Getting The Season Started

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► Getting Started?

MY HUSBAND AND I JUST PURCHASED AND ABOVE GROUND 30' ROUND POOL.  WE JUST FILLED IT WITH WATER AND HAVE YET TO ADD ANY CHEMICALS TO IT.  CAN YOU SUGGEST HOW TO GET THE POOL STARTED?

Lisa W., Coldwater, MS, 5/20/2008

While your question seems simple enough and it is, it is also worthy of being on the "top 10" list.  Depending upon the source of the water being used to fill the pool, you can save yourself a lot of anguish, time and money by doing a few things before adding chemicals.  Have the water, that will be used to fill the pool, tested for pH, total alkalinity, calcium hardness, iron and other heavy metals might be present.  If there are heavy metals present, it is best to add one dose of a quality metal treatment, such as Liquid Metal Trap, for each 0.5 PPM, as the pool is being filled.  If the tests for heavy metals are negative, you might want to add a dose anyway.  Allow about 6 hours of filter operation before adding other chemicals.  Now you're ready to adjust the pH, total alkalinity and calcium hardness.  Try and avoid having chemicals, especially chlorine products, remain in prolonged direct contact with the liner: run the filter and stir things up with the pool brush.  If the pool is to be maintained on chlorine, you should add stabilizer.   Try and maintain a Free Chlorine level of 1-3 PPM, at all times, whether the pool is being used or not.  The labels are only a guide!  How much chlorine your pool will require will depend upon location, Sun exposure, bather usage and frequency, water temperature, etc.  It may sound difficult, but is easier to do it right, than to fix it after some neglect.  I hope that these suggestions will prove helpful.  Enjoy the pool.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 5/20/2008

► Messy Opening & Safety Issues?

My husband and I purchased a resale last December.  Although the pool was operating when we first viewed the house, it was closed and covered by the time we took title.  We know nothing about pools.  Call us city folks.  Over the course of the winter, the solid plastic cover over the pool, collapsed at one end.  Evidently, this was a result of leaves and water collecting on top.  I can only imagine what a mess is now inside the pool.   The pool is a vinyl inground type, about 20 X 40.  It is spring now and we are going to have to face the challenge.  Where do we start?  The pool is fenced in, but not separated from the house.  I'm concerned about the kids and dog.  Helpful hints will be appreciated.  Thank you.

Sharon H., Milton, MA, 5/31/2009

It does sound like you're in for a lot of work.  If it were up to me, I would call in a pool service company to open the pool, get everything working and start you on the road to crystal clear water.  That way, you can observe, ask questions and, perhaps, learn about operating the equipment.  A local pool professional can help you with matters of water testing and chemicals.  But, if you want to do it yourself, here is where to start.  If the cover still has water and debris on top, get a cover pump (small submersible pump that is attached to a garden hose and placed on top to remove water) and pump off as much water as possible.  Try and remove the debris with a pool leaf rake:  without causing a collapse.  Pull the cover off, trying to keep as much debris, as possible, out of the pool.  Clean the cover, allow to dry and store indoors until winter.  Now you are looking at a disaster of a pool, with the water somewhat below the skimmers.  If your water is of good quality and not from a well, you can start adding water.  If your water is from a well, you might want to have it tested:  minerals can cause staining and are best treated before chlorine is added.  The filter has to be hooked up:  depending upon the type it may have been removed for the winter and stored indoors.  A local dealer or friend might be able to help with the hookup.  Once the filter is running, you are ready to start adding chemicals.  I would start with 2 pounds, per 5,000 gallons of pool water, of a shock treatment.  This will begin the decomposition of the leaves and debris.  Find out how to use your pool vacuum and use it to start removal of the debris on the bottom.  Have the water tested for pH, total alkalinity, calcium hardness and chlorine stabilizer and add chemicals as required.  Test for Free Chlorine, every few hours, and add more shock, if the Free Chlorine level drops below 3 PPM.  The pool should start to look better and better, but could take a few days to really clear up.  I know that I have oversimplified things, but you will get by with some common sense and some pool dealer advice.  During the summer, all this work will be a fond memory.  You might want to browse through the archives on the topics of pool maintenance, cloudy water, etc. There are safety products available including Pool Alarm Systems and Gate Alarm Systems for gates, doors and windows). These products can add a high degree of security without the fenced in feeling.  You can help protect your dog and even some uninvited critters from drowning, because of being unable to exit the pool.  The Skamper-Ramp provides an easy escape route.  You might check to make sure that the main drain is an anti-entrapment design, as it can prevent serious accidents.  Local laws can vary, so make sure that all safety devices are in compliance, with all federal and local regulations.  Being aware is, of course, always important!  I hope that I have been of assistance.  Good luck with the pool and enjoy the summer.

Sincerely.   Alan Schuster/ 5/31/2009

► Not Quite Ready To Open?

I am not going to open the pool as early as I usually do.  A friend suggested that I pull back the cover and add a few gallons of liquid shock, in order to help keep the water a few weeks longer.  What do you think of that idea?  The pool is a vinyl inground.  Thank you.

Rich G., Paramus, NJ, 6/2/2004

I assume that the pool is covered and that the filter is in storage.  Therefore, there is no circulation.  An vinyl lined pool should not have chlorine added without the benefit of circulating water.  This could result in some bleaching of the liner.  Adding chemicals, especially chlorine, without the filter operating, is not a good practice.  Are you willing to risk damage to the liner?  If the pool was masonry, there would be no problem adding the chlorine.  It's your decision.  The idea has merit, as long as care is taken to avoid damaging the liner.  I hope that I have been helpful.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 6/3/2004

► Jumping The Gun?

Out of curiosity (I am in Connecticut and the pool is still covered) I did a few tests on my pool water (gunite pool with a winter cover that lets water through) and the pH seemed like it had gone up a lot (the pH number went up) over the winter – is this normal?   I did the acid demand test and I think it took like four drops of the reagent that is used to measure acid demand.  For one thing what is the preferred way to bring  the number down and secondly should I wait until the pool is opened in probably six weeks or so?  I would assume I need to wait as the pump needs to be on, etc.  I have heard of people around here putting some chemicals under the cover to get a head start on the de-winterizing.  Also, why would the pH go up over the winter?  From rain and snow?  Thanks for your help and a great site.

Paul B., Connecticut, 4/4/2005

That's not how it usually works.  Acid rain and carbon dioxide should cause the pH to drop - even in CT.  Being that the pool is gunite, it is possible that the walls are influencing the pH.  In any event, the sample was not representative of the pool.  It won't be until the pump is up and running.  I would wait the 6 weeks and not worry about it, until the cover is off and the filter is running.  That's when a water analysis helps tell you what to do.  Putting in chemicals, under the cover, can lead to problems and is not worth the risk!  I hope that this information proves helpful.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 4/4/2005

► Unwanted Dearly Departed?

We just bought a new house which contained an inground round pool.  We have absolutely no experience with pools.  It had a cover but somehow both a chipmunk and lizard managed to make their final resting place at the bottom of our pool over the winter.  We removed them but now are wondering if we should just dump the water and start over.  Please help.  Thank you,

In the routine course of getting the pool back into proper condition, after a winter of dormancy, you will have to add lots of chlorine:  enough to boost and maintain the free chlorine level at 1-3 PPM.  Doing this will destroy all traces of the dearly departed.  There is no need to drain the pool.  This is not all that uncommon!  If you are interested in prevent a recurrence, adding a Skamper-Ramp will give these critters an escape from the water entrapment.  If is simple to install and does not interfere with the pool use, if you flip it onto to deck.  Good luck and enjoy the pool.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 4/12/2007

► Water On Top?

This is my first year having my pool, we closed the pool fine and put a pillow in the center. During the winter water, leaves, and ice stacked up on top of the pool cover. I tried getting as much as I could off but after it froze over I wasn't very successful. Now its spring and the ice melted leaving a lot of water on top which is making the pool cover drop down and on one side the cover was pulled close to inside the pool. I'm trying to find a way to get all the water out since its so deep. Do you have any recommendations?

Pool Rookie, 4/6/2005

There are submersible cover pumps that can be used to remove accumulated water.  Or you could take a length of hose and create a siphon.  It make take a day or so, but it will remove the water.  The more you get off, the less likely it will be that you get this debris in the pool.  Good luck and enjoy the season.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 4/6/2005
 

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Lori H., 5/18/2003

If you were lucky the winterizing agent was a propylene glycol based product.  Since it is all a mystery, why don't you set the filter to pump to waste for a few minutes.  That will keep the unknown out of the pool.  I would prefer to remove the pump to an indoor location for the winter.  If the filter is not a sand filter, you might be able to do the same with that as well.  Otherwise, draining and sealing off against water intrusion is next best method.  Enjoy the summer.

Linda A., 3/1/2004

This may not be the most important step to take, but try and prevent the cover and all of the debris on top from falling into the pool.  All that would do is add to the problem.  Unfortunately, you did not provide and specifics, as to pool type.  The leak could be in a main drain, return fitting or the built-in steps.  That is if there are any of these features.  It is possible that the leak is at the current water level.  Mark the current depth, for use as a reference point.  If the leak was very small, if may be difficult to see a water loss on a daily basis, because some water will be lost due to evaporation.  If the water continues to drain out slowly, it will stop at the level of the leak.  There are dye solutions, that can be added to a still pool, that can help trace the flow to the source of the leak.  There are companies that specialize in leak detection.  It is not a good idea to leave a vinyl liner pool without water for extended periods, as such practice can lead to liner shrinking.  If the pool is an inground, structural damage is possible, if substantial water has drained out.  I hope that this information will point you in the right direction.  Good luck.

Gary, 7/1/2003

There is a definite advantage in asking before the fact!  Take the cover off incorrectly and you'll be sorry.  The first thing you must do is pump off as much water as possible.  There are small submersible cover pumps that are perfect for this task.  Just attach a garden hose.  Once the water is off, try and remove as much of the debris as possible.  It is probably not possible to remove everything, but give it your best shot.  When this has been done, you are ready to remove the cover.  Try and do it such a way as to minimize the amount of debris that might fall into the pool.  That's why getting off as much as possible, before trying to remove the cover, is so important.  After the cover is removed, restore the water level, connect the equipment and start on the road to water quality.  I hope it all works out well.  Enjoy the season.

Karen T., 3/10/2004

A pool opening is essentially a reversal of the pool closing.  The one thing that you should be very careful with is the removal of the cover.  You don't want to get all that debris into the pool.  Use a cover pump to remove all of the water from the top of the cover (if it is a solid cover) and use a skimmer net to scoop off any debris.  Once the cover is off, start adding water, remove all the plugs and winter fittings and reconnect the filter and pump.  Make sure the filter cartridge is clean:  using The Blaster Filter Cartridge Cleaner will make it easy.  Assuming that a pool grade antifreeze was used, it can be flushed into the pool.  Once filtration has been restarted, chemicals can be added.  You will have to add enough chlorine shock to destroy any accumulations of algae and debris and establish an appropriate chlorine level.  The other aspects of pool water chemistry should be tested and adjusted, as necessary.  Make sure that the cover is cleaned and allowed to dry off, before storing away.  I hope that this information will point you in the right direction.  Have fun and good luck.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 3/10/2004

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► Too Much Anti-Freeze?

We used much too much (non-toxic) antifreeze, in fear of freeze up, and now the pool water is reddish brown due to the antifreeze.  Will the sand filter trap it or do we have to replace the water?  Thanks.

R. C., 4/7/2005

Pool antifreeze falls into two categories:  a solution of propylene glycol or a solution of freezing-point depressing salts.  The propylene glycol product can be used to winterize either lines, pumps, filters or equipment, as it is non-corrosive to metal parts.  The other type, using the solution of freezing point depressants, is for use in plastic lines only and should have directions that plainly indicate that limitation.  It sounds like you might have discharged some anti-freeze that was used to protect a piece of equipment and it is possible that corrosion has resulted because the wrong type of anti-freeze was used.  Otherwise, I can account for no other reason for this color.  I suggest that you add a dose or two of a metal treatment, in order to complex any metals introduced into the pool.  This should solve the problem with the color.  If equipment was winterized, it should be inspected for the effects of corrosion.  If you still have the containers, read the directions to see if the product was used appropriately.  Good luck and I hope that I have come up with the explanation.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 4/7/2005

 

► Antifreeze In The Pool?

Is it imperative to remove the antifreeze from the lines rather than just letting it mix with the rest of the water and then treating it as needed for summer start up? No one seems to know. I have a fiberglass inground pool. If not, what is the easiest way to clear the lines and make ready for the season?  Thanks.

John, 5/13/2006

If you are using a swimming pool antifreeze, it is expected that the product will get into the pool.  This type of product should present no hazard, once in the pool.  Enjoy the summer.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 5/13/2006

 

► Liner Problems?

I JUST HAD A QUESTION.  WE HAVE HAD OUR POOL FOR ABOUT 7 YEARS AND THIS YEAR OUR DOG GOT ON TOP BECAUSE IT WAS FROZEN ATE THROUGH THE WINTER COVER AND RIPPED SEVERAL HOLES IN THE LINER. IN SOME SPOTS THE LINER IS ALL BENT DOWN AND THE WATER IS GOING BEHIND THE LINER AND MAKING A BIG BULGE BECAUSE IT HAS NO WHERE TO GO. IS THIS GOING TO RUST THE SIDES OR MAKE THE SIDES COLLAPSE OR WHAT? WERE NOT REALLY SURE WHAT TO DO ABOUT THIS PROBLEM.

Nameless, 3/21/2004

It sounds like you have the type of liner that is suspended from a bead.  The chances are that it is repairable.  The water behind the liner should drain out or should be pumped out.  I doubt that corrosion or collapse are a serious issue, but there's not much you can do in the frozen state.  As soon as the weather permits, you might want to remove the cover and call in a vinyl liner repair specialist.  Good luck and I hope that I have been helpful.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 3/21/2004

 

► Unopened For 5 Years?

Dear Alan, we opened the pool after 5 years of not opening it. We can not get the water to clear. At the pool company everything reads normal.  When it is vacuumed brown water comes out of the jets. Does that mean there is something wrong with the pipes or the filter? We even put in a chemical that is supposed to take the chemicals to the bottom but that still hasn't help to clear the water. Help.  Thank you.

Bonny B., Phippsburg, Maine, 6/17/2003

Picture all the stuff that has been growing in the pipes and unreachable spots for the past 5 years.  I think that you are going to have to maintain a high chlorine level, 5-10 PPM, and keep the water recirculating.  If the filter has not been disassembled and cleaned, it should be at the top of the list.  Once the chlorine has been allowed to decompose all the accumulations of 5 years of neglect, I'm sure that progress will be made.  Good luck.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 6/17/2003

 

► High Pressure?

We have an inground pool.  We just opened the pool, and I usually replenish the chlorine tablets every few days, the pump seems to have too much pressure when I turn it off as it usually did.  Could the configuration be set up wrong?  There seems to be bubbling in the pool like one of the valves is not correct.  Right now we have both the filter valve and pump valve in the on position.  Is there something else that needs to be turned on or off?  Thanks.

Stephanie S., 6/3/2003

Most likely the pressure is high because there is debris in the pump strainer, the skimmer baskets or the filter needs to be cleaned.  All three are common after a pool is opened.  If, after, normal pressure is restored, the bubbling continues, it could be a sign of a leak or bad connection in the return line.  Check all the connections.  I hope that I have been helpful. 

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 6/3/2003

 

► Directing The Water Flow?

I just opened my inground pool, and the pressure is fine and it's cleaning the pool.  I have 2 skimmers on the side & 2 on the bottom. It looks like the side skimmers are not sucking in any water just the  bottom one.  I had a pool company winterize it, but they were booked so I opened it my self.  The water is clear, just the side skimmers are not sucking in any water or dirt?  Why?  Is it filtrating thru the bottom 2 opening on the floor of the pool?  HELP, since all the pool guys are booked up!  Thank you.

Eddie, 5/11/2003

It sounds like a simple enough problem.  Let's hope that it is!  There must be a valve or valves that allow you to apportion the water between the skimmers and the bottom drains.  It sounds like all of the water is being directed to the drains.  Check the settings and hopefully the problem will be solved.  If not, it could be indicative of a plugged line and will require servicing.  Good luck and I hope that I have been of assistance.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 5/12/2003

 

► When To Open?

I live in Atlanta, GA, and wanted to know the best time to open our inground pool. My husband says it is to early because there are still blooms from the trees and bushes blowing all over the place.

Dawn, Atlanta, GA, 4/19/2004

I don't know if I would base it on the spring bloom.  Given the cost of electricity, I would choose to open a pool perhaps 2-4 weeks before there was some expectation of actually using the pool.  Otherwise, you'll incur some needless expenses.  Keep an eye on the long term weather forecast and give yourself enough time to get things in order.  Enjoy the season.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 4/19/2004

 

► Needs Help ASAP?

Hi Alan, I have a above ground pool and I kind of  neglected it all winter long.  Now I'm trying to set it up again, but I have this very big problem.  There's a big build up of algae all over the pool, try to brush it but it won't brush  off, it's hard,  .What's the best thing I can do to soften it so I can brush it off?  I need your help really badly.  My son is having his 2nd birthday this coming Sunday and the kids want to use the pool.  How can I fix this problem immediately?

Ty, 4/13/2003

I don't know about immediately.  How about A.S.A.P?  Algae should not be hard, unless, perhaps, it was above the water line and dried out.  Raise the water to the proper level and get the filter operating.  Add two pounds of shock, per 5000 gallons of water, and keep the filter operating continuously.  Test the water for pH, total alkalinity, cyanuric acid, calcium hardness and trace metals.  Your local [pool professional should be able to help you in this area.  Pay attention to the pH.  The addition of all that shock will likely raise the pH.  Try and keep the pH at 7.2-7.6.  Test the pool water for Free Chlorine and additional addition shock, until you are able to maintain a Free Chlorine level of 1-3 PPM for an overnight period.  The longer it takes to do this, the longer it will take to clear the pool.  Test the Free Chlorine frequently and add more shock, if needed, and as the water improves drop the rate to addition to 1 pound per 10000 gallons.  It may take a lot more shock than the label calls for, so be prepared!  It is all related to the condition of the pool and not the strength of the product.  As the water begins to clear up, try adding algaecide and a dose of a quality "Blue" clarifier.  I hope that I have been helpful.  Good luck.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 4/14/2003

 

► More Pond Than Pool?

We're moving into a house with an old (1955) huge (42x22) concrete pool not used in 4 years with very green frog filled water.  What should we do?  I realize you would not be making money on us, as we do not live near you but I appreciate at least a little help.  Should we let the water out?  (it is near a stream easy to fill from).  How do we save the frogs?  What do we do first?  The old filter system works we think.

Marla S., 3/25/2004

You don't have to worry about me not making money, even if I were located around the corner.  The website is not affiliated with any chemical manufacturer and is supported by a growing list affiliated companies.  My wife is a frog collector, so she would want to save them.  It is very likely that your pool will have to be acid washed and/or resurfaced.  These things are usually done periodically and there's no telling when the pool was last serviced or maintained.  The water from the stream sounds convenient, but could be a major source of problems.  Before using that water, have it tested for iron and other minerals.  Otherwise, you'll end up spending more on chemicals that the water was worth.  Short of pumping the water down, there's no simple way to save the frogs.  You should, in any event, scoop out as much debris and frogs as possible.  Without adding chemicals it will be difficult, at best to clean up filtration system, underground pipes and underwater surfaces.  Only by cleaning up the pool will a true assessment of the actual conditions and needs be possible.  When you've saved as many frogs as practical, it will be time to start.  Remove as much debris as possible, fill the pool up to the proper level and start the filter (on recirculate if possible).  Start by adding 25 pounds of calcium hypochlorite or 25 gallons of liquid chlorine.  Remember, what you have is a pond and we are trying to make it a pool.  Lots of chlorine will be required.  Test the pH and try to keep it near 7.2, as it makes the chlorine work better.  Test the water for Free Chlorine and if there is less than 1-3 PPM, add an additional 10 pounds or gallons of chlorine.  Eventually, the water will start to improve as the chlorine destroys the contamination.  When you can see bottom, vacuum and sediment to waste.  Retest the pH after every chemical addition.  As the water starts to improve, switch the filter to the filter cycle.  Pay attention to the filter pressure and return flow.  Backwash or clean the filter, as necessary.  As the water begins to clear, add a dose of a blue clarifier, to help remove fine particles.  Keep adding chlorine, until you are able to maintain a 1-3 PPM level of Free chlorine, after an overnight period.  Once you have reached a stable chlorine level and the water chemistry is optimized, you should be able to assess the condition of the underwater surfaces.  Does it need a resurfacing or will an acid wash be OK?  I can't help with that answer.  You might want to call in a service company for an opinion, if your knowledge of pools is limited.  If you are interested in prevent a recurrence, of the frog invasion, adding a Skamper-Ramp will give them an escape route from the water entrapment.  It is simple to install and does not interfere with the pool use, if you flip it onto to deck.  I hope that I have been of some help - you'll need it!

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 3/25/2004

 

► Off To A Bad Start?

We opened our inground pool after a long hard winter and found the built in concrete steps needed to be restructured and, after some quotes & opinions, decided to have the stairs fiber glassed.  The fiberglass company advised us that we could drain the pool to the floor of the shallow end keeping the deep end in approx 5 feet of water.  We did this-even though other companies told us we shouldn't. The long story short, they fixed & fiber glassed the stairs, but the sand around the deep end caved in at various locations around the pool.  the guys told us to refill the pool and he would have guys in to "push it back".  The water guy says he's full of you know what.  Can that be done and, if not, what can we do?  Thanks.

Kathy, Abington MA, 5/13/2003

Draining a pool always involves a risk and I always advise against it, unless there is no other choice.  Every pool and situation is different to some extent.  I'm a chemist and not a construction expert, so there is nothing definitive that I can say about the situation.  I don't know what I can suggest other than to get some other opinions before doing anything.  Good luck and I'm sorry that the season started off on the wrong track for you.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 5/13/2003

 

► Choice Of Water Supply?

I am having a pool installed basic 20X40 inground pool.  I estimate @ 35,000 gals needed.  I have a well and don't want to use it to fill the pool.  I also have a stream that leads to a local reservoir.  This time of year it is very active and I could easily pump water from the stream to the pool.  Will this cause me big problems in the future?  If I have the water trucked in how do I know that the trucking company did not get the water from the CT river? ( I live in Conn).  Please advise?

TOM D., CT, 11/21/2006

I am not sure either is a good option.  I suggest that you sample both and have a local pool store do some testing.  Primarily, you are looking to avoid water with high iron content or high hardness.  You should add several doses of a quality metal treatment before the water is added.  A METALTRAP Filter unit, that you attach to the hose, will remove lots of the problem metals and minerals.  It can make marginal water less likely to cause problems and save you time and money, in the long run.  I hope that this information will be helpful.

 

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 11/21/2006

 

► Filling From The Pond?

Alan, this looks like a very useful site.  We are in the process of installing a Viking Fiberglass Pool.  The pool is in and they filled it (while backfilling) with water from a pond.  There are fish in the pond so its not polluted with chemicals, but there are geese as well.  The builder (very reputable - in business for 40 years) is saying that it is common to do this.  I would have preferred a tanker with fresh water.  My wife was horrified.  He says the water will clean up and be as clear as tap water when they are through.  I'm a little uneasy.  Should I be?  Also, How will I know which section of your website this question would be answered in?  Thanks.
 

Del C., Fort Wayne, IN, 4/10/2007

Actually, the exact question probably is not on the website, but I will add it.  You will receive an email reply, as I answer far too many questions to put them all on the website.  The use of natural water is not uncommon, especially in rural areas.  The presence of waste from the pond's current inhabitants is not a major issue.  Chlorine will destroy all of the organic content and the filter should do the rest.  Just to protect against the presence of iron and other metals, I would add at least two doses of a quality metal treatment.  To be sure, have the pond water tested for iron and other metals.  If present, add at least a dose of each 0.5 PPM found and another dose monthly.  Inasmuch as pond waters vary, there is no uniform works everywhere scenario.   The PURESTART Pre-Filter can remove the organic products, that are typically found in naturally occurring water supplies.  This can help you avoid staining, discoloration and help you get the chemistry balanced sooner.  Test the water and adjust the pool water parameters, as necessary, to the recommended levels:  pH, chlorine, total alkalinity, calcium hardness, chlorine stabilizer and heavy metals.  Good luck with pool and I hope this information proves helpful.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 4/10/2007

 

► What To Do?

My above ground pool was just opened, after having been closed for the winter.  The water was not in bad shape.  After trying, without success to start up the filter, I decided to bring the pump and motor in for some repair.  It won't be ready for 3-4 days.  Can you suggest anything to do until the equipment is ready?  Thanks.  Sincerely.

John H., Pottsville, PA, 5/31/2003

Without the filter operating there is not much that can be done.  Your above ground pool requires that some care must be taken to avoid damaging the vinyl liner.  I would not add granular chlorine to the pool:   you don't want product sitting on the bottom, especially without water circulation.   If you would like to add chlorine, use liquid chlorine.  Pour it into the water away from the walls and use a vacuum pole or water stream from a garden hose to help distribute and dilute the chlorine.  Use a leave rack to remove any debris that might have fallen into the pool, during removal of the cover.  Be patient, you have the whole summer ahead of you.  Enjoy the summer.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 5/31/2003

 

► Opening With A Salt Chlorinator? 

This is our first time opening using the salt system and I think we have trouble.  I have above ground 24ft. x 48in. pool. at the end of last summer, we installed saltwater system and (upon changing systems our water got really green then just as we seemed to get water stabilized and clear,  it was time to winterize and close .  Upon opening the pool this weekend, the water is very, very dark. we have just completed adding the water to the needed level, and seems we need to shock 'big time' to clear to water.  My question.  Do we start up with opening procedure, as before the saltwater system, (shock, etc) while adding the extra salt (because of adding additional water) or do we shock, etc. get the water stable and clear, then add salt??  We live in Nashville, TN.  Our winters are becoming so mild, I think next winter I will keep the pool open and running to help alleviate this situation.  Please help

 

Sherry, Nashville, TN 3/27/2007

Do everything, the same as before, and adjust the salt level to the proper range.  You will have to add shock, as needed, to help destroy all of the contamination.  The faster, the chlorine level is raised, the better.  Adjust the other water chemistry parameters, as required.  Once done, the Salt Chlorine Generator should be better able to maintain the level.  Make sure that the salt cell is clean and that all connections are tight.  I hope this information helps.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 3/27/2007

 

► Green Pool Water?

Do I want to add an algaecide while I'm shocking the pool to get rid of green water?

Stephen, 3/19/2004

Sounds like a pool opening?  If this is the case, make sure that you vacuum out any debris, as soon as possible.  It will help reduce the amount of shock needed to clear up the water.  Always allow each chemical to dissolve in turn.  Never mix different chemicals together.  Algaecides are commonly added before or after shocking.  To get rid of the algae it is important to maintain a Free Chlorine reading of at least 1-3 PPM, after an overnight period.  It may be necessary to add more than 1 dose of shocking, depending upon the condition of the pool.  Test the water a few hours after addition and add more shock, if required.  Refer to the archives for more on this topic.  I hope that I have been helpful.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 3/20/2004

Proper water chemistry will help to better control and avoid algae problems and maintain more optimum swimming conditions.  More information about Pool/Spa Water Testing Products can be found in the Test Equipment Store.

(Click on any image for ordering and information.)

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