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Problem-Solving Information, in a question and
Fixing Chips, Dings and Cracks In The Gelcoat?
Hi Allan, I Would like to know
if there is a product for repairing chips or cracks in the
gel coat of my spa.
Boxer Adhesives has an underwater epoxy that
will work. It cures to a white finish. Avoid using
silicone caulk, as that will interfere with any
painting, that you might consider. You could
make the necessary repair and then paint the spa.
Ultra Poly One
Coat would be an ideal product. It is glossy and
shiny and quite attractive. It is supplied with a
non-slip additive, for use on steps and other
potentially problematic areas. Best wishes for
the New Year.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 11/3/2016
► Rail Is
We have a swim spa that is inground.
It is only a year old. The stainless steel rail seems to
require cleaning, as it becomes noticeably discolored or
stained, after a month or so. I use an ozonator and a low
level of stabilized chlorine. I ordered a
from your website, to make sure that the chemistry is well
maintained. I think that I have done a good job and have
never had algae or mold problems. Any ideas?
Jerry H., Boynton Beach, FL, 12/22/2013
Make sure the calcium hardness is in the 200-250 PPM range.
Soft water tends to be more corrosive and this might help.
Low-grade stainless steel could be an issue. These stainless
steel parts used to be made in the USA. Now they come from
Asia and might not be equal in quality, to the former USA
made equivalent. There are rails, ladder and steps made from
composite materials, that are better able to resist the
problematic effects of corrosion. These composite products
are easy to maintain and do not require grounding, making
installation less complicated. Corrosion, due to high
total dissolved solids (TDS) could be a factor.
The addition of a
sacrificial zinc anode, can help protects
against metal corrosion. It is simply plumbed
in-line and attached to the spa's ground, with the
line provided. Nothing has to be adjust or
monitored. The zinc will dissolve, instead of
the other metals, which is why it is called a
sacrificial anode. I hope that I have been of assistance.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 12/23/2013
We have a spa and notice a yellow
substance on sides on the wall at the waterline- it feels
sticky and smears like grease- we were told it was mustard
algae- so we treated for mustard algae - now it has turn
blue green - we have purge the spa and now are back to the
yellow substance at water line - HELP - want to get back to
enjoying the spa.
Bobby B., 8/29/2016
Whomever told you it was mustard algae has probably never
seen it. Mustard algae is pollen like and brushes easily.
That is not what you are describing. It sounds like an
accumulation of body oils, cosmetic residues and other
organic products. Try using an enzyme cleaner to scrub the
walls. Adding a weekly dose of a spa formula enzyme
additive, could help minimize accumulations. Enzymes tend to
decompose organic matter and should make a difference, over
time. I hope that this helps get you back into hot water. As
always, make sure the sanitizer levels are optimum.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 8/30/2016
► Cleaning A
Spa Filter Cartridge?
What's the best way to clean a spa
filter cartridge. And how often?
Jessica, Tampa, FL, 2/6/2014
There are Spa Filter Cleaning Products available: these
products are usually acidic, detergent solutions. Hose the
cartridge off to remove hair and other debris. The cartridge
should be immersed in a plastic container (5-gallon pails
are perfect) containing water and some of the cartridge
cleaner. Follow directions, as to duration, etc. If the
container isn't deep enough, turn the cartridge over to
immerse the other end. Hose off to remove all traces of the
cleaner when finished. The easiest way to clean a cartridge
filter is with The Blaster Automatic
Filter Cartridge Cleaner. It attaches to a garden hose and
automatically and thoroughly cleans cartridge filters. How
often the cartridge should be cleaned will depend upon the
water chemistry and the amount of bather wastes. Any time
that the return flow seems weak is a good time to clean the
cartridge. Otherwise, every month or so and whenever the
water is replaced. Enjoy the spa. I hope that I was helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 2/6/2014
► Spa Water
I have been losing about 2 inches of water loss per week in
my 375 gallon spa. It is outdoors and it has been cold. I
have a good thermal cover. Is this a reasonable water loss
or could I have a leak? Thanks.
Tina, T, Mt Sinai, NY, 12/26/2010
I don't recall ever seeing specific water loss figures, for
a spa that remains properly covered, except for periods of
actual usage. It seems to be beyond what should result from
evaporation. An inch of water loss could amount to 10-20
gallons. I suggest that you double check for proper thermal
cover sealing. Look for evidence of a leak, such as
puddling or wet insulation. If you conclude that there is a
probable leak, it may be possible to seal the leak, using
Fix A Leak. It should be easy to use and works well,
at sealing small spa leaks. Good luck.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 12/26/2010
► No More
I've been reading e-mails from others
on your website and have a similar rash problem. My wife
developed a rash within the first week after we got our spa.
When she stays out of the spa for a few days it starts to go
away, but it comes right back within hours of using the spa
again. She had this same problem years ago when she
life-guarded at a pool where Bromine was used, so I think
she is sensitive to either Bromine or a byproduct. Since we
have a ozonator, and I see you have suggested an ionizer or
mineral sanitizer, could you tell me what they are, how they
work, and how are they installed? I really need to find a
way to eliminate the Bromine, and I really don't like
Wayne S., 10/30/2009
The fact that the rash is affecting your wife and not
yourself, indicates the cause is sensitivity to a chemical
and not necessarily due to poor sanitation. Ionizers and
mineral sanitizers both work by adding metallic ions to the
water. Ionizers must be plumbed inline and are electrically
controlled. Mineral sanitizers can be plumbed inline or
placed in the filter and are not electrically controlled.
Your local spa professional should be able to provide you
with either or both of these items. Used with an
it is close to a complete sanitizing system that reduces the
amount of chemicals required for overall water maintenance
and helps assure bather comfort. You'll just need a low
level of chlorine, to act as confirmation that proper
conditions exist and to act as a sanitizer backup. I hope
that I have been helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 10/30/2009
► Vacuuming A
I have a 375 gallon spa, this is
outside on a patio, finished with blocks. We have a problem
with sand getting into the spa, by being tracked in on the
soles of our feet. The filter really doesn't get this
material, as it just sits on the bottom and in the corners.
Is there an easy, inexpensive solution? We Appreciate your
M & J, Charlottesville, VA, 3/3/2008
There are two hand-held vacuums
that are battery-powered, hoseless and fully portable.
Either model will easily clean up the
bottom of the spa and is quite reasonably priced, making it
an ideal spa accessory. I hope that this information will
have for a more enjoyable hot-water experience.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 3/3/2008
► Draining A
We have a built-in spa that was here
when we bought our house several years ago. Because we did
not have it installed ourselves we have never known how to
drain it other than by bailing the water bucket by bucket.
Recently the cover was destroyed and needless to say the
rain water is intolerable to step inside to bail. The spa
has not been used in about 3 years, though it has been
emptied a couple times since then. My question is - is there
a way to pump the water out using the spa's existing pumping
system? I suspect there is some sort of escape valve or
something that would allow us to connect a hose and drain
the spa by turning on the pump and bypassing the
recirculation system. Am I right? If so, what do I look for
to connect the hose to? Thanks for your help.
Linda S., 3/27/2011
The pump and filter must be located relatively close by and
should provide access to the equipment. Look for a garden
hose attachment. There could also be another valve
associated with this discharge port, that will have to be
opened, in order to direct the water flow to waste. If there
is any doubt on your part, pay a visit to a local spa
professional. Bring the filter and pump model number. If for
any reason, it is not possible to pump out the water, using
the spa pump, there is another easy option. Many pool
dealers sell submersible cover pumps, that are used as part
of pool winterizing. You can attach a garden hose to the
pump, place it in the lowest point of the spa and it will
pump out the water. After pumping out the water, you'll have
to do some serious cleaning. I hope that I have been of
assistance. Good luck and I hope that you'll enjoy the spa.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 3/27/2011
Difficult Is Spa Maintenance?
I know a little about what's involved
in terms of pool maintenance. Spas are completely new to me.
I don't want to get involved in something that I might
regret. I got your web address from a pool owning friend.
Jerry F., Baton Rouge, LA, 12/3/2009
Spa maintenance has never been easier! Today, there are
many more choices for sanitizing. In addition to the
familiar chlorine there's:
salt chlorine generators,
bromine, ozone generators,
mineral sanitizers, ionization,
and more. It may sound complicated, but many are built-in
sanitizing systems that require very little care. The spa
already has an automatic timer and controls for the filter
and heater. A little water testing and the occasional
addition of water balancing chemicals are all that you'll
probably have to do. The
Water Analyzers have really
simplified water testing. And if you ever get stuck with a
water chemistry problem, you can email me again. When you
have a spa. getting into hot water is a good thing! Good
luck with your decision.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 12/3/2009
I seem to have a leak that allows
water to accumulate under the spa cabinet. I can't see the
source and it is not severe, but I'm afraid that given time
it will cause rotting and mildew. Any suggestions? Thank
Ted, Vermont, 2/2/2004
There is a product called FIX A LEAK that can be used to
permanently seal the leak. The product directions will
explain how it should be added to seal leaks that might be
in the plumbing, shell or installed fittings. It has been
sealing leaks since 1980. Hopefully, your problem will be
solved. I hope that I have been helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 2/2/2004
► Painting A
I moved into a new house last summer.
The previous owners had an inground Gunite spa put in a
couple of years prior to selling. The surface seems to be
very faded. I'm wondering if the coloring is part of the
gunite process or if it was painted after the spa was
constructed. If so, can I repaint the gunite and what type
of surface preparation and paint should I use? I have the
same question if the gunite is colored during the
Mark I., 4/3/2010
The term gunite actually refers to the concrete that
underlies the surface finish. The colorant is an integral
part of the plaster finish. It could have been painted
previously and could be repainted again. Close inspection
might reveal a previous painting. The surface should be
prepared, prior to painting, according to the instructions
of the paint manufacturer. Ultra Poly One Coat will work
well in this application and it is likely that only a
surface power washing will be required, as preparation.
Surface defects should be fixed prior to the painting. The
coating is a hybrid epoxy and is easier to apply, requiring
only a single coat and no primers or sealers. It features a
15-year warranty. I hope that I have been of assistance.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 4/3/2010
We live in southern California, have
an inground plastered spa that is about 14 years old. I have
received several estimates to have it replastered and
tiled to the tune of $3500-4000. Is there any alternative to
replastering? We don't plan on living here for more than two
years and don't won't to make that big of investment. I've
enclosed a picture so that you can see the spa. Is there any
other coating or something that my do-it-yourself husband
could try? Thanks.
Sharon L., California, 10/17/2006
You could have the spa painted with Ultra Poly One Coat for
a fraction of that quote. A properly painted spa will be
easier to maintain than a plastered one. The chemistry will
be more consistent and there will be fewer places for the
algae to hide. There are lots of paints out there. Some need
all sorts of preparation. Others can't be applied, if the
humidity is above a certain level - which probably won't
happen during the summer months. Some paints need several
coats. Not everyone takes the time to do it right and the
result could a poor job. A contractor can skimp and offer a
lower price. Not really a bargain, if the spa does not look
as it should. Ultra Poly One Coat is a high performance,
hybrid -epoxy formula that only requires a single coat. It
is very durable and long lasting. Surface preparation
consists of a cleaning with a citrate solution and then a
power washing. Humidity is not an issue and no primers or
top coats are required. I hope that this information will
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 10/18/2006
We have a large hot spa and the cover
is really a handful to manage. If it was a must to have one,
I would gladly get rid of it. But, I realize that
evaporation and heat loss would lead to a host of problems
and expenses. What is an easy, affordable solution.
Brenda J., Greensboro, NC, 1/4/2009
Not having a cover is not an option. The best thing is to
use something that will make it easier to remove and replace
the cover. A spa cover lifter is just what you are looking
for. There is a model with features that make it easier to
open the spa and easy to cover it. And is space is tight,
the good news is that it only requires about 6" of space.
For more information, please visit the
Stuff for Spas Store. I am
sure that this will solve the problem and make the hot water
experience even better.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 1/5/2009
Something About That Ugly Cover?
I love the way my spa cover lifter
works. Even my wife has no difficulty opening the spa. What
I don't like is the ugly look of the cover, in the lifted
position. Is there another type of cover or a way to hide it
Austin T., Apex, NC, 2/13/2012
I agree that a spa cover lifter does a great job and makes
it much easier to use the spa. Actually, someone thought up
the idea of attaching a graphic design to the exposed,
lifted underside. Now you can look at lush greenery, palms
trees, sunsets and more. Adding an easy-to-install
Scenic Graphic will transform the look of the spa. All the
better to enjoy the experience.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 2/14/2012
► Repairing A
I noticed a slight crack on the side
of my spa. It is part of a pool/spa combination that is
about 10 years old. I had everything painted about 1 year
ago. Other than this everything looks good. Any advice?
Barry F., Boynton Beach, FL 2/3/2005
There are several ways to do this. In the simplest case, you
can use an epoxy repair material and seal the area. Don't
use silicone, as it might not allow repainting.
Aesthetically, it make not be the most attractive repair.
You could chip out the crack, seal and fill in the chipped
out area, with epoxy. The problem with this approach is that
the crack can expand and the problem will grow bigger. To
prevent a structural crack from expanding, you can use
Torque-Lock. It use a staple-like part to hold the opposite
together by application of torque. In has to be countersunk.
Afterwards, the void can be filled in with epoxy. Paint to
complete the job. Good luck and I hope that this information
proves to be useful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 2/3/2005
My spa has oily, greasy, deposits
around the water line and skimmer. Any suggestions about
what it is and what to do?
Jim I., San Mateo, CA, 3/29/2013
Body oils and cosmetic residues are the likely source.
Chemical byproducts can react with these residues, as well
as waste products and form water line deposits. Various spa
cleaning products are available to help clean these areas.
The best products are those that are formulated not to cause
foaming. Some of the cleaning products contain enzymes to
help with the removal. In addition, there are Enzyme
Products that can be added directly to the spa water and
will help digest and decompose oily, organic residues. Good
luck. Enjoy the spa.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 3/29/2013
Great site! I have a gunite pool and
spa. When I opened this spring I noticed a "ring" stain in
the spa at the water-level. There is no stain at the water
level in the pool - only the spa. I tried vitamin C tablets,
Chlorine and a stain remover liquid, but to no avail. Can
you help? Thanks.
Brian, Philadelphia, PA, 05/02/2005
Possibly the ring is due to the deposition of oily residues,
body oils, cosmetic residues and fragrance products, that
accumulated during the past season and have now have shown
up after the winter. What you tried covered a broad range of
possibilities. I suggest that you add an enzyme product and
give it some time. This ring is probably organic in nature
and the enzyme should help digest it over a period of time.
Let me know how it turns out. Good luck.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 5/3/2005
I have a customer that we delivered a
brand new spa to in June. They were quite faithful in
bringing in their water for testing with our WaterLink Lab.
There was a time for two months in which we did not see
them. When they did come in, at the beginning of the month,
their spa was horrifying. I sent someone over to take a look
at it and he said it looked like there were large pieces of
skin floating around. When you took these pieces out, they
shriveled up and were quite slimy. We then did a whirlpool
rinse on the spa, not once but twice, gave it a good shot of
chlorine shock, and then drained it twice. And again upon
refilling it, these large pieces came back. Just so you
know, that when I did the test the readings were as follows.
Bromine was zero, pH was 7.1, calcium was 180, and the
alkalinity was zero. This customer also has ozone. Any ideas
what this might be? Thank you.
Dawn P., Penticton, B.C., 11/28/2007
I hope that they weren't using the spa. What you are
describing is probably a film of bacteria and other
microorganisms. Most likely all of the underwater surfaces
were coated with this biofilm. It is the product of
prolonged inadequate sanitation. It is consistent with a
zero bromine reading. The problem lies not with the test
results, but with the lack of customer-performed
maintenance! Given the severity of the problem it is
probable that the filter was not operated and, therefore,
there was no ozone being produced. You need to refill the
spa and add chlorine to a level of 5-10 PPM. Keep the water
recirculating and make sure you are able to detect FREE
CHLORINE after 24 hours. If not, add more chlorine. Once a
stable chlorine level is attained, the spa should be
drained, cleaned and refilled. Start off with a dose of
shock and begin normal maintenance. In this case, I would
make sure that they are instructed, as to what should be
done. Make sure that the ozonator is working properly. They
should maintain 1-3 PPM of bromine, as well, to act as a
backup sanitizer. Good luck and I hope this information will
prove helpful. Your intentions were certainly good.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 11/28/2007
I’m having trouble converting chemical
grams to measurements that I can make, for instance – I need
to put 10 grams of cartridge cleaner per litre of water and
I don’t have scales. I use tablespoons and teaspoons for all
other gear. How many teaspoons would 10 grams be? I also use
a tablespoon of lithium hypochlorite each time we use the
spa (it has an ozonator), and once a week dose it with a
capful from the chlorine container. This seems to do the
trick, but I’d feel better knowing that I have exact
Jill, Australia, 12/14/2007
Different chemicals have different bulk densities and a
teaspoon could contain a very different weight. A teaspoon
contains 5 ml. That could amount to about 5 grams, if the
material had the approximate density of table salt. So far
as the additions of chlorine are concerned, you need to add
enough to maintain a free chlorine level of 1-3 PPM. How
much will be required will depend upon the product added,
the size of the spa and how your particular spa is used.
Because you have an ozonator, you will need less chlorine,
as the ozone is providing oxidation and helping to save the
chlorine. Test the water for free chlorine and let that be
your guide, as to whether enough chlorine has been added. I
hope that this information will prove helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 12/15/2007
Alan, we have had our hot tub about 5
years and it now has a dull stain around the water level.
Cleaning will not take it off - it has worn off the finish.
Is there a way to repair or cover this ring? Thanks for your
R K., Sunapee, NH, 1/31/2009
There are means to refinish fiberglass or acrylic spas.
Epoxy, PVC and other coatings can be used to resurface a
spa. It is very common in swimming pools. I suggest that you
consult the local phone directory and look under pool
resurfacing. A local spa professional might be able to
suggest a company. Always check references and ask to see a
sample of the end product. If you would like to save money,
by doing it yourself, I suggest
Ultra Poly One Coat. This is
a hybrid-epoxy coating, that is easy to prep and apply. Good
luck and I hope that the suggestion will prove helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 2/1/2009
► Painting A
I'm struggling about something. You've
given me advice on stains before that were very helpful. It
now seems, according to our pool person, that some metal spa
stains will not come out of our spa at the waterline and
we're considering painting the spa. Some questions:
1. Is it true, first of all, that some metal stains will
not/cannot come out of fiberglass?
2. You recommend the Ultra Poly One Coat vs. other paints.
Firstly, it's hard to believe that Ultra Poly One Coat is a
better product. Some advertise 8 years, one dealer thought
I'd get about 5 years with a popular paint, before some
peeling, given the high heat of the spa. Would I really get
15 years with Poly? That's an INCREDIBLE difference.
Secondly, if it really is a better product, I struggle
because their colors are so limited and my wife does not
really like their "pool blue". If you really do recommend
it, do you know of any pictures of pool blue being used on a
pool or spa that I could show her. Thanks, so much.
Some stains are tough! Try scrubbing the stain, with a few
wet vitamin tablets. If this works, you should be able to
remove the stains using MetalTrap Stain Remover. Have you
tried an acidic cleaner or an enzyme? Painting a spa is far
less common than a pool. From what I have seen,
One Coat, is about as good as it gets. I think it looks more
like a ceramic glaze. The colors may be limited, but custom
colors are available. So far as pictures are concerned, give
Colleen, at Poly Solutions, Inc, a call at: 724 449-1040. Good luck and I hope that I
have been of assistance.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 1/15/2007
Dear Alan. You have been so helpful
with my new spa, thanks to you I know what clear water can
look like. However I recently discovered that although my
manual says the default factory filtration setting allows
four hours a day of filtration, the manufacturer put a new
chip in the new models (mine) and maximum filtration is two
hours a day, 20 minutes every 6 hours. I'm told that I could
have the old chip put back if I so request. Is two hours
filtration enough for a 320 gallon spa, used daily by one
person and occasionally by two? Or should I request that
original chip? Thanks again. Best regards.
Marilyn R., 6/24/2010
Years ago, I ran the filter for 4, 2-hours periods, so that
the ozonator would be operated for enough time. Today many
spas have ozonators that are operated by a separate
low-speed pump, on a continuous basis. That being the case,
the filter is operated only for the water quality function.
I'll defer to the good judgment of the manufacturer, as your
usage should not place any extraordinary demands upon the
filtration system. Enjoy the spa.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster. 6/24/2010
► Stuff On
I find sandy stuff on the bottom of
the spa. I think that it is being brought into the spa on
the bottom of the feet. Shouldn't the filter remove this
stuff? Thank you.
Amanda B., 12/5/2006
If it is sand, concrete dust and other mineral debris, it is
heavy enough to quickly sink to the bottom. The filter
intakes are not located on the bottom and may not be able to
remove heavy particles. You may just have to remove these
particles by vacuuming. There are convenient
battery powered vacuums that will help remove the bottom
debris. I hope that I have been of assistance.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 12/5/2006
► When Should
Water Be Changed?
We change our spa water every other
month. It is used by 2 adults, 3-4 times a week.
Occasionally, some additional adults use the spa. It has an
Ozonator and I add some bromine tablets, to a floating
feeder. The water looks good - even when I change it. Are we
changing the water too often or not often enough? I
appreciate your help.
Bill P., Moline, IL, 12/2/2009
Every other month seems quite reasonable. Considering that
the water quality is good, even after two months, it would
seem that you are acting with caution and common sense.
Better to change the water more often than not often enough.
The usage a spa gets and the quality of the fill water do
affect how often the water should be replaced. When water
quality is becoming more difficult to maintain, that should
signal a time for a cleaning and a refill. In any event, I
would not suggest going more than 3 months, under any
circumstances. If your dealer can perform a
TDS Test, there
is a very scientific way to determine when to change the
water. Replace the water when the TDS rises 1500 PPM above
that of the water used to fill the spa, unless there is a
loss of water clarity and quality or the spa water is more
than 3 months old. It was a good question! Thanks for
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 12/2/2009
► Why Change
I haven't changed the spa water in
over six months. It looks perfectly clear. Do I really have
to change the water? Wondering!
J. L., 4/23/2010
The longer you go without changing the water the more likely
it is that you will end up with a sanitizer resistant
microorganism. The longer you go without replacing the
water, the higher the dissolved solids will buildup and the
more likely it will be that you will end up with clarity
problems, loss of sanitizer effectiveness and loss of heater
and filter efficiency. Even though you haven't told me very
much about your spa or how it is used, these statements
still apply. I would never recommend keeping the water for
more than three months. It's just not worth it! I hope that
I have been convincing.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 4/23/2010
► Time To
Alan, I am property manager for a home
owner who has a 1000 gallon inground spa that developed a
severe water leak around the main drain . I drained the spa
and after locating the leak in preparation of repairing the
leak. It took me a couple of days to dig down to the main
drain line and underneath the spa to expose the main drain
fitting to confirm the leak source. Unfortunately the
weather changed to freezing after I drained the spa and made
sure all the water lines were clear. The surface has
developed several surface fissures in it causing the marble
dust toweled finish to flake off. Some of these areas are 3
to 4 inches wide and several inches long. My question is how
can I retrowel these areas with similar material. I have
contacted the original Install contractor and he informed me
that I was on my one because the owner never let them do the
bread & butter service, opening and closing work. The spa is
a gunite 20 person unit with a marble dust mixture troweled
finish 10 years old. I have contacted several pool and spa
companies with all stating they could give no advice. Do you
know what might have been used in the mixture for the finish
besides the marble dust? I removed one of the bad areas, and
to me it looks like it might be silica sand with some kind
of binder material, then the marble dust was broadcast over
that to give it a very sparkly finish.
Carl U., 3/10/2005
If you want the spa looking like it should, I don't see any
choice other than refinishing. Plastering mixtures usually
contain about 1 part white Portland cement and 2 parts
marble dust, aggregates, color particles, etc. After 10
years, it would be difficult to match the look, under any
circumstances. Sorry that I couldn't be more helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 3/11/2005
Chemicals In A Spa?
We have an inground pool and are
wondering if we can use some of the same chemicals in our
spa? We use a stabilized chlorine in an auto feeder and the
usual chemicals. Our water supply is excellent and has not
caused any pool problems. Thank you.
Carole C., 9/23/2004
Some pool chemicals can be used in a spa. The problem is in
knowing which ones. For instance, the product that you are
using in the automatic chlorinator should NOT be used in a
spa: it would dissolve too quickly in the spa's warm water
and is too acidic. The product that you are using to raise
the pH should be usable, but in very small amounts. Many spa
chemicals appear to be similar to pool chemicals, but are
actually formulated differently, so as not to have an major
impact upon the pH and the spa water chemistry. There are
differences from brand to brand. My advice would be to use a
Spa Formula Product to be sure. Have fun in the spa!
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 9/24/2004
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