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"Metals,
Mineral & Stain Problems"
Spa Problems
with Discoloration and Staining.
The Pool & Spa Informational Website
askalanaquestion.com |
Dealing with Staining & Discoloration Issues.
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Scroll down to browse
through some archived SPA & HOT TUB questions and answers.
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Mineral content in
spa or hot tub water can lead to a variety of problems: staining of the underwater
surfaces, discoloration of the water and corrosion. Control of trace
minerals and maintaining a proper overall spa or hit tub water chemistry is
important, to help assure optimum water quality. Minerals such as iron, manganese
and copper are the principal offenders. Iron and manganese can occur naturally in
water, especially well water. It is the oxidation of dissolved heavy
metals that can cause the spa staining and water discoloration problems, upon
the addition of oxidizing spa chemicals. Copper is rarely found in municipal water supplies and
usually finds its way into spas and hot tubs as the result of corrosion of the copper
heater core or copper plumbing. Treatment of the resultant problem is usually
possible with the proper techniques and chemicals. Heavy metal staining
and discoloration can be removed, treated and prevented, with the use of
METALTRAP Products, such as Liquid METALTRAP, METALTRAP Filters, PURESTART
Pre-Filter and POOL REFRESH.
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products to treat potentially poor quality water and to
remove and prevent stains and discoloration, due to iron, copper,
manganese, organic contamination & more!
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►
Use Of Softened Water In A Spa?
I just purchased a spa and, following the directions, filled it
after bypassing my water softener. My well water contains a fairly high degree of iron and
manganese. The result was a spa full of "rust" that the filter was able to
remove. However, a rust ring builds up daily on the water line. I spoke with the dealer,
he advised that I can fill the spa with soft water. So I drained and refilled the spa with
soft water. The ring has been eliminated and, except for a slightly cloudy appearance, the
spa is great. Why does the manufacturer recommend NOT using soft water? I want to make
sure that I'm not doing any long term damage.
Thanks for your advice.
Dave V., Rehoboth, MA,
2/16/2004
If your household water is of such poor
quality as to require a water softener, it should not be used in your spa.
The reason being that certain dissolved minerals might
be present and might
cause discoloration and staining problems. While it may be possible to
treat the dissolved minerals with a quality Mineral Treatment Product, I firmly
believe that it is easier and less expensive to use softened water - if you have
that option! Your experience confirms this! You can
easily add chemicals to adjust the pH, hardness and total alkalinity of the softened water
and, by doing so, avoid any possible corrosion problems. The balancing of
the pH, hardness and total alkalinity, of the softened water, should completely eliminate
any objections by the spa manufacturer. The dealer gave you the right advice!
Why don't spa manufacturers include such advice? You would have to ask
them, but I suspect that because so few people, nationwide, use softened water, they chose
not to complicate spa ownership by necessitating softened water in certain areas.
It's just not always required. There is an alternative that is
widely used to solve this type of problem, where there is no water softener or
pond or river water us used to fill the spa. The
METALTRAP Filter
will permanently remove the heavy metals that might otherwise cause staining and
discoloration. The
PURESTART Pre-Filter can
remove organic products, that could cause odor and staining. I hope that I have been helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 2/16/2004
►
Using The Right Pre-Filter?
I bought a Micron Prefilter from Micropure (carbon).
The vendor told me it was good for about 3 refill of my spa (450 gallons). I
used it once and it doesn't work anymore (water don't go through anymore), but
my water has never been so clear! I think I have a lot of copper in my
water because it was always green when I filled it before using that pre-filter.
I'm thinking buying the "Pure Start 1-Micron Pre-Filter, for Spas & Small
Pools". Do you think it will be usable for a couple of refills? I know it says
10 000 gallons, but I want your opinion on it.
Isabelle E., Canada, 10/27/2009
The
PURESTART 1-Micron Pre-Filter
will remove ultra-fine particles and
many microorganisms. It is particularly useful where the source water is
of poor quality. It should be able to be used to refill your spa up to 20
times, depending of the nature of the source water.
However, your description of the water color and the
mentioning of a copper possibility, leads me to question, whether a
METALTRAP Filter
would not be a better choice. The PURESTART 1-Micron Pre-Filter will
remove the metals that have precipitated, but not those in solution. The
"green" color could be copper or iron or both. The METALTRAP Filter will
all the metals, precipitated or dissolved, and will save you from having to deal
with discolored water and stained surfaces. The METALTRAP MT-10 should be
able to be used up to 20 times to refill the spa.
You can always test the water, before and after, to confirm the
Filter is
still effective. The best way to deal with metals is to physically remove
them from the water and not with chemical treatment. I hope that this
information will problem helpful.
Sincerely. Alan
Schuster, 10/27/2009
►
Use Of Well Water In A Spa?
We have a vacation home and plan on adding a spa. We
use well water, which does contain some iron. For many household uses, we
used bottled water. I have been told that this can cause problems.
What would use suggest?
Phyllis T., Boone, NC, 9/10/2009
Iron can be treated and it a real
advantage that you are able top plan ahead. The
METALTRAP Filter will remove iron and
other heavy metals, as you fill the spa. It simples attaches to a garden
hose and can treat up to 10,000 gallons of water. That means you will be
able to treat all water added to top off the level and refill the spa, many time
over. If not treated, the iron will cause staining and/or make the
water good unappealing. This cartridge-like device traps the iron inside
and that is as good as it gets. A much better way than any chemical
treatments. hope that this information will prove helpful and that
it helps make the Hot Water Experience more enjoyable.
Sincerely. Alan
Schuster, 9/10/2009
► Hard Water, Iron & Softened Water?
I live in an area with hard water
and iron. The iron is so bad that it stains everything but it is effectively
removed by the water softener. I have been advised not to used softened water
in my spa due to the difficulties in balancing. I drain the spa for the summer
but am considering refilling it from the pool as the sand filter effectively
removes the iron color. I use chlorine in the pool and bromine with ozone in
the spa. Do you see a problem here? Thanks, great web site.
Frank, Nova Scotia, Canada,
9/10/2005
The dealer is thoroughly wrong!
It is not difficult to balance the spa water, if you use a water softener.
It is certainly not easier to deal with the iron and hardness! By all
means use the water softener and add a calcium hardness booster to raise the
level to about 200 PPM. Softeners do not always remove metals.
The
METALTRAP filter can be used, with a
small submersible pump and a garden hose to recirculate the water, through this
cartridge-life filter. It will permanently remove the heavy metals, as the
water passes through. Adjust the pH and total alkalinity, as
necessary, and you're good to go. Using the pool water is a reasonable
alternative. I hope that I have been helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
9/10/2005
►
Is It Black Algae?
I have read all the problems submitted by others. Our
discoloration is mostly dark green with many, mottled black spots. The green
looks like oxidized copper. Is it still considered "black algae"? If
so, what do you recommend?
Alan S., 6/16/2004
It is extremely unlikely that the
problem is black algae! It could very well be a copper stain that
resulted from corrosion of the copper heater core. Ask your self the
following questions? Is chlorine or bromine being used? Has the pH
been below 7.0, for extended periods of time? Are you placing chlorine or
bromine in the skimmer? I suggest that you have the water tested for
copper. If present, that will conform the corrosion. You will have
to drain and clean the spa. An oxalic or ascorbic acid solution can help
remove the stains. DO NOT USE OXALIC ACID OR ASCORBIC ACID BY MIXING WITH
CHLORINE OR BROMINE. If corrosion was the cause, you need to pay more
attention to the pH and total alkalinity of the spa water. I hope that I
have been of assistance.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
6/10/2004
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►
Discolored Water?
I have a 275 gallon spa and recently I emptied,
cleaned and refilled the spa. I added the chemicals (bromine) in the usual way and
the spa water started to turn brown in color. I brought a sample into a local dealer and he said
that it was iron. It never happened before. Can you explain this?
M. L.,
12/17/2004
Where did the
iron come from? That's the
real question. If iron is not normally present in your household water on a regular
basis, it might have ended up in your spa water because a fire hydrant was opened
somewhere, up line, in the neighborhood. That caused sediments to be lifted off the
bottom of the pipes and the rest you know. It is also possible that your water does
contain an occasional trace of iron, depending upon the conditions at the water source,
rainfall amounts, etc. Knowing the amount of iron present is helpful.
Make sure that you add a quality metal treatment, in sufficient quantity, for
the amount of iron present. Add another dose monthly and prior to the
addition of makeup water. The hope that this information cleared
things up for you.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 12/7/2004
► Only The Spa Is
Stained?
I recently purchased an iron test kit from your site, so
I'd appreciate a bit more help. Enclosed is a picture of spa water which
occurred when the spa person washed the spa filter in muriatic acid and then
thoroughly rinsed it. There have been red rust stains on the spa.
Cistern water tests "no iron" but water you see in the spa tests 0.3 iron.
The spa uses bromine. The pool which uses salt chlorination and shows no
rust stains. I've just replaced the spa gas heat exchanger (now cupronickel)
and there's no other source of rust. The whole house water filter DOES,
however, fill with a reddish material on the 1 micron filter we use to
filter it out. We believe that the dirt on the hillside in the Virgin
Islands (red) has a lot of iron in it. Please answer this: Why does
the spa show iron stains and not the pool? Does the bromine precipitate any
iron that is in the water? Does salt generated chlorine
not precipitate iron so the
pool does NOT get stains? Do you think we need a specific iron filter?
Thanks.
Norm, Virgin Islands, 4/30/2007
Red colored soil usually is high in
iron. There is a possibility that copper is interring with the iron
test and is showing up as iron. What I see in the spa are not iron
stains. Copper stains from corrosion of the heater core are more likely.
The action of chlorine or bromine, upon iron or copper is virtually the
same. Iron stains are yellow to rust colored. Copper stains are blue-green
to black. You replaced the heater coil, why? The pool operates with a
salt
chlorine generator. Low pH is rare,
because the SCG drives up the pH. Bromine or chlorine will not attack
copper unless the pH is acidic. Most likely the pool's pH is always around
7.8 or higher. The spa is using bromine and bromine tablets are acidic. If
the pH drops below 7.0, corrosion and staining could result. The photo
seems to show that. If you used bromine tablets and did not add pH
Increaser on a regular basis, your pH was too low. I think you
need to do the following. Add several doses of a metal treatment to the
pool and spa. Add another monthly. Use a metal removing
prefilter,
while adding any new water to the pool or spa, to help remove
particulated iron. For cleaning of the spa stains try using a solution of
ascorbic acid (vitamin C) Refer to the pool page on staining problems
for more on this topic. I hope that this information is helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 4/30/2007
► Well Water
Containing Sulfur?
I observed floating particles in our hot tub. The flakes are
yellow in color, have the texture of dead skin and can be up to half an inch in
size in some cases. We use water direct from our well which contains 5 ppm of
sulphur. When I asked our local dealer about the problem, he stated that this is
due to the sulphur attacking the lining of the rubber hose plumbing. The sulphur
eventually lifts off flakes of the hose which take on the color of the sulphur.
He said that the remedy for this is to use a stain control product which keeps
the sulphur particles suspended (sequestered) in the water thus keeping the
sulphur from etching the rubber lining. He said that this can begin to occur
after about sixteen months of use which makes sense in our case. I have begun
the use of the stain control and will continue to observe for improvements.
Have you ever seen this condition or heard of this remedy?
Dennis, Canada, 1/12/2007
You can't sequester sulfur
compounds. But there is a solution. The
PURESTART Pre-Filter
will remove lots of the minerals that cause odors and discoloration.
Use it every time you fill the spa and you'll save yourself a lot of
problems.
If this is the only source of
water, I would bring in a sample of fresh water and have it tested for
pH, TA and calcium hardness. I would allow the chlorine level to reach
zero, add a 1/4 pound of ascorbic acid (METALTRAP
Stain Remover) and let the water
recirculate for at least 12 hours. Drain and clean the spa. Use a
metal removing PreFiller
to treat the new water, as the spa is being refilled. Always prefilter new
water. Adding a monthly dose of calcium treatment is a good idea, if
the hardness level is over 200 PPM. I hope that this information will
prove helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 1/13/2007
► Well Water Causing Discoloration?
Awesome site and thanks for the help up
front. I have had a spa at my
cabin since last September. The water was cloudy and needed to be
changed because it was a couple of months old and had an odor. I
drained the tub completely via the drain port and wiped down the
interior. I refilled the tub with water, which holds about 450
gallons, from my well. The water was tested when we bought the cabin
and has very little iron in it. However, I do think we have sulfates
dissolved in the water because we do have a tinge of sulfur smell.
I have suspended solids in the water and need to get a micro-filter to
capture the solids that settle out on the bottom of the tub, but that is
another story. I added 16 oz of metal treatment. I added shock
treatment, installed a new bromine cartridge and some type of water
polisher that is supposed to help clear the water. Note suspended
solids above.
The tub ran for 20 to 30 minutes
and then I tested the water. The water hardness was low as were the pH
and alkalinity. Added 10 to 12 oz. of calcium based on the calculation
that 1 oz will add about 10 ppm to the water. I also adjusted the pH
and alkalinity using a spa-up product. I got the pH in range, the
alkalinity was high but I've learned that pH is the important number.
Bromine seemed good at about 2 ppm. I have an ozonator and a mineral
cartridge in the system, which I did not change. I put the cover
down and came back in a half hour. Lifted the cover and the water was
clear but a yellowish-green color. I've been reading your site ever
since. I read a question that talked about copper in the water turning
someone's hair and nails green. I didn't jump in to see if the same
would happen to me. Any thoughts? This didn't happen when the tub
was filled the first or second time, but the third time was not the
charm. Thanks.
Dan K.,
St. Paul, MN.
3/20/2007
Spas
that turn color after chlorine has been added usually have a
metals problem, leading to staining and/or discoloration.
This can be very common with well water. ASAP
add at least a double dose of a
quality metal treatment.
This might help avoid staining and should make an
improvement. Bring in a water sample to a local dealer and
have the water tested for iron, copper and other
parameters. I suggest adding a dose of metal treatment for
each 0.5 PPM of metals. Add another dose prior to adding
new water. A monthly dose is an additional safeguard
against a recurring problem. A metal and mineral
removing prefilter
could make a big difference, when used to treat all new
water. Only a
Spa Frog
mineral sanitizer can be used with bromine. In addition, it
is unlikely to be affected by the metal treatment.
In the future, you should consider using a
METALTRAP
Filter to remove the metals, as the sap is
being filled. A single METAL TRAP will last loner
enough to fill the spa, more than a dozen times. I hope that I have been helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster.
3/20/2007
►
Turned Brown?
W e
were changing the water and we added the
calcium hardness treatment. Then we add
the bromine and it turns brown. We have
changed the water regularly and this has
never happened before. What is wrong?
Linda
M., 4/15/2007
This sounds like a spa, but
you didn't make that clear.
Either way, everything
applies. Pools/spas
that turn color after
bromine has been added
usually have a metals
problem. This can be very
common with well water.
ASAP add at least a double
dose of a
quality metal
treatment. This might help
avoid staining and should
make an improvement. Bring
in a water sample to a local
dealer and have the water
tested for iron, copper and
other parameters. I suggest
adding a dose of metal
treatment for each 0.5 PPM
of metals. Add another dose
prior to adding new water.
A monthly dose is an
additional safeguard against
a recurring problem.
To help avoid such problems,
I suggest using a metal
removing prefilter
It can remove much of the
metal content and help avoid
such problems. I hope that this
information proves helpful.
Sincerely. Alan
Schuster, 4/17/2007
►
Tannins In Well Water?
I have well water and it contains
tannin. Do you know how I can
filter it out of the water? Thank
you.
Amy R., 3/28/2007
Tannins will turn the water a tea
color. You should be able to destroy
them, merely by adding some extra
chlorine. Raise the level to 5 PPM.
Well water can contain metals and you
should treat
the water, by adding a
metal treatment. To be on
the safe side, you might consider using
a
PURESTART prefilter, as it can
help filter out particulates and metals found in
well water. Use it to treat all
new water added to the spa. It
will last through many fill ups and the
chemicals saving will make it pay for
itself. Doing
this will save you a lot of headaches,
should metals be present. I hope this
information is helpful.
Sincerely. Alan
Schuster, 3/29/2007
► Black Spots?
My spa and pool are 4 years
old. I have been treating my spa for what I thought was Black Algae for
the last five weeks. The temperature finally cooled off so I could empty
it and scrape off a sample. I took the sample to the pool supply place
and they determined it was metallic. There are two spots, about the size
of silver dollars, on the side of the spa. What could be causing this? Thank you.
Jake G., 10/29/2003
The stains could be the result of
copper, in the presence of high levels of calcium hardness. The copper
could have come from corrosion of the heater. Assuming that the spa and
pool are gunite, try putting about 1/2 pound of pH reducer in a sock and place
on a spot. Leave in place for about 30 minutes. Hopefully, this will
dissolve the upper layer of plaster and remove the stain. Sometimes, it is
necessary to use ascorbic acid
(METALTRAP
Stain Remover) for this purpose. Sometimes black spots form, as a result of the use and
abuse of calcium chloride in the plaster mixture. This problem was well
described in the 1/15/03 issue of Service Industry News (Carlsbad, CA). If
this is the case, there is nothing that is known to eliminate the problem, short
of refinishing. I hope that the information will prove helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
10/29/2003
► Green Gunk?
We have a fiberglass spa (500
gal) and it has developed green "gunk" (for lack of a better description). This
stuff is in small chunks and adheres to the sides of the tub, our suits, of
course it's filling the filter and it's covering the plastic parts of the
filter. If it lands on anything while hosing out the filter, it sticks like
glue. It can be scrapped off the tub and filter. What caused it and how do we
get rid of it? We switched from bromine to chlorine, could that have
caused it? We drained and cleaned the tub and filter before switching.
Thanks.
Kay & Jim, Florida, 3/10/2005
This "green gunk" could be copper,
resulting from corrosion of the filter. Not a good thing!
Have you been failing to maintain the pH at 7.2-7.8? Low pH
conditions will corrode the copper heater core, in the presence of chlorine or
bromine. Chlorine tablets should not ever be
used in a spa, especially not in the skimmer. I suggest that you have the
water tested for copper. If present, it is the result of corrosion and low
pH. Add a double dose of a quality metal treatment and make sure that the
pH is 7.2-7.8, at all times. You might be better off draining the spa, if
my assumptions are correct. Otherwise, get back to me with the actual
water analysis results and the type of chemicals being used. Have you ever
considered an
ozonator? It will make spa maintenance easier and produce
better water quality, with fewer chemicals. I hope that this information
will prove helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
3/10/2005
► Black Deposits?
I am in Lake Tahoe, Nevada. I operate an indoor swimming
pool and spa at an estate. Neither the pool or the spa gets used much. I am
having a problem with the spa. On several occasions I have found a very black
substance that almost appears to be a fungus that is attacking the chrome vents
on the sides and bottom of the spa. The spa is made of imported tiles and the
black substance always starts at the chrome and begins traveling into the grout
lines. Today, I drained the spa and sprayed household bleach on the spots. It
did nothing and I then sprayed Muriatic acid on the spots and they dissolved.
I just purchased a 9-way test kit so I can get specific readings for pH,
hardness etc. I'm not sure where to go from here. The local pool guy had
no idea what this problem could be. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Regards.
Tim M., Lake Tahoe, NV 5/11/2004
The problem is positively not a
fungus, mold, mildew, algae or bacteria. Otherwise the liquid chlorine
that you sprayed on would have had a positive effect. The fact the
muriatic acid dissolved the black deposits means that the problem is due to a
metallic or mineral stain. There are a few possibilities. The water
used to fill the units may contain trace amounts of iron and other heavy metals.
Testing the spa water as well as the tap water can help conform this
possibility. In any event, because it is a metal or mineral problem, I
suggest that you add a dose of a quality metal treatment monthly and prior to
the addition of any new makeup water. The other possibility is that the
deposits are being caused by the oxidation of the products of corrosion.
The copper heater core and other metal parts might have been subjected to
the corrosive forces of acidic water conditions. Copper can cause dark
stains in the presence of high levels of calcium hardness, although high
calcium, by itself, will not cause such a problem. Make sure that the pH
remains in the 7.2-7.6 range and the total alkalinity is not below 80-120
PPM. Either or both of these possibilities could have been the cause and
these steps should help avoid a recurrence. If you are using trichlor,
make sure that the feeder in plumbed after the heater and that there is a check
valve between the two. I hope that this information proves helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
5/12/2004
► Bad Advice & Softened Well Water?
I have a 375 gallon spa. I just emptied and
refilled it for the first time. When I initially filled it I use a Metal
Treatment product, as I use well water (softened) to fill the spa. I also use
calcium booster to increase the calcium for the softened water. I had no
problems. This time I went to a different spa dealer and was told to use a
stain and scale control for the metal. My water turned brown when I added my
bromine. The dealer assures me this is what I need to get rid of the metal.
The directions say 1 oz. per 300/gals. I have used 9 ounces with no luck.
Should I use more or was this the wrong advice?
Mary, 1/19/2005
Probably the wrong product. Having used
softened water, you don't need to use a scale control product. In fact, if
you used a combination of softened and unsoftened water, you wouldn't need to
add any calcium hardness booster. Water softeners may not remove heavy metals
such as iron, copper or manganese. Proper treatment requires a dose of a
quality Metal Treatment for each 0.5 PPM of heavy metals.
Otherwise, upon adding chlorine or bromine and/or raising the pH and total
alkalinity, the water may discolor or cause staining. This is exactly what
happened, according to your description. I suggest that you consider
adding Liquid METALTRAP,
as soon as possible. It is a true chelating agent and does not contain
phosphonic acid derivatives. It will not degrade over time and is not
affected by high pH, as are most of the typical metal treatments. Add at least a double dose
and expect a day or so for improvement. In the future, you know the
plan! Enjoy the spa and I hope that the advice proves helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 1/19/2005
►
Blue Stains?
I have some blue-colored stains near some jets and on the
bottom. Could this have been caused by copper? The spa is about 300 gallons
and is about 12 years old. I use bromine tablets and a non-chlorine shock. Is
there anything that I can do? Thanks.
Anthony N.,
VT, 10/30/2003
The blue-colored stains are probably
due
to copper. The likely source is from your heater. If you're lucky, the damage to the heater was not
serious. You didn't mention that there was any discoloration of the water, so I will
assume that there was none. That being the case, you probably don't have much copper
in the water. A
Copper
Test should
confirm this. To avoid staining, I suggest that you add a dose of a quality Spa
Mineral Treatment to the spa water. The next time that the spa is emptied, try
cleaning the stained areas with the same Spa Mineral Treatment.
Make sure that you
use rubber gloves and eye protection. Rinse any metal parts with water, to remove
the chemicals and the dissolved stains. Rinse spa clean before it is refilled and
don't forget to add a dose of the spa Mineral Treatment, as it is being refilled.
The cause of the copper problem was probably due to corrosive, low pH conditions. In
the future, make sure that the pH remains in the 7.2-7.8 range. To help stabilize
the pH, the total alkalinity should be 80-120 PPM. I hope that I have been
helpful. Keep enjoying the spa.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 10/30/2003
► Stain Removal
In Pool/Spa Combo?
I have a
large in-ground pool/spa, 7 years old, kidney shaped, about 30,000 gallons. It
has had a Copper Ionization + ozone system on it for about 5 years. Over the
years, the pool service did not maintain the pH properly and the pool has
developed gray stains. A drain and acid wash is recommended by my pool service
but I am reluctant to proceed due to the expense and the impact it has on the
pool surface finish. My pool technician, has suggested that he has been
successful in treating stains like these with the addition of Muriatic acid to
the water. I am willing to give this process a try as it appears cost effective
and should not damage the finish. I would like to try the treatment on the spa
first, and see if it is successful. If yes, than I would like to do it to the
whole pool. What are the pros and cons to this approach? How much Muriatic acid
needs to be added for success? My spa is 8 feet in diameter. How many gallons of
acid for the 30,000 gallon pool? How long should I let this circulate? Are there
different strengths of Muriatic acid? Which one should I use? What is the best
way to restore the water chemistry after this operation? Thanks.
M.B., 10/24/2007
A pool or spa be subjected to an acid bath as a means of stain
removal. Basically it dissolves the top surface and hopefully takes the stain
with it. Lowering the pH will subject the metal parts to corrosion, including
the heater, if chlorine or bromine are present. Therefore, treatment should
be in terms of a short period of time - a day or less. This is
important to help minimize the possibility of excessive surface etching. You have to add
enough acid to lower the pH below lower pH readings on the testers. A pH of
about 6.0 should suffice. Use the brush to scrub the surface. Bypass
the heater, if possible.
A better and safer method is to use the
METALTRAP Stain Removal
System. Once the discolorations and stains are removed,
use
The
METALTRAP Filter,
for all future water addition and the problem should not recur.
Restore the pH and TA. Because the addition of the metal treatment will interfere with the copper being
introduced by the ionization unit, I would recommend using a
polymer algaecide for a month or two, while the copper ion content is
re-established. I hope that this information proves helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
10/24/2007
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Proper water chemistry will help to better control and avoid sanitation
problems and maintain more optimum bathing conditions.
More information about Pool/Spa Water Testing Products can be found in the
Test Equipment Store. |
(Click on any image for ordering and
information.)
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