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The Quest For Crystal Clear Water
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Scroll down to browse
through some archived SWIMMING POOL questions and answers.
Please access the Pool Topics Page and other links, at the top of
every page, for additional information.
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Pool filter problems are actually mechanical in nature, but manifest themselves
in ways that can make them appear to be chemical problems. An inefficient
or ineffective filter can lead to cloudy, hazy, dull pool water - just like a
chemical problem!!! Inadequate filter cycles can add to difficulties in
controlling algae. Ultimately, it should be the filter that removes
particles from the pool water. Chemicals can decompose or destroy
byproducts, dead algae and debris, but it is the pool filter that may have to
remove them. Some chemicals can help make pool filters more
efficient. Some filter systems are more efficient than others and help the chemicals work better.
Crystal clear water and optimum swimming pool water quality are not possible without the meshing of
pool filtration and chemical
treatment.
Clicking
on the underlined and highlighted
"keywords" or "catch phrases," in the archived answers will
give you access to additional information on that topic or product.
Please refer to the Glossary, if
there are terms or phrases that require explanation.
(Click on the Picture)
More information about Zeobrite® Replacement Media for Sand Filters can be found on the
Zeotech Corporation Preview Page in the "Pools & Equipment"
Product Information Section. Links are available to
connect you to their website.
►
Diatomaceous Earth (DE) Or
Sand?
Are earth (DE) filters as good or better than sand
filters?
Bill M., Columbus, OH,
8/31/2003
There is general consensus
that DE Filters are capable of removing smaller particles than sand filters.
This usually translates into better water quality and fewer water clarity
problems. However, there are
other considerations to consider, in choosing a filter. You might want to
consult with a local pool professional about the best choice for your area.
The efficiency of a sand filter can be improved by substituting
Zeobrite
sand filter replacement media for the filter sand. This product
is modestly priced, lighter in weight and longer lasting. I hope that I have been helpful.
Sincerely, Alan
Schuster, 8/31/2003
►
How Often To Replace The
Sand?
I have some questions about replacing the sand
in our pool filter. We purchased the pool in July 2001 so it has been in
use for 1 and 1/2 summer seasons. The pool is an above ground pool, 52
inches deep, and 18' round. We have not had any filtering problems but I
thought that I read somewhere that the sand should have been replaced after the
first season of use. Should I replace the sand in the filter before I use
it for the summer of 2003 or is it okay to use the same sand again this year?
Under normal operating conditions, how often should the sand in the filter be
replaced? Thanks for your response.
The Grays, 6/7/2003
Simple enough
question! But no simple answer! This is a very subjective
area. Ask multiple people and you'll get multiple answers. Unless
the filter manufacturer, instructs to the contrary, I don't see the need to
replace the sand every year or two. Much will depend upon the filter and
pool conditions. If things are working properly, I am inclined to go as
long as 3-5 years. Consider that the pool is in operation for only part of
the year. If there are problems with the pressure readings, loss water
clarity or any signs of channeling, I would consider replacing the sand.
Always use a filter grade sand or
Zeobrite sand filter replacement media.
Zeobrite can be used as a sand replacement and will produce
better results. A
modestly dirty sand filter actually works better than a clean one and it is a
mistake to backwash or replace sand with too great a frequency.
I hope that I have been helpful. Enjoy the season.
Sincerely. Alan
Schuster, 6/7/2003
►
Zeolite Use With A
Salt Chlorinator?
I have a
salt water chlorination system with a sand filter. I am investigating the
possibility of using Zeobrite instead of ordinary filter sand. Are there any
issues that I should be aware of? Would the Zeobrite still need to be recharged
with a more concentrated salt water solution periodically, since there shouldn't
be any issues with chloramines? Regards.
Terry T.,
Austin, TX, 6/2/2004
Good question! Pools with
salt chlorinators work extremely
well with
Zeobrite:
a sand filter replacement media. In a standard, chemically chlorinated
pool, Zeobrite will attract combined chlorines and hold them to the Zeobrite. In order to release the combined
chlorine, an eight to ten percent sodium chloride solution is used to reverse
the adherence of the combined chlorine, restoring and improving the filtering
performance. A follow up shock treatment will probably be required to get
the combined chlorine level to under 1 PPM. Chloramines collecting on the
surface of the Zeobrite should not be an issue with the salt chlorinating
systems, since the pool water will already have around 3,000 ppm of salt
content. This negates the need to regenerate the Zeobrite, with a high
sodium chloride solution. The effectiveness of the chlorine, produced by the salt
generator, should destroy any ammonia-based by products or chloramines, that are introduced into
the pool, at normal, typical levels. All of the water, passing through the salt chlorinator, will be free
of ammonia-based byproducts and chloramines, when the salt chlorinator is
working within its limits. Use a filter bed cleaner, at the end of the
swimming season, to remove any mineral scale, oils, scum or organic matter that
may cling to the media.
These two products work well together to produce
better water quality and better chlorination.
Enjoy the season.
Sincerely. Alan
Schuster, 6/3/2004
The Blaster - Automatic Filter Cartridge Cleaner
|
Click the
image for product and ordering information. |
►
High Cartridge Filter Pressure?
I got an inground pool last year. A
few weeks ago, I started my pump and began adding chemicals. My pump is
running at the max pressure 30 lb. I was told that the pressure should only
run between 15-20 lbs pressure. It is a cartridge filter. What do I need to do to get the pressure down?
Stacy J., 4/5/2005
Your pressure
is probably too high because of all the debris, dead algae, etc., that has been
removed. It simply needs some routine servicing. You have a cartridge filter
and you need to remove it and
thoroughly clean it with a garden hose. This procedure should be performed on a periodic basis,
usually every week or two.
There is an easy way to clean cartridge filters, that you might look into.
THE BLASTER Automatic Filter
Cartridge Cleaner uses a simple garden hose connection and
there's nothing to install. For more information go to:
www.neoterics.com I hope that I have cleared things up
and gotten on the way to better water quality.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 4/5/2005
►
Cleaning A Cartridge Filter?
We just had a new pool
installed and it has a cartridge filter. How often should it be cleaned
and how? Thanks.
Mike M., 6/24/2005
There is no set rule and it
will vary with the season. Usually, every 1-2 weeks or when the pressure
rises to the point where the water flow has diminished. Use a garden hose
and spray the cartridge from the top down and it is being rotated on one end.
Simple enough, but a little on the wet side. Depending on water chemistry
the cartridge should be soaked in diluted acid or chlorine solution, according
to the manufacturer's instruction. If
you would like to clean the filter cartridge better and with less effort, the
Blaster Automatic Filter Cartridge Cleaner
is the right product. I hope this information will help.
Enjoy the pool.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
6/25/2005
►
How Much Zeobrite Is Required?
If a pool
filter system takes 6 bags of sand (300 pounds), how much Zeobrite does it
require? What size packages are available? Is more better?
My filter is 3.0 cubic feet. Will adding more Zeobrite better improve the performance? Thank You.
Richard B.,
1/10/2005
You should require one-half of the
weight of sand, given the fact that
Zeobrite
is much lighter than sand. Zeobrite is conveniently packaged in 25 and 50-pound
bags. More is not better. Just impractical!
Each
50 pound bag of Zeobrite is approximately 1 cubic foot. This makes the
calculation very easy. In your case, you require 150 pounds or 3 cubic
feet, which comes out to 3 of the 50-pound bags.
Clearly, the water quality will be greatly improved, by simply adding the
recommended amount of Zeobrite. Have a good season.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
1/10/2005
►
Filter Cleaning With Zeobrite Media?
I know that Zeobrite has to be
regenerated with a salt solution at least once a season, but does it also have
to be cleaned? Thanks.
Ron C., Texas, 6/20/2006
The
manufacturer of
Zeobrite recommends cleaning the media
with a soaking filter cleaner that removes scale and organic oil build-up at
least once per year, as a good maintenance practice. This is addition
to the regeneration with a salt solution, that should be done at least once a
year. Other situations that would warrant cleaning the media would be
after plaster dust is removed on a new in-ground gunite pool and in extremely
high hardness conditions. Zeobrite, being somewhat of a natural water softening
mineral, will remove some calcium carbonate in high hardness conditions. The
cleaning will remove any scale build-up from these conditions. A
“Cleaning and Regeneration” product, specifically formulated for use with
zeolite filter media is available at many pool professionals. I
hope that this information will prove helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 6/20/2005
The Circulator: circulation boosting accessory
|
Click the
image for product and ordering information. |
► Effect On Backpressure?
I would like
to add The Circulators to my pool. I have a Sunheater solar system and I
don't want to cause the backpressure to rise. Can I add The Circulator, to
each of the three returns. Thanks for the chance to ask questions.
Frank M.,
Bonita Springs, FL., 3/13/2008
The Circulator will not increase the backpressure to
any great extent, as determined by a
leading pump/filter manufacturer. Adding
The Circulator Circulation Booster,
to each of your returns (3) will help get the most out of your
Sunheater Solar
System, assure better distribution of
chemicals an d eliminates the dead zones that promote algae growth. I hope
that you'll find the information helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster/
3/13/2008
►
Zeobrite Media & Salt Chlorinators?
I have an in ground pool
(76,000 Liters) with a salt water chlorinator and a gas fired heater. I
have been reading your site and using your knowledge for some time now. I
am interested in a couple of issues. The first is the discussion around
“cleaning” the sand in my filter. I have struggled with cloudy water this
summer which seems to be a result of the wet weather we have had. It seems
that every time we get a good rain fall my pool goes cloudy and develops and
algae problem. My water chemistry has been good. I will be closing the
pool in a month or so and I might as well use the heater! and I am interested
in knowing more about the need to “clean” the sand in the filter due to the
problems I have been seeing this summer. Why is this done? When is the
best performed? Is it something that should be done on a regular basis and
if so how often? My second issue is the filter media itself. What are the
benefits of me switching my media from sand to Zeobrite? Does the salt
water system I have make this type of media more beneficial or are we simply
comparing apples to apples? If it was beneficial when the best time is to
make this change, when I close the pool or when I open it in spring?
As always. Thanks for the help,
Mark H.,
Toronto, Ontario, 9/13/2006
Zeobrite
sand filter replacement media can help you remove those small
particles that might, otherwise, pass right through a sand filter.
The fact that you have a
salt chlorine generator, makes it
even easier. You will never have to regenerate the Zeobrite,
because of the salt in the water. Zeobrite will allow you to go
longer between backwashes and produce better quality water.
Occasionally, the Zeobrite filter media will need to be cleaned,
like any sand filter: once a season should be more than adequate
for a pool like yours. I suggest that you test the water
for free chlorine and determine that a level of 1-3 PPM is being
maintained. Test the salt level, to make sure that it is in the
proper range. Your cloudy water and algae problems may more related
to the free chlorine level and not totally related to the filter
performance. Areas of poor circulation create dead zones that
promote algae growth, even when the water tests out well. Better circulation assures better
distribution of the sanitizing chemicals and makes algae problems less likely.
The Circulator is an easy-to-install
device that will dramatically improve circulation and eliminate any dead zones.
I hope that I have been helpful.
Sincerely. Alan
Schuster, 9/13/2006
►
Regenerating Zeobrite Filter Media?
Thanks for
all the great info on your site! We just replaced our sand in our filter with
Zeobrite media. The immediate improvement in water clarity was amazing! I am
wondering if there is anything we need to do different with pool care,
chemicals, etc now that we are using this. Each spring when we open our pool, we use a super floc. (we have a mesh security cover). Will we still be able
to use this or would that not be advisable now with the Zeobrite. Just asking to
be prepared for next year. Also should we still be using a clarifier weekly, as
we have been for the past several years. We have read that the Zeobrite needs to
be regenerated with salt water solution. How often is that necessary? Thanks
again for the service you provide.
Annette,
6/16/2004
You should find less need to use
clarifiers because of the improved filtration. If it necessary to
regenerate
zeolites at least once a season, in
outdoor, residential pools.
Zeobrite help remove chloramines from
the pool water and regeneration restores the ability of the filter media to
perform this important function. Individual pool circumstances can vary
greatly and regeneration should be considered, whenever shock treatment to
control the combined chlorine level becomes more frequent. Regenerate as
follows:
1. Drain
the existing water from the filter, then close the inlet and outlet valves.
2. Mix the
salt solution, 3 pounds of salt in five gallons of water, in a plastic
container.
3. Open the
filter vessel and pour the salt solution to completely cover the Zeobrite filter
media.
4. Allow
the salt solution to stand in the media bed for a minimum of four hours.
5. Backwash
the salt solution out the discharge drain with a backwash cycle.
6. Resume
normal filtration of the pool water.
If you have ever given thought about
getting a salt chlorine generator, you might be interested to know that it will
totally eliminate the need to regenerate the zeolite media. I hope that the information will
prove helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
6/16/2004
►
Zeobrite Regeneration & Ozonator?
I switched to Zeobrite this year with great
improvement in pool clarity. I use an ozonator with low level chlorine: 0.6 ppm.
Ozonators claim to minimize chloramines. What would you recommend for year end
maintenance of the zeolite filter?
Al P., 9/5/2005
I would regenerate the
Zeobrite
at least once a year, in order to help keep peak performance.
This should be a regular maintenance item performed at the end of each
season.
At the same time you might want to add a filter cleaner to help remove scale and
oily deposits. The ozonator will reduce chloramines and that is a plus.
Still, during the course of the season, some chloramines will be formed.
In areas where
pools are filled with high mineral/hard water, cleaning the media for scale
build-up once every six weeks is good maintenance.
I hope that this information is
helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
9/6/2005
► Will "The Circulator" Cause
Pressure Rise?
Was wondering what kind of back pressure these
would cause in my pump system. I would require three. Thanks.
Mark, 5/23/2008
There
should be no noticeable increase in the pressure, but
The Circulator
will make the water come alive and the dead
zones will be eliminated. You will have fewer algae problems, better
heat distribution and more effective chemical usage. I hope that
this information is helpful. Have a fun holiday weekend!
Sincerely,
Alan Schuster, 5/23/2008
►
Blocked Line?
I believe a toy got sucked into my
skimmer, after I failed to replace the basket. Any suggestions?
Keith N., Hauppauge, NY 7/14/2005
You should remove the line from
where it attaches
to the pump or multiport valve. Use a shop vacuum to blow the line
out and back into the pool. There is a simple way to
avoid toys and objects from getting sucked into the skimmer or locking the weir
in place. Skimmer guards are easy to install
and solve the problem. I hope the information proves helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
7/14/2005
►
Bumps And Clumps?
What is bumping the filter
mean? I've read it in a few of your answers. Also, when we backwash, the
little spyglass never clouds up, but does have white chunks swirling in
it. Does this mean my DE is chunked up? If so what causes that? Thanks.
Catherine, 5/29/2004
Some DE
filters have a handle that allows you to "bump" or redistribute the filter
media, instead of backwashing. These filters are usually not backwashed.
It doesn't sound like your filter can be "bumped" and needs to be backwashed
instead. The "clumping" doesn't necessarily mean anything.
"Clumps" can occur from the removal of dead algae and debris, the use of
biguanide sanitizers or "quat" algaecides or the overuse of clarifiers.
Enjoy the season.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 5/30/2004
►
Sand Vs. Zeolite:
operating costs?
Thanks for all the advice on
the web site. I have a small above ground pool (18' x 4') and I am using the
biguanide chemicals. I have a sand filter that has been great but now in it's
third season I am finding I need to run the pump about 3 times longer than last
year to avoid cloudy water. I am very tempted to switch to the zeolite, but I
was wondering, all other things equal, if it will require more electricity to
operate per gallon filtered than the sand? My intuition tells me that if
the filter works better, the pressure will be higher and the flow rate will be
lower (for a given pump), thus requiring more time to filter the entire pool. Is
this true? Has anyone ever compared the cost of electricity of sand vs.
zeolite?
Kevin W., 7/8/2004
I don't
know if studies have been done on operating costs, but I would hazard a guess
that you will get better water quality with less filter time using
Zeobrite. Sand filters can be very inefficient in removing fine
particles. With zeolite you will have effectiveness that approaches a DE
filter. There will less need to run the filter for extended periods
of time to clear up the water. You should be able to run the filter on a
more predictable cycle, so long as proper water sanitation is maintained.
For more information on Zeobrite go to:
www.zeotechcorp.com
I hope that I have cleared things up a bit. Enjoy the season.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 7/8/2004
►
Still Cloudy?
Hi Alan, first of all, thanks for spending the
time to perform this service. Many of your responses to others have
already helped us. We are new pool owners: came with the house.
It's a 20 yr inground, 25,000 gal concrete pool. We hired a company to
"open" the pool that provides this service to others in our area.
They started by shocking and adjusting water chemistry - got rid of the green,
but cloudiness remained. Then more chlorine shock ~ 5 days
later. Another 4 days, and it's still cloudy. I noticed the
pressure reading on the new instrument was ~ 25 over this entire period,
and never really changed that much (even after backwashing) - but outflow back
into the pool always decreased with time, suggesting something was retained by
the filter. Next, they tried a quart of that clarifying agent you
recommend, which improved the cloudiness somewhat You could see the bottom of
the shallow end. After 2 more days ~ 1 lb of DE powder was added to the
skimmer, which plugged the filter, so we had to backwash out. At
this point, I suggested we investigate the filter. It's not new,
and the fact the pressure doesn't change suggested channeling to me; but they
wanted to trying shocking 1 more time, so we did so today. By the way, water
chemistry was fine, except for today, we had to acidify to get back within the
normal range. We also have been backwashing 2x daily. Alan, what
is your diagnosis and recommendation? Thanks much.
J. and C., Dayton, OH, 6/4/2003
From your letter, it is safe
to assume that you have a sand filter and it is very possible that channeling
is part of the cloudy pool water problem. A defective pressure gauge is another
possibility. If you have a sand filter, an excellent way to improve
filtration is to replace the sand with
Zeobrite: a sand replacement filter media. You mentioned that you added several doses of shock, but
did not state any chlorine readings.
If
you are unable to maintain a Free Chlorine reading for a reasonable period of
time, it could be that there is still algae and debris in the pool. This
will consume the chlorine and cause a continuing clarity problem. The
key to your problem is to maintain a stable chlorine reading of 1-3 PPM for an
overnight period and maintain a properly working filtration system. The
high pH reduced the effectiveness of the chlorine, decreased the solubility of
calcium minerals and may have contributed to the problem.
The use of algaecide, a dose of "Blue" Clarifier (follow the
label--more is not necessarily better) and adding a small amount of D.E. to
the skimmer, all could be of benefit. I hope that I have been
helpful. Good luck.
Sincerely. Alan
Schuster, 6/4/2003
►
Rapidly Rising Filter Pressure?
We have a 20'x40' inground pool, 1-1/2 hp
pump and a D.E. filter. We have fantastic water pressure immediately after
bumping or flushing the filter, but the pressure builds quickly and soon the
water pressure slows way down, usually within 15-30 minutes. We are starting
this season with poor water quality and we really need constant circulation to
get it cleared up, but the pressure builds so quickly that the filter is not
doing any good. The high pressures have also caused water to seep around
the seal of the filter. I've cleaned the filter thoroughly and added D.E.,
nothing seems to help. The filter is plumbed according to the manufacturer's
specs, but there is no filter bypass. Should I add one? Should we switch to a
sand filter? This thing is just too restrictive to do any good. HELP!
Shelly and Tia,
4/12/2004
It seems
apparent that your problem is due to the clogging of the filter. The poor
water quality is causing debris and algae to slowly reduce the water flow,
raising the pressure. If you are using biguanide, it may be part of the
problem and will require an alternate treatment. If you are using a
clarifier or a quat algaecide (dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride or similar)
stop the use, at least temporarily. Add shock to the pool to boost the
Free Chlorine reading to 5-10 PPM and keep it there. Retest the water
every few hours and add more product, as needed. Keep the pH at 7.2-7.6.
Bump the filter and, if after the Free Chlorine level has be elevated, the
problem continues, you should consider cleaning the filter and replacing the DE.
A DE filter can produce excellent water quality, but can be overwhelmed by too
much material in the water. That's where I think you are. The
chlorine will change all that. If you are using biguanide, get back to me.
I hope that the information will prove helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 4/12/2004
►
Dirt In The Corners?
I have a few spots, that seem to collect dirt
and debris. I guess it follows the natural water flow in the pool. I
use a
Robo-Kleen every other day and while it does a great job, there is dirt
accumulating in a few spots. Any suggestions.
John. L. Clearwater, FL,
5/26/2005
The
Robo-Kleen
Robotic Pool Cleaner usually does a great job.
Nonetheless, new debris will settle in areas, based on the flow patterns. There is a
circulation
boosting device that can be easily installed in each return
and it will dramatically improve the circulation, by as much as 1500%.
This should help prevent dirt from accumulating in any particular spots.
And as a bonus, you'll get better chemical distribution and be less likely to
have chemical dead spots. For more information on
The Circulator, click
here. I hope that this information will prove helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 5/26/2005
►
Replacing Sand With
Zeobrite?
Alan, my husband and I
purchased a home with a pool last year. We have had some "issues" getting
good, reliable help with our pool and have resolved that we are going to have
to learn to care for it ourselves and with the help of friends and people like
you. I have been searching the internet for 2 hours now to find detailed
directions for replacing the sand in my sand filter (30,000 gallon pool) and
adding Zeobrite. Can you help? We have been told that the best time to
replace the sand is prior to opening as the sand is the driest. We were
hoping to work on it this weekend. I really appreciate your help!
Kara G., Utica, OH, 5/8/2004
It definitely
is easier to handle dry sand. You need to remove all of the sand.
While the filter is empty, clean and inspect everything. Now you're ready
to add the
Zeobrite. You will need 1/2 the
weight of sand. That is, if your filter required 300 pounds of filter
sand, you will need 150 pounds of Zeobrite.
Otherwise, you operate the filter in exactly the
same way as with sand. The difference will be in the water quality.
It will be much better.
Enjoy the season.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 5/8/2004
►
Replacing Sand?
We have an inground pool and
after shocking and putting in other chemicals needed to get the pool ready for
summer, the water is a beautiful color, but we cannot see the bottom of the
pool. We've taken in 3 water samples to our pool supply store and they have
suggested that we might need to change the sand in our filter. How expensive is
this and is it easy to do ourselves or would we be better off hiring someone?
How much does the sand cost and where do you buy it?
Bobby L., 5/15/2005
Sand should be
replaced every 3-5 years. Cost is modest and only certain types of sand is
suitable. Pool dealers should carry the right kind.
Even better than sand would be using
Zeobrite sand
filter replacement media. Zeobrite is modestly priced, weighs
1/2 as much as sand and produces much better water quality.
Sand filters can become channeled and lose their efficiency. There is some
work involved. The sand has to be removed and the filter cleaned and
inspected. Most pool owners do it themselves. Some points to
remember! Backwashing too often is a common mistake. Generally,
the filter should be backwashed only when the pressure is too high. I hope
that this information will be helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 5/15/2005
Zeobrite's Effect On
Hardness?
Reading through a
California Contractors study guide I came across a statement in their glossary
regarding Zeolite. In it they state: " Zeolite filter: Filter used to soften
water. Filter medium is zeolite, a substance which will remove calcium and
magnesium from water, replacing them with sodium. Does not remove suspended
matter from water." I live in an area that has very soft water, with little or
no calcium, we experience very aggressive water conditions. We add Calcium
Chloride to our water on a regular basis. The question that concerns me is, does
Zeobrite remove calcium and manganese from the water? I have been using
Zeobrite exclusively for all my commercial sand filter installations for years.
I use it on heavily abused resort spas in conjunction with ozone, bromine and
ORP controls. The media backwashes easily and the water is clear all the time.
My clients have reduced their water consumption, especially their draining and
refilling by an easy 75%. The savings in heating a freshly filled spa is
enormous. It's a great product and worth the extra expense.
I am concerned about the Calcium statement!
Stan Z., Mammoth Lakes CA, 12/27/2006
This
statement refers to a manmade zeolite
that has been modified to be used with water softeners.
Zeobrite is a natural mineral and can
be used in pools and spas with hardness, in the normal ranges, without any
problem. If the hardness is above 400 PPM, Zeobrite may lower the
levels and that would be of benefit to the overall water chemistry. I hope
that this has cleared up the mystery.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 12/27/2006
►
DE & Zeobrite?
I have a sand filter and
recently it filled with Zeobrite. When I used sand, I used to add some DE
to increase the efficiency or so I thought. Is this practice worth
continuing? Thanks.
Edward H., 4/22/2005
Zeobrite
in a sand filter produces much better water quality than just sand alone.
Using DE as a filter aid, with
zeolites, is not necessary or recommended.
Both DE and Zeobrite have a similar molecular structure, with rough angular
shapes of the particles. It is possible for the DE to become trapped in the
internal pores of the Zeobrite, since DE is a smaller particle. The angular
shape can cause the DE to become wedged and plug the pores of the Zeobrite and
over time actually diminish the filtering capabilities of the Zeobrite.
Hopefully this answers the question.
Sincerely. Alan
Schuster, 4/22/2005
►
Channeling Causes?
Last fall, after weeks of
struggling with cloudy water, I saw your website and concluded that the sand in
my filter was probably channeled. I replaced the sand with Zeobrite.
Since then all has been sparkly. What causes channeling? Is it
possible that Zeobrite could also become channeled? How does one prevent
channeling? Once it has happened, is replacing the filter media the only
solution? Thanks for your help!
Niki P., 7/30/2004
There are a
couple of situations where channeling can occur in
Zeobrite.
The most common occurrence happens when mineral scale builds-up in the media.
This can occur when dealing with a high mineral water source, such
as well water. It can also occur when calcium hardness is allowed to run too
high. Since Zeobrite is a natural water softening media to some degree, it can
remove and bond calcium carbonate when concentrations are high. It is suggested
to keep calcium hardness below 250ppm in pool water. A common mistake that some
pool builders make after plastering a gunite pool is to allow the plaster dust
to build-up in the filter without cleaning the media. Plaster dust contains a
high concentration of calcium carbonate. The combination of the two can create
a hard layer of media and result in channeling. The media should be cleaned
with an acid based sand filter cleaner or a muriatic acid solution, after the
first couple of week’s operation to correct this problem. Another
situation where channeling can occur is with the use of biguanide. This
material can cause sand,
zeolite and D.E. filter media to
coagulate. It can not be backwashed from the filter and can result in
diminished efficiency. Some of the biguanide manufacturers suggest monthly
cleaning of the media, when used with this chemical. I hope that the
information proves helpful.
Sincerely. Alan
Schuster, 7/31/2004
►
Backwashing With Zeobrite?
I recently purchased a sand
filter. Instead of using sand, my dealer suggested Zeobrite. I was told to
backwash the filter whenever the pressure rose 10 pounds above the initial
pressure. I was told this would be about once a week. However, this is
what I observe: If the filter runs non-stop for several days, the pressure
gradually rises, say about 6 pounds. However, if I stop the pump after, say
5 days, to add chlorine, or maybe because we have a stretch of cold weather
and the pool doesn't need filtering 24 hours a day. When the pump
restarts, the filter pressure returns to its initial start-up pressure and
rises slowly again over a period of several days. The result is the
pressure never rises close to 10 pounds above its start-up pressure.
Should I backwash once a week whether or not the pressure has risen?
This is what the dealer says to do. I'm reluctant to backwash, if its not
necessary because a good backwashing drops the water level 0.5" to 1", so I
usually have to add water before or after backwashing.
Colin T., St. Louis, MO, 5/25/2007
The dealer was knowledgeable
enough to suggest
Zeobrite,
as it will provide better water quality. He seems unaware that Zeobrite
decreases the need to backwash, because of in-depth filtration.
Backwash when the pressure is too high or a few times a season. Once a week is
totally unnecessary for your pool. For complete product information go to:
www.zeotechcorp.com
I hope that this information will help clear things up.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
5/25/2007
► Scaling And
Cloudy Water?
My pool is located
in a very hard water area and I have some scaling and cloudiness issues. The
pool maintenance company has mentioned something called a magnetic conditioner.
What is this??
Roy N., Chandler, AZ, 6/2/2005
Magnetic water conditioners are strong permanent
magnets that are strapped on t he return
lines. It is reported that pool water passing through the return lines is
subjected to a magnetic field, causing micro-changes in some of the water
content. In
short, the magnets are said to cause some beneficial changes: reduction and
elimination of calcium scale, improvement in sanitizer efficiency and some
positive effects on the overall water chemistry, clarity and filtration. In
very hard water situations,
this type of product can make a substantial improve in the water quality.
No power is required and installation should be a simple. I hope that
I have been of assistance.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 6/2/2005
|
The easy way
to help manage scale problems! |
►
Lack Of Efficiency?
I emailed
you a few weeks back about cloudy pool water (despite
good water levels) and you told me to add DE to my sand filter and I must say
it worked like a charm. I now know I was backwashing too frequently, which no
one told me before. Recently, I had a HORRIBLE algae
attack (I’m guessing due to a vacation) which made my pool the
prettiest and brightest green I have ever seen! I have since shocked the
sh@t out of it and it is now finally a bright
cloudy blue. This actually looks good to me since it was so green for the
last 10 days! Now I know I have to just get rid of the cloudiness. It
seems to me that if I add DE to my sand filter it works
better, but what can I do to not have to go out at 3am and make sure
the pressure is not too high and the filter is not working at all? I fear
something is wrong with my sand filter because I used to backwash too much. I
live in Wisconsin so there is not much swim time left but I would like to get
my filtration system to the point where not only is it working the best but I
know what to do for next season. The pool is not even a year old and is
18 X 4. Thankful.
Julie,
9/10/2003
PS I have
been told to only use sodium based chlorines as opposed to calcium ones. Is
it fair to say that I can stick with that general rule?
Dead algae can
pass right through some sand filters. Adding an occasional dose of a blue
clarifier can help improve the ability of the pool filter to remove these fine
particles. Backwashing a sand filter doesn't damage the filter: it just
lowers the efficiency by opening up the spaces between the sand grains.
Adding DE helps to reduce the spaces and improves efficiency. Think of it
as clean dirt. Don't add so much DE that the pressure will rise towards
the upper end of the operating range. Another means of increasing the efficiency of a sand filter
would be to replace the sand with a
sand filter replacement media, such as zeolite.
Another effective means of improving the water quality is with a
robotic pool cleaner. It
acts as a second, moving filter, as it vacuums the underwater surfaces. And it
will save you lots of time! Sodium hypochlorite is popular in
many areas. The only reason not to use calcium hypochlorite would be
because your calcium hardness is already high enough or should not be increased
beyond its present level. Another effective means of improving the water
quality is with a robotic pool cleaner. It
acts as a second filter, as it vacuums the underwater surfaces. And it
will save you lots of time! I hope that I have been helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 9/10/2003
►
Little Pressure?
Hi, Alan! Love your website. I opened my pool and decided to
change the sand in my pool filter - something that I never tried before.
Anyway, it all went well but I have very little pressure. I tried
backwashing, etc. but nothing helps. I was thinking that perhaps one of
the lines got clogged with sand but then I read one of your responses and
perhaps I have one of those channels. You mentioned a blue clarifier but
I have no idea what this product is. Do you sell it? If it doesn't
correct the problem, do I start all over again? Thanks so much!
Barry N.,
6/17/2004
You may not have done anything
wrong. A freshly filled sand filter is not as efficient as a somewhat
dirty one. If you used a filter grade sand, it may just take a while for
the pressure to rise. Backwashing will achieve just the opposite
effect. In the
future, backwash only if the pressure is too high.
Try this. Add 1 pound of D.E. to the skimmer with the filter
operating. This will help increase the pressure: think of it as
clean dirt. The next time that you replace the sand, give some thought to
using
Zeobrite instead of the sand. This
sand filter replacement media will produce consistently better water
quality that ordinary filter sand. You didn't mention anything about cloudy
pool water. If the
water is clear, I would play it by ear. The blue clarifier, that I
referred to, is a popular type of product that is sold in virtually all pool
supply stores. This website does not sell chemicals and is not affiliated
with any chemical manufacturer. Enjoy the summer.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 6/17/2004
►
No Water Flow?
My problem is that the filter
is not pulling any water. What could be the problem? Thank You.
B. K., 11/27/2003
There could be
several reasons: clogged filter, clogged pump strainer, loss of prime,
broken pump impellor, clogged line or valve, closed valve or an air leak.
Check to see that the valve is in the correct position. Backwash the
filter to waste. Resume filtering. If the water is still not
flowing, shut off the filter and open the pump basket cover. Pour water
into the basket (clean it out first), in attempt to manually prime the pump.
If none of these things work, you will have to check the lines, impeller and
valves: the answer is there, it is a matter of elimination. If you
have a filter operating manual, check to see if it has a trouble-shooting guide.
It might help solve the problem. Good
luck and I hope that I have been helpful.
Sincerely. Alan
Schuster, 11/27/2003
►
Green Water Won't Clear Up?
Hi, Alan, your web questions and answers are very
helpful and informative. Thank you. I have a problem with my pool
water. About 2 weeks ago, my pool water started to get green, cloudy and
ugly. I realized I had slipped and ran out of chlorine. I figured,
no problem, I'll just shock with a couple pounds of chlorine granules,
and it will clear up as it had in the past. However, it is 2 weeks
later, the water is still bright green and I cannot see the bottom. I
have added at least 8 lbs of chlorine and tried something recommended by the
pool store - a chemical that binds to chlorine to clear up/kill algae better.
I have run the filter for 12 hours here, 24 hours there, etc. Here is
some other information. The pool water is about 4 years old without
being completely flushed and re-filled--and now it is too hot outside (I'm in
Arizona) to risk cracking the pool finish (I understand you should not empty
your pool if the temperature outside is above 80 degrees F). The pool is
about 18,000 gallons with a sand filter. In the past, a little shock and
an extra 12 hrs of filtering always cleared up the problem. Do I need to
change my sand? Is it possible to run out of sand in the filter?
I'm thinking it is a filter problem, and not a chemical problem - my chlorine
level is off the charts on my test kit (it goes up to 10ppm), I'm guessing it
is 30ppm or higher based on the quantities of chemicals I used. Do you
have any suggestions to help? Thank you.
John U., Arizona, 5/15/2003
You told me a lot, but still
not enough. If you're testing for
Free
Chlorine and the level is as high as you state, it is not likely that
the problem is still algae. Sand filters can be subject to such
problems. If the sand has not been replaced in a long time, it might be a
good place to start.
Sand filters can become channeled and that prevents proper filtering efficiency.
If you are going to replace the sand, you might consider using
Zeobrite
sand replacement filter media. This product is modestly priced,
weighs one-half as much as sand and provides much better filtering efficiency. This will
help increase the efficiency. If your filter pressure was low, it could be
an indication of channeling. Try adding an occasional dose of a quality "Blue
Clarifier." It will help coagulate the particles and help increase
filter efficiency. Thereafter, backwash only occasionally or when the
pressure is too high. Have you considered a
Robotic Pool Cleaner? With a built-in micro-filter, it can
remove dead algae and help prevent future growth by improving the water
circulation across the pool bottom. For information on this product visit:
www.smartpool.com The green color could be minerals such as copper or
iron - have the water tested for their presence. I hope that this advice
proves helpful.
Sincerely. Alan
Schuster, 5/15/2003
Wow - great advice! I can see the bottom of my pool
for the first time in 2 weeks after just 16 hours of using the DE and Blue as
you suggested. I had to backwash about 3 times during that period
because of all the green gunk that was being cleaned out of the pool. Still
a little cloudy, but I should have it licked today. Thanks again,
Alan.
John U., 5/17/2002
It's worked for a lot of
people. Enjoy the summer.
Alan, 5/18/2003
►
Pump
Motor Size?
How
do I know the hp of a motor, I need to replace, if the old one has no data on
it?
J. R.,
2/27/2004
The
pump size will be determined by the size of the pool, filter and pipes.
Bigger is not necessarily better. Depending upon the type of pump in
place, you might be able to use a smaller pump. I suggest that you visit a
local pool professional with the following information: pool size in
gallons, filter type and model number and the size of the pipes (measure the
diameter - they will be able to relate that to pipe size). I hope that I
have been of some assistance.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 2/27/2004
►
How Long To Run?
We have a 24' above ground pool. I replaced
the liner this past weekend, and so far, everything seems good. My question is
about the length of time daily that the filter should run. I have a 1 HP pump
with a 16" sand (100 lbs) filter. I've heard that the electrical costs are not
that much different to run it 24/7 - but the previous owners only ran it about
8 hrs a day. We have minimal leaves, bugs, etc that fall into the pool, but my
thinking is that it the surface of the water is constantly being skimmed and
cleaned, it will lead to less debris getting to the bottom (then having to
vacuum, etc). What is a good rule of thumb, and are the pumps designed to run
continuously? Thanks in advance.
Mark C., Kentucky, 5/31/2005
How long a pump should run does, in part, depend of the pump size, pipe size and
the type of use the pool receives. In essence, it is pool size and pumping
rate. A turnover rate of every 4-6 hours is reasonable. Pumps are
designed for long running periods, but that does make it necessary.
To run it
24/7, as compared to 8 hours daily, will cost you exactly 3 times as much. This
is not air conditioning! If the pump is running, so is the electric meter.
In your case, 8 hours daily should be quite adequate. The skimmers will
never get all the debris and some will inevitably reach the bottom. Better
in invest in a
Robotic Pool Cleaner, instead of
operating the pump continuously. It will act as a moving main drain and as
a second micro filter. hope that I have been helpful.
Sincerely. Alan
Schuster, 6/1/2005
►
Using A Timer?
Thanks for your great pool
service website... it is much appreciated. We have a home in Gulf
Breeze that is a rental and is/has been sitting empty for a couple months
now. Our electric bill seems a bit high, due to the fact that we have turned
off the hot water heater and adjusted the air conditioner up considerably.
We suspect that the drain on power is coming from the main pump for the pool
that runs continuously. The pool is gunite and is about 33 feet long
by 15 feet wide. We have pool maintenance about twice a month. Can we
put a timer on the pump that will allow it to run less time but still filter
the pool properly? Aloha and regards.
Robert B., 11/15/2006
The pump does not have to run 24/7. Timers are
routinely used to control time and duration of filter
cycles. I suggest that you try filtering for 8
hours a day. During peak seasonal use, you might have
to up it a bit. During periods of reduced use, you
might be able to scale back on the filter time. No
pools are alike, so some common sense needs to be
applied. How well you maintain the water chemistry and
the pool's surrounding can play a role. Pump size
can make a difference. You want the water to turn
over about twice a day. I hope that this
information has been helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
11/15/2006
►
How Big A Pump?
I need your honest, impartial
answer! I have a 20,000-gal, inground, gunite pool that is currently
running a sand filter (which I want to convert to Zeobrite), but my main problem
is with the MOTOR. It has a 1.0 hp motor and I have some people (current
and prior pool owners) tell me that that is NOT enough - that I need to run 2.0
hp to really circulate the water (the water is NOT moving well). Others -
including the pool store who COULD talk me into a bigger motor and make money -
tell me that 1.0 hp is sufficient. It's not a question of money. I can
handle it. But WHAT is the truth? HOW big of a motor do I need? Can
I compromise and get a 1.5? Thanks!
Dayle V., Orange Park, Fl,
5/9/2005
No simple
answer. Pump size is related to pool size, filter performance and pipe size.
Still 1 HP does seem on the small side. I suggest that you replace the sand
with
Zeobrite,
as you planned. If the water flow is not adequate to turn the pool over every
4-6 hours, you might consider something bigger.
Biggest is not always best.
I would move up to 1.5 HP. Have you ever considered a
Robotic
Pool Cleaner. It acts as a moving filter and is independent of the
pool pump? I hope that I have been helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 5/10/2005
►
Under No Pressure?
Hi
Alan, Pool type: inground.
Problem: In starting up the pool this year we
are unable to maintain pressure when
on "filter". The backwash, rinse and waste cycles work fine
but as soon as we switch to filter we lose pressure. Thanks.
Michael,
6/8/2003
It would have been helpful to
know the type of filter, but it sounds like a sand filter. That being the
case, it appears that the filter media has become channeled. That means
that the water has carved a tunnel through the sand and is, in effect, by
passing the filter media. The sand will have to be removed and replaced
with fresh filter grade sand or, even better,
Zeobrite
sand filter replacement media. Lose of pressure can occur if the pump is
sucking air in the filter position: check all the connections. Other
than this possibility there are only mechanical causes such as: a bad
valve or some plumbing problem. If you have an instruction manual, check
the trouble-shooting guide. I hope that I have been helpful.
Good luck.
Sincerely. Alan
Schuster, 6/9/2003
►
Cleaning The Filter Parts?
Is there a way I could give my
in ground pool filter an acid bath myself? Is it just matter of taking the
filter tubes and submersing them in let's say a muriatic acid solution. Do you
know the name of the type of acid used for this purpose, where I can buy it,
what the dilution rate is, how long it needs to be soaked, rinse with water
afterwards, etc? Thank you.
Vince G., 5/1/2004
The
disassembled plastic parts should be placed in a suitably sized plastic
container. Add water and about a quart of muriatic acid for each 5-gallons
of water. If you don't want to use muriatic acid, you can add two pounds
of pH reducer, instead. There are products formulated for this purpose
that contain other ingredients, to help with the cleaning. Soak at least a
few hours - overnight or until clean. Rinse off. Use rubber gloves
and eye protection. This is not for metal parts!!! I hope this
information proves helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 5/2/2004
►
Is It A Filter
Or Chemistry Problem?
Within the last few weeks we have been having
problems keeping our pool clean. The beginning of the season we had no problems.
The pool water remains milky-cloudy and there always seems to be sand on the bottom of
the pool. We have a sand filter and I have been vacuuming daily and backwashing
daily without results. The pool chemistry is within normal limits. The sand in
the filter has not been changed in two years. Is this a filter problem? I need
help! Thanks.
Lisa, Patterson, LA, 6/21/2003
The sand could be from the
filter or could be tracked into the pool on the bottom of swimmer's feet.
The pool filter pressure should help indicate if there is a filtration problem. If
the pressure starts off normal after backwashing and rises over a period of a
few weeks, that would be typical of most sand filters.
Sand filters should
not be backwashed daily: that will decrease the efficiency of the filter and
could result in cloudy water. Normally, a sand filter should be
backwashed whenever the pressure rises too high. Sand, from the
filter, should not be getting into the water. If that is truly the case,
it is indicative of a problem and, perhaps, you should seek advice on servicing.
It is not uncommon for sand to be in the filter for longer than 2 years.
The cloudy water can be due to inadequate chlorination or inadequate filtration.
You might consider trying one of the "Blue" Clarifiers; this
type of product helps to improve filtering efficiency by coagulating suspended
particles for easier removal. The next time your sand is replaced,
consider using
Zeobrite
sand filter replacement media.
It will produce much better results. I hope that I have been helpful.
Sincerely. Alan
Schuster, 6/22/2003
►
Sand Filter Problem?
Hi Alan, we have opened our above-ground pool this
year, and so far everything has been ok. BUT, my husband has tried to connect
the vacuum and it seems as though when the vacuum is connected, sand is being
blown through the water return. The
return seems ok, and the volume of water is strong so I don't think it is
dirty already. All the hoses seem ok, fittings ok with no leaks. The pressure
reads ok. Everything seems fine until we try to use the vacuum, and then we
see sand being returned. The pool is only one year old, and at the
closing last season we were advised by our pool company to empty the sand
filter and clean it; which is what we did. My husband did not experience any
problems when he connected everything, and we haven't noticed any problems in
the two weeks we have had the pool opened. We considered emptying the
filter and doing it over, just to make sure. Any suggestions?
Thanks.
The Wife, 5/9/2003
Unless I am missing
something, all you should have to do hook up the vacuum is to close off one
skimmer (if there are two) and connect the hose to the skimmer intake.
Sand should not be coming
into the pool just because the vacuum is being used. Something is not
right. Sand filters do not have to be emptied every year. In
addition, a sand filter should not be backwashed too frequently, as doing that will reduce the effectiveness.
I suspect that something was done correctly during the replacement of the sand.
You might as well do whatever is necessary to check that everything is in its
proper place and in working order. Speak to the dealer. He may have a
trouble-shooting guide and should be
familiar enough with that pool filter make and model to offer you the proper
remedy. Good luck with the problem.
Sincerely. Alan
Schuster, 5/9/2003
►
Passing On Through?
The bottom of our pool is covered with a white
substance that we cannot get rid of. When we vacuum, it clouds up and
re-enters the pool, making the water too cloudy to see through. The pool
& equipment are all brand new and the sand filter has already been replaced.
Now, I've been told it could be from the powdered shock treatment we used,
having something to do with the calcium and that flock should take care or it.
That didn't work either. The pool is a 24' X 52", above ground with
normal chemical readings.
R.D., Bloomfield, NY, 7/2/2003
This clearly
sounds like a situation where the filter is not operating properly. The
sediment on the bottom, could indeed, have come from the shock treatment.
The fact that it is not being removed by filtration and returns to the pool, is
very suggestive of channeling in the sand filter. Freshly filled
sand filters, new or old, can become channeled. This means that the water
has formed a channel through the sand and, by doing so, has eliminated much of
the filtration. The water is only being recirculated. The pressure
levels are usually low, if the sand is channeled. The filter should be
inspected to make sure that the sand is in the proper quantity and type. Is it
pool filter grade? If you choose to replace the sand, consider
using
Zeobrite sand filter replacement media
instead. This type
of filtration media can produce better results than ordinary filter sand and is used
in exactly the same way. I hope that the
information proves helpful.
Sincerely. Alan
Schuster, 7/2/2003
►
Filtration
Boredom?
I am a new pool owner and want
first of all to thank you for your very helpful web page! I have a 29K
gal. pool/spa with a 48 sq. ft. DE filter. The pool has been opened about
three weeks. I have been testing my water and maintaining a good balance.
The water appears clean and clear. The initial start up pressure on the
gauge was 13. The pool company told me that I should backwash at 23.
Is it normal that the gauge has not gone over 15 since we began operating the
pool? Am I just "bored" and looking for something to do or
should I backwash after a certain period of time, regardless of the pressure
gauge? Thank you.
Ken D., Freehold, NJ,
6/30/2004
You must be doing an
exceptional job maintaining the proper chemistry and that, in turn, is
preventing the growth of algae. Algae growth is the usual cause for the
pressure to increase. The fact that the pressure has not increased very
much, over the past few weeks, is due to the fact that there has apparently been
very little material for the filter to remove. If you read through the
archives, you will notice that pools requiring pool filter backwashing, usually have algae
or clarity problems. Don't backwash unless necessary. A mid-season
backwash might be reasonable, if not done for any other reason. Keep up
the good work. Golf, tennis, fishing or swimming are good hobbies.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 6/30/2004
►
How Long To Filter?
We have been told many
different options on how often to be running our filter for our 21,000 gal
inground pool. In order to save energy costs everyone seems to have their own
little quirk about how often or when to run their filter. Some say every other
day, for two days straight after a busy weekend, nighttime only, etc. What is
your best recommendation?
Julia H., 4/30/2005
Start with 8
hours a day. When the pool is not being used, perhaps, you might get away with
6 hours. During peak use, you might need more. How well you maintain the
water, how much bather usage, how powerful the pump, exposure to wind-blown
debris and other factors all contribute. Depending upon the sanitizing method,
you might need to have the filter operating for more or less time.
Having a
Robotic
Pool Cleaner can reduce the time, as it acts as
a second filter and as a moving main drain. If you can, operate the filter
while the pool is being used. Have fun and I hope that I have been
helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 4/30/2005
►
How Long & When?
I live in
South Florida and have a new pool of three months. I’ve been told that a pump
should run at least 8-12 hours a day. I have a timer and a pool pilot salt
chlorine generator. My question
is should I run the pump continuously for that amount of time or break it up
throughout the day? I know the most important time is during the hottest part of
the day. I was also told that by running the pump for several hours at night
might reduce algae buildup, which I’ve noticed has popped up around the tile.
Thanks.
Robert,
Florida, 5/9/2005
This is
a gray area. Running the filter for 8-12 hours should be enough. Times will
vary based on pump size, pipe size, filter performance, bather load, location,
etc. It is always a good idea to operate the filter during periods of use, as
this helps remove silt that might otherwise settle to the bottom. Breaking up
the filter run into 2 separate periods is a good idea. If your pool is being
maintained with a chlorine feeder, chlorination only occurs while the filter is
operating. By splitting the time, the pool is not more than 6 hours away from a
chlorine addition. In your case, the algae is developing because you
are probably failing to maintain a sanitizer level adequate to carry the load
throughout the day. You need to focus on the free chlorine level and keep it at
1-3 PPM, for as much of the time as possible. Using
the right tester can help. The
LaMotte Insta-Test strips
provide the right information with reliability and convenience. Check the
pH and stabilizer level to assure optimum chlorine performance. Your
Pool
Pilot
salt chlorine generator
can maintain proper free chlorine levels much better than a chlorine feeder or
manual additions of chlorine products. Keeping your filter cartridge
clean will improve water flow and circulation. In turn, this makes algae
growth less likely and improves the water quality. Usually cartridge
filters are cleaned weekly, especially in the peak of the season.
You can use
THE BLASTER automatic filter cartridge cleaner
and save yourself the weekly chore. It requires no installation and
is worth
looking into. I hope that I provided some help with your question.
Sincerely. Alan
Schuster, 5/10/2005
►
D.E. In The Pool?
I have a gunite pool with a D.E.
filter. There was a tear in one of the filter grids and about 10 pounds of
D.E. found its way into the pool before I realized it. Will the D.E. be
removed from the pool under normal operation after fixing the grid?
Richard R., 6/10/2003
Your filter should be able to
remove the D.E. The problem will be to get all of the D.E. into the main
drain or the skimmers. Adding a dose of a "Blue" Clarifier might
be a consideration. If you have an
automatic pool vacuum, it might be a
good time to make use of it. If it is a suction-side cleaner, at least it
will get the D.E. off the bottom and into the filter intake. I hope that
I've been helpful. Enjoy the pool season.
Sincerely. Alan
Schuster, 6/10/2003
►
Staying Cloudy And Green?
Thank you for the great web site. We just
bought a house and it has a 27' diameter X 52" high pool. The
water has never been quite right. The water is green. The algae level
seems to rise and fall. We shock, a lot. We figured out that we need
stabilizer and calcium so that the chlorine level seems to have started to
level out. Now we have a huge algae problem. I know the pool is
3-5 years old. I also know the sand in the filter has never been
replaced. I am told that this may be a part of the problem. How
hard is it to change the sand and is there a guide we should use? I am
getting frustrated with the situation as I have been working at it for 3 weeks
now and have yet to see non-green water. We backwash, we run the filter
all the time, we vacuum and skim. We have a chlorine floater, as well
as, all the shocking we do. Any help you could offer would be
appreciated. Thanks.
Jeanette W., 6/5/2003
The problem all centers around
the lack of an adequate level of free chlorine. Adding the stabilizer
and calcium probably did little to help control the algae. You must keep
adding shock at the rate of 1-2 pounds per 10,000 gallons, until a
Free
Chlorine readings is established and last thru the night. The
longer it takes - the more chlorine will be required. At this point the
water should clear. Add a dose of a "Blue" Clarifier should
help. It might be a good time to replace the sand and start with a clean
page. Visit a local pool professional with the make and model number.
They will have replacement sand or, even better,
Zeobrite
sand replacement filter media and should be able to tell you how to go about
making the change.
Contrary
to common sense, a sand filter should not be backwashed too frequently.
A slightly dirty filter works best! The key is the chlorine: add
it every few hours, keep the pool filter running and make sure that you are testing
for Free Chlorine.
It will all clear up for you. I hope that I have been helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 6/5/2003
►
Diatomaceous Earth
Filter And Floc?
Alan, is there any problem using floc with DE
filters? I thought that I heard not to do this somewhere.
Thanks.
Frank K.
I've never been a big fan of
floc. However, it does work. It clears up water by creating a gelatinous
precipitate that, as it falls to the bottom, attracts suspended matter and takes
it to the bottom. The end result is that you have a bigger amount of sediment to
remove, by vacuuming. The problem with DE
pool filters is that if you get too much of
the gelatinous sediment into the filter, it can clog the filter. Inasmuch as it
is impossible to vacuum all of the gelatinous material to waste, without leaving
a small quantity behind, you may end up with a clogged filtration system. DE
pool filters are
very efficient and are usually able to deal with suspended matter, in the course
of normal operation. If you would like to use an additive to help the water
quality, I suggest that you try one of the "Blue" Clarifiers. These
products are highly effective at removing fine particles. Follow the label
dosages. Do not add more, as it should not be necessary. I hope that I have
been of assistance.
Sincerely. Alan
Schuster
►
Which Filter To
Choose?
I am in the process of replacing a tired old sand
filter. My pool is approx. 20000 gallons and I see a lot of ads for
cartridge filters. How do they compare to sand filters for effectiveness, etc?
They don't seem to be as popular in Canada as down south. Thanks for any
info that you may have.
Ed L., Osoyoos, B.C. Canada,
4/2/2005
I am not an expert on
pool filters. However, based upon the questions that have been submitted to me,
over many years, I would conclude that you are more apt to be satisfied with the
water quality, if you elect to utilize a quality cartridge filter or a modern
sand filter, using
Zeobrite
sand filter replacement media in place of sand. Zeobrite
is modestly priced, longer lasting and can produce results rivaling a D.E.
filter. Speak with
some of the local builders. Good luck with your decision.
Sincerely. Alan
Schuster, 4/2/2005
►
Sudden Filter Problem?
We have an in-ground, 30 mil, vinyl pool with
17,400 gallons. This summer we had a sudden onset of yellow-green silt
looking stuff that goes right thru the filter. It is an older style, (20
years) 102 square foot, paper cartridge in a stainless steel bullet looking
thing. Up until now it has worked fine. When the problem came on we
suspected the cartridge so we replaced it. No help. The filter
base had a small internal crack so we replaced it too. No help.
I even fell for the "worn out filter pump" story and replaced the old
3/4 horse with a new 1 HP pump. It moves a lot of water but it didn't cure
the problem. Actually, the old motor and pump were making some
noise. Earlier in the summer the pool cleaner booster pump went bad
and we just plugged it off to continue using the filter pump. I don't know
if there is a connection or not. We have used a variety of
clarifiers to no avail. Last summer I put some D.E. in it and it worked
fine, but now everything just goes thru the filter as if it wasn't there at all.
We are at the end of our rope. All I get from the locals is to replace the
entire filter with a newer, high dollar system. Is that what I'm
facing? I find it hard to believe that this is an isolated problem.
We have also totally replaced water twice after other attempts turned sour.
We have quizzed neighbors with similar pools and they have no problems.
What's up?
Rick P., Bakersfield, CA,
8/14/2003
From your description it
sounds like you have "Yellow Mustard Algae." While it is
possible that you might have had a filter problem, pool water filtration alone will not
remove yellow mustard algae.
Changing the water will not
solve the problem. To control this type of algae, proper chemical
treatment is required. Please refer to the archives, on this topic, for
more complete information on treatment. Good luck!
Sincerely. Alan
Schuster, 8/14/2003
►
Filter On Or Off?
The filter must be on while adding chemicals to
the pool? Is this correct? I was doing the opposite.
Luis S., 6/2/2005
The filter should always be
operating while adding chemicals, unless specifically directed otherwise.
Generally,
you do not want chemicals to remain on the bottom for prolonged periods.
Always follow the manufacturer's directions and never mix different chemicals
together!
Sincerely. Alan
Schuster, 6/3/2005
►
Too Much For The
Strainer Basket?
A Southern Magnolia tree which is flowering this time of
year (May-June) overhangs the pool. If the leaves weren't bad enough, tiny
flower parts (stamens, I believe) fall into the pool by the thousands, get past
the strainer basket, and clog the impeller. I've had someone come out and clean
the impeller twice now (very expensive) but it clogs up again within days.
Should I try to get a basket with finer holes? Wrap the strainer basket in a
nylon stocking? Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
Brian D., 6/2/2004
Good idea!!! Although, it has already been invented.
Local pool dealers should have something that can be fitted into your skimmers,
to act just as you described. They are sock-like, cover the strainer
baskets and act as a pre-filter. If only they were all this simple!
Enjoy the season.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
6/2/2004
► D.E. Filter Or Sand/Zeobrite
Filter?
What is
the best filter type for a plaster finish gunite pool and attached spa with
salt water chlorination system? Does a sand filter with Zeobrite
really filter as well as DE with less maintenance? Thank you.
Candice S., 10/31/2006
A sand filter filled with
Zeobrite,
in place of ordinary sand, will provide filter efficiency similar to
that of a DE filter. Having a
salt chlorine generator
will even make it easier, as it will not be necessary to ever regenerate
the Zeobrite. You'll get the water
quality you want, with the ease and convenience of a sand filter.
I hope that I have been helpful.
Sincerely. Alan
Schuster, 11/1/2006
►
A Cartridge Filter Or
A D.E. Filter?
I'd like your opinion on Cartridge Filters.
I had my above ground pool for 7 years and it came with a D.E. filter. I
never had a problem with it. Last year, we had a built in pool installed
and I was torn between getting a D.E. or Cartridge filter. I decided to
get the cartridge filter because it's easier to maintain (according to the sales
rep). I noticed a few things with this filter. It does not keep the
water as clear as the D.E. filter. Why? Is it because it's not able
to filter out the small particles like the D.E.? Is there anything that I
can do to keep the water clearer? Are these cartridge filters OK?
Charlie W., Hemet, CA,
7/23/2004
Bull's Eye!!! You hit it
right on the head!
DE Filters can remove smaller particles than
cartridge filters. For people who neglect their pool maintenance, a DE
filter can be a chore. For those who take care of the pool, a DE filter
provides better water quality. Try adding one of those "Blue
Clarifiers" on a weekly basis. These products will help coagulate
organic debris and dead algae, improve the filter efficiency and help polish the
pool water. It might just become your next best friend. I hope that I
have been helpful. Enjoy the summer. I'm sure that you will come to
terms with your new filter.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
7/23/2004
►
No Prime?
I just opened my pool. I blew
out the lines, plugged them as I normally do. This is my second inground pool
and 15 closing/opening. My current pool only two years old is giving me a
problem. I can not get a prime. I can not locate any air leaks. The pool
store said since I closed the pool myself, I probably did it wrong and the lines
underground are cracked. After 15 years of doing this I have a hard time
believing I have both a skimmer line and main line crack. I am going to pool
the pump and check the impeller, seals, etc. Is there anyway to check the
lines, pressurize them etc? I use a compressor to blow out the lines out.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Phillip M., 4/28/2005
I agree that
it would be highly unlikely for two separate lines to crack at the same time.
Most likely the problem is in a seal or gasket. If disassembly and repair
does not solve the problem, you might have to resort to having the lines
pressure tested. Some pool service techs have the necessary equipment and
expertise. If there is a leak, I
would suggest that you give
Fix A Leak a try, before tearing up
the concrete or decking. You might even try it before the pressure
testing. This products works well to seal suction side leaks up to 1/8" in
diameter. Good luck
and I hope that I have been of help.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 4/29/2005
►
Trying To Decide On
Filter Type?
We are trying to figure out
what type of filter to use. We are leaning toward the DE for the water clarity
but the installer told us that he has replaced them because people found them
too high maintenance. He is recommending either a sand filter or cartridge
filter, but will install whatever we want. The installer also informed us that
DE can only be used with chlorine because biguanide will cause it to clog. Is
this true? Also, what are the required maintenances for the DE, sand and
cartridge filters? Thank you for your assistance.
Laura M., Central PA,
7/13/2004
DE
should give you the highest water quality, but is can be difficult for those
that do no take care of the pool water chemistry and sanitation. Biguanide
will interfere with DE filters. A sand filter, with
Zeobrite sand
filter Replacement media in place of ordinary
sand, can provide water quality rivaling DE, with simple maintenance.
Cartridge filters have simple maintenance and reasonable water quality. If
your set on biguanide, go with sand/Zeobrite or cartridge. If you are
trying to be chlorine free, there is a better way. The combination of an
ozonator and a mineral purifier or ionizer
is 100% chlorine free, highly automated and can be used with all types of
filters. Good luck with your choice.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 7/13/2004
►
Adding Some D.E. To
A Sand Filter?
I was wanting to know about putting a small amount of DE in a sand filter.
Frank G., 2/23/2004
You could add a small amount to the
skimmer as the sand filter is operating. Providing that there is no channeling,
this could help improve the filter efficiency. However, there is another and
better option. Instead of using ordinary filter grade sand, you could use
Zeobrite: a
natural mineral that can be used as a sand filter media replacement and will make a noticeable improvement in
the water clarity and quality. It is very reasonably priced and the amount that
will be required will only one-half as much by weight. It will last longer than
ordinary sand and can be used with all types of pool chemicals. I hope
that the information will prove helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
2/23/2004
►
No Water In Pump Basket?
Your website is extremely informative. Recently
bought a house with an outdoor inground concrete pool. A few days ago I
found that although the pool pump was turned on, no water could be seen in
the filter window and also the needle in the pressure gauge does not move. I
checked the basket near the pump for leaves etc but there were no debris.
What do you think is the problem? Thank you.
Elizabeth, Birmingham, U.K., 1/23/2007 There is no
water flow and that is why the gauge is reading zero. The pump
has lost its prime. The question is why? Check all the
seals. Shut off the pump. Clean out the strainer baskets.
Make sure the valve to the skimmer(s) and main drain, if present, are open.
Use a garden hose and fill the pump basket with water. Do it for
a minute or until it remains filled. Quickly close the lid to the pump
strainer and turn it on. Hopefully, the pump will re-prime and the
water will start circulating. If this does not work, you may have a
blockage. Remove the lines going in the pump and use a shop vacuum to
blow them out. If bubbling occurs the line(s) are clear. I hope
that this information proves helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
1/23/2007
I carried out your instructions and while
re-circulating the water I discovered a leak under the pump. An engineer
came out and found a crack in one of plastic pipes near the ball valve
next to the pump. It's sorted. Thank you so much for the
invaluable advice. I discovered your website last year whilst
trying to learn more about pool maintenance etc. It's good to read about
other people's experiences with their pools. Thanks and Have A
Nice Day!
Elizabeth, Birmingham United Kingdom, 1/24/2007
►
Concerns About DE?
We are getting an in ground pool this summer and considering A DE filter
over sand as cost is about the same and better efficient, but our pool sales
guy says he heard that when the DE is backwashed it can be toxic to pets and
will kill the grass. Doesn't seem true, is it? Could you suggest
any pro's and cons of the DE filters? Thanks.
Dave, Chandler,
Arizona, 3/25/2004
There is no question that a DE
filter can produce better quality water than a sand filter. There are some
health questions, regarding DE, that may be exaggerated. While it can be
harmful, over a long period, to inhale DE particles (manufacturers and
packagers), I don't believe there is significant risk when used, as directed, in
a swimming pool. I have heard nothing about toxicity towards pets, but DE
is suggested as being useful in insect control. DE filters are more
efficient and capable of removing smaller particles. On the down side,
they are more prone to clogging, especially if algae problems are frequent.
There is another alternative that you may be unaware of. You can use
Zeobrite,
a sand replacement filter media,
in place of ordinary filter sand. The result is that the filter efficiency
is greatly enhanced and comes close to that of DE. Otherwise the filter is
operated in exactly the same way as a sand filter. Good luck with your
choice. Enjoy the pool!
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
3/25/2004
►
Need To Replace The
D.E.?
Just had the pool resurfaced.
A lot of muriatic acid was used to take off white powder on the pool walls.
My question is after backwashing, do I have to refill the filter with D.E.?
Jerry, Homosassa, FL,
5/12/2005
If
you have the type of filter that allows for backwashing, you must replace the
DE, after every backwash. I hope that I have been helpful.
Sincerely, Alan Schuster,
5/13/2005
►
Sand In The Pool?
I have an in-ground pool that
is approximately 15 years old. I have noticed these past 2 years that, after rinsing the filter, sand returns into the bottom of the pool. While
draining the pool, for the winter, I placed the controls back into the filter
position and, after a short while, there were piles of sand on the bottom near
all 3 return lines. What is causing this? Is it because the filter
is too low on sand or is some thing broken?
Richard R.,
Granite Falls, MN, 6/17/2003
Something is
definitely wrong with the filter. Sand should not be getting into the
pool, as you are describing. Exactly, what is wrong is beyond the scope of
my knowledge. I'm sure that a local dealer, that sells or services
pool filters will be able to help you to trouble-shoot the problem. Good luck.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
6/17/2003
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