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"Spa Maintenance Problems"
Proper
maintenance reduces the down time and protects the spa.
The Pool & Spa Informational Website
askalanaquestion.com |
Suggestions & Solutions
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Scroll down to browse
through some archived SPA & HOT TUB questions and answers.
Please access the Spa Problems Page and other links, at the top of
every page, for additional information.
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Spas and hot tubs require
routine care and periodic maintenance, in order to preserve or restore the
aesthetics and maintain good operating conditions. Some products,
are available, that can help with the chores and are worthy of consideration.
Clicking
on the underlined and highlighted "keywords" or "catch phrases," in
the archived answers will give you access to additional information on that topic or
product.
Please refer to the Glossary, if
there are terms or phrases that require explanation.
Click any image for more product
or ordering information.
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More information about The
Magnetizer Water Conditioner can be found by clicking on the center image,
above. This magnetic device uses no power and straps around the
return line, creating an effect that helps control scaling, calcium hardness
problems and produces other
water quality benefits. More
information, about some new & unique spa products, can be found by visiting
The Website Stores.
You'll never know what you'll find and that's
always fun.
Be better prepared and avoid costly problems!
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►
Cleaning A Spa Filter Cartridge?
What's the best way to clean a spa filter cartridge.
And how often?
Jessica, Tampa, FL,
12/6/2008
There are Spa Filter Cleaning Products
available: these products are usually acidic, detergent solutions. Hose the
cartridge off to remove hair and other debris. The cartridge should be immersed in a
plastic container (5-gallon pails are
perfect) containing water and some of the cartridge
cleaner. Follow directions, as to duration, etc. If the container isn't deep
enough, turn the cartridge over to immerse the other end. Hose off to remove all
traces of the cleaner when finished. The easiest way to clean a
cartridge filter with
The Blaster.
It attaches to a garden hose and automatically and thoroughly cleans cartridge
filters.
How often the cartridge should be cleaned will
depend upon the water chemistry and the amount of bather wastes. Any time that the
return flow seems weak is a good time to clean the cartridge. Otherwise, every month
or so and whenever the water is replaced. Enjoy the spa. I hope that I was
helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
12/6/2008
► Spa Water Loss?
I have
noticed approx. 3 inches of water loss per week in my 400 gallon hot tub. It is
outdoors and it has been cold. I have a good cover. Is this normal water loss
or could it be a leak? Thanks.
Rich ,
12/26/2003
I don't recall ever seeing
figures for water loss for a spa that remains properly covered, except for
periods of actual usage. From my own experience, it seems to be well
beyond what should result from evaporation. Depending upon the size and
shape of the spa, an inch of water loss could amount to 10-20 gallons. I
suggest that you double check that the cover is sealing reasonably well and then
start looking for evidence of a leak. In the final analysis, if you
conclude that there is a probability of a leak, it may be
possible to seal the leak, but you have to locate it. You might consider calling in a
leak detection specialist.
For more product information and for a dealer locator, go to:
www.poolleak.info Good luck.
Sincerely. Alan
Schuster, 12/26/2003
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No More Chemicals?
I've been reading e-mails from
others on your website and have a similar rash problem. My wife developed a rash
within the first week after we got our spa. When she stays out of the spa for a
few days it starts to go away, but it comes right back within hours of using the
spa again. She had this same problem years ago when she life-guarded at a pool
where Bromine was used, so I think she is sensitive to either Bromine or a
byproduct. Since we have a ozonator, and I see you have suggested an ionizer or
mineral sanitizer, could you tell me what they are, how they work, and how are
they installed? I really need to find a way to eliminate the Bromine, and I
really don't like Chlorine either.
Wayne S., 10/30/2009
The fact that
the rash is affecting your wife and not yourself, indicates the cause is
sensitivity to a chemical and not necessarily due to poor sanitation.
Ionizers and
mineral sanitizers both work by adding metallic ions to the water.
Ionizers must be plumbed inline and are electrically controlled. Mineral
sanitizers can be plumbed inline or placed in the filter and are not electrically
controlled. Your local spa professional should be able to provide you with
either or both of these items. Used with an
ozonator, it is close to a complete
sanitizing system that reduces the amount of chemicals required for overall
water maintenance and helps assure bather comfort. You'll just need a low
level of chlorine, to act as confirmation that proper conditions exist and to
act as a sanitizer backup. I hope that I have been helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 10/30/2009
►
Vacuuming A Spa?
I have a 375 gallon spa, this
is outside on a patio, finished with blocks. We have a problem with sand
getting into the spa, by being tracked in on the soles of our feet. The
filter really doesn't get this material, as it just sits on the bottom and in
the corners. Is there an easy, inexpensive solution? We Appreciate
your help.
M & J, Charlottesville, VA, 3/3/2008
There is a hand-held vacuum
that is battery-powered, hoseless and fully portable.
It will easily clean up the bottom of the spa and is quite reasonably priced,
making it an ideal spa accessory. I hope that this information will have
for a more enjoyable hot-water experience.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 3/3/2008
|
Go
cordless and get the job done easily!!! |
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Draining A Spa?
We have a
built-in spa that was here when we bought our house several years ago.
Because we did not have it installed ourselves we have never known how to
drain it other than by bailing the water bucket by bucket. Recently the
cover was destroyed and needless to say the rain water is intolerable to step
inside to bail. The spa has not been used in about 3 years, though it
has been emptied a couple times since then.
My
question is - is there a way to pump the water out using the spa's existing
pumping system? I suspect there is some sort of escape valve or something
that would allow us to connect a hose and drain the spa by turning on the pump
and bypassing the recirculation system. Am I right? If so, what do
I look for to connect the hose to? Thanks
for your help.
Linda S.,
3/27/2003
The
pump and filter must be located relatively close by and should provide access
to the equipment. Look for a garden hose attachment. There could
also be another valve associated with this discharge port, that will have to
be opened, in order to direct the water flow to waste. If there is any
doubt on your part, pay a visit to a local spa professional. Bring the
filter and pump model number. If for any reason, it is not possible to
pump out the water, using the spa pump, there is another easy option.
Many pool dealers sell submersible cover pumps, that are used as part of pool
winterizing. You can attach a garden hose to the pump, place it in the
lowest point of the spa and it will pump out the water. After pumping
out the water, you'll have to do some serious cleaning. I hope
that I have been of assistance. Good luck and I hope that you'll enjoy
the spa.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 3/27/2003
►
How Difficult Is Spa Maintenance?
I know a little about what's involved in terms of
pool maintenance. Spas are completely new to me. I don't want to get involved
in something that I might regret. I got your web address from a pool owning friend.
Thank you.
Jerry F., Baton Rouge, LA,
12/3/2004
Spa
maintenance has never been easier!
Today, there are many m ore choices for sanitizing. In addition to the familiar
chlorine there's: bromine,
ozone generators,
mineral sanitizers, ionization,
UV
sanitizers and more. It may sound
complicated, but many are built-in sanitizing systems that require very little care.
The spa already has an automatic timer and controls for the filter and heater.
A little water testing and the occasional addition of water balancing chemicals are
all that you'll probably have to do.
Test Strips have really simplified water testing. And if you ever get stuck with a water
chemistry problem, you can email me again. When you have a spa. getting into hot
water is a good thing! Good luck with your decision.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
12/3/2004
►
Leaking Spa?
I seem to have a leak that allows water to accumulate
under the spa cabinet. I can't see the source and it is not severe, but
I'm afraid that given time it will cause rotting and mildew. Any
suggestions? Thank you.
Ted, Vermont, 2/2/2004
There is a product called
FIX
A LEAK that can be used to permanently seal the leak. The
product directions will explain how it should be added to seal leaks that might
be in the plumbing, shell or installed fittings. It has been sealing leaks
since 1980. Hopefully, your problem will be solved. I hope that I
have been helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
2/2/2004
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Painting A Spa?
I moved into a new house last summer. The
previous owners had an inground Gunite spa put in a couple of years prior to
selling. The surface seems to be very faded. I'm wondering if the coloring
is part of the gunite process or if it was painted after the spa was
constructed. If so, can I repaint the gunite and what type of surface
preparation and paint should I use? I have the same question if the gunite
is colored during the construction. Thanks!
Mark I., 4/3/2004
The term
gunite actually refers to the concrete that underlies the surface finish.
The colorant is an integral part of the plaster finish. It could have
been painted previously and could be repainted again. Close inspection
might reveal a previous painting. The surface should be prepared, prior
to painting, according to the instructions of the paint manufacturer.
Ultra Poly One Coat
will work well in this application and it is likely that only a surface power
washing will be required, as preparation. Surface defects should be fixed
prior to the painting. The coating is a hybrid epoxy and is easier to
apply, requiring only a single coat and no primers or sealers. It features
a 15-year warranty. I hope that I have been
of assistance.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
4/3/2004
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Refinishing Choice?
We live in southern California, have an
inground plastered spa that is about 14 years old. I have received several
estimates to have it replastered and tiled to the tune of $3500-4000. Is
there any alternative to replastering? We don't plan on living here for more
than two years and don't won't to make that big of investment. I've enclosed
a picture so that you can see the spa. Is there any other coating or
something that my do-it-yourself husband could try? Thanks.
Sharon L., California, 10/17/2006
You could have the spa painted with
Ultra Poly
One Coat for a fraction
of that quote. A properly painted spa will be easier to
maintain than a plastered one. The chemistry will be more
consistent and there will be fewer places for the algae to
hide. There are lots of paints out there. Some need all sorts
of preparation. Others can't be applied, if the humidity is
above a certain level - which probably won't happen during the
summer months. Some paints need several coats. Not everyone
takes the time to do it right and the result could a poor job.
A contractor can skimp and offer a lower price. Not really a
bargain, if the spa does not look as it should.
Ultra Poly One Coat is a high performance, hybrid -epoxy
formula that only requires a single coat. It is
very durable and long lasting. Surface preparation consists of
a cleaning with a citrate solution and then a power washing.
Humidity is not an issue and no primers or top coats are
required. I hope that this information will prove useful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 10/18/2006
►
Cover Is Looking Real Bad?
We have a spa sitting on a patio, outside of our
family room. It is affected by the weather and is now 3 years old.
The cover has faded and looks pretty ugly, although it still performs its role
as a thermal cover. Is there a way to bring the cover back to a better
appearance, so it isn't such an eyesore? Thanks.
Nancy H., Springfield, VA, 12/18/2008 
If there is a product that
can be applied to the existing thermal cover, I am unaware of it.
However, there is a simple solution. There are
spa slip covers
that you can use to cover the existing cover. There are several types and
they can be sized to fit your spa cover. One is a nylon slip cover, in an
assortment of colors. It is attractive, but is not meant for permanent
use. A variation of this slip cover can be decorated with a college
logo. The availability list is small, but will grow, with time. Either one
can be use, when guests are over, to improve the look. Another High
Protection cover is more weather-resistant and can be left on year round.
It will improve the look and help the thermal cover last longer. I hope
that this information will be helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster
12/18/2008
►
Removing The Cover?
We have a large hot spa and the cover is really a
handful to manage. If it was a must to have one, I would gladly get rid of
it. But, I realize that evaporation and heat loss would lead to a host of
problems and expenses. What is an easy, affordable solution. 
Brenda J., Greensboro, NC, 1/4/2009
Not having a cover is not an
option. The best thing is to use something that will make it easier to
remove and replace the cover. A
spa cover lifter
is just what you are looking for. There is a model with features that make
it easier to open the spa and easy to cover it. And is space is tight, the
good news is that it only requires about 6" of space. For more
information, please visit
The Website Store.
I am sure that this will solve the problem and make the hot water experience
even better.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
1/5/2009
► Spa Cover Is Moldy?
The underside of my spa cover seems to get moldy. I
have to resort to laundry bleach to get rid of the stuff and remove the odor.
Got a better suggestion.
Debbie R., Edison, NJ 1/31/2010
Unfortunately, you sanitize the water,
but the condensate on the underside of the cover is not contacting the water.
Mold and mildew are often the result and your solution is one that will work.
At least for a while. A better, longer
term solution involves some new technology, as opposed to chemical treatment.
The NanoSpray can provide protection, for as long as 12 weeks, without having to
resort to harsh chemicals. The
NanoSpray contains
NanoTitanium, which activates when exposed to light. Once activated, it
oxidizes and decomposes organic matter, that is in contact. It is a safe
product to use and can help prolong the life of your cover.
I hope that this helps solve the problem.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
2/1/2010
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Cooling Off?
I have a spa and the water
gets real hot and then a week later it's only warm. I use it about
once a week. Should there be a timer to set? Or is it run only from the
cold to hot knob. Thanks for your time P.S. my cover is starting to come
apart. Could hot air be seeping out to cause this problem?
Cold In California, 1/29/2004
Most likely you have a problem
with the thermostat or the controlling devices. Most spas have a thermostat
that can be set at a particular number. The temperature is controlled by the
heating switching on according to the thermostat or a controller setting. You
need to check to make sure that the settings are correct. It is also possible
that a sudden power outage can alter the thermostat settings, dropping the
setting to the lowest number. This will prevent the heater from coming on.
Check to see what temperature the thermostat is actually set at. The display
may only show the actual water temperature. With the variety of spas and
equipment on the market, it is impossible for me to be more specific. You
should refer to the trouble-shooting guide in the owner's manual or contact the manufacturer and/or dealer, if
problems continue. The poor condition of the cover, is not the cause of the
problem. It does, however, cause heat loss and should require the heater to be
used more than necessary. I hope that I have been of help.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
1/29/2004
►
Repairing A
Crack?I noticed a slight crack on
the side of my spa. It is part of a pool/spa combination that is about 10
years old. I had everything painted about 1 year ago. Other than
this everything looks good. Any advice? Thanks.
Barry F., Boynton Beach, FL
2/3/2005
There are
several ways to do this. In the simplest case, you can use an epoxy repair material and seal the area.
Don't use silicone, as it might not allow repainting. Aesthetically, it make not be
the most attractive repair. You could chip out the crack, seal and fill in the chipped out area,
with epoxy. The problem with this approach is that the crack can
expand and the problem will grow bigger. To prevent a structural crack
from expanding, you can use
Torque-Lock.
It use a staple-like part to hold the opposite together by application of
torque. In has to be countersunk. Afterwards, the void can be filled in
with epoxy. Paint to complete the
job. Good luck and I hope that this information proves to be useful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 2/3/2005
►
Oily Residues?
My spa has oily, greasy, deposits around the
water line and skimmer. Any suggestions about what it is and what to do?
Jim I., San Mateo, CA,
3/29/2004
Body oils and cosmetic residues are the likely
source. Chemical byproducts can react with these residues, as well as waste products
and form water line deposits. Various spa cleaning products are available to help
clean these areas. The best products are those that are formulated not to cause
foaming. Some of the cleaning products contain enzymes to help with the removal.
In addition, there are Enzyme Products that can be added directly to the
spa water and will help digest and decompose oily, organic residues. Good
luck. Enjoy the spa!
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
3/29/2004
►
Water-Line Ring?
Great site! I have a
gunite pool and spa. When I opened this spring I noticed a "ring" stain in
the spa at the water-level. There is no stain at the water level in the
pool - only the spa. I tried vitamin C tablets, Chlorine and a stain
remover liquid, but to no avail. Can you help? Thanks.
Brian, Philadelphia,
PA, 05/02/2005
Possibly the
ring is due to the deposition of oily residues, body oils, cosmetic residues and
fragrance products, that accumulated during the past season and have now have
shown up after the winter. What you tried covered a broad range of
possibilities. I suggest that you add an enzyme product and give it some
time. This ring is probably organic in nature and the enzyme should help
digest it over a period of time. Let me know how it turns out. Good
luck.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 5/3/2005
►
Horrifying Spa Conditions?
I have a customer that we
delivered a brand new spa to in June. They were quite faithful in bringing in
their water for testing with our
WaterLink Lab. There was a time for
two months in which we did not see them. When they did come in, at the
beginning of the month, their spa was horrifying. I sent someone over to take a
look at it and he said it looked like there were large pieces of skin floating
around. When you took these pieces out, they shriveled up and were quite
slimy. We then did a whirlpool rinse on the spa, not once but twice, gave it a
good shot of chlorine shock, and then drained it twice. And again upon
refilling it, these large pieces came back. Just so you know, that when I did
the test the readings were as follows. Bromine was zero, pH was 7.1,
calcium was 180, and the alkalinity was zero. This customer also has ozone. Any
ideas what this might be? Thank you.
Dawn P., Penticton, B.C.,
11/28/2004
I hope that
they weren't using the spa. What you are describing is probably a film of
bacteria and other microorganisms. Most likely all of the underwater surfaces
were coated with this biofilm. It is the product of prolonged inadequate
sanitation. It is consistent with a zero bromine reading.
The problem lies not with the test results, but with
the lack of customer-performed maintenance! Given the severity of the problem it is probable that the filter was not
operated and, therefore, there was no
ozone being produced. You need to
refill the spa and add chlorine to a level of 5-10 PPM. Keep the water
recirculating and make sure you are able to detect FREE CHLORINE after 24
hours. If not, add more chlorine. Once a stable chlorine level is attained,
the spa should be drained, cleaned and refilled. Start off with a dose of shock
and begin normal maintenance. In this case, I would make sure that they are
instructed, as to what should be done. Make sure that the ozonator
is working properly. They should maintain 1-3 PPM of bromine, as well, to act
as a backup sanitizer. Good luck and I hope this information will prove
helpful. Your intentions were certainly good.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 11/28/2004
►
Measuring Small Amounts?
I’m having trouble
converting chemical grams to measurements that I can make, for instance –
I need to put 10 grams of cartridge cleaner per litre of water and I don’t have
scales. I use tablespoons and teaspoons for all other gear. How many teaspoons
would 10 grams be? I also use a tablespoon of lithium hypochlorite each time we
use the spa (it has an ozonator), and once a week dose it with a capful from the
chlorine container. This seems to do the trick, but I’d feel better knowing
that I have exact measurements. Cheers,
Jill,
Australia, 12/14/2007
Different chemicals have different bulk
densities and a teaspoon could contain a very different weight. A teaspoon
contains 5 ml. That could amount to about 5 grams, if the material had the
approximate density of table salt. So far as the additions of
chlorine are concerned, you need to add enough to maintain a free chlorine level
of 1-3 PPM. How much will be required will depend upon the product added,
the size of the spa and how your particular spa is used. Because you have
an
ozonator, you will need less chlorine, as the ozone is providing oxidation
and helping to save the chlorine. Test the water for free chlorine and let
that me your guide, as to whether enough chlorine has been added.
I hope that this information will prove helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 12/15/2007
►
Needing Resurfacing?
Alan, we have had our hot tub about 5 years and
it now has a dull stain around the water level. Cleaning will not take it
off - it has worn off the finish. Is there a way to repair or cover this ring? Thanks for your help.
R K., Sunapee, NH, 1/31/2004
There are means to refinish fiberglass or acrylic spas. Epoxy, PVC and
other coatings can be used to resurface a spa. It is very common in swimming
pools. I suggest that you consult the local phone directory and look under
pool resurfacing. A local spa professional might be able to suggest a
company. Always check references and ask to see a sample of the end product.
Good luck and I hope that the suggestion will prove helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 2/1/2004
►
Painting A Fiberglass Spa?
I'm struggling about something. You've given me advice on
stains before that were very helpful. It now seems, according to our pool
person, that some metal spa stains will not come out of our spa at the
waterline and we're considering painting the spa. Some questions:
1. Is it true, first of all, that some metal stains
will not/cannot come out of fiberglass?
2. You recommend the Ultra Poly One Coat vs. other
paints. Firstly, it's hard to believe that Ultra Poly One Coat is
a better product. Some advertise 8 years, one dealer thought I'd get
about 5 years with a popular paint, before some peeling, given the high
heat of the spa. Would I really get 15 years with Poly? That's an
INCREDIBLE difference.
Secondly, if it really is a better product, I
struggle because their colors are so limited and my wife does not really
like their "pool blue". If you really do recommend it, do you know of
any pictures of pool blue being used on a pool or spa that I could show
her. Thanks, so much.
Some stains are tough! Try scrubbing with a sock
filled with ascorbic or oxalic acids. Or rub in a few vitamin tablets.
Have you tried an acidic cleaner or an enzyme? Painting a spa is far
less common than a pool. From what I have seen,
Ultra Poly One Coat,
is about as good as it gets. I think it looks more like a ceramic glaze.
The colors may be limited, but custom colors are available. So far as
pictures are concerned, give Colleen a call at: 724 449-1040. Good
luck and I hope that I have been of assistance.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 1/15/2007
►
Filter Cycle Operation?
Dear Alan. You have been so helpful with my new spa, thanks to you I
know what clear water can look like. However I recently discovered that
although my manual says the default factory filtration setting allows four
hours a day of filtration, the manufacturer put a new chip in the new models
(mine) and maximum filtration is two hours a day, 20 minutes every 6 hours.
I'm told that I could have the old chip put back if I so request. Is two
hours filtration enough for a 320 gallon spa, used daily by one person and
occasionally by two? Or should I request that original chip? Thanks
again. Best regards.
Marilyn R., 6/24/2004
Years ago, I ran the filter for 4, 2-hours periods, so that the ozonator
would be operated for enough time. Today many spas have ozonators that
are operated by a separate low-speed pump, on a continuous basis. That
being the case, the filter is operated only for the water quality function.
I'll defer to the good judgment of the manufacturer, as your usage should not
place any extraordinary demands upon the filtration system. Enjoy the
spa.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster. 6/24/2004
►
Stuff On The Bottom?
I find sandy stuff on the bottom of the spa. I
think that it is being brought into the spa on the bottom of the feet. Shouldn't the
filter remove this stuff? Thank you.
Amanda B.,
12/5/2006
If it is sand, concrete dust and other mineral
debris, it is heavy enough to quickly sink to the bottom. The filter intakes are not
located on the bottom and may not be able to remove heavy particles. You may just
have to remove these particles by hand vacuuming.
There are spa cleaning
accessories that will help remove the bottom debris. Your local spa
professional should be able to satisfy your needs. I hope that I have been of
assistance.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
12/5/2006
►
When
Should Water Be Changed?
We change our spa water every other month. It is used by 2
adults, 3-4 times a week. Occasionally, some additional adults use the spa.
It has an Ozonator and I add some bromine tablets, to a floating feeder. The
water looks good - even when I change it. Are we changing the water too often or not
often enough? I appreciate your help.
Bill P., Moline, IL,
12/2/2003
Every other month seems quite reasonable. Considering
that the water quality is good, even after two months, it would seem that you are acting
with caution and common sense. Better to change the water more often than not often
enough. The usage a spa gets and the quality of the fill water do affect how often
the water should be replaced.
When water quality is becoming more difficult
to maintain, that should signal a time for a cleaning and a refill. In any event, I
would not suggest going more than 3 months, under any circumstances. If
your dealer can perform a
TDS
Test, there is a
very scientific way to determine when to change the water. Replace the water when
the TDS rises 1500 PPM above that of the water used to fill the spa, unless there is a
loss of water clarity and quality or the spa water is more than 3 months old. It was
a good question! Thanks for writing.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
12/2/2003
|
The easy way
to help manage scale problems! |
►
Why Change The Water?
I haven't changed the spa water in over six months.
It looks perfectly clear. Do I really have to change the water?
Wondering!
J. L.,
4/23/2003
The longer you go without changing the water the more likely
it is that you will end up with a sanitizer resistant microorganism.
The longer you
go without replacing the water, the higher the dissolved solids will buildup and the more
likely it will be that you will end up with clarity problems, loss of sanitizer
effectiveness and loss of heater and filter efficiency. Even though you haven't told
me very much about your spa or how it is used, these statements still apply. I would
never recommend keeping the water for more than three months. It's just not worth
it! I hope that I have been convincing.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
4/23/2003
►
Time To Refinish?
Alan, I am property manager for a home owner who has a 1000 gallon inground spa
that developed a severe water leak around the main drain . I drained the spa and
after locating the leak in preparation of repairing the leak. It took me a
couple of days to dig down to the main drain line and underneath the spa to
expose the main drain fitting to confirm the leak source. Unfortunately the
weather changed to freezing after I drained the spa and made sure all the water
lines were clear. The surface has developed several surface fissures in it
causing the marble dust toweled finish to flake off. Some of these areas
are 3 to 4 inches wide and several inches long. My question is how can I
retrowel these areas with similar material. I have contacted the original
Install contractor and he informed me that I was on my one because the owner
never let them do the bread & butter service, opening and closing work.
The spa is a gunite 20 person unit with a marble dust mixture troweled finish 10
years old. I have contacted several pool and spa companies with all stating they
could give no advice. Do you know what might have been used in the mixture for
the finish besides the marble dust? I removed one of the bad areas, and to
me it looks like it might be silica sand with some kind of binder material, then
the marble dust was broadcast over that to give it a very sparkly finish.
Carl U., 3/10/2005
If you want the spa looking like it should, I don't see any choice other than
refinishing. Plastering mixtures usually contain about 1 part white Portland
cement and 2 parts marble dust, aggregates, color particles, etc. After 10
years, it would be difficult to match the look, under any circumstances.
Sorry that I couldn't be more helpful.
Sincerely. Alan
Schuster, 3/11/2005
►
Pool Chemicals In A Spa?
We have an inground pool and are wondering if we can
use some of the same chemicals in our spa? We use a stabilized chlorine in an auto
feeder and the usual chemicals. Our water supply is excellent and has not caused any
pool problems. Thank you.
Carole C.,
9/23/2004
Some pool
chemicals can be used in a spa. The problem is in knowing which
ones. For instance, the product that you are using in the automatic
chlorinator should NOT be used in a spa: it would dissolve too quickly in
the spa's warm water and is too acidic. The product that you are using to
raise the pH should be usable, but in very small amounts.
Many
spa chemicals appear to be similar to pool chemicals, but are actually formulated
differently, so as not to have an major impact upon the pH and the spa water chemistry.
There are differences from brand to brand. My advice would be to use a Spa Formula
Product to be sure. Have fun in the spa!
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
9/24/2004
►
Waxing A Spa?
Can I use auto wax on my spa?
Nameless,
2/4/2003
I have no idea what is in an auto wax and,
whether or not, it is suitable for use on a spa. I suggest that you use a product
especially formulated for use in a spa. Check with the spa manufacturer, as to care
recommendations. Good luck.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
2/4/2003
► Spa Water
Evaporation Or A Leak?
Hi there -
First of all, your site is full of great information. We are new spa owners and
it seems like lately I'm having to fill the spa ever couple of days because the
water level is down any where from 1-2 inches. Think we might have a leak or is
it normal evaporation? Thanks.
Deanna W.,
10/12/2004
I would not consider that
to be normal evaporation. It seems to be excessive. If you are
leaking water, you should look for signs of wetness or puddling. The other
possibility is that the spa is not tightly covered or that it is remaining
uncovered for excessively long periods of time. These are the two most
likely causes for the water loss. If it is a leak,
Fix A Leak might easily solve the problem. I hope you find the right one.
Good luck.
Sincerely. Alan
Schuster, 10/12/2004.
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More information about Pool/Spa Water Testing Products can be found in the
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