floatation chambers

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Floatation Tanks or Chambers, also known as isolation tanks, sensory deprivation tanks, salt water spas and REST chambers, are designed to separate you from the distractions and stimuli of the real world and take you a place of quiet, dark, relaxing isolation, as you float bouyantly upon a pleasurable body-temperature liquid. Instead of ordinary water, a concentrated solution of Epsom salts is used. Set your mind free!!! Floatation tanks can be accessorized to suit your needs. Maintenance of the water must be done, so as to assure proper and sanitary conditions. Clicking on the underlined and highlighted "keywords" or "catch phrases," in the archived answers will give you access to additional information on that topic or product. Please refer to the Glossary, if there are terms or phrases that require explanation.

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► Floatation Chamber Sanitizing?

I'm interested to install a custom made floatation chamber, which uses a very high concentration of Epsom Salts (about 280 kgs/500 litres water). Due to the extremely high concentration of salt, water is 99% sterile, in order to achieve 100% it's required an additional sanitizer. Which can be the best sanitizer system? Ozonator? UV? Brominator? Keeping in mind the high salt concentration, could there be any damage to the system? Corrosion or rusting?

Jorge P., 7/9/2005

UV will sanitize the water without chemicals and in an enclosed space that is very important. Bromine will sanitize the water and oxidize the wastes, but chemical odors might present a problem in the enclosed space. An Ozone Generator will allow Ozone gas to accumulate, in the air space, and will require special precautions, such as venting before use. While UV will sanitize the water effectively, something must be added to oxidize the waste products. Hydrogen peroxide can be used for this purpose and would not create an obvious chemical presence. For more information on UV sanitizing go to: www.deltauv.com Corrosion should not be an issue, as the equipment is intended to be used in a high salt situation. I hope that I have been helpful. Enjoy the experience!

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 7/9/2005

► Proper Floatation?

Hello Alan, I am in Hendersonville North Carolina. I am trying to figure out what type of testing product I need in order to keep an eye on the level of Epsom salts in my floatation tank. Can you help? Thank you in advance for any assistance you can offer.

Bethanne, Hendersonville, NC, 4/27/2004

Several ways to do this. Test the amount of magnesium or the amount of sulfate present. Because the concentration is so high, you would have to dilute the water sample with distilled water. In short, you would become an analytical chemist. You could dilute a sample and use a dissolved solids meter. Or you could simply drop a hydrometer in the tank. A hydrometer is a bobbing glass cylinder that is calibrated to read specific gravity or density. When the specific gravity is too high, you add water. Too low - you add Epsom salts. This would be the simplest water to it. Possibly, the manufacturer has made a tester, similar to what is used to test antifreeze levels. In any event, this is doable. The manufacturer should be able to provide you with details on testing. To use any of these methods, you have to know what consists the optimum range. I hope that this information was of some assistance.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 4/27/2004

► Brown Water And Sediments?

The water, in my floatation tank is coming out brownish. It appears to be coming from the out flow or possibly the problem is in the tank water, as it gets stirred up, it turns brown. 30 minutes, after the pump stops the water is clear again. I'm baffled? Just not sure why this is happening. It can't be rust, as it all looks to be all plastic to me. Possibly something in the UV filter canister? I look forward to your reply.

David, W., 8/26/2007

The sediments could be impurities, such as manganese, iron and other metals, from the Epsom salts. Using technical or industrial grades can increase this problem. I suggest using a pharmaceutical or food grade of Epsom salt. Vacuum them up or filter them out and the problem should not return, unless you add more salt. There is nothing in the UV unit that would cause this problem! While it is extremely unlikely that algae, mold or bacterial will ever flourish in a floatation tank and a UV sanitizer will kill most anything passing through the cell, it is not enough by itself. Oxidation is required to decompose all of the debris, wastes and dead microorganisms that pass right through the filter. Hydrogen peroxide or potassium monopersulfate would be the logical choices. An Ozonator could be used, if limited to certain periods of user inactivity and the chamber is vented before use. Better filtration could remove some of this debris accumulation. MicroPure has a line of micro-filters that could provide better performance and improve the water quality. Vigorous circulation and agitation will help suspend the microscopic particles and allow for more effective filtration. I hope this will help solve the problem.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 8/28/2007

► Turning Brown & Cloudy?

My problem doesn't related to a spa, but to a floatation bed. Just as background, my colleague and I have a business in which we use flotation beds. The floatation beds are filled with nothing but Epsom Salts, distilled water and chlorine. Over the past few days the water in the beds has become not only cloudy but almost rusty looking. Use of filter cleared the water previously, but it is not working this time. I have four beds and if the water isn't clear, people cannot float and the business comes to a standstill. As background, "floating" is a relaxation technique in which a person lays down in a bed of water (and Epsom Salts) and floats. The beds are dark and quiet, and the stillness induces a state of relaxation and oftentimes sleep. The beds are specially manufactured for this purpose. There are a few floatation centers in the US and some spas here also have one bed, however it is not all that common. Floatation centers are far more common in Europe. Any information you could provide would be greatly appreciated. Regards.

Katherine G. 8/22/2008

Most likely the Epsom salts contained iron and manganese and their oxidized states are causing the discoloration. Using a MicroPure Disposable spa filter will help remove the minute particles. For more about these filters, go to: www.micropre.ca Try vacuuming, first thing in the morning. Using chlorine, as a sanitizer, has to be a realer downer. I would prefer to use an ozonator, making sure to vent the tank, for at least 30 minutes prior to use. In addition, you could use a low level of bromine, perhaps 1-2 PPM. This will help confirm that the bromine has done its job, if only small amounts of bromine are required. The cloudiness could be due to inadequate oxidation, caused by the limited use of chlorine. Adding an ozonator will provide much better oxidation of wastes products and microorganisms. For more about ozone go to: www.waterquality.ca For additional sanitizing, you might consider using a UV sanitizer. For more information go to: www.deltauv.com They might add a dose or two of a metal treatment. Testing for iron and manganese should be done, although I am not sure a read will be gotten, with all that magnesium sulfate present. I hope that this information is helpful.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 8/23/2008

► Brown Sediments?

I just filled the floatation tank up and added the required amount of Epsom Salts and some other chemicals. I am beginning to see some brown sediments. What causes this?

H.N., 1/3/2008

It is likely that the Epsom Salts contains trace metals, such as manganese. Sanitizing chemicals or oxidation will cause sedimentation. These sediments can be filtered or vacuumed out and should not return, if all the trace metals have precipitated. A MicroPure high efficiency, disposable filter cartridge will help remove these particles and help maintain water clarity, as well. I hope that I have been helpful.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 1/4/2008

► Would Not Be My Choice?

I am a floatation tank owner and have recently run into some questions about the overall water maintenance. I have had the tank for years and we have two people using the tank twice a week on a regular basis. I never really had any issues, as far as the clarity of the water in the past. I do not have the UV option, so the water purity is up to whatever I use as a chemical system and filtration. In the past, I have simply added a little bleach from time to time and everything stays pretty clean (in appearance) for the most part. However the smell of the bleach in the contained environment and a growing concern about over all water balance leads me to look for alternatives.

After a little research looking for non-chlorine and bromine spa disinfects, I cam across the biguanide product line. In looking at their products, it appears to me that these might be a good fit for my purposes. I purchased the startup kit but I am experience the following issues.

1. The #3 product (sanitizer and scale) does not seem to be able to reach and acceptable level of measure? I have added much more then the recommended start up doses, but cannot get near the 30-50 ppm range, as recommended by the test kit? It just seems to eat this stuff without any increasing effect? I do get a 15 ppm reading, but cannot get the level to increase beyond this point.

2. The test kit shows calcium hardness off the scale. I assumed this would be the case with 800 LBS of Epsom salts in the water. Will the calcium levels or salt, in this type of environment, cause any issues with this type of water maintenance system? Should I be concerned about the high levels of calcium? Is there anything that could feasibly address this anyways with the salt solution?

3. I am assuming that I need to reach the right levels of the sanitizer and use the oxidizer and scale line products regularly as described by the product system to achieve a safe and verifiable level of sanitation. In many of your other replies about flotation tanks, they seem to address only using a high percentage hydrogen peroxide mix as an oxidation agent. Do I even need the sanitizer and oxidizer in this product line or should I scrap all of this and simply go with 35% Hydrogen Peroxide on some regular basis? Will this work as both a sanitizer and an oxidizer?

4. Should I use standard products for pH balance? The test kit shows by pH and total alkalinity to be high, can these be addressed by the standard spa products and do they need to maintained in a floatation tank environment like this? The tank product documentation does not really address pH at all and simply suggests a little bleach or peroxide from time to time.

Your web site is great source of information and I appreciate any specific information you can provide to me. In summary, I guess I have all of these specific questions which revolve around a central theme which is, in a tank environment, do I need to be concerned about total water balance like I would in a pool or spa? And does the biguanide product line present any issue in a vary high saltwater concentrated environment? Many thanks for your continued information focus to shed light and solid information in this area. Best regards.

Dean T., 9/17/2007

Firstly, chlorine is a very poor choice, even at low levels. It may function as a sanitizer and as an oxidizer, but it will produce chloramines: an odorous, irritating and largely ineffective form of combined chlorine. As chlorine reacts, with nitrogenous bather wastes, chloramines are formed. Obviously, within the confirms of a floatation tank, this cannot be pleasant. UV sanitizers require no chemicals, but can not sanitize the walls of the vessel. Still it is a great place to start, as it virtually destroys all of the microorganisms, in the return flow. For more information go to: www.deltauv.com The use of biguanide seems ill conceived. It is usually not used in the presence of divalent metals and you have lots of that present. The scale product probably will not function in your magnesium rich environment. Magnesium contributes to total hardness and probably interferes with the calcium hardness test. In any event, I would make an effort to fill the tank with low calcium hardness water and not be concerned about the calcium hardness, thereafter. Most likely, the calcium readings are meaningless and probably are actually reacting to the high level of magnesium, which is chemically close to calcium. Biguanide does not provide the necessary oxidation function. Hydrogen peroxide will provide the needed oxidation, but may not sanitize. Your water has a very high dissolved salts content and is not an ideal media for microbial growth. You might not need anything else, but it is not a given. Adding UV sanitizing will prevent a microbial bloom, without chemicals and hydrogen peroxide will provide the needed oxidation. An Ozone Generator could be used, but it will require venting of the tub, for a period after the ozonator is switched off and before the tank is used. Using a MicroPure high efficiency filter can re move microorganisms and help provide better water quality, while reducing chemical usage. For more information go to: www.micropure.ca In the interest of bather comfort and corrosion resistance, you should keep the pH at 7.2 - 7.8. Lowering the pH, if high, will lower the total alkalinity. You can use sodium bisulfate to lower the pH. There is probably no compelling reason to worry about the TA, as lowering the pH. will make scaling less likely, that it is at the present. I hope that this information is helpful.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 9/17/2007

► Slimy Walls Require Oxidation?

I have a floatation/relaxation tank (containing a high concentration of Epsom Salt to provide buoyancy) that I’ve been using UV to sanitize. I’ve been having a problem with a slime buildup on the liner of my tank. I’ve learned through your responses to other questions, that this is due to the fact that UV is a disinfectant, not an oxidizing agent. You had suggested to someone else that they use hydrogen peroxide as a shock. I did this using the only hydrogen peroxide I could find which was the drug store 3% variety. I used this for a while, with no negative effects to the water, but was concerned that the solution needed a stronger shock than it was getting with 3% H2O2. I decided to give Potassium MonoPerSulfate a try. When I added the Potassium MonoPerSulfate to the tank water with the circulator running, my water immediately changed color to a murky chocolate brown. Over night it faded to a light tea color. I figured one of three things were the problem: Either 1. There was a reaction between the monopersulfate and the Epsom Salts 2. I didn’t use enough monopersulfate, and what I was seeing was half oxidized bio matter. Or 3. There was a reaction between any residual H2O2 and the monopersulfate. To test this, I mixed up a fresh batch of clean tank solution (about a pound of Epsom Salts to 12 ounces of water) and added a tiny bit of monopersulfate to it. – NO COLOR CHANGE. Next I added some more MonoPerSulfate to it – STILL NO COLOR CHANGE. I then cautiously added a little 3% H2O2 to it – STILL NO COLOR CHANGE. I figured since I couldn’t get any color change using my tests of clean solution, my problem must be half oxidized bio matter. Acting on this assumption, I added more monopersulfate to the tank. After about another hour or two of running the tank circulator, I checked the water, and found it to be lighter, but not clear. Being impatient, and fairly confident that monopersulfate and H2O2 mixed OK together, I added a little of the peroxide. Almost instantaneously the water turned crystal clear. At this point I figured I had applied enough shock, and the water was happy again. Assuming that the cause of my problem was un-oxidized bio matter, I decided to stay a step ahead of things this time. With the water freshly shocked a couple of days earlier, and no use of the tank since, I added about an ounce of monopersulfate to the tank solution. Immediately the brown color returned. I added some more monopersulfate after a while, and still the brown color. I then added about 10 ounces of 3% H2O2 and instantly, the solution cleared again. Could you answer the following questions?

What the heck is going on to create these sudden radical color changes? Why did the monopersulfate turn the tank water brown? Why did the peroxide return it to crystal clear? Why couldn’t I duplicate this reaction in a fresh glass of Epsom Salt Water?

Now that the water is clear, is it safe to float in?

What should I use going forward? Monopersulfate, Hydrogen Peroxide, or both?

If the answer to #3 is Hydrogen Peroxide? Is the 3% drug store variety appropriate (I can get a quart for about $1.25 so it’s pretty cheap), and if not where do I purchase a stronger variety (from what I’ve read on the web 8%+ solutions are classified as hazardous. Not to mention extremely expensive, mostly due to shipping)?

I’m using a small cartridge filter and a UV lamp in the filtration system. Do either of these now need to be serviced/cleaned as a result of this?

Thanks in advance for you help on this. Hopefully your background in chemistry can shed some light on what’s going on.

Dave, 12/19/2006

The decomposition products of peroxide and MPS are all colorless. You could be dealing with less than a PPM of a trace metal and that is nearly impossible to see in a small sample. The Epson salt may have contained metals such as manganese or iron and this led to a brownish sediment. Oxidation will cause many trace metals to darken in color and precipitate, as the less-soluble, oxidized forms develop. It should settle out and/or be removed by filtration. Once removed, the problem should not recur, unless more salts are added. The addition of the MPS probably oxidized iron or other trace metals to a more colored state. Adding some metal treatment might or might not help, given the high magnesium concentration. I would not use MPS, in this application, as I have received letters about irritation, when excess amounts are present. Hydrogen peroxide seems to make the most sense. Pool and spa dealers, that sell biguanide sanitizers, will carry a concentrated peroxide solution. This should prove more cost effective. To provide oxidation, you might consider an ozonator. However, it should be used only when the unit is not being used and you should vent the chamber before each use. A MicroPure high efficiency filter might help improve results and reduce the amount of oxidization required. Visit www.deltauv.com for more on UV sanitizing. It is possible to test the peroxide level: visit www.lamotte.com for more on the subject. For the water to be pleasant and safe, you want all traces of slime gone and water chemistry within the reasonable range. I hope that this information will prove helpful.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 12/20/2006

► Too Many Chemicals?

I am planning on buying a floatation tank and am concerned about the sanitizing. One dealer says, I don't need much and another says that I should use ozone and a mineral sanitizer. I have been in spas and I don't fancy being enclosed in that type of a situation. Is it possible to do this without chemicals? Or as few as possible. Thanks for any help you can provide.

Edward M., 5/12/2005

It is true that the presence of the high concentration of Epsom salts will prevent most microorganisms from surviving. Most is not necessarily good enough. You can sanitize the water without any chemicals, if you use an UltraViolet Sanitizer. It will sanitize the water, as it passes through the cell, using only UV rays. However, you will still need to add something to oxidize waste products. In a pool or spa, chlorine or bromine are used most often. In a floatation chamber, these products will create an unpleasant chemical presence. Adding concentrated hydrogen peroxide will destroy the wastes and avoid an overbearing chemical signature and seems the better choice. The overall water chemistry should be maintained according to the manufacturer's recommendations. I hope that I have been of some assistance.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 5/12/2005

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