|
"Pool Water Testing Information"
Proper, reliable water testing shows you what needs to be done.
The Pool & Spa Informational Website
askalanaquestion.com |
Balancing Pool Water Chemistry
|
Scroll down to browse
through some archived SWIMMING POOL questions and answers.
Please access the Pool Problems Page and other links, at the top of
every page, for additional information.
|
Proper
pool water management starts with the analysis of the pool water. Tests
such as pH and chlorine need to be performed by the pool owner, on a
frequent or daily basis, depending upon the usage conditions. The Chlorine
test should be performed by a method that tests for Free Chlorine, as it is the
most important form. Tests such as chlorine stabilizer, total alkalinity
and calcium hardness are performed occasionally during the season and can be
performed by a pool owner or dealer. Tests for heavy metals such as iron,
manganese or copper should be performed at the beginning of the season or at the
first indications of pool water discoloration or a pool surface staining problem. These pool water tests are usually performed by
local dealers. Tests for nitrates, phosphates or Total Dissolved
Solids (TDS) are performed by some dealers, on a occasional basis, if a more
obvious explanation is lacking. Maintaining or balancing proper pool water chemistry or pool water
balancing is important
to help to minimize problems, assure optimum water quality and to maximize the ownership experience.
Clicking
on the underlined and highlighted
"keywords" or "catch phrases," in the archived answers will
give you access to additional information on that topic or product.
Please refer to the Glossary, if
there are terms or phrases that require explanation.
For an alphabetized listing
of the entire contents of the website, use the
Table of Contents link, on top of
every page.
 
( Click pictures for ordering information about all professional or
consumer testing needs. )
|
More
information about pool & spa water testing products can be found on the
LaMotte
Company Preview Page in the "Pools & Equipment" Product Information Section. Links are available to
connect you to their website.
|
►
Test Strip Reader Or A Digital
ColorQ?
Hi Alan. You have an excellent website and I appreciate the willingness to
answer questions. So here goes.
I am a new Hot Tub/Spa owner. I have been
testing with test strips that require me to evaluate the colors. I have strips
that measure Chlorine, Bromine, pH, Alkalinity and Hardness. I have
trusted the results. Lately with all of the reading I have done I have become
very fearful of my pH being out of range and thus I purchased an automatic test
strip reader. This reader has strips that measure Chlorine/Bromine as well as
pH and Alkalinity. The strips are dipped and placed face down on the reader
and the reader determines the values. The problem is that I can not get
the old method and this new reader to agree ever. I have no idea what my pH
level is because one reads 7.2 and the standard strips measure 6.0. The
strips and the strip reader are made by the same company, so there is no
compatibility issue. I realize that I could be judging the colors incorrectly,
but I don't think that I am. Which one should I trust?
I have checked
www.askalanaquestion.com/electronic_testing_meters_store.htm
for the ColorQ testers and I am wondering, if I should be returning my automatic
reader and purchasing one of these. My reader cost about $70 but I don't mind
spending more if it will read more accurately. I also found that there seems
many types of ColorQ models. Which one I should be considering. Thanks.
Dave W., 7/13/2010
Test strips are reasonably accurate,
but were never intended to be a precision test method. Some people have
difficulty picking up on subtle color differences. Using a test strip
reader sounds like a good idea and for some people, it might be.
However, from a chemist's point of view, it is adding another layer of
complexity and cannot add to the accuracy of the test results. Your own
experience bears this out. I have no way of telling you which answers
might be more reliable and you should not have to guess. If you can
return the tester, I certainly would do so. The ColorQ family of
digital water analyzers are a much better choice. There is no
color-matching or guesswork involved. You get a readout, with the
answer for as many different test factors, as that model can perform.
The ColorQ testers are simple-to-use and, yet, use the same technology
as the most sophisticated pool water testing labs. I think it sets the
standard, for the industry, with a selection of models that will suit
every pool or spa owner. For your purposes the
#2056 ColorQ PRO 7 would
be the best choice. You may not need the cyanuric acid test, but
all the others are needed, for best water management. Thanks for writing
and helping me set the record straight.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
7/13/2010
►
Test Strip Reliability?
What is the accuracy of swimming pool test strips? I
can't seem to get any of the manufacturers to send me lab data on the accuracy
of the strips.
Richard K., California, 4/23/2005
Good question!
Test
strips are not a precision laboratory means to test pool
water. They are intended to provide satisfactory and reasonably
accurate test results, with convenience and ease of use.
If the test strip reads a pH of 7.4, that should
indicate that the pH is 7.3-7.5. For swimming pool or spa use, this is not
a problem and is more than
adequate. If the Free Chlorine reads 1.0, that should indicate a
concentration close to that value. Does it matter if the true reading is
0.9 PPM or 1.1 PPM? No! It does matter, if the reading is 0.2 or
2.2 PPM. The testing of swimming pool water does not require the precision
and accuracy that one would expect of a blood or urine test. Do test
strips provide reasonably accurate and useful results? Yes! How
you take the water sample or store the test strips can affect the test results.
I have a feeling that the manufacturers were reluctant to provide the
information because they have no control over how the test is performed, the
water is sampled, the directions are followed or how the test strips were
stored. However, not all brands are the same in terms of their
formulation, manufacture or test chemistry. My own personal experience
with the product is very favorable. I hope that I have been helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 4/23/2005
Editors Note. In a follow up letter from the writer, he explained that he
was with the California Dept. of Health and that they were considering test
strip use in commercial pools. I further explained that I do not have
access to the manufacturer's data, but that the
LaMotte Insta-Test Strips have been approved, by the state of
Maryland, in the water testing of "limited use commercial pools."
|
Visit The
Test Equipment Store, for all your needs. |
►
High
Chlorine Reading?
I just put up a vinyl pool that
is 15 ft round x 3 ft high. Since I just filled it I put a packet of
Vinyl pool shock (1 lb) with the pool filter running. After a day I did
the water test and the OTO level on the tester still shows above 3 ppm and the
pH shows above 7.8. I know I can add
pH minus to reduce this, but how do I lower the latter to 3 ppm?
Thanks. L. M., Deltona, FL, 6/9/2009
You may not have
to anything about the chlorine reading. While OTO is popular, it is far
from the most meaningful test. I suggest that you try using
LaMotte
Insta-Test Strips, as they provide the right kind of information -
easily and reliably. This product tests for
Free and Total Chlorine and is a much better indication of the pool's sanitizer
level. Occasionally, to
better assure proper overall pool water chemistry, visit a pool store that has a
very reliable, professional lab such as a WaterLink or Pinpoint system, rather
than a less accurate test kit or strip reader.
To locate a dealer near you, go
to:
www.lamotte.com/pages/pool/expdeal/index.html The recommended level for Free Chlorine is 1-3 PPM and the Total
Chlorine level should not be more than 1 PPM higher. Using the pool with
very high chlorine levels can be irritating. The chlorine level will drop
over time as the pool shock reacts with algae and debris. Refer to other
sections of the archives for more information.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 6/9/2009
►
Professional Pool
Water Testing?
I OWN A RENTAL STORE AND JUST
GOT STARTED SELLING POOLS, CHEMICALS AND SUPPLIES THIS SPRING. IT HAS BEEN
GOING GREAT EXCEPT THAT I AM USING LIQUID REAGENTS TO TEST EVERYONE'S WATER.
I DON'T HAVE THE SOPHISTICATED SYSTEM THAT THE ONES IN THE BIG CITY OF KANSAS
CITY HAS. MY STORE IS 50 MILES FROM THE CITY AND I'M TRYING TO GET ALL
POOL CUSTOMERS, HERE IN RICHMOND AND LOCALLY, TO COME AND LET ME TEST THEIR
WATER. SO MY QUESTION IS ARE THE ONES UP IN THE CITY USING A WATER TEST
SYSTEM THAT YOU POUR THE POOR WATER IN IT AND YOU GET A PRINTED READ OUT AND
WHAT IS IT CALLED? THANK YOU AND LOOK FORWARD TO HEARING FROM YOU.
JULIE R., RICHMOND, MO, 4/18/2008
Not quite as
simple as pouring in some water! They are probably using a variety of
test equipment, some of which may be fairly automated. The testing results
are processed by some type of computer program. If you would like to look
into something that is highly automated, does all of the common tests and is
simple to operate, I suggest that you go to
www.lamotte.com The
LaMotte Water Link Express
laboratory virtually eliminates all the measuring and is very fast, as well as
accurate. Software is available, for use with this laboratory, to help you
draw the appropriate recommendations, from the data that is inputted. And
did I mention that you don't have to be a chemist?
Confidence in
the testing procedure is a two-way street between the dealer and the consumer.
In addition, The LaMotte Co. has a locator, on their website, that will
direct pool and spa owners to your location. I hope that you'll find a product that suits the needs of your business and your
customers. Good luck.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 4/18/2008
|
Visit The
Test Equipment Store, for all your needs. |
►
Automatic Water Analysis?
I have
recently opened a Pool & Spa Chemical Supply Shop in Perth Western Australia and
require information and relative costs etc to test our customer's pool water
samples as quickly and efficiently as possible and is available to purchase
from the USA. I hope you will be able to assist. Regards.
Brian Quinn, Perth,
Australia, 1/21/2004
There are several factors for you to consider as a pool
professional dealer. Speed: during peak season, you want to move
things along as much as possible. Thoroughness and Accuracy:
you need to do all the important tests, when required, with suitable accuracy,
from even a relatively new operator. Cost: speed and cost can go
hand in hand, to a degree. Simplicity: keeping it uncomplicated by
using dosed testing chemicals, disposable components and a minimum items that
require rinsing and cleaning for each test. Professionalism: you
need to use equipment that will instill confidence in the consumer as well as
the water tester. I suggest that you go to
www.lamotte.com
There you will find information on an extensive line of professional pool water
testing equipment, as well as costs and availability in your part of the world.
Automated is easily achieved - automatic is more difficult.
Your choice will be influenced by budget and needs. You should be able to
pick a water testing setup that meets your requirements. Good luck on the
venture.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 1/21/2004
|
Offer ends
7/31/2010 |
|
ColorQ PRO 7 |
ColorQ PRO 7 PLUS |
 |
 |
|
Was:
$135.00
Now: $125.00
Save:
$10.00 |
Was:
$165.00
Now: $153.00
Save:
$12.00 |
|
 |
►
Being Better Informed?
I just had to write to say I LOVE your website. It's keeping
me sane in my world of three competing pool dealers, with conflicting advice on
pool chemistry. Now, if only their measurements would stop conflicting, I'd be
home free.
C.P., 9/11/2007
Being better informed helps avoid falling victim to a dealer
with the wrong information or test results. Water chemistry is where it
starts! Some new testers are just available. It is the
LaMotte
ColorQ Water Analyzer.
There are 5 different models to choose from: one should be just what you
need! It includes everything that is needed. All are simple to use, hand-held, all-digital,
accurate and reliable, do all of
the important tests, require no color matching or look up charts and are
reasonably priced. In the long run, being better informed will save you
money, time and should minimize problems. I'm glad to hear that
this website has been helpful, as that is our goal.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 9/12/2007
|
Visit The
Test Equipment Store, for all your needs. |
►
Can Type Of Lighting Affect Readings?
I find the my pool water test readings,
when taken at night, seem quite different. By then the lights are
turned on. Is this possible? Thanks
Ronald L., 7/1/2007
Definitely could be
the problem. Test strips and comparator colors can be influenced
by lighting: sodium vapor lights are probably the most troublesome, by
fluorescent or dim lighting can be a factor. It is best to read under
bright natural light, without direct Sun exposure. One way to
avoid all of these problems is with the
LaMotte
ColorQ Water Analyzers. There
are several models and one would be right for your pool. I hope that
this will help provide more consistency in the testing.
Sincerely. Alan
Schuster, 7/2/2007
►
Testing For Salt?
I recently bought a Tracer PockeTester, from your website. I am quite
satisfied, with the convenience and reliability of the tester, which I use
to monitor the salt levels in the pools, on my service route, that have a
salt chlorinator. While I like the convenience of a salt chlorine
generator, I never got around to putting one on my pool, in the 3 years
since it was built. I use a combination of a trichlor feeder and
lithium shock. For no other reason, other than curiosity, I tested the
tap water and found a salt level or 600 PPM. That is not uncommon or
unexpected in this area. I then tested the pool water and found a salt
level of 2000 PPM. That came as a major surprise, since I have never
adding any salt. Is there an explanation? Stephen
S., 6/30/2010
Evaporation!!!! Finding high levels of
salt or TDS is nothing new and affects most pools, that are a few years old.
Assuming that you have a typical inground pool, you can lose 2-inches of
water a week. Possibly more, in the summer, in
a hot dry location. That 2-inch loss
represents 2-3% of the water volume, depending on the presence and size of
the hopper area. Even allowing
for rainfall to replenish 1/2 of the lose, you are still adding about 10 PPM
of salt, every time, you top off the pool, with the water containing 600 PPM
of salt. 10 PPM a week, for 3 years, and you can easily reach 2,000
PPM of salt: almost as much as some pools with salt chlorine
generators. Even pools without a salt chlorine generators
present, can have significant levels of salt and TDS. Relentlessly,
evaporation causes salt and TDS level to rise. Pump outs, splash outs and backwashing will slow
the rate of increase, However, no matter what the salt level will rise
substantially, over time, when you are dealing with water than contains 600
PPM of salt. If you were to use liquid chlorine the rate of salt
increase would be even higher. Measure your own average weekly
evaporational water loss and calculate the % lost. Multiply this by
the PPM of salt content of the new water and you have the weekly rise in
salt. You don't have to have a
salt
chlorine generator to end up
with salt in the pool. The levels are not enough to taste, so it goes
by unnoticed, so long as the overall water chemistry is good. If the
pool did have the salt chlorine generator, with water containing the
appropriate amount of salt, the levels would rise even more. Thank you
for writing an for encouraging me to put it to the numbers test.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
7/1/2010
►
Can't Add
Enough Shock?
We have shocked several times - according to instructions. Then we double
shocked. Then we double shocked 3 times in a row, 4 hours apart. Still zero free chlorine.
We are using a trichlor product. Now that we've dumped 40 lbs of shock and still have no free
chlorine. I'm getting very frustrated with "the professionals" at the pool place.
Do you have any ideas? The test results are: Free Chlorine 0, Total
Chlorine 10, pH 7.7, No Algae, Clear Water, TA 116 PPM, Calcium Hardness
244. Thank you in advance for your help. I really appreciate it.
Russell B., 6/2/2003
Your pool is
about twice the size of a typical inground pool. So keep things in perspective.
Still 40 pounds is a lot of shock and there is nothing in the water chemistry
that points to anything suspicious. Ordinarily, I would say that you
haven't added enough shock to react with all of the organic demand. That still
might be the case, however. Is there any sign of algae or slimy walls in the
deep end? If so, you need to add
shock until there is a stable reading for free chlorine.
The fact the water is clear could mean that the test materials are not working properly or that you are just at the brink of maintaining a free chlorine reading. I
suggest that you take a water sample, add a few more pounds of shock and
circulate for an hour and resample the water. Have both sample tested for free chlorine,
possibly at another dealer location. I hope that I have been helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 6/2/2003
Thanks very
much. My wife took another sample to the pool place today and they think
we "broke through the wall" as both the total chlorine and the free chlorine
now read 0. (Apparently that is a milestone.) The pH is a little off now so we are going to correct, then shock then retest.
There has been quite a bit of "material" that continues to fall out of the water - whether algae or whatever, even though the water is basically clear.
It is darkish and forms sort of wispy clump/clouds. Hopefully we are ok
now. Thanks very much for your quick response! Regards.
Russell B.,
6/2/2003
I was going to write you back because,
after speaking with someone, I realized that there is another possibility.
However, it does appear that you still have a lot of chlorine-consuming debris in the water. I assumed, that because your water was indicated as being clear, algae was not a factor. It now
seems that you must keep adding shock until the Free Chlorine level rises and remains stable. That should
coincide with removal of all the debris. Adding some "Blue Clarifier might help in debris removal. The other possibility was that the chlorine level was very high and DPD was being used to test for chlorine. DPD can "bleach out" in the presence of high chlorine levels and gives false low test results. If this is ever suspected as a possibility, you should test the water using a test strip. The
test
strips utilize Syringaldazine, instead of DPD, and are not subject to these high chlorine errors, such as I have described.
If the free chlorine levels are found to be high, it may just be a matter of
time and filtration, before the pool clears up. I hope that your problems are on the way to being solved.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 6/2/2003
► A ColorQ Digital Analyzer or a Test
Strip Reader?
I am not good at matching
colors and I like the idea of the digital ColorQ water Analyzer. I saw a
test strip reader and that seems quite easy to use. How would you compare
them? Thanks in advance, for your valued opinion.
Jerry G., Dallas, TX, 6/23/2008
Photometers, such as the
ColorQ Digital Water Analyzer
are capable of better reproducibility and accuracy than any test strip. A
quality test strip, such as the
LaMotte Insta-Test
products, are able to provide test results that are reasonably and suitably
accurate. The problem comes about in trying to match the colors to the color
swatches. Using a strip reader does not impart greater accuracy and actually
adds a few more variables. How long did you wait, before inserting the strip in
the reader? How wet was the strip? Did water run, from one test pad to
the another? What was the temperature? All of these variables, and
more, affect the test results. An instrument, such as the ColorQ, is
based on the same technology used in laboratory instruments and has a long
history of successful use. Test strip readers may be convenient and fast, but
are not capable of matching the performance of a quality photometer based
tester. The feedback about the ColorQ line of testers has been highly
favorable. The same cannot be said about dealer/consumer experience with test
strip readers. I hope that this information will help you make the
right choice.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 6/24/2008
► Questionable CYA Test Results?
First of all, thank you for
your recent advice. Like many others that have come to rely on you, I
feel I have finally found someone who can give me a credible answer to my
questions/problems. On 4 Feb I used a Stain remover to remove
light brown stains in a portion of my fiberglass pool. I followed the
process and it worked as advertised. However, I am concerned about
some dramatic changes in the chemical balance of my Pool. On 31
Jan, in preparation of my stain removal process, I had my water tested by a
local Pool Company. This test showed a CYA level @ 83 (OK for my area
of the Country) and a TA reading of 114. On 11 Feb, 3 days after completion
of the stain removal process, I had my water tested at the same Pool
Company. This test showed my CYA level @ 35 and my TA level @ 152.
My question: Is it normal for a stain removal process to cause such a
dramatic change in CYA and TA?
Unless you replaced more than 1/2 of the water, the cyanuric acid results
are questionable. There is no way that it should drop from 83 to 35 PPM,
without water replacement. One of the numbers is wrong and I suspect the
latter. If that test result is wrong, the TA could be wrong, as well.
Some dealers use test strips, for testing, which are capable of providing a
suitably accurate, but not precise test results. Using a computer to read
the test strip, does not necessarily provide greater accuracy. This could be
a case or dealer error or a bad water sample. I would encourage you
to become more self-sufficient, as it will save you money and possibly help
you avoid problems. The
LaMotte ColorQ PRO 7 Water Analyzer
performs 7 important pool steps, while eliminating color-matching, look up
charts and guesswork. And it is affordably priced! I am not sure
what was done, in the way of stain treatment, but the pH have increased and.
that would account for the higher TA, as it moves in the same direction as
the pH. To get a truer TA reading, subject 30% of the CYA reading,
from the TA test result. pH and TA are interrelated. Adjust the pH to
7.2-7.6, as needed. If the TA is under 80-120 PPM, add some TA Increaser
(baking soda). If the TA is 80-120 PPM, you're perfect. If the TA is
higher, you may not have to do anything. There is no compelling reason to
have to lower the TA, if the pH is in range and there is no sign of scaling
or cloudy water. If the calcium hardness is over 400 PPM, you might keep
the pH closer to 7.2-7.4. There's little point in trying to get both
parameters in range, when circumstances and nature are conspiring against
you. I hope that this information is helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 2/12/2008
►
Choosing
A Test Kit?
I see a lot more of
the test strips around these days. I've never used them. Are they
reliable?
Valerie S., Coram,
NY, 6/12/2003
Test strips have
come a long way in terms of reliability, accuracy and the number of different
tests that can be performed. But, they are not all the same. The
technology behind test strips is not simply impregnating a paper with some
chemicals. Choose a brand that the dealer has confidence in.
Make sure that the
Test
Strips are protected against moisture.
While all manufacturers add a drying aid to the packaged strips, a better means
of protection are the containers with a desiccant liner. All of
the test strips can test for Free Chlorine and that is an important advance.
This is the active germicidal form of chlorine and is a key test. The
older OTO test kits did not test for Free Chlorine, but tested for the less
important Total Chlorine. The convenience and lack of liquid chemicals makes
them a choice of growing popularity. Glad to be of help.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 6/12/2003
►
Trouble Dealing With The Colors?
My son has always tested our pool water, as I have trouble
trying to distinguish some of the colors. Is there a simple way to
test pool water without having to check colors? Something affordably
priced would be perfect. This fall, he will be off to college and I'll be
on my own. Thanks for the help that your website provides.
Herb K., Sarasota, FL 2/16/2005
Pool dealers have been using colorimeters to
electronically test water for years. The problem is that this type of
equipment is relatively expensive and is really only intended for high volume,
in-store testing of pool or spa owner's water. A new, reasonably priced
product is available that utilizes a
hand-held colorimeter. The
ColorQ Water Analyzer
PRO 7 Water Analyzer
measures Free & Total Chlorine, Bromine, pH and Alkalinity, Calcium Hardness
and Cyanuric Acid. It is done with a colorimeter and all you have to do is
read the answers on the large, LCD display. No colors to distinguish and
no more guesswork. Perfect for pool owners, pool servicemen, especially,
those with color vision impairments. For more information on The Hand-Held
Pool & Spa ColorQ Water Analyzers, go to:
www.lamotte.com
The proper testing of pool water enhances the ownership experience, by helping
to assure better water quality and sanitation.
I hope that I have been helpful and that this is a solution.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 2/17/2005
|
Visit The
Test Equipment Store, for all your needs. |
►
Test Reading Differences?
My pool water is a little cloudy. I tested the chlorine
and pH. Chlorine was between 0.1 and 0.4 and the pH was right on. My chlorinator is
on full. I added 3 tablets, 3 days ago. I took a sample of water into my
local pool store and they found that the free chlorine was 0 and the total
chlorine was 0.14. Why would the home test kit show that chlorine was
slightly low and the store test found 0? They told me to add some liquid
chlorine. Is it possible that the chlorinator is not working properly? Are
the chlorine tablets old? They are from last season. Why do I need to use liquid
chlorine, when I have a chlorinator? I thought the point of the chlorinator was
so you would have to keep adding liquid chlorine. Thanks.
Cindy, 6/6/2004
This is not uncommon, depending upon certain factors.
The reason being that the water sample was subject to sampling and storage
errors, contamination in the container, storage in a hot car and the passage of
time. It is important to use a clean container, sample from below the
surface, protect the sample from the effects of heat and sunlight and have it
tested on a timely basis. The difference in test reading is well within
what one might expect.
If the store showed a higher chlorine level, that would be a different matter.
Of all the tests, chlorine is the one most affected by these factors.
There is probably nothing wrong with the chlorine tablets and they told you to
add the liquid chlorine in order to quickly boost the free chlorine level.
I hope that I cleared up the mystery. Enjoy the season.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 6/7/2004
►
TDS And Salt Relationship?
We have a 44241 gallon
salt water pool. We own a meter that tells us our salt and total TDS
reading.. we have heard that our TDS reading may be a bit higher since it is
salt water... did not know if you could give us an equation that would give
us a TDS only reading. We have been told that we do not want that number to
be above 1500. Some of our swimmers are complaining of rashes and we just
want to make sure everything is ok. We do not want to have to drain the pool
if it could be avoided. Thank you.
E.M., 4/15/2010
First, you have to understand what
TDS
Testing comprises. It is
the total of all the salt added to the pool, plus all the chemicals used to
balance the pool chemistry and all of the mineral that naturally occur in
your source water. The recommended levels of salt will vary
from
salt
chlorinator manufacturer to
manufacturer and even by model. Assuming that the salt level is 3000
PPM and the TDS is 4500 PPM, that means that the TDS would have been around
1500 PPM, even if no salt was added. These values are but a fraction
of the levels in ocean water, which can be 15 timers higher than the salt
level in your pool. 1500 PPM of non-salt TDS is high and is not ideal,
as it can interfere with clarity, water quality and sanitizer effectiveness.
You need to test the tap water. In places, like Arizona, it can be
1000 PPM or more, right out of the faucet. In that case, water
replacement is not a realistic option. If the TDS is low, partial
replacement is an option. Your question refers to bathers getting
rashes. The cause of rashes is more likely to be inadequate
sanitation, too high a level of combined chlorine, too high a free chlorine
level and pH readings that are too far removed from the ideal of 7.2-7.8, as
opposed to high TDS.
Salt chlorine generators tend to cause the pH to rise, unless regular
additions of acid are made. This can lead to a loss of sanitizer
effectiveness and increase the possibility of irritation. That is
where I would look. See if there is a correlation, between the
pH and chlorine levels and the complaints. I hope that this
information will be helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 4/15/22010
►
How Often To Test Pool
Water?
I try and test the
pH and chlorine at least every other day. Is that often enough? How
often should I test for total alkalinity and chlorine stabilizer. Thank
you.
Austin H., Augusta,
GA, 8/12/2003
Testing the pH
and chlorine every other day is quite reasonable. In addition, I would
test at the first sign of a change in water quality or during periods of high
bather demand. The more important chlorine test is the
Free
Chlorine Test: free chlorine is the active germicidal form.
The total alkalinity should be tested at the start of the season, whenever there
are fluctuations in the pH and monthly during the season. The chlorine
stabilizer should be tested at the start of the season. Unless the
stabilizer level is approaching too high a value, once or twice a season is
sufficient. The balancing of the pool water chemistry will, in the long
run, solve or avoid many problems. I hope that I have been of assistance. Enjoy the season.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 8/12/2003
►
Testing For Bacteria?
I live in Boca Raton and I am looking to find a
lab to test my pool water for bacteria. Do you know any place to do that?
Thank you.
Daphne S., Boca Raton, FL,
11/5/2008
You sound
like a new pool owner? It can be done, but testing for bacteria doesn't
necessarily tell you much. It is expected that there will be bacteria present
in water that people swim in. Even bacteria, such as E. Coli, are not an issue,
so long as the numbers are within guidelines. To do that test, you would need
to be a bacteriologist, to properly interpret the results and their
significance. You are better off putting your efforts into proper
sanitation, with some backup. You could use a
salt
chlorine generator and an
ozonator
or a
mineral sanitizer
or combinations to create redundancy and assure proper sanitation. With
proper sanitation and filtration, there should be much less reason to be
concerned about bacteria. Periodically, give the pool a shock treatment,
to help prevent the development of resistant microorganisms. Proper
water chemistry is important for both water clarity, corrosion considerations,
bather comfort and for the proper action of many sanitizers. The new
ColorQ
Digital Water Analyzers can provide
all the data you need and do it without color matching or guesswork. I
hope that this information is helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 11/5/2008
►
Testing For High
Chlorine Levels?
First off, I think your site is great.
Next, my question: My pool water is crystal clear but my OTO test for chlorine
turned bright orange which I guess means the chlorine level is high. Then I
purchased a DPD test kit to test for Free chlorine. The free chlorine tested at
5 PPM. The total chlorine test was not much higher than 5 PPM. Is my free
chlorine level too high? Do I need to do something to lower it? There is no
odor and my total chlorine level doesn't appear to be too high so I assume my
combined chlorine level is not too high. What can I do?
Carlos V., El Paso, Texas, 4/21/2005
It is hard to tell if your
chlorine level is too high. OTO and DPD are not very reliable at high
levels, because the chlorine affects the test chemicals. When using DPD,
you should take the reading, as soon as possible, after adding the test
chemical. Otherwise, you may get a higher reading, as the test can
start to register chloramines, if present.
A better means of testing higher chlorine levels is
with Syringaldazine: a chemical used in some test strips such as the
LaMotte Insta-Test product. You
might stop adding chlorine and give it a day or so. Otherwise, you could
use a chlorine neutralizer product to quickly lower the level. Free
chlorine is always the more important test: OTO is not used for this test.
I hope that I have been helpful.
Sincerely. Alan
Schuster, 4/21/2005
►
Bleaching Effect On Test Strips?
I recently had the strong chlorine odor problem
followed by a cool weather streak which lead me to leave me pool cover and
neglect my normal maintenance for about two weeks. When I opened the cover,
I found the pool to be cloudy and green. I used algaecide and shock to
resolve this and put chlorine tabs in the dispenser. It took three days of
shocking to clear up the water. The chlorine reading is still so low it is not
registering on the test strip. I read that if there is too much chlorine in the
water it will have a bleaching effect on the test strip, so I took a sample of
the water and diluted it to see if I could obtain a reading. The reading was
still low. Should I shock the pool again?
Suzanne B., 9/15/2006
Test
strips, such as the
LaMotte
Insta Test strips are
one of the best ways to measure high levels of chlorine. The
bleaching effect, that you are mentioning, is more likely to
happen with OTO or DPD testers. I suggest that you add the
liquid chlorine or quick dissolving shock, about a pound/gallon
per 5,000 gallons, until the free chlorine level is over 5 PPM.
Don't drag it out! The longer it takes, the more product will
be required. Keep it there until the problem is under
control. You have green water because the sanitizer level was
inadequate and algae took hold. Check the overall water
chemistry as well. Make sure that you are testing for
FREE CHLORINE.
I hope that I have been helpful. If so, please tell your
friends about the website.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 9/15/2006
►
High Chlorine Levels
"Bleaching" Test Chemicals?
Sorry to bother you again Alan but just a
quick email to see if you can give me some info. I did a
pool course a while back and I was reading through the notes and
it said if pool chlorine reaches over 10ppm, 'bleach out' could
occur. It did not however explain what this meant, nor could I
find it on the net. Could you help with this. Many
thanks, as always.
Gareth J., UK, 11/18/2009
When the chlorine
level get too high, it can destroy the testing chemicals and
provide a false result. If you suspect that the chlorine is
over 10 PPM, try this. Mix 1 part of pool water with 2 parts of
bottled drinking water. Test immediately! Multiply by 3, to
get a reasonable approximation of the true reading. This
technique is not valid, with the other tests. For the
other tests you would have to use distilled water. pH
cannot be done, using anything but the actual water sample, but
a few drops of chlorine neutralizer can be added, before
testing. I hope this clears up the problem.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 11/18/2009
►
How Long
Do Test Strips Last?
I have some test
strips from last year. Are they still good?
Mel. T.,
Rochester Hills, MI, 5/28/2004
Maybe and maybe
not! Most test strips have an expiration date on them. If there is
no expiration date on them, don't buy them again!
In addition to paying
attention to the expiration date, you must make sure that the test strips have
been stored away from heat, moisture and light. Always
reseal the container immediately after removing a test strip and NEVER REMOVE A
TEST STRIP WITH WET FINGERS!
Moisture is the enemy of test strips and
can destroy their reliability and reduce their shelf life, regardless of the
expiration date. Closing the container can help minimize the
moisture problem. Most strips come with a silica gel packet inside and
this helps absorb some of the moisture. Even better are the
Test
Strips packaged with a desiccant liner, as a means of moisture removal.
You know how the test strips have been stored, so use this information as a
guide. In the future, follow the recommendations, as to handling and
storage between uses. I hope that I was helpful. Enjoy the summer.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 5/28/2004
►
Saturation Or Langelier Index?
Saturation index for pools?
Do you have any, where you can put the pool test results and gives you
the answer? Could you let me know? That would be great. Thanks.
Tony, 1/27/2005
There is a page on the website devoted to the calculation of the Langelier or
Saturation Index.
Just click here. I hope that the
information will prove useful
Sincerely. Alan
Schuster, 1/27/2005
►
New Pool
Owners?
Hi Alan. We recently bought a
house with an inground gunite pool. We are having a problem with what I
believe is mustard algae. After reading the questions on your website I am
confused about free chlorine tests. We bought a test kit to test chlorine
levels, but I do not know how to test for free chlorine. Please help!
No Name, 6/13/2004
I suspect that
you are using a test kit with a color block for pH and Chlorine. This
would be an OTO test kit and it does not measure for Free Chlorine: the
active germicidal form of chlorine. I suggest that you try using a test
strips. Test Strips such as the
LaMotte Insta-Strips provide test for Free and Total Chlorine and
give you a much better picture of the pool's state of sanitation. The
balancing of the pool water chemistry requires periodic testing and helps to
minimize water quality problems. For pool owners that prefer
to avoiding having to differentiate slight color differences, the new
ColorQ Water
Analyzers are just what you need. I hope
that I have been helpful. Enjoy the pool.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 6/13/2004
►
Time To Take Charge?
I have a new pool that was
completed six weeks ago. The pool is a 16,000 gallon in-ground gunite pool with
an aggregate finish and a salt system in south Florida. I had hired a pool
professional to start up my pool and maintain it, since I was told that
optimizing a new pool would be difficult. However, after five weeks I noticed
that the pool did not register any chlorine level and the pH was always above
8.2. My pool professional indicated that my test strips were not accurate and
that the pool was fine. I then proceeded to have a sample analyzed by my local
pool supply store and they concurred with my readings. At the time of testing,
the chlorine and free chlorine level was 0 ppm, chlorine stabilizer was 0 ppm,
total alkalinity was 200, pH was 8.2, TDS was 0 and calcium hardness at 40.
They indicated that I needed to get the pH down or risk scaling. Following
their instructions, I added chlorine stabilizer, put my chlorine generator on
boost mode for 24 hours and have added several gallons of muriatic acid (and
fired my pool professional). After 1 week, I have chorine levels around 3
ppm, pH has been ranging between 7.4 and 8.0, total alkalinity at 80. In order
to get the pH level down, I have been adding about a gallon of acid every other
day (not sure if adding this level of acid is recommended or not). My
problem is my pool finish. The bottom looks good; however, the walls seem to
still have a lot of “paste” that has not wore off from daily brushing to expose
the aggregate. Additionally, when I run my hand along the walls they seem
slimy. The water has always appeared to be clear. Any insights on what’s
happening?
Mike T.,
Florida, 4/6/2007
Your "pool professional" was
not very professional. and I have some doubts about the pool dealer. New gunite
pools tend to have pH readings on the high side and the us e of a salt chlorine
generator only adds to the problem. Once the walls cure and the chemistry is
optimized, it will level off. Your "pro" did not add stabilizer and that is why
your reading is zero. Or is it? The pool store has your TDS at zero and that is
impossible. It should be around 3000 PPM, in your case. A calcium hardness of 40
PPM is doubtful, as it is higher right out of your tap. The slimy feeling on the
walls is an algal or bacterial slime and is the result of inadequate sanitation
and/or circulation. It is time to take charge here and do some testing of
your own! I suggest using
LaMotte Insta-Test strips:
they are easy to use and provide the right kind of information. There are some
"questionable" strips out there, just like there are some questionable "
professionals." You need to test for free chlorine and maintain a level of
1-3 PPM. With slime on the walls, boost the level to 5-10 PPM, in order to help
destroy these deposits. Your pH should be maintained at 7.2-7.8 and adding acid
is how it should be done. A low hardness can contribute to etching, which in
turn will drive the pH up. Get the hardness to about 200 PPM. Because you have a
salt chlorine generator, I would concentrate on the pH and not worry about the
total alkalinity, unless the hardness is over 400 PPM. Make sure the salt level
conforms to the manufacturer's recommendations. To help improve circulation you
might consider adding
The Circulator:
circulation boosting device Get the chemistry right and don't rely
completely on the action of others. Be better informed. Things will improve.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 4/6/2007
►
What Levels Of Metals A Problem?
We are just finishing up a pool installation and they are
getting ready to do the plaster coat. What are the acceptable levels
or thresholds for copper, iron and any other materials content in our well
water, in order to avoid staining? I want to buy the appropriate test
kits from you and would like to know what levels of each would pose a
concern for staining.
Joe G., 3/23/2007
Almost any level, that you can
measure, can be a problem, with well water. Certainly, 0.1 PPM would be a
problem with iron and manganese. If you use a prefilter, as the water is
being added, you might spare yourself some of the problem. I always suggest use
of a metal treatment, when well water is involved. A metal
removing prefilter
will remove metals before they get into the pool.
I hope that this information will prove helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 3/23/2007
► Biguanide
Testing?
I have used a biguanide test
kit with the dropper bottles and test strips. I can't say that I like or
feel confident about having to match the colors. Is there any other way to
do the testing? Thanks for the help.
Brad M., Naples, FL, 2/6/2008
Good
News! The
ColorQ
Biguanide PRO 5 Water Analyzer is an
all-digital, hand-held tester that performs tests for biguanide,
pH, total alkalinity, calcium hardness and biguanide shock. There are no
colors to match and no look-up charts. It is an ideal tester for anyone
with color matching difficulties. And it is affordably priced and easy to
use. Seems to be just what you
are looking for. I hope that this information will prove helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 2/7/2008
►
OTO
Chlorine Test?
I have been using an
OTO test for years. It almost seemed to be the only test, when we first
got a pool. Today, I see more choices. Are they better than OTO?
If so, why? Appreciate your advice. Thanks.
Colton T., Austin,
TX, 5/12/2005
OTO was
probably the first test for chlorine and, in those days, there was a lot less
known about the chemistry of chlorine in swimming pools. OTO measures
Total Chlorine and that is not as important as Free Chlorine. The
newer
DPD
Test Kits and various types of
Test
Strips usually test for both Free and Total Chlorine. This gives you a better
picture of the sanitizer level and the water quality. OTO test kits have
had their day in the Sun and their use is on the decline. The other kits
are better, plain and simple. I hope that I have been helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 5/12/2005
►
What's A
TDS Test?
My local pool dealer
runs a TDS test every now and then. Exactly, what is a TDS test?
Thanks.
Josh S., Phoenix, AZ,
10/1/2003
Total
Dissolved Solids (TDS)
is
a measurement of the total concentration of dissolved materials
in the water.
It is expressed as PPM of sodium chloride (salt). Soft water has a low
TDS. Hard water has a
higher TDS. Salt water has a very high TDS.
High TDS in swimming pools can lead to water quality problems. Most vinyl
pools and pools, that are winterized, never encounter a TDS problem. In
certain areas of the country, the source water is high in TDS and the pool water
may benefit from monitoring. TDS is usually measured with a
TDS meter and
is relatively easy to perform. Many test meters, such as the one pictured
to the right, also test for salt and other factors. Pools utilizing a
salt/chlorinator
should use a meter that tests for salt
and not just TDS. It is
important to measure the salt content of the water, to assure optimum
performance and longer cell life. I hope that I've
explained the TDS test successfully.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 10/1/2003
The subject is TDS. My pool is a
residential Fiberglass pool with a salt chlorinator system. I have read so
many opposite points of view on TDS testing and on how to test that I am
back to two basic questions. Do I even have to test for TDS as part of
my routine tests? I have not had a TDS related problem in 3 years of
pool ownership in my salt water pool? Some say a TDS problem is
caused, 99% of the time by excessive CYA, so you treat the excessive
stabilizer problem and ignore TDS. Others state, wait for TDS symptoms
to appear and then test for TDS as part of the problem solving process.
Others state a TDS problem in a salt water pool is so rare that there is no
need to test for TDS. If I should test, what method do I use?
Test for conductivity, test for TDS and subtract salt content, test for TDS
and subtract initial salt content? Salt test reading is the TDS
reading? Thanks for your help (previous and future).
Not all TDS readings have
the same implications. Years ago, a TDS over 1500 PPM was considered to
be terrible. If you live it parts of Arizona, that passes for tap water. Your
pool has about 3000 PPM of salt or whatever level the manufacturer of your
salt
chlorine generator
recommends. Some use more salt - others less. Assuming it is 3000 PPM and you
get a TDS reading of 4000 PPM. That means there are 1000 PPM of miscellaneous
dissolved salts: some naturally present in the tap water and others added to
control the pool water chemistry. The list includes bicarbonates, carbonates,
sulfates and cyanurates, as the major salts and some lesser amounts of others.
Unless you are having clarity or scaling issues, I would not be concerned
about testing the TDS. If the cyanuric acid is over 100 PPM, you should replace
water. There is no way it accounts for 99% of the difference between the TDS
and salt readings. A normal pool has hundreds of PPM of calcium hardness and
total alkalinity. Both test as TDS. If you use sodium bisulfate to lower the
pH, the water will contain large amounts of sulfates. And this doesn't consider
what occurs naturally.
I suggest that you use a meter to
test for salt. Some of the better ones do test for salt and TDS. Proper salt
level is important. Too little and not enough chlorine will be produced. Too
much could shorten the life of the salt cell.
Tracer
PockeTesters
are the easy way to test the salt & TDS levels. I hope that I have shed some
light on the subject.
Sincerely. Alan
Schuster, 5/23/2008
►
What Contributes To Rising TDS?
Does sodium bicarb raise TDS levels
with fresh water? I have gone from 320 TDS fresh water to 1300 TDS two
months later. Thanks.
Dave, 2/16/2007
Everything that dissolves in the water
can contribute to the TDS:
sodium bicarbonate, sodium carbonate, muriatic acid, sodium bisulfate, cyanuric
acid, chlorine, shock, metal treatments, etc. It all gets measured
as PPM of sodium chloride, in spite of being a varied mixture of salts.
One pound of dissolved salts will raise the TDS by about 12 PPM, in 10,000
gallons of water. I hope that this has helped clear things up.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 2/16/2006
►
When To
Replace A Test Kit?
How long can a pool
test kit last? Should it be replaced every year? Thank you.
Carolynne D.,
Alpharetta, GA. 6/2/2006
It really
depends upon the type of test kit and how and where it is stored between uses.
Those generalized recommendations to replace the test
 kits every year are
well-intentioned. Because so much depends upon the test readings
and there is no simple, foolproof means for determining the accuracy of an older
test kit, it is better to err on the side of caution and replace the test kit on
a yearly basis. Some common sense must be applied. Test
solutions, that do not look right, should be replaced regardless of their age!
All test solutions should be resealed after each use and stored away from
moisture, heat and light. Test strips usually have an expiration
date. However, if you remove the test strips with dripping wet
fingers, the moisture may destroy their reliability and/or shorten their shelf
life. Make sure that you remove all
test strips with dry fingers and that the container is resealed and stored away
from moisture, heat and light.
Most test strips are packaged in quantities that will last for about a
season and, usually, need to be purchased season to season. If you
would like a better type of pool water tester, consider the
ColorQ Water
Analyzers. These Colorimeter based testers are
available in several models and require no color-matching or guesswork. I hope
that I have been helpful. Enjoy the pool season.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 6/2/2006
►
Testing
For Salt?
My pool has a
salt/chlorinator installed. It required that I add salt to the water at
the rate of 20 pounds per 1000 gallons of pool water. I have to keep the
salt at 2000-2500 PPM. How often should I need to test the salt level?
Thank you.
Rick K., Ormand
Beach, FL, 3/2/2005
In your part
of the country the pools are open all year. Yes, I am aware that only the
"snow flakes" use the pool, in the winter, in your area! This means that
your water is not replaced or pumped out for winterizing. I suggest that
you test the salt level at the start of "your" swimming season.
I'm sure that you'll find it acceptable. I suspect that you have a
cartridge filter and, therefore, do not backwash.
In your case,
the salt level will only drop due to water replacement or due to pump out
because of excessive rainfall.
I suggest that, after periods of heavy rainfall, the salt level be tested to
determine, if any, the need to add additional salt. In addition,
Test
the water for salt,
if the
salt chlorinator is not producing the expected quantity of
chlorine. Test Meters are a simple way to monitor the salt level. Low salt levels can cause this to happen. Otherwise,
testing the salt level a few times a year should be adequate. The overall
pool water chemistry should be maintained, the same as any chlorine pool. I hope that
I have been of assistance.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 3/2/2005
|
Visit The
Test Equipment Store, for all your needs. |
►
Salt Testing vs. TDS
Testing?
Alan, excellent website!
Learned more in a few minutes on your page than in several weeks of general web
surfing. Couple questions for you. We have a chlorine generator and love it. I
use salt test strips to keep tabs on the salt level. It doesn't change much
over the course of the (short ) swimming season. But, when I re open the pool in
the spring, I have to add back a lot of water and, of course, salt. I have been
adding the salt and using the test strips. Today I took a water sample in for
analysis at a local pool store. My salt reading with the strips was about 2800
PPM. The store did not use test strips, but simply equated TDS to salt level and
told me my salt level was actually 3100 PPM. No real crisis here.
But is TDS really an accurate read on the salt level? I suspect this really
depends on what else is in the water. Comments? Second question. With all
water parameters in balance I still seem to have to keep a close eye on pH and
keep pulling it down on a weekly basis. It tends to drift up a lot. I have heard
this is normal in a "salt water" pool. Why would chlorine from a generator have
more effect on pH than chlorine pucks or other forms of pool chlorine? Are there
pH reducers in the chlorine products that reduce the pH rise in "normal"
chlorine pools?
Jim C., Canada, 4/28/2005
TDS
measurements include the salt content plus naturally occurring minerals,
carbonates and bicarbonates, calcium hardness minerals, chlorine stabilizer and
other pool chemicals. These can easily add up to a few hundred PPM or
more. A salt test reading is always
the more meaningful measurement, as it is what the operation of the
salt
chlorinator
depends on.
Salt chlorinators
tend to cause the pH to rise. The reason is that
alkaline materials are released, as the salt is converted into chlorine.
By comparison, trichlor tablets are acidic and tend to lower the pH. I
hope that I have been helpful. Enjoy the season.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 4/28/2005
►
Choosing A Salt Testing Meter?
Have an above ground swimming
pool with a salt water chlorinator. [Autopilot] What salt water test METER
should I consider and why?
Keith, 10/24/2006
Salt content is
important! Too little and not enough chlorine is produced. Too much and the
life of the cell can be shortened. Your
Autopilot
unit can be used with up to 6000 PPM of salt without cell damage, but that is
more than is recommended by the manufacturer. There are two good choices
LaMotte No.
1749 or LaMotte No. 1766. The latter tests for pH, as well,
and costs a bit more. Either will serve your needs. I hope that I have
been helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 10/24/2006
►
Action Based
On Test Results?
Alan. First of all I
would like to commend you on your website and the information posted. The
information is thorough and direct. I was informed last year by a pool
professional friend of the family during the non summer months all that was
needed for the pool was cleaning the filter and adding a bag of shock plus, once
a week in addition to brushing the floor and walls. However, I recently
noticed some staining in our in ground pool and wanted to get your feedback
prior to taking action. The stains appear yellowish-brownish in a pattern
formation on the floor and steps area. The stains are very light but noticeable.
When I took sample water to the local pool supply store for analysis, the rep
told me that due to the levels of the chemicals in the water, that the best
thing to do was to empty out the pool and start from scratch. The water
test results are as follows based on their tests: Cyanuric Acid: 275,
Chlorine: 10+, pH: 7.5, Copper: 0.08, Alkalinity: 200, Calcium: 500, T.D.S.: 1200, Iron: 0. Your advice is greatly appreciated. Best regards,
Sergio S., 5/23/2004
If your pool
is gunite, which I suspect, draining is an option. I never suggest
draining a vinyl pool. because of liner shrinkage and possible structural problems.
The reason that water replacement was recommended was because of the high
cyanuric acid level. Water replacement is the only means of lowering the
level and 275 PPM is grossly high. Very high levels can interfere with the
effectiveness of chlorine. While some of the other test values are high, I
cannot be sure of their relationship to the source water. The stains could
be the result of iron and other metals, even though the test results are
negative. If you drain the pool, have the tap water tested for metals and
add a dose or two of a metal treatment, in any event. The yellow-brown
material could be early mustard algae and it will benefit from a water
replacement. If, by chance, the pool is vinyl, replace the pool one-two
feet at a time. Evaluate you use of stabilized chlorine. If you are
using trichlor tablets, do not use dichlor as a shock, inasmuch as it will speed
up the rise in the cyanuric acid levels. I hope that the information
proves helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 5/24/2004
►
Free Chlorine
Readings?
We have been enjoying our
first summer with our above ground pool. I hate cold water, so we try to keep
the water pretty warm. I noticed on the water test strips that the acceptable
free chlorine level is higher for a spa than for a pool. Is this because of
the water temperature? Should we keep our chlorine level higher in relation
to the higher water temperature. Thank you for your help.
Theresa P., 8/20/2003
Higher
temperatures do make a difference, but there are other factors to be considered.
Two people in a pool contribute just so much waste to the water. The same two
people in a spa contribute more waste products (because of the higher
temperatures) and do it in less water. In a small spa or pool, the
sanitizer level can become depleted rather quickly. It sounds like you are
keeping things under control. The most common recommendation for a
swimming pool is 1-3 PPM of Free Chlorine. Make sure that you maintain the
overall water chemistry or balancing, as it helps avoid water quality problems. Enjoy the summer.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 8/20/2003
When I test my pool water for chlorine level
the color I get, after applying the solution to it, is orange. It starts
off a mild yellow but w/in 20 seconds turns orange. I had been running my
chlorine at twice the normal dosage (5.0 vs. 2.5). Is this orange color because
I went heavy on the dosage. Any help is appreciated. Thank you.
Robert D., 5/23/2006
The orange color
indicates that the chlorine level is too high to read, with that tester.
That type of tester is archaic and you should use one that tests for both
free and total chlorine. The label dose is only a guide - you must add
enough to maintain a proper level. For free chlorine testing, I suggest
using
LaMotte Insta-Test strips, as they
provide the right kind of information. To better assure proper overall
pool water chemistry, visit a pool store that has a very reliable,
professional lab such as a WaterLink, rather than a less accurate test kit
or strip reader.
To locate a dealer near you, go to:
www.lamotte.com/pages/pool/expdeal/index.html
I suggest that you start by having the water tested for free and total
chlorine. The total chlorine reading should not be more than 1 PPM higher
than the free chlorine readings. If it is, add some non-chlorine shock.
I hope that this information is helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 5/23/2006
►
Measuring Combined
Chlorine?
I have a test kit that doesn't
give very accurate results for combined chloramines testing . Can you give me
any help by suggesting a more accurate method of testing for this. Thank you
kindly.
Darlene, 11/16/2004
Test kits do not measure combined chlorine, which includes chloramines. To
determine the combined chlorine, subtract the free chlorine reading from the
total chlorine reading. Not all testers perform both tests. The
LaMotte
Insta-Test strips are an easy way to get this information. I
hope that I have been helpful.
Sincerely. Alan
Schuster, 11/16/2004
►
Low Stabilizer Reading?
On our test strip it states
that the stabilizer is low. Our pH, CHLORINE and ALKALINITY all read fine.
Please advise what might need to be done. The water is fresh- 1 week old.
Thank you.
Jim M., 4.18.2007
Low levels of chlorine stabilizer will increase the loss of
chlorine, due to the Sun's UV rays. You need to add some chlorine
stabilizer (cyanuric acid). You did not provide the reading or
how big your pool is. In a 10,000 gallon pool, one pound of cyanuric
acid will raise the level about 12 PPM. That should help you figure out
what needs to be added, based on the test lit recommendations. If you
are using stabilized chlorine, this reading will rise over time. When
it reaches 150 PPM, you should replace some of the water. Want to
avoid future buildup problems? Have you ever considered a
salt chlorine generator No
chlorine to buy, store or handle. No buildup of stabilizer! The
LaMotte Insta-Test 5
does all of the important tests and would be a better choice, that the
3-test strip that you are using. I hope that this information is
helpful.
Sincerely.. Alan Schuster, 4/18/2007
►
Manganese Test Kit?
Hi,
Alan, I have a pool service business on the east end of Long Island. There
is a manganese problem in some areas of the south shore. Is there a simple
test kit that I could use, in the field, to test for manganese. It just
might help solve a lot of problems for me. Thanks.
Tommy C. Quogue, NY, 3/19/2004
There are compact and
portable field test kits that are suitable for your needs. Your
customers will appreciate all the aggravation that your are helping them avoid. LaMotte
Company of Chestertown, MD can provide manganese test kits, as well
as a variety of other pool water testing supplies and testers. I hope that I have
been helpful. One more word of advice. Add 1 dose of a
quality mineral treatment product for each 0.5 PPM of manganese found. This
should provide an excess to help deal with other minerals that might, also, be
present. Have a good season.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 3/19/2004
|
Visit The
Test Equipment Store, for all your needs. |
►
Using A Chlorine
Neutralizer?
I
have 2 different pH test kits. One recommends neutralizing chlorine prior to
measuring pH while the other does not. Obviously this results in very different
pH readings. Which method should be used in order to guide pH manipulation.
Thanks.
Tony, 11/22/2003
It would have
been helpful to know whether you have a pool or spa. Most phenol red
solutions, but not necessarily all, have a chlorine neutralizer formulated into
the product. This is important in order to help protect the phenol red
from being "bleached out" by high levels of chlorine or bromine. Spas are
more likely to be using bromine than are pools and the lack of a chlorine
neutralizer can result in false high pH readings. You should be able to
get comparable readings, with either kit, by following the directions. If
there is an unreasonable difference, have the water tested by a pool or spa
professional, in order to better determine the more accurate test kit. I
hope that I have been helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 11/22/2003
►
Sampling - Testing Timeline?
My technicians are often ask
by the customer to bring a water sample to our retail store and have it tested.
The h/o will than call in for the results. How long can a water sample taken
from a pool sit before having it tested?
Cheri D., 4/3/2007
Chlorine
would be the most sensitive of the parameters. It will always be dropping
and could be affected in a short time, depending on the quality of the water
and the cleanliness of the container. Keeping the sample in a hot
vehicle or in sunlight will only cause degradation to occur more quickly.
Anything more than a few hours could be questionable. The other
parameters are not as affected and little difference should be seen, in a
tightly sealed container. Still, I suggest testing with a reasonably short
time frame: 3-4 hours. I hope this information helps you set a
reasonable guideline.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 4/2/2007
▲
Return To Top Of Page
▲
Thank you for visiting
AskAlanAQuestion.Com. If you found the website helpful, please
tell your
friends and dealers. If not, please tell us. Your suggestions are
appreciated.
Aqualab Systems.,
Inc. does not make any warranty or representation, either expressed or implied, regarding
the accuracy or completeness of the information provided by this website; nor does Aqualab
Systems., Inc. assume any liability of any kind whatsoever related to, or resulting from,
any use or reliance on this information. The content of this website
should not be used, if it is conflict with any applicable federal, state or
local regulations or guidelines.
©,
2002-10,
A.S., Inc. All rights reserved.
|
