levels of free chlorine, in order to maintain proper sanitation.  A much better way to add chlorine would be with a salt chlorine generator. I hope that this information proves helpful.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 4/5/2015

► Do I Still Need Chlorine Stabilizer?

If my chlorine level stays on the high side would I still need to add stabilizer?

Scott T., 5/6/2013

Cyanuric acid helps chlorine last longer, by protecting it from the Sun's UV rays.  50 PPM is considered a reasonable maximum, as higher levels will reduce chlorine efficacy and force you to maintain even higher chlorine levels.  It all depends on what the cyanuric acid level is: 40-50 PPM is frequently suggested. If your chlorine is staying on the high side, it is because you are adding more chlorine than is necessary for your pool, under current conditions. CYA levels above 50 PPM should be considered too high and should be reduced by water replacement. A salt chlorine generator is a better way to utilize chlorine and while help you avoid the ever-increasing CYA levels, that could with the use of any stabilized chlorine product.  I hope that I have been helpful.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 5/6/2013


► What Chlorine Stabilizer Does?

I have a new pool surface (aggregate) that is now 4 weeks old. All the startup chemicals were put in but I now have a green pool which is really and I mean really hard to brush off the new surface. I was informed that I had not stabilizer in the pool as of yet so I bought that, with a heavy duty bacteria, algae treatment which I put in last night. I followed all the directions with the amount and brushing, but this morning the walls still have quite a bit on them. Is the stabilizer that important, even to have in with the algae reducer? Thanks.

Bruce C., 4/4/2007

Stabilizer helps make the chlorine last longer and that makes it important. Unless you get the free chlorine level elevated, you will not solve the problem. Algaecides and stabilizer are not enough. I suggest that you add the liquid chlorine or quick dissolving shock, about a pound/gallon per 5,000 gallons, until the free chlorine level is over 5 PPM. Don't drag it out! The longer it takes, the more product will be required. Keep it there until the problem is under control.  You have green water because the sanitizer level was inadequate and algae took hold.   Check the overall water chemistry as well, as it can be affected by the new finish. Have the water tested for phosphates and nitrates, as their presence could promote algae growth and increase chlorine usage. Make sure that you are testing for FREE CHLORINE. A product, such as the ColorQ 2X Digital Water Analyzers, provides the right kind of information and is ideal for this purpose. Easy to use too!  I hope this explanation is helpful.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 4/5/2007

► Extreme High Cyanuric Acid Level?

A question concerning Chlorine and Cyanuric acid. Many pool maintainers here use large doses of chlorine to solve any and all problems. They come to us when they experience difficulties. We have recently measured very high levels of Cyanuric acid in a number of pools, in excess of 600ppm. The question is about measurement of chlorine levels in the presence of a high level of cyanuric acid, (over 200ppm). As the acid locks the chlorine in, can the chlorine measurement we take be reliable? We have photometric and titration systems. Yours sincerely,

Paul C., 2/15/2016

Chlorine doesn't solve everything, as you know. Adding stabilized shock can make a bad situation worse. It is not necessarily a case of extreme high levels of CYA interfering with the test results - the high CYA levels will interfere with the action of chlorine and make it necessary to maintain higher than normal levels. As the CYA increases, chlorine becomes less effective. Unfortunately, the pool owner does not take this into consideration. At 600 PPM, there is no doubt that the level needs to be lowered. This can only be done by a major water replacement. I would guess that the pool is in the southwest or Florida and that trichlor has been used, for a long time. In addition, dichlor may have been used a shock. My belief is that if trichlor is used, dichlor should never be used. Instead, calcium or lithium hypochlorites, liquid chlorine or potassium monopersulfate should be used as a shock or to supplement the trichlor during peak bathing periods. However, if you continue to use a stabilized, you will, once again, end up with a cyanuric acid level that is too high.  The latest industry thinking is that pools are best served, when the cyanuric acid level is under 50 PPM.  If you want to use chlorine, then a salt chlorine generator is definitely the best option, as it adds no unwanted byproducts, such as cyanuric acid. I hope that I have been helpful.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 2/16/2016


► How To Lower Cyanuric Acid Levels?

On opening my  26000 gal. in-ground vinyl lined pool the water tested 130 ppm of cyanuric acid, 390 ppm calcium hardness, scaling/saturation index 0.40, alkalinity 170. I have an automatic chlorinator, solar mineralizer, a cartridge filter and heater.  What procedures should I follow to get rid of this problem? What problems will be caused by this? Our pool store recommended draining half the pool. But, since we can't afford to buy that much water we are taking it down a little at a time and adding fresh water at about four inches down and four inches up. How many times do we need to do this? How low does the cyanuric level have to be before we can start using our chlorinator, mineral purifier and heater? Thank you for your time.

Susan D., 4/19/2018

High cyanuric acid levels just make the chlorine less effective and, in turn, requires that higher levels be maintained. You can use everything right now. Replacing 4 inches at a time, means about a 5% reduction. You'll be there forever. I suggest doing it about 12 inches below the skimmer, at a time. In the long run, you will require less water to get the level down. Try and get the level under 50 PPM. Do not use dichlor, as a shock, as it will only cause the CYA level to rise quicker. You should seriously consider switching to a salt chlorine generator, which will eliminate the buildup of cyanuric acid, while providing more control and better results. I hope that I have been helpful.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster. 4/19/2018


► Stabilizer And A Salt Chlorinator?

I'm having an inground pool installed with a salt chlorinator. The dealer recommended that I use chlorine stabilizer to reduce the workload on the salt chlorinator. Is this a good idea? Is it effective? Is it a recommended practice? Could it in anyway interact with the chlorinator in a wrong way? Thanks in advance.

Marc, Quebec, Canada, 5/11/2006,

Yes!!! Yes!!! Yes!!! No!!!

If you don't add 20-40 PPM, the salt chlorine generator will have to produce more chlorine and that will shorten the life of the cell. Add it! I hope that this information proves helpful and enjoy the pool.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 5/11/2006


► Is There An Alternative Sanitizer?

I do not like lots of chemicals "stuck" in my pool and this product stays forever. Is there an alternative stabilizer for salt water pools?

Stuck, 4/9/2007

Most of what dissolves in a pool remains forever or until you replace the water. Would you rather add it unnecessarily every month? There is no alternative. If you don't add it, the chlorine will dissipate quicker and that will result in having to make the salt chlorine generator produce more chlorine.  That in turn, causes the pH to rise faster and it will require a new cell on an accelerated basis. Add the chemical. You only need about 50 PPM. Most pools, using stabilized chlorine, end up with much higher amounts. I hope this information is helpful.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster. 4/9/2007


► Stabilizer And Total Alkalinity?

I have been in the pool/spa business for about 4 years and have become a little confused about the relationship between conditioner (cyanuric acid) and total alkalinity. The more sophisticated chemical testing software programs we use to analysis water all make a 30% adjustment for cyanuric acid, in the total alkalinity readings. But, few if any body every talks about it on the many informational web sites out there, including yours. Can you give me a detailed understanding of this relationship, and if it should really be taken into consideration when testing for TA?
 
Stan C., 12/14/2009

Good question!!! The total alkalinity test measures the presence of all materials, dissolved in the water, that are more alkaline than a pH of approximately 4.5. In swimming pool water this includes not only the carbonates and bicarbonates, but silicates, phosphates and cyanurates as well. Cyanuric acid is a weak acid and in swimming pool water forms various cyanurates, which are weakly alkaline. Typically, other than the carbonates and bicarbonates, only the cyanurates are present in a high concentration. Chlorides and sulfates do not have a significant effect upon the pH or TA. Inasmuch as the TA test picks up all of the alkaline materials, it does not distinguish between carbonates/bicarbonates and cyanurates. The purpose, of the carbonates and bicarbonates, is to create a buffer that will help stabilize the pH in the 7.2-7.8 range and they are ideally suited for this purpose. Cyanurates, on the other hand, will register on the TA test, but are not chemically well-suited to act as a pH buffer in the 7.2-7.8 range. High levels of cyanuric acid will inflate the true carbonate/bicarbonate total alkalinity test readings and, perhaps, give a false impression of properly buffered water. To eliminate this error, 30% of the cyanuric acid reading should be deducted from the total alkalinity reading, in order to approximate the true carbonate/bicarbonate alkalinity.  The important thing is to consider the ability of the pool to maintain a stable pH, without the need for frequent pH adjustment. In hard water situations and in areas with high TDS, it may be preferable to keep a lower carbonate/bicarbonate TA because of the possibility of scaling and cloudy water conditions. I hope that I was able to explain the theory behind the chemistry.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 12/16/2009


► Can I Add Chlorine Stabilizer?

I have been using liquid chlorine for sanitizing and as a shock. I know its a pain to lug home those containers and I really don't like the acid, but it is cheaper. If I add chlorine stabilizer will it help? Is it worth doing? Living in Paradise!

Steve T., Delray Beach, FL, 5/12/2008

Chlorine stabilizer can be used in any outdoor, chlorine-maintained pool. It will help reduce the chlorine consumption and help make the chlorine last longer. That means you will have to lug home fewer containers and have more time to enjoy Paradise. It will help and it is worth it. Have a happy!

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 5/13/2008


► Avoiding Too Much Stabilizer?

First, let me thank you again for the help you provided last spring. Last year and now this I am getting high cyanuric acid level readings (approx. 100 ppm). Last summer I pumped the pool down 12-18 inches and refilled several times with some minor improvement; looks like the same routine this year. My question is, would it be a good idea to use unstabilized chlorine until I get this back to a normal level? Is there a better way to drop the cyanuric acid level other than water replacement? Thanks in advance for your help.

Bill P., 4/7/2005

Water replacement is the only way to lower the stabilizer level.  You can use an unstabilized chlorine and it will benefit from the stabilizer already present in the water. You may have to give up some convenience. You might continue using trichlor or dichlor at a lower level, by using a non-stabilized shock to supplement the chlorine readings. You will be using less stabilized product and have a slower rate of buildup. Or you might consider a salt chlorine generator. You will give this product some thought, sooner or later, as standard chlorine treatment is declining. Have fun and enjoy the season.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 4/7/2005


► Adding Stabilizer To The Skimmer?

Hi Alan. Well you are a wealth of knowledge. Thank you for your website answers. I did not see the following question and apologize if it is there and I missed it. We are to add stabilizer to our newly refilled pool. I need clarification on instructions. When they say pour directly into skimmer, is that with the basket in place? The stabilizer does not seem to dissolve much at all in the bucket of water. How slowly is "slowly add"? We are to add 4 pounds and the little I put in just seems to sit in the basket. Thank you.

Becky B., Edgewater, Florida., 3/13/2009

If you would have poured all of the stabilizer into the skimmer, most likely it would have clogged the lines. It is slow dissolving and will not dissolve in a bucket of water. It helps to have a lot of water flowing over the material to get it to dissolve even slowly. Remove the basket and slowly pour in no more than 8 ounces. Once it all disappears, wait a few minutes and repeat, until it is all added. I hope that I have been helpful.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 3/13/2009

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