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"Pool Maintenance Information"
Sometimes
there are better ways to do common pool tasks.
The Pool & Spa Informational Website
askalanaquestion.com |
Considerations & Solutions
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Scroll down to browse
through some archived SWIMMING POOL questions and answers.
Please access the Pool Problems Page and other links, at the top of
every page, for additional information.
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Swimming pools require
routine care and periodic maintenance, apart from the balancing of the water
chemistry and the establishment of a proper sanitizer level. In order to
preserve or restore the aesthetics of the pool and maintain good operating
conditions, seasonal practices should be followed. Some products, are
available, that can help with the chores and are worthy of consideration.
Clicking
on the underlined and highlighted
"keywords" or "catch phrases," in the archived answers will
give you access to additional information on that topic or product.
Please refer to the Glossary, if
there are terms or phrases that require explanation.
For an alphabetized listing
of the entire contents of the website, use the
Table of Contents link, on top of
every page.
Getting It Right Since 1950
( Click the pictures,
for more information.)
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More information, about Vinyl Plastic Repair Patches, Repair Kits and
Underwater Epoxy, can be found on the Boxer
Adhesives Preview Page in the "Pools
& Equipment" Product Information Section. Links are available to
connect you to their website. |
►
Cracked Pool Skimmer?
I noticed a crack on the
bottom of my pool skimmer right near the back hole when I went to close the pool
last winter. I really don’t notice any water loss yet, but I am just opening the
pool. I have a fiberglass pool that is 12 years old. Thanks for any help you might
give.
Donna L., Charleston, SC,
4/19/2007 
Cracks in the skimmer can tend to get bigger and short of
replacing the entire
assembly,
you might try the
Boxer Adhesives #350 Skimmer Repair Kit.
It should be exactly what you need and is simple to use. For more
information go to:
www.boxeradhesives.com
I hope that this information will be helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
4/19/2007
►
Finding A Leak?
Alan, I have a plastered pool that is leaking as much as three inches a day, and I'm
confused about where the leak is located. I thought the multiport valve
might be leaking into the backwash while in normal filtration position. After
five hours of filtration the pool lost about 1/2 inch of water. The valve is
very old and I thought this may be the cause of the leak. Then I did a
drain down without running the filter. After two days the water level dropped to
the base of the skimmer opening and stopped. However, when the water level is
where it should be I can still vacuum. So, I'm not convinced that the
skimmer has a suction leak. Any advice you could give would be
appreciated. Thank you.
Stuart S., Boulder City, Nevada 3/15/2009
It would have been helpful to
know what kind of pool this is: above ground or inground. The problem is not the multiport valve because there would be
evidence of water seepage that would be conclusive. My guess is that this
is an inground pool: an above ground pool would have exposed lines and a leak is easier to
find. The fact that the water level dropped to the skimm er base, means
that the leak is due to a bad seal in the skimmer, a crack in the skimmer, a bad
line connection at the skimmer or leak in the line from the skimmer to the
filter. A leak in the return line would produce a lot of aeration, when
the filter is in operation. The leak could also be from another point at
the height of the skimmer base.
I suggest that you do the following:
Fill the pool up to the normal level and shut off the filter. Find a
leak-detecting dye solution at a local pool professional store. Basically,
it will direct you to drop some dye, into the still water, and look for evidence
of a water flow. If there are steps, underwater lights or other
through the wall items, you will have to check these as well. Sometimes,
leaks are in inaccessible location such as underground lines. Frequently,
it is possible to add a
leak sealer compound to the pool
or intakes and create a permanent repair, without costly excavations.
FIX
A LEAK has been used for this purpose with proven results. Look
for the product at a pool professional. In addition, there are
companies that specialize in
leak detection, using specialized detection equipment, if your efforts prove
unsuccessful. I hope that I have been helpful and good luck.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 3/15/2009
►
How Long A
Filter Cycle?
I have just had
my second vinyl liner
installed in our in-ground lap pool. The lap pool is 40 feet long X 8 feet wide
X 4 feet deep.
My circulating pump is a 3/4 horse power, and it circulates the water very well.
I have an automatic pool cleaner that runs whenever the circulating pump runs. I
live in Hawaii and use the pool year round. The summer temperatures range from
90(day) to 80(night), and the winter temperatures range from 85(day) to
70(night). My question is how long should I run my circulating pump on a daily
basis? Thanks Alan.
Steve V., Hawaii,
6/7/2003
It seems that
your pump is big enough for the pool. For best results, you want to run
the pump at least long enough to turn the water over 2-3 times. I guess
that if you run the filter for 6-8 hours a day, it would be more than enough, given the size of the
pool and the circumstances. However, this is not an etched in stone matter
and is influenced by other factors. The bottom line is you want good water
quality. If 6 hours produces that result - great! You didn't
mention how the pool is sanitized. Some sanitizers are linked to the
filter cycle: built in chlorinators or brominators,
salt chlorinators,
ozonators, ionizers and
mineral sanitizers. Changing the filter cycle will
impact on the sanitizer level and must be accounted for, by adjusting the feed
rate of the sanitizer. I hope that I have been helpful. Aloha.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 6/8/2003
►
Is It Necessary to Run 24/7?
Is it absolutely necessary to run the pump
24/7? i.e.- Can you run it 12(Hours) on/12 off?, and./or are
there any energy efficient pumps? Hammered by my electric bill.
James J., 10/2/2006
Absolutely
not! 24/7 is extravagant, unless you own the utility. You want the
water to turn over 2-3 times, if possible and you want good results.
Running the filter 6-12 hours a day - more during peak season and less
during the cooler periods -- works for most people. I would try 8
hours and see how it works out. Occasionally, if the water clouds or algae
is a problem, at that time you might want to run it 24/7. While some pumps
might be more efficient than others, it is probably more a function of hours of
operation that will impact the electric bill. If you add
The Circulator, you will make the most
of the filtration time, by greatly boosting circulation and eliminating dead
spots. It can be used in just about every pool, one in each return, and I am sure that this will
make a difference in the cost of maintaining the pool. I hope that this
information will be useful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 10/2/2006
►
Keeping Skimmer Free?
Is there an easy way to keep
floating toys and stuff from blocking the skimmer. Thanks for the help.
Janice, NJ, 8/1/2005
Keeping the skimmer free not only
maintains
good water flow, but it helps keep the pool clean. There is
a simple way to
avoid toys and objects from getting sucked into the skimmer or locking the weir
in place. Skimmer guards are easy to install
and solve the problem. I hope the information proves helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
7/14/2005
► Too Many
Frogs?
I am not sure if they are frogs
or toads, but I find them dead in the skimmer of my inground pool. Any
suggestions.
Lana J,, Ft. Meyers, FL,
8/12/2007
You could
try putting some moth balls into the beds, around the pool, so long as there are
no pet or small kids that might pick them up. The odor could repel the
frogs. Otherwise, installing a
Skamper-Ramp
might give them a way out of the pool. It will also help prevent
chipmunks, squirrels, possums, pets, etc, from being trapped in the pool.
When the pool is in use, just flip it out
of the water. It is simple and effective. Good luck.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 8/13/2007
► A Rabbit's Sad Fate?
Yesterday we retrieved a
dead rabbit from our pool filter box. What can we do to ensure the
water is safe again for swimming? Thanks.
Kylie H., 1/5/2010
I realize
this is an unpleasant experience. Obviously, removal and disposal of
the remain is the first task. I suggest that you raise the free
chlorine level to 5-10 PPM. If the following morning, there is still at
least 1-3 PPM of free chlorine, it would be safe to assume that all
traces of the animal and decomposition products have been destroyed.
Depending on the degree of decomposition, addition chlorine might be
required, so test the water a few hours after the initial dosing. During
this period run the filter 24/7. Clean the skimmer basket with some
laundry bleach. This done, you should be good to go.
Animal drowning can be avoided, by installing a
Skamper-Ramp.
It attaches to the pool deck and flips into the water. Once in place it
provides animals, pets, cats, possums, frogs and more with an easy
escape route. Installation is simple and it flips out of the pool,
whenever the pool is being used.
I hope that this information helps to put the experience behind you.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 1/6/2010
|
Save Pets & Uninvited
Critters From Drowning! |
►
Baffled About
Ports?
I am
a new home owner with a pool, in ground vinyl liner. I am totally confused
about ports. What position should they normally be in,
when the pool is on and what should be on/off when vacuuming? Should the
water level go down when I vacuum? I have experimented. I wish I
could find a diagram! If you can help, it would be great.
Baffled in Boston, 6/7/2008
You
probably have what is called a multiport valve. It has several
positions. For your inground vinyl pool, you should select the filter
position. If you have a main drain, there should be additional valves near
the filter or multiport. This enables you to use either the main drains,
the skimmers or both. Normally both are used for daily operations.
To use the vacuum, close off the main drain and the skimmer furthest away (there
should be a moveable plate inside the skimmer). If you don't know what to
do about vacuuming, please refer to the archives under "Pool
Maintenance." The water level should not change during vacuuming,
unless you are vacuuming to waste and that is not the common vacuuming
practice. The backwash multiport position is used for cleaning the
filter. The recirculate position is for bypassing the filter. I hope
that this information solves your dilemma. Good luck.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 6/7/2008
►
Rising Salt Level?
I recently bought a Tracer PockeTester, from your website. I am quite
satisfied, with the convenience and reliability of the tester, which I use
to monitor the salt levels in the pools, on my service route, that have a
salt chlorinator. While I like the convenience of a salt chlorine
generator, I never got around to putting one on my pool, in the 3 years
since it was built. I use a combination of a trichlor feeder and
lithium shock. For no other reason, other than curiosity, I tested the
tap water and found a salt level or 600 PPM. That is not uncommon or
unexpected in this area. I then tested the pool water and found a salt
level of 2000 PPM. That came as a major surprise, since I have never
adding any salt. Is there an explanation? Stephen
S., 6/30/2010
Evaporation!!!! Finding high levels of
salt or TDS is nothing new and affects most pools, that are a few years old.
Assuming that you have a typical inground pool, you can lose 2-inches of
water a week. Possibly more, in the summer, in a hot dry location. That 2-inch loss
represents 2-3% of the water volume, depending on the presence and size of
the hopper area. Even allowing
for rainfall to replenish 1/2 of the lose, you are still adding about 10 PPM
of salt, every time, you top off the pool, with the water containing 600 PPM
of salt. 10 PPM a week, for 3 years, and you can easily reach 2,000
PPM of salt: almost as much as some pools with salt chlorine
generators. Even pools without a salt chlorine generators
present, can have significant levels of salt and TDS. Relentlessly,
evaporation causes salt and TDS level to rise. Pump outs, splash outs and backwashing will slow
the rate of increase, However, no matter what the salt level will rise
substantially, over time, when you are dealing with water than contains 600
PPM of salt. If you were to use liquid chlorine the rate of salt
increase would be even higher. Measure your own average weekly
evaporational water loss and calculate the % lost. Multiply this by
the PPM of salt content of the new water and you have the weekly rise in
salt. You don't have to have a
salt
chlorine generator to end up
with salt in the pool. The levels are not enough to taste, so it goes
by unnoticed, so long as the overall water chemistry is good. If the
pool did have the salt chlorine generator, with water containing the
appropriate amount of salt, the levels would rise even more. Thank you
for writing an for encouraging me to put it to the numbers test.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
7/1/2010
► Save The
Frogs?
We have an inground pool and seem to attach a
lot of frogs. Sometimes, I am able to
 scoop
them out and, other times, I find them dead. What is the best way to deal
with this problem?
Fran J., SC, 3/3/2008
The
Critter Skimmer
will do the job. It is a skimmer cover, in round or square sizes,
that replaces the standard cover. It has an attached spiral, that acts as
an escape ramp for frogs and other small critters. The water flow, into
the skimmer, almost pushes them on to this escape spiral. Sounds
like just what you are looking for.
Sincerely. Alan
Schuster, 3/3/2008
|
Save the Frogs
from drowning!!! |
► Auto-Leveler Keeps The Pool
Full?
What is the easiest way to make sure that our
inground pool's water level does not drop too low, while we are away on
vacation? I would rather to something before we leave and not risk damage
to my pump. Besides, if the pump runs dry, my salt chlorine generator
wouldn't work and who know what kind of algae bloom we'll come home to. I
would rather not have to depend on rainfall alone. Thanks for any
suggestions.
Jessica T, Smithtown, NY, 3/4/2009
What you need is a
Auto-Leveler.
There is a modestly priced product, that requires no installation and will
automatically keep the pool filled to a preset level, of your choice.
You simple attach it to a garden hose and place it on top of the coping, with
the end extending into the pool. When the level gets too low, it allows
water to flow into the pool. For more information, please click here:
Auto-Leveler.
I'm sure that this is what you're looking for.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
3/4/2009
► Chlorine Bleached A Spot?
I am not exactly sure how it happened, but a 3" trichlor
chlorine tablet ended up in the middle of the shallow end of the pool. It
was there for at least several hours and bleached the color out, in the
immediate area. The liner is fairly new and I hate to look at this
eyesore. Can it be re-colored? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Howard B., Wilmington, NC, 3/23/2010
So far as I know, there is no way to
color it over and it would never be a match. What you can do is use an
underwater
Pool Decal
and position it over the bleached area. These products can be used
underwater, so draining will be unnecessary. There are lots of choices, in
terms of size and depiction. It would be an easy and attractive solution.
It will even help strengthen the affected area, in case any damage was done.
I hope the suggestion is helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
3/23/2010
►
Electrical Concerns?
We have a 24 round above
ground pool. I would always let my kids in the pool with the pump running. (They
like the water flow when they swim.) My husband said I should not let them in
with the pump running in case there is an electrical malfunction. He said they
might get electrocuted. Other people have their pump running, and what about a
hot tub? Is he right about the possibility? Also, I have a mineral purifier and
only Poly Algaecides can be used in the pool with it. Is my Algaecide a Poly?
Alkyl (c14 c16 c12)Dimethyl benzyl Ammonium chloride. Thank you so much.
The Wife, 6/26/2004
Pumps are
normally run the pool or spa is being used. All electrical equipment
must manufactured to code be protected with a GFI (Ground Fault Interrupter), to
guard against electrical shocks. As long a you pool was properly installed
according to codes, there is no reason that the pool cannot be used in the
normal manner. The algaecide product that you are referring to is known as
a "Quat." This product is of limited effectiveness and causes some foaming
of the water. A polymer algae can be used with
mineral sanitizers, is much
more effective and will not cause foaming. But it is more expensive.
The chemical name is long and repeats the phrase "dimethyliminio." I hope
that the website was helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 6/27/2004
►
An Automatic Pool
Vacuum?
We have an inground vinyl pool,
18' X 36' and are considering buying an automatic pool vacuum. Do they
really do an effective cleaning job? Any recommendations? Thank you.
The T. Family,
11/1/2003
Automatic Pool Vacuums are
really great products.
Not only do they do an effective vacuuming of the
bottom, these products improve the water clarity and because th ey
improve the circulation, across the bottom, make algae growth less likely.
I have had three different types: one that required a separate booster
pump, a
Robotic Pool Cleaner that operated on
low-voltage and a suction side cleaner that attached
to the skimmer. They all worked, but without a doubt the Robotic Pool
Cleaner worked the best.
It cleaned all the surfaces: bottoms, walls, steps and the waterline area.
They are much less expensive to operate than the units with the separate booster
pumps. This is no installation and it does not interfere with the pump or
the filter operation. In fact, it acts as a second filter. There are
advantages and disadvantages to consider. The costs of the units vary
considerably and there are operating costs to consider. What is in your
budget? How much are you willing to pay for greater convenience?
How much use do you expect to give the unit? Answering these questions
will help you decide on the best choice for your needs. I suggest that you
pay a few local pool dealers a visit, in order to see a range of available
products, costs and convenience factors. I'm sure that you'll be happy
with your choice. Automatic Pool Vacuums are one of those products that
can be controlled by a pool automation system. Good luck and enjoy the
season.
Sincerely. Alan
Schuster, 11/1/2003
►
Vinyl Tear?
I have a small above round
pool with an inflated to ring. There are outlets for the filter on the
side of the pool. A leak has developed where the hose attaches to the
side. I know that the pool is inexpensive, but I would like to make a
repair. Is it possible. Thank you.
Emily T., NJ, 7/28/2004
You can
probably solve the problem with an adhesive patch. Boxer Adhesives
makes an
adhesive patch that can be used underwater and is safe to use with
your type of
pool. They offer a complete line of repair items and more complete
information can be obtained by visiting their website at:
www.boxeradhesives.com You should not use solvent based products to repair thin walled vinyl
pools, such as yours, as this is very likely to
cause damage to the vinyl. I hope that this
product will help you get some more use of your pool.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 7/28/2004
►
Vacuuming A Small Pool?
I have only of those
inexpensive pools with a liner suspended from a pole. The vacuum I use is
just about useless. It works with a garden hose and only seems to move the
dirt around. It will catch a leaf, but not the small stuff. Is there
an easy, inexpensive solution? Thank you.
Belinda T, 3/3/2008
The
best vacuums are either have self contained filters or use the pool's filter.
In your case, you have neither. That garden hose vacuum uses water flow to
suck in debris, but it is not effective and could be a waste of water. There
is a hand-held vacuum that is battery-powered, hoseless and fully portable.
It is reasonably and affordably priced and is perfect for all types of small
pools, kiddie pools and even spas. It will make for a much cleaner pool. Enjoy the season.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 3/30/2004
|
Go
cordless and get the job done easily!!! |
►
Vinyl Liner
Maintenance?
Alan, I have an above ground
pool (28 ft diameter, 4 ft walls, approx. 5' deep in center). The liner is
about 10 years old and has several problems, so we are going to replace it.
I was wondering if you could suggest things that would reduce the problems we
have seen? I was told that a standard liner (not expandable would work for
this pool? Question #1. The pool had a solid blue liner and when we
bought the house. It had a dark discoloration around the water line (plus
or minus 3 inches). Some one told us that it was sun tan oil, etc.
It would not clean off no matter what we did. We thought about replacing
with a tile border patterned liner, but really think that the solid blue is most
economical and did not want to see the "stain" on our new liner. Will
regular cleaning prevent it? What suggestions do you have? Question
#2. The liner is degrading above the water line. Small holes are
appearing in several places. We patched large areas last year, but it
appears that the Sun is degrading the liner. Is there a way to minimize
this or do the new liners have better UV protection, etc.? Do the more
expensive 25 mil liners (or colored liners) last significantly longer?
Question #3. We also saw (last year) some small indentations an inch wide
and several inches long under the pool liner. Almost like the sand had
washed out. Question #4. The skimmer is looking old and brittle.
Is it a good idea to replace it too, when we replace the liner or do they last
and function more than 10 years normally? Question #5. When we
replace the liner do we remove it completely? Someone once suggested
cutting it into strips and leaving it as a pad. Thanks for your help.
Don, 4/29/2004
So many questions. #1.
Deposits of sun tan products, cosmetic residues, body oils, air pollutants and
other m iscellaneous things can accumulate at the water line. Sometimes
these materials react with the plasticizers in the vinyl and over a long period
a problem can start. There are liner replacement borders available.
For product
and ordering information on BorderLines, click here. Enzyme cleaning products are useful in controlling
these buildups. #2. The problem could be UV related.
Today's liners are better. Heavier gauge liner will last longer and are
more resistant to holes and tears. #3. Sounds like
erosion. Heavy rainfall or poor drainage could have caused this to
occur. You might give thought to improving the drainage, if
possible. #4. The skimmer should be replaced now. A new
skimmer might require a different size cutout. #5. I've heard
of pads, but their use is not widespread and may not be any better than the
standard pool base. Liner strips could interfere with
drainage. I would verify that a
standard liner will work, by discussing this further, with a local
dealer/installer.
I hope that I have been helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 4/29/2004
|
Easily
Create A Beautiful New WaterLine! |
►
Running The Pump 24/7?
I have an 18,000 gallon pool
and would like to run the filter motor only 12 hours a day. I was told at
a pool supply store that this would damage the motor, because it is the off and
on that wears out the motor. I have had 2 motor replacements in 12 years,
and have sometimes run it continuously and sometimes not. What is your
advice? What a great website!
Marci C., 5/25/2007
What is it with these
dealers? 24/7 is unnecessary, assuming the pump is close to the right
size! It is a waste of money and only the utility will benefit. Even if the
pump might last longer, the electrical savings will pay for a whole gaggle of
pumps, over the years. Have you noticed how energy costs have risen?
Start with 8 hours a day. Add more hours during hot weather and peak
bather usage. Less at the dead points of the season. 6-12 hours daily should
cover it all, in most properly equipped pools. Isn't owning a pool expensive
enough? Ask the dealer to show you any manufacturer's recommendation for
running it 24/7. Adding
THE CIRCULATOR
will get you better circulation in less time.
When you have algae or clarity problems, that is the
time for 24/7. I know this letter will help you save money and I hope it
was helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
5/26/2007
►
Vacuuming
Position?
We have a 32 ' long oval above
ground pool (4 feet deep). We have been told varying ways to vacuum our pool.
Should we vacuum with it on "filter" or "backwash" or
"waste". We have been having a problem with green algae and we thought
we had it licked, but when we vacuumed it last, we had it on filter and we're
afraid it just put it all back into the pool. The water gets a little greener
every day. My husband was told the shock the pool once a month, but I don't
think this is aggressive enough. We use an algaecide recommended by our pool
dealer, but it keeps coming back. How do we suck it
up once and for all? Thanks.
Cindy R., 6/11/2004
It is most common
to vacuum in the filter position. The only time you would vacuum to waste
is if there was something in the pool that you absolutely did not want to get
into the filter. Algae does not fall into this category. Vacuuming
to waste will waste water and accomplish little or nothing in your
case. Given
the circumstances of visible green algae, shocking once a month is not good
advice. You must shock repeatedly, until you are able to maintain a
1-3
PPM level of Free Chlorine, after an overnight period.
Afterwards, begin normal chlorination and shock after the Free Chlorine level
zeroes out, there are signs of algae, there are signs of a loss of water
quality, after periods of heavy bather usage and after heavy rainfall. The
filter will help remove dead algae, especially, if you add a dose of a
"Blue" Clarifier, but you will not be able to control the algae
without proper Free Chlorine levels. I hope that I have been helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 6/11/2004
►
Grounding Line Needs
Repair?I recently discovered that my
pool ladder and hand rail are no longer grounded. It would
be a major job to install or repair the grounding line, as the
pool is completely surrounded by decking. Is there an
alternative to this unappealing solution? Thanks for any
help, you can offer.
Henry T., Orlando, Florida, 2/2/2009
It will probably
be less expensive and certainly less destructive, if you replace
the ladder and rail with one made of composite materials.
Because it not made of metal, grounding is not required.
As a bonus, it will be cooler to the touch, unaffected by
corrosive chemicals.
You will solve the problem and end up with a better looking
pool.
I hope that I have been helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 2/2/2009
►
Setting The Return Flow?
I’m new to pool maintenance and
have a 5000 gal above ground pool. My question is on the water return into the
pool; should there be a “breakage” of the water surface or should the return be
aimed to stay below the surface without breakage? I have heard from friends
that by breaking the surface it increases the “agitation” of the water and helps
with pool maintenance. Thanks in advance.
Thomas, W., Florida, 3/23/2009
You want
the return flow to gently disturb the surface, so it can help move floating
debris to the skimmer. Poor circulation can make algae growth more
likely. You might consider adding
THE CIRCULATOR:
the easy to install device will eliminate the dead spots that can promote algae
growth. I hope that I have been helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 3/23/2009
► Device To Remove Excess Water?
We live in Ohio and have an inground 14 X
28 vinyl pool. My concern is when we have a heavy rain, the pool fills up
very quickly. If we are at home during the storm we can pump it out. So far
when we have been away, we have been lucky. But someday that may change. I
would like to install an overflow pipe that would allow the excess water to
drain out at the maximum level. Numerous times, I have contacted the
company that installed the pool, but I have almost given up on trying any
more. When we were in North Carolina, I asked a pool company how they
avoided pools over flowing. They use on overflow pipe in the
fiberglass pools they install. Do you have any suggestion for information
where I can I check into something like this?
Mike M.,
Shelby, Ohio, 1/29/2007
You
could have a leveling device installed in the skimmer. It will
help remove excess water, during periods of heavy rainfall. When
water reaches a certain point, it will flow out of the skimmer. I
really don't have first hand experience with this type of product, but
there may be several types, in use. Some might be best installed
with a new pool, as retrofitting might be difficult or expensive.
I hope that this information is helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
1/29/2007
I have been through chlorine
purgatory trying to rid my pool of a constant low chlorine problem. I have
switched companies that test and the new company advised me how on how to treat
my pool problems and they are suggesting that I have Mustard algae, which I
would agree with after reading your advice column. Can't keep the chlorine up
regardless of what I do and every time I shock the pool it turns to white foam
on the surface and the next day the water is clear but there is a brown silt on
the bottom of the pool that looks like dirt or sand but when brushed floats away
like a cloud. When it is vacuumed it goes away but is back on the bottom the
next day in smaller amounts. I am treating it with a copper algaecide and I am
wondering how to clean the bottom of my automatic cover to make sure it is not
on the cover also. Or is this step even necessary? I am brushing the
sides rigorously and vacuuming and washing filters almost daily while keeping up
the Chlorine to 5+. Am I doing it right and is this the way to rid the
problem. Thank you.
Jack M. 6/18/2008
You seem to
be on the right track and adding a copper algaecide could help make
the difference. Cleaning the
automatic cover might be helpful. You can raise the water
level and make sure the free
chlorine level is elevated and let the chlorine reach the underside.
There is a product that can be used for
this purpose, as well of lots of other uses, as well The
Water Broom
will use pressurized water streams to clean the cover and wash the debris
out. Unfortunately, it will end up in
the pool. I would suggest having the free chlorine at 10 PPM, before this
is done and be prepared to add more chlorine, if required. This sort of
thing, might need to be done yearly, when the pool is opened.
Poor circulation can make algae growth more likely. You might consider
adding
THE CIRCULATOR.
The easy to install device will eliminate the dead spots that can promote
algae growth. I hope that this information proves helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 6/18/2008
►
A Pool In Need Of Help?
Hi,
Alan, my
wife and I bought our first home and it came with a pool. I'm not sure
of the dimensions but I do know it has a shallow end of 3ft and a deep end of
8ft. I also know it is 30ft wide and is rectangular. It has an
built in spa attached to it also. It has been a headache trying to get
this thing going. We have a D.E. Filter and a heater. Upon
the pool inspection, the inspector went to light the pilot on the heater and a
small burst of flames broke out. He stated the heater should be
replaced. It is very costly and I wanted to know if there is a way to
heat the spa without replacing the heater. Also, there is a small
crack at the bottom of the filter grid holder in my filter tank. Can the
filter still operate in this condition? I cleaned the filter and it took
forever to figure out how they go back in there, but I finally got it!
Now I can't get the lid back on. I thought I put it back on correctly
but when I turned the pump on the lid blew off. Immediately, I ran to
turn the filter off and my wife got a big laugh. Also, this one pool
company suggested that I get the pool acid washed. Is this really
necessary? From reading some of your articles on the web site, it
seems that the right chemicals could prevent this. Thanks.
Sam, 4/23/2004
So many
questions - so little time! You need a heater to have a heated
spa. There are different types of heaters that might be suitable, but
without a heater it would not be a "spa." I am not a filter
expert, but if there is a crack in the grid holder it may be a problem.
If
the water is passing through the crack, instead of the filter media, it is
decreasing your filter efficiency. I would replace the part. So
far as putting the filter back together, I suggest that you pay a local pool
professional (that handles that particular brand) and ask for some
instructions. It is normal for masonry pools to be periodically
acid-washed. This will help brighten and renew the surfaces and help
remove stains. There is no way for me to tell if your pool is in
serious need of an acid wash or it is something that would just improve the look
of the pool. Are you satisfied with the appearance of the pool?
The
periodic addition of a
quality mineral treatment can help reduce the possibility
of stains due to trace metals. Adding a dose prior to adding makeup
water is a good idea.
Another thing to consider is to call in a service
company to help get things started on a proper footing. It would be an
educational experience for you. I hope that I have been helpful.
You'll enjoy the pool, when the mercury rises!
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 4/23/2004
►
Surface Pitting?
I purchased
a home with a pool that was built in 1976. Over the years it has developed
around 12 areas where the surface has deteriorated. What is the best way to
repair these areas and what should I use. Algae keeps on hiding in these
areas and causing a problem. Thank you.
Mark B., Angleton, Texas,
5/28/2005
Surface
defects, pitting and cracks can be easily repaired - even underwater. Boxer
adhesives offers an
underwater epoxy kit that allows
permanent repairs to be made easily, to surfaces that are above or below the
water surface. Draining is not necessary! The epoxy material is white in
appearance and can be painted or plaster over at any time. I hope that
this information proves helpful.
Sincerely. Alan
Schuster, 5/28/2005
►
Vacuum Problem?
I have a question that I hope you can answer.
When I run my pole vacuum, some of the debris is being sent back into the pool
thru the jets. Does that mean that the filter has a hole in it, or can it be
something else. I'm pretty new to pool maintenance, so hopefully you can give
me a few ideas for the problem. Thanks.
Barry, 3/30/2004
Debris should
not be entering the pool. It probably means that something is damaged or
not assembled properly. If you have a sand filter, it is probably
channeled. In short, you are recirculating the water and not filtering.
Make sure that multiport valve is set on filter. Ever consider a
robotic pool cleaner? It does it all and has its own built-in
micro-filter. For more about this product visit:
www.smartpool.com If everything seems to be in the proper place, you might ask
a local dealer to run through the vacuuming procedure. Enjoy the season.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 3/30/2004
►
How Do You
Vacuum?
I have a 24' above ground pool.
I am a pool novice. How do you vacuum? What do you attach
vacuum/hoses to? How long should vacuum run? Thank
you very much.
Michael K., 5/6/2003
Here goes!
Leave the filter in the filter cycle. If you have more than one skimmer,
close off the one furthest away from the pool pump. If there is a main
drain, close it off. Stretch the vacuum hose across the surface, from the
skimmer intake to a return on the opposite side. Make sure that the end,
near the skimmer is above the surface and will be able to plug into the opening
at the bottom of the skimmer. The end near the return will attach to the
vacuum head on the end of a pole. Before attaching the vacuum head, place
the end in front of the return, so that water is forced through the hose.
As soon as you see water coming out of the other end of the hose near the
skimmer, attach the hose to the vacuum head and submerge. Plug the other
end into the bottom of the skimmer. The purpose of this is to purge air
from the vacuum hose, so that the pump does not lose prime. At this point
the vacuum is running. It may take a few minutes for the water flow to
build up, due to entrapped air. There may be an air bleed valve on your
filter, which can be opened to help remove air from the lines and filter.
Use the vacuum end in such a way as to completely slowly traverse the
bottom. This will remove the visible dirt and the hard-to-see silt.
Obvious debris can be touched up. The debris probably will probably
accumulate in the strainer in your pump. You will have to empty this and
clean it out accordingly, depending upon the amount of debris being removed.
It is easier to do that it is to explain. By the way, there are such
things as
robotic pool cleaners. Good luck and enjoy the
pool. Glad to be of help.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 5/6/2003
►
Oily Film?
I've found it virtually impossible to keep the
exposed portion of my inground pool vinyl liner clean. I've tried products from
pool stores specifically designed for this purpose, dish soap, liquid household
cleaners, brushes and rags. However, I've had no luck. If I rub my finger along
the exposed portion, the somewhat greasy residue comes off onto my finger.
Someone suggested using apple cider vinegar. Do you have any suggestions?
Len S., Hillsdale NJ, 6/5/2004
Be careful.
Sooner or later you might try something that could damage the liner!!!
Probably the oily residue is from suntan preparations, cosmetic residue or body
oils. It is not from one of the pool chemicals.
I
suggest that you try adding an enzyme product to the pool water. Used on a
regular basis these products will help to decompose organic oily films and
residues.
There are also oil-absorbent products that can placed in the skimmer.
These bags or packets can help remove oily films, as the water passes through or
over them. Everything else should remain the same. I hope that I have been helpful.
I doubt that the vinegar can be used to any great effect. Enjoy
the season.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 6/5/2004
►
French Drain
Problem?
We had a vinyl
inground pool installed last spring. We had it closed by our pool company in
October. One month later the liner was floating in the entire pool! They came
out and drained water out from under the liner thru our French drain that was
installed during installation. I was sent a bill for 300.00. Four months
later, in March, it has happened again. The company has told me they do not
understand why this is happening and don't know what to tell me. We have
30,000.00 of work out back and can't even open our pool for the second season.
How can this problem be rectified, if any. How has all this water under the
liner compromised the integrity of my pool? I have scheduled a meeting
with a lawyer and have taken some pics too. Should our French drain line be
installed to a separate pump, so it can be operated in the winter? HELP!
Lisa, 4/9/2005
I am a
chemist, not a pool builder. So, please, do not take anything that I say
on this topic as the final word. The liner floated up because the water
table was higher than the pool water level. There are probably several
ways to help solve the problem, but I am no expert on this matter. I think
that a float switch, controlling a separate pump, for the French drain, would
help avoid a repeat. All that water under the liner may have cause the
hopper to reshape itself. This could result in liner wrinkles. If a
separate pump could be controlled by a float switch, it might allow for year
round avoidance of the problem. It is possible that recent heavy rains or
a rise in the water table have contributed to the problem. There are
dealers that specialize in building in high water table situations.
Perhaps, you can discuss options with them. Hopefully, they will be
objective. Good luck and please let me know how it turns out.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 4/9/2005
►
Cleaning The
Liner?
Hi Alan,
we
live in Minnesota and have a above ground pool. This year we decided to
drain the water, and put fresh water in it. The question is: what do I use to clean the liner? I thought maybe diluted
liquid bleach. Am I right or wrong? We are doing this today.
Sunday.
Nameless, MN, 4/26/2003
WRONG!
Completely
draining the pool might result in the vinyl liner shrinking. Even diluted bleach could be hundreds of times
more concentrated than the concentrations used in a pool. The result could
be bleaching of the liner. I never recommend draining a vinyl pool,
unless it is a splasher type or there is absolutely no choice and your case is
not in that category.
Shocking the pool and the use of a soft brush will
usually do the trick. Mineral stains might require additional
treatment. Refer to the archives for additional information on related
topics. I hope that the nothing serious happened to the pool. Enjoy
the season.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 4/27/2003
►
Frequency Of Draining A Pool?
My mother lives in Lake Havasu
City Arizona. She had a pool installed approximately 4 years ago. She has been
told by pool cleaner that she needs to completely drain her pool periodically.
On your website I do not see this. I would think that she may only need to have
the metal treatment. She has been told by another person that they have not
drained their pool in 30 years. Can you advise me which is correct. Her pool
is clean and beautiful. Thank you.
Deborah L. Lake Havasu City, AZ, 4/30/2009
Draining a pool
periodically helps to eliminate the buildup of unwanted chemicals and lowers the
total dissolved solids. Draining a pool involves the risk of
collapse, popping up or floating the liner, depending upon the type of pool and
the circumstances, A better solution is to replace 20% of the water every
year. In some cases, this is done to lower the stabilizer level,
to backwash the filter or to lower the level for winterizing. In other
words, some water is being replaced, as part of normal pool operations.
Partial replacement may not be absolutely necessary, in all cases, but it is the
safest course of action. TDS is another way. When the TDS rises 1000
PPM above the starting point, exclusive of any salt added, it might be time to
start partial replacement. The same could be true, if there are sanitizer
effectiveness, clarity or scaling issues. I hope that this
information is helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 5/1/2009
►
Draining An
Inground Pool?
I need instructions on how to drain an in ground pool. ASAP!
Thanks!
Marky, 5/10/2004
I'm glad that you took the time to write. There is no way that I can tell you how to drain the pool. You provided no details. Depending upon the type of pool,
gunite or vinyl, the procedures could be quite different. I suggest that you
direct the question to the builder or someone very familiar with your type of
pool. Remember this! Vinyl liners can shrink and walls are held in place by the water as well as the construction.
A pool should be emptied only as a last resort. Good luck.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 5/10/2004
►
Overwhelmed?
I recently purchased a home in Woodland, CA with a inground pool. The
vinyl liner was replaced by the previous owner in 1999. My
concern is cleaning and water chemistry but I am totally overwhelmed by the
number of products on the market. Can you narrow down the list of
essentials I should keep on hand for proper maintenance of a vinyl lined pool. Thank
you.
Colleen T., Woodland Hills, CA, 4/23/2003
You need to
maintain a proper chemical balance, as well as adequate levels of pool
sanitizer. I suggest that you bring in a water sample for a water
analysis into a local pool professional. The tests are usually
complimentary and will help determine what is needed to balance the water
chemistry and to address any problems that are found. You must
decide on a sanitizer. If you choose chlorine, the most popular, I
suggest that you use an built-in chlorinator. Thereafter, you should
require a pH Increasing chemical, algaecide and a weekly shock treatment. Other
chemicals might be required based on the water analysis. Read thru
some of the other areas of the archives for additional information. I
hope that I have been helpful. Enjoy the pool.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 4/23/2003
►
Drain, Clean Or Acid
Wash?
Hi Alan,
I have a play pool ~7500 gallons. I use it
regularly (daily) during the summer (I live in Gilbert, AZ. It's about
5 years old and the water has never been changed. The old owners used to
let their dog in it constantly, they were here about 2 years. The
plaster has a little discoloration. Sometimes during the summer, it tastes
salty. I make sure to test it weekly at a minimum and keep it balanced
as best as possible. Just wondering if I need to have it acid washed
professionally? OR. If I could just drain it, rinse it down well
with something you recommend, and then refill it? OR. Is there
anything else you may recommend. Thanks much!
Rob, Gilbert, AZ, 2/17/2004
The stain
might be something that could be removed either by a shock treatment or by
lowering the pH into the acid ranges, for a day or so, and adding a dose or two
of a quality metal treatment. The stain could be either algal or mineral
and there is no way for me to be more specific. Your pool might need to be
drained and/or have its water partially replaced depending upon the water
chemistry. I suggest you have a sample of pool water and tap water tested
for: pH, TA, cyanuric acid, calcium hardness and Total Dissolved
Solids. The results should help you decide. If the calcium,
stabilizer or TDS are too high, water replacement might be advisable. If
the water is going to be replaced, it might be worthwhile having the pool acid
washed, as it will get a bright new look. The salty taste might be related
to the pH, as it is not at all likely that it could be due to the actual salt
content. The dogs may have made "contributions," but I doubt that this
caused continuing problems. Having the water tested, is where to start.
If unsure, get back to me with the test results.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 2/17/2004
►
Water Replacement Frequency?
I have a 20,000 gallon in ground pool located in
Palm Springs California. I’ve gotten conflicting reports as to whether or not
to drain the pool and replace the water. The pool is about 4 years old and has
the original water in it. My question is: Does an in ground pool need to
have its water changed periodically and if so when should it be done?
Thanks.
Bill B., Palm Springs, CA 12/21/2006
There is no
definitive answer for this question, as it does depend on the nature of the
local water. In the northern areas, water replacement is not common because
of the winterizing process. In your case, water should be replaced if the
calcium hardness, TDS or cyanuric acid results have risen to a point, where
a reduction is required. I suggest that you have the pool and tap water
tested and make a decision based on the test results. Chemicals are
constantly adding to the dissolved salt level and evaporation will
concentrate them even further. Eventually, pools in southern areas can
benefit from a partial or complete change of the water. If you are using a
stabilized chlorine, a cyanuric acid level over 150 PPM is reason enough to
replace water. Problems with scaling, clarity and a reduction in
sanitizer effectiveness can result from a TDS that has built up over the
years. I hope that this information will prove helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 12/21/2006
►
Main Drain Concerns?
I recently took the plastic
main drain cover off of my inground pool. There is a plug that has tape on the
threads, but apparently was never screwed into the hole on the bottom. This is
dirt and small rocks inside the pipe where the plug should have gone. What
should I do? Is it something major to be concerned about? Thanks in advance.
Dr. H. E., 1/31/2004
It was
probably a careless error not screwing the fitting into place. The pebbles
and dirt probably entered through the cover while the filter was off - otherwise
I think it would have entered the intake pipe. A few small pebbles are not
enough to block a 1-1/2" or 2" pipe and will end up in the pump strainer basket.
If you haven't already done so, vacuum the debris out. I hope that I have been
helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 2/1/2004
►
What's Involved In
Acid Washing?
I've been told that my pool needs to be acid
washed. What's involved and is it something that I can do myself?
Thanks.
Jack L., Scottsdale, AZ,
3/23/2005
Acid washing requires the
complete draining of the pool. Muriatic acid is applied to the walls
and brushed to dissolve the surface layer. It is a messy and unpleasant
experience, that you might want to leave to a professional.
Products
are available that can make the acid washing chore easier and less unpleasant.
These products cause the muriatic acid solution to thicken and that allows for
less acid being used and easier application.
Pool dealers, in your area,
should carry such a product. Good luck and make sure that you wear rubber
gloves and eye protection.
Sincerely. Alan
Schuster, 3/23/2005
►
Vacuuming: Is There A
Trick?
Every time I hook up the vacuum
it seems to take forever for the suction to build up. Am I missing
something? Thank you.
Greg R., Scottsdale, AZ,
10/5/2005
There's no trick to
vacuuming, just some work. It might simply be a case of your not purging
the air from the vacuum hose line. If you don't do this, the filter will
fill up with air, lose efficiency and not move a lot of water, until the proper
flow rate returns. Next time you vacuum do this! Place the vacuum hose
across the pool surface from the skimmer closest to the pump and stretching to a
return jet on the opposite side of the pool. Reach underwater and
place the end of the vacuum hose in front on the return, allowing water to flow
through the hose. As soon as water comes out of the other end, attach to
the vacuum head and insert the other end to the skimmer intake. Make
sure all other skimmers and the main drain are closed, in order to maximize
suction. The rest is up to you.
Have you considered an
automatic pool vacuum?
They do a good job. I hope that I have been
helpful. Have fun!
Sincerely. Alan
Schuster, 10/5/2005
►
Bird Droppings?
I didn't see anything about
bird droppings in your questions list. Sorry if I missed it and this is a repeat
question. I'm a first time inground pool owner. I've been getting a lot of bird
droppings in my pool over the last few weeks. I know this is a common
problem. I've got my chlorine and pH and total alkalinity levels in the
good range. After the bird droppings are removed, is there any health risk
to swimming in the pool, getting pool water in eyes or mouth, etc? Is
there anything else I should do to clean the pool of any unsanitary
contaminants? Would a pool clarifier or other additive help?
Robert K., 5/15/2007
It has been asked. Keeping the
free chlorine level at 1-3 PPM helps to sanitize the water and decompose the
organic wastes contributed by our feathered friends. Test the water
daily, if the problem persists, as this will deplete free chlorine and may
require higher rates of addition. If the amount is gross, boost the free
chlorine to 3 PPM and keep it there for at least 30 minutes, before using the
pool. If it continues, shock once a week. Sunday evening is the best
time, in most cases. Get yourself a life like owl and move it from
place to place around the pool. It might scare them away. Home improvement
stores usually carry something, on this order. I hope this information
helps.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 5/15/2007
►
Mites?
I can see mites or
something that look like mites living at the water line, how can you control
this problem, they live mainly around the pool filter and from the water line to
the border. Thanks.
Maria R., Houston TX, 5/11/2004
Adding
insecticide is not an option! Try this. Add an initial dose of a
"quat" algaecide. The ingredient should be dimethyl benzyl
ammonium chloride or something very similar. The product will not kill the
mites. However, it will act as a wetting agent and make it more difficult
for the mites to remain on the surface of the water. Hopefully, they will
drown. Good luck and I hope that I have been helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 5/12/2004
►
Necessary To Seal Decking?
What does the salt do to the grout on the decking
of the pool? I heard that it needs to be sealed to prevent erosion.
Is that correct and are there any other corrosive problems that I need to know
about? Thanks.
Marcus L., 3/21/2007
If you want the decking and grout
to maintain its appearance for as long as possible, it should be sealed.
Not all grouts are the same and some decking may be more resistant, but
sealing should help protect the materials from the effects of all types of pool
chemicals. If possible, check with the contractor. I hope
that I have been of assistance.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
3/21/2007
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