Cloudiness is one of the most frequent problems that a spa or hot tub owner will
encounter. There is no one cause of cloudy, murky, milky, gray, hazy
or dull spa or hot
tub water problems: suspended insoluble particles, dead algae, organic
debris, poor or inadequate filtration, inadequate sanitation, poor water
chemistry, poor source water quality, vandalism and more, all have to be
factored into the treatment. A spa water color problem is frequently with
presence of heavy metals and may or may not be associated with cloudy spa water
conditions. Foamy spa conditions, resulting from the aeration of soaps
formed by body oils and cosmetic residues reacting with the natural alkalinity
of the water, can detract from optimum water clarity. Most spas and hot tubs do maintain clear water conditions, with
good water clarity. For
those occasional problems, many chemical products are available that help to restore the
water quality to crystal clear.
Clicking on
the underlined and highlighted "keywords" or "catch phrases," in the
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Please refer to the Glossary, if
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►
Spa Water Has Gone Hazy?
Hi
Alan. My spa has developed a milky white haze in the water. You can still
see the bottom through the hazy water, but in the direct sunlight I don’t think you
will be able to. I have only ever seen this after a big session,
where all sorts of impurities like alcohol etc. end up in the water. Normally
I would simply dump the water and start again but we are having water
restrictions due to the drought conditions here in Australia and we are not
permitted to refill spa's or pools or even wash our cars with a hose. It is a
1500 litre outdoor spa and I sanitise it with bromine tablets in a floating type
chlorinator. It is tiled with dark blue tiles, which make it easier
to see the haze in the water. I regularly use a test kit to test
free chlorine (DPD tablets), pH, alkalinity and acid demand. I
usually keep the bromine level about 5, pH about 7.7 and alkalinity between
80-120.
What happened:
One day about 2 months ago, I tested the water and the bromine level had jumped
well up above 11, so I left the brominator out for a few weeks until the level
had come down. Then over the next month I progressively closed the brominator
down to maintain the bromine level at about 4. The brominator was now
practically closed but still maintaining a normal level! Last week I looked at
the water and it looked a little bit hazy, so I ran the filter for longer than
normal. This week the water is really hazy, so I did a bromine check and it is
0. The pH is about 7.2 and the
alkalinity is about 70ppm. Why the bromine is now so low I do not know, I
suspect that I may have had a bromine tablet which was very strong and this is
what caused the bromine level to go so uncharacteristically high a few months
ago, and now that that tablet has finally dissolved the brominator was closed
way too far.
What I did:
So I opened the brominator back up to where it was a few months ago, and shocked
the water with about 100g of chlorine, cleaned the filter and ran the filter for
about 6 hours, but with no luck. I found that, when I turned the
blower on, the water foams a lot, which is not normal. I cleaned the
filter again afterwards, but it was still basically clean. The water
is still as milky as it was before I started. I have never used a water
clarifier before because I have never found them necessary. Do you
think this might be a solution to my problem? And do you think the 100g of
chlorine would be enough to make the water safe to use again? Regards.
Michael, Australia, 1/20/2008
I'm
afraid that there is no clear cut answer to the problem, as you are describing
it. However, there are some very good possibilities. The drought has
prevented you from changing the water. Not knowing how long the water has
been in use and what the calcium hardness level is, leaves open the possibility
that the water is too high in calcium hardness and/or total dissolved
solids. Have the water tested to determine, if there is a problem with
these parameters. The fact that water worsened, after the bromine level
bottomed out, allows for the possibility that a bacterial slime caused the
cloudiness. The subsequent additions of chlorine and bromine may have only
partially decomposed the bacteria. The addition of a
NanoStick Clarifier can destroy organic
wastes, body oils and organic byproducts, that detract from the water clarity
and cause more foaming, due to spa formation. This 10 inch stick is simply
hung in the spa and can last for 4-6 months. The fact that
your water is foaming, beyond what you consider normal, points to another
possibility. Heavy bather use can introduce high levels of body oils and
cosmetic residues and this can lead to cloudiness. In addition, the
natural alkalinity of the water can cause these oils to form "soaps"
and this will lead directly to increased foaming. Adding the NanoStick can
eliminate the organic byproducts that lead to soap formation and foaming. It is not possible that the bromine tablet was too
strong! A hundred grams of chlorine is a significant amount in a spa of
your size. Even though you are adding chlorine, you must test for bromine,
as the chlorine will convert to bromine. I would not recommend using the
spa unless the bromine level is within safe limits and has been there for at
least 30 minutes. When using a floating brominator, try and keep a
reasonable level of tablets in the feeder at all times. Do not allow all
the tablets to dissolve before adding more. This will allow for low
levels of bromine and the possibility of poor sanitation.
While bromine alone
can provide good results, having an ozonator
will make it much easier. It will reduce chemical usage and allow you to
maintain a lower and more comfortable bromine level. I hope that I
have provided enough information to point you in the right direction. Good
luck.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 1/20/2008
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► High Efficiency
Filter Cartridge?
I am
debating switching my regular filter to a disposable micro filter. It was
independently tested and is 94 % efficient at removing particles at 1 micron.
With this filter, you are supposed to get rid of using defoamers, decalcifiers,
basically any liquids normally added to the tub. The filters will last 2-4
months and are about $30. Less expensive than using all the other materials.
According to the company, it will remove all particles that can cause damage to
the hot tub. Of course, you still need to have sanitizer in the tub. Just
wondering if you had an info or thoughts on these filters. The spa
manufacturer, in my city, sells all their tubs with these filters and has for
over 3 years. Thanks in advance of your thought. Cheers
Derek,
Canada, 1/14/2010
Depending upon
the quality of your source water a
high efficiency filter cartridge can make a significant difference.
It will certainly remove very small particulates and some microorganisms.
It will not make the water in the spa sanitary and will not
remove salts that are in true solution. Organic wastes, byproducts,
body oils and
other contaminants, can pass right through filters. A
NanoStick Spa Clarifier can remove these
materials, without the use of chemicals or result in anything being added to the
water. It is 21st century technology, that can clearly produce better
water quality. Better filtration should improve
water quality and reduce the need for some or most of the accessory chemicals.
You will still have to maintain a proper sanitizer level and keep the pH, TA and
calcium hardness within acceptable ranges. There is no doubt that
this type of filter is better than the standard spa cartridges, but they can't
remove everything. I hope
that I have been helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 1/14/2010
►
Cloudy Spa Water?
Before using the spa, the water is
always clear. After using it for about 20 minutes the water is cloudy. I use
bromine to sanitize. Is that normal? Thank you.
Josh, Ellenville, NY,
1/15/2009
It is hard to
be very specific with so little information. If your spa had a sanitizer
level prior to your entering the water, it understandable that the water would
be clear. Twenty minutes later, a lot
of body oils, dead skin and sweat has been introduced into the water. At this point,
the sanitizer level has been reduced or depleted. I suggest that after using the
spa, you test the water. If there is little sanitizer present, it would a good idea
to add a quick dissolving shock: a non-chlorine product is usually a good choice.
This will help boost the bromine level and help restore clarity. Are you
maintaining a
bromine
level of 3-5 PPM?
You might consider adding a
NanoStick Clarifier
to help eliminate organic byproducts, wastes and debris. This could be
part of the reason the water is not as clear, as you would like. Your spa most likely has a cartridge filter and it has to be cleaned on a
regular basis. An easy way to clean the filter is with
THE BLASTER.
It is an automatic cartridge filter cleaner that simply attaches to a garden
hose. I hope
that I have been of assistance. Enjoy the spa?
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
1/15/2009
► Remaining Cloudy?
We use a biguanide chemical
system for our spa. We have had cloudy water for the past few weeks.
We bring in water samples and they are good. We bought a new filter but
the water remains cloudy. Any ideas that can help fix up our water? Thanks.
Bob E., 10/4/2004
The prolonged
use of biguanide can lead to the development of sanitizer resistant
microorganisms, after a few years of product use. This type of problem
borders on the inevitable and while it might not be the cause of the current
problem, it has to be considered a possibility. Try adding shock and a
blue clarifier to the spa. If the water fails to improve, the resistant
microorganism possibility becomes more likely. The only recourse is to
drain and clean the spa and permanently switch to another type of sanitizing.
People that use biguanide frequently do so in order to avoid obvious chemical
sanitizing. If that is the case, you should consider installing an
ozonator and using bromine or a
mineral sanitizer
as a backup.
The use of ozone will provide much better water quality without an
overbearing chemical presence and the use of a backup sanitizer will afford
greater protection. This
sanitizing approach is far less likely to allow the development of a sanitizer-resistant microorganism.
I hope that
this information will prove to be useful. If askalanaquestion.com was helpful
in providing information, please tell your friends and dealers about the
website.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 10/5/2004
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► Needs Clearing
Up?
Hey Alan!!
You helped me out several
years ago on many occasions with your useful answers concerning my pool (my
giant chemistry set). Now, I have a spa question - my new giant chemistry set.
I have a brand new 6-seat Spa (370 gallons) and am starting chemicals (a
Bromine system). I’m up on scale & stain and the
proper levels on bromine, pH, Alkalinity and I’ve shocked it once (basically,
all the start-up chemicals). The test strip looks great. A defoamer product
took care of lots of foam and that’s all good now.
The water is still pretty cloudy. The chemicals have been in about 3 days.
There’s no mention of an algaecide or flocking
agents or anything like that on the spa side like I use on my pool. So how do
I clear up the water? Thanks! Warm & cloudy,
John M.,
11/11/2009
Algaecides are
not normally used in a spa, unless the unit is left uncovered and there are
recurring algae problems. Flock is not something I go out of my way to
recommend, even in a pool. However, you can try using a
NanoStick Clarifier. This type of
product can help remove fine particles. organic wastes & byproducts and debris, that
might be passing through the filter. Make sure that the filter cartridge
is installed properly! It is possible that water chemistry factors have
conspired to cause the cloudiness: check the pH, TA and calcium hardness
level. If everything checks out right and the bromine levels have remained
normal, I would try an keep the bromine levels closer to 5 PPM. This type of chemical can
help digest organic debris and wastes that might be contributing to the problem.
I hope that this information will prove helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 11/11/2009
|
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► Cloudy To Awesome?
I have recently purchased a
spa. As soon as I added chemicals It became cloudy in a few hours. I was told to
add a metal treatment and a clarifier. It became better but not crystal. I
then was over my brother's house and he had a red AquaPill which said it would
make particles big, so they could be filtered. I got home and was going to
put it in my pool. On the way to the pool I was sick of the cloudy water
and threw it in the hot tub. Within ten minutes my tub had brown crap
floating on top. So I was mad and I skimmed off the brown stuff and went
to work. I got home opened it up and to my amazement the water was
perfect. I then cleaned the filters and the spa was awesome. My
problem is since then I have added more water and I am back to cloudyville. I
have a well and the water must have something in it. The spa store gave more of
the metal treatment and clarifier, but nothing worked as well as the AquaPill.
Is this safe to use? I don't want to wreck my spa. Thanks.
Scott H., 7/9/2005
You did
nothing to worry about. What the product did was to coagulate the dissolved
and/or suspended iron and other metals, based on the color description. This
caused the iron precipitate to float to the surface and you followed by removing
it. Your water is clear and better in terms of its color because you removed
the iron. The
AquaPill product is completely safe to use and is available in a spa
version, as well. You should treat the spa, whenever new water is added.
For more information go to:
www.smartpool.com Enjoy the spa.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 7/9/2005
► Pink Spa Water Color?
My new Spa (about 8 weeks old)
has developed a pinkish color (very faint). I am wondering what could have
caused it. The alkaline and pH balance is just fine (maybe pH could be a bit
lower). And my bromine level is very low. I've got several tablets floating
around for about 1 week, but can't seem to bring it up to the right level yet. I
tried to shock the water and also added a couple of capfuls of Water Clarifier.
It seems to have helped a lot, but the pink is still slightly there. Any idea
how to bring up the bromine level, and get
rid of the pinkish color forever? PS. I live in N. California. If that makes a
difference. Thanks.
Smeeta G., California, 10/7/2004
While it
possible that some combination of trace minerals is responsible for the
discoloration, it is more likely that this is a bacterial problem, caused by
inadequate sanitation. I base this on the fact that you are unable to
maintain a satisfactory bromine level and are using slow-dissolving bromine
tablets. There's nothing wrong with the bromine, but it doesn't play
catch-up very well. You must keep adding shock, until you get a bromine
level that remains in the 3-5 PPM range for an overnight period.
Thereafter, keep the bromine dispenser as full as possible and use shock to
quickly boost the level or restore it after periods of usage. An
ozonator
will make the task of spa sanitizing much easier and reduce the chemical usage.
With an ozonator present, you can use bromine as a sanitizer backup. I hope that I have been
helpful. Enjoy the same.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 10/7/2004
► Biofilm
Accumulations?
My spa was drained and shut
down for about 6 weeks waiting on a repairman. After refilling it I noticed
stuff floating in the water after turning the jets off. It almost looks like
large pieces of dead skin. I guess it is some kind of algae or pipe scum. I
have drained and cleaned it over 8 or 9 times, using a shop-vac to suck out
all the jets, I have used a "slime" product about 5 times. I have let
the jets run for hours on end trying to filter it out, and I still keep
getting this crap as soon as I refill it and turn the jets on. Could you
please tell me what I can get to get rid of this "pipe scum." It is breaking
me up in water bills and chemical bills. I've not been able to get in my
spa for over a year now. PLEASE HELP my family and I are begging.
Thanks.
Todd R., Burgin, Kentucky, 11/18/2003
It sounds like
you have an accumulation of dead microorganisms in your lines. I suggest
that you boost the chlorine or bromine level to 10 PPM and keep it elevated
until all of this biofilm has been decomposed. Keep the filter operating
and maintain proper water chemistry. Once enough chlorine has been added
to decompose all of the debris, you should be able to resume normal operations.
For free chlorine testing, I
suggest using LaMotte Insta-Test strips, as they provide the right kind of
information. Go to:
www.lamotte.com
To better assure proper overall spa water chemistry, visit a pool/spa store that
has a very reliable, professional lab such as a WaterLink or Pinpoint system,
rather than a less accurate test kit or strip reader. To locate a dealer near
you, go to:
www.lamotte.com/pages/pool/expdeal/index.html
I hope that I have been of help.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 11/18/2003
► Suffering With
Scale?
We live in a hard water area.
I've had problems with my spa due to scale forming. Besides the scale
deposits, I've had white flakes shooting out of the returns. Any
suggestions?
J. H., Mesa, AZ, 5/6/2004
You could fill
you spa with soft water, that is if you have one.
Some manufacturers
recommend against using soften
water, but if you adjust all of the spa water chemistry parameters - especially
the calcium hardness, pH and total alkalinity - to within normal suggested
ranges, there should be no problems.
You could add a calcium sequestering agent and try to keep the pH closer to 7.2
and the TA, if possible, within 80-120 PPM. A
spa water magnetizer or
magnetic water conditioner is another possibility. This strap-on device
has been reported to help reduce spa calcium scaling problems, as well as
improve some other spa water parameters. I hope that I have given you some
options. Good luck.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 5/6/2004
|
The easy way
to help manage scale problems! |
►
Looking Bad?
We were gone for the entire summer and
the spa was left with only a bromine floater. It now looks like yuck! What
do you suggest? Thanks for the help.
Ken G., Fayetteville, NC,
9/7/2008
I suggest that you start draining
the water and do some rinsing with a garden hose. Clean out the filter and replace.
Refill with fresh water and add a double or triple dose of a quick dissolving chlorine or
non-chlorine shock. Make sure that the pH is 7.2-7.6. Keep the Free Chlorine
level high and the filter operating. Retest frequently and add more shock, as
required. Eventually, the chlorine will destroy all of the "yuck" that
developed on the walls, in the plumbing, in the filter and in the nooks and crannies.
When things clear up, empty the spa and rinse off everything in sight. Now,
you are ready to start from scratch. With a little time and effort, you
should end up with crystal clear spa water. To help keep it that way, a
NanoStick Clarifier would go a long way
towards maintaining crystal-clear water. You still have to maintain proper
sanitation and chemistry, but this product will clearly help improve the water
quality and feel. I hope that I have been helpful. Good
luck.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
9/7/2008
► Baffling Cloud?
Hi Alan, I sure am glad I found this web site. Good
information around here has been hard to come by. My saga begins last spring,
when I changed the water it was already becoming cloudy. I have been using
biguanide. I cleaned the spa then refilled it. A few days later it started
clouding again, I drained and refilled it again. It still clouded a little
bit, I tried clarifier with no success. At this point I just lived with it,
but I did a bad thing and didn't change the water till ten day's ago (approx.
6 months). When I drained the water the tub had a considerable amount of
scale?, Hard water? White residue everywhere. I pressure washed the tub and
removed the jets and cleaned in vinegar. I filled the tub, turned on jets and
tub filled with hard water particles. Drained and cleaned again. Now looks
real good. Added chemicals and two days later started clouding again. Took
water sample to dealer. pH was 7.4,calcium was 76, alkalinity was 180. I added
12oz of pH decreaser slowly .Next day water is cloudier. I shocked spa with
10oz hydrogen peroxide (2nd time since fill). On the ninth day after fill I
can just barely see the bottom, the water is milky white. I had the water
tested again with a computer analyzer and it showed everything in range. I
decided to drain the water again, as the water level dropped 6 inches. I found
a thick layer of white, hard substance covering surface of spa. The substance
is very hard to remove. It is somewhat chalky when rubbed off. I am stumped. I
know I am changing from biguanide. Any input would be appreciated. I can't
imagine water going so bad in only nine days. I am at a loss as what to do
now or even what the problem is.
Tom S., Indiana, 10/22/2005
There's nothing in the information provided
that points to an obvious cause. Your calcium hardness reading is not high
enough to account for the problem. Unless, the reading is in error or you
added a pH buffering product in the recent past. I would have the spa
water and the tap water tested for calcium hardness. If the calcium level
is approximately 76, it is not the problem and the high TA is not a problem.
The biguanide sanitizer might have contributed to the cloudy water problems, by
allowing the development of a biguanide-resistant microorganism. Switching
to a chlorine, or even better to a bromine sanitizer, make sense. Start
off with a clean slate.
The addition of an
ozone generator
will greatly improve
the water quality and reduce the chemical usage. Monitoring the chemistry, after switching from
biguanide, should help you achieve proper water quality, but may not explain the
problem. I hope that I have been helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 10/23/2005
►
Turning Green?
I have a new spa with an ozonator and a
mineral spa purifier. I use one teaspoon of chlorine granules every other
night. The first time I filled the spa it was fine for almost two weeks and
then turned green. I refilled it again, and it turned green in a few days. I
was also given MPS in the startup kit but the instructions said I could use
either chlorine or MPS so I preferred as few chemicals as possible. How might
I cure the green problem, and are all these chemicals really safe for my
family to be soaking in? Thanks.
Marilyn R., 5/6/2004
I don't think that safety is the issue.
Yes, the chemicals are safe, when used as directed. Pools turn green
because of algae growth due to inadequate sanitation. Algae is not a
common problem in most spas. The green color could be due to the presence
of metals in the source water, especially if well water was used. Most likely the green color is due to excessive amounts of
copper. There are two sources for the copper: corrosion of the
heater core, if the pH was too low for extended periods of time or the source
water.
The combination of an
ozonator
and a mineral sanitizer usually works very well.
An ozonator needs a backup sanitizer and the mineral sanitizer fills that role.
However, adding chlorine every other day on top of this treatment could be
considered overkill. THE
FROG Mineral Sanitizer does not utilize
copper, so it is not part of the problem! Make sure that the ozonator is operating
properly and for several periods throughout the day. All you should have
to add is a small amount of chlorine, so as to maintain a low level
(approximately 1 PPM). The ozonator will do most of the work and the
presence of the Free Chlorine will help assure proper sanitation. So that
you start with a clean slate, empty the spa. If you are using well water,
have the water tested for iron and add a metal treatment. Refill and add
enough chlorine to boost the Free Chlorine level to 3 PPM. Make sure that
the pH is 7.2-7.6 and that the TA and calcium are acceptable. From this
point on add enough chlorine to maintain 1 PPM of Free Chlorine. Make sure
that you
test for Free Chlorine! As
long as you have the MPS, add some after periods of heavy bather usage. I
hope that this information will prove helpful. Let me know how it turns
out.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 5/6/2004
►
The Blues?
We recently brought a home with
an existing spa. It looked okay, water clear and everything when we moved in.
Two weeks after we moved in we added some chlorine and pH chemicals that we
purchased from a local dealer. Within a week the water was extremely blue, there
is sediment on the bottom of the spa that is blue and our fingernails turned
blue after getting in. (We had not noticed all of this before getting in the
spa, our blue fingernails alerted us to the unusual color). The local dealer is
telling us that it is the heater and because of the imbalance of pH our heater
is about to "tank" and the blue is from the copper tube. This spa and heater are
less than two years old. Could this dealer be right. What action should we take?
Will draining the spa and changing the filters help us? It appears that my grey
hot tub is now stained blue, is there anything that will take the blue off the
spa liner? Will our spa ever be safe for us to enter after it is cleaned and
restarted with new chemicals.
Cathy G., 3/17/2006
The dealer is correct!
The cause of the problem was corrosion to the heater, that resulted from
low pH conditions and the presence of chlorine or bromine.
Hopefully, the heater was not fatally destroyed. Fill the spa up and make
sure that there is no chlorine present or at most a few tenths of a PPM.
Add 1/2-1 pound of ascorbic acid to the water and make sure that the pH is about
6.5. Allow to recirculate. Add more ascorbic acid, as needed, until
the discoloration has been dissolved. Drain and thoroughly clean the spa.
Refill and add a double dose of a metal treatment. Resume normal spa
sanitizing and make sure that the pH remains in the 7.2-7.6 range. Discuss
how the spa was being sanitized with the dealer, as this might have been part of
the problem. I hope that this information will prove helpful.
Sincerely. Alan
Schuster, 3/18/2006
► Clouding Up?
I have a small hot tub 1000 litres. I am using a 2 part
bromine system. It seems that about every 2 weeks the water clouds up, murky
like. I follow the chemicals directions, I use test strips and monitor
alkalinity, pH, calcium hardness, bromine. I add defoamer as required and the
odd shot of clarification liquid. 2 nights ago the water was clear.
Tonite my water was cloudy and my bromine was not reading well, negative if you
will. I usually do a daily routine for bromine. I test strip and add if
low. Everything was fine two days ago, I missed one day and it clouded up.
Anyway like I said virtually no reading tonite, so I added the prescribed weekly
dose and the water turned slightly green, as well as staying cloudy. Question
will the water clear as the bromine dissipates and it burns off the organics?
Phillip T., 9/11/2003
The water is becoming cloudy because there is not enough
bromine to oxidize and decompose all of the organic debris and wastes and
maintain control of the microorganisms.
The bottoming out of the bromine level allows bacteria to start growing on the
underwater surfaces.
You need to shock the spa and maintain an elevated bromine level, above 5 PPM,
until the water clears. Thereafter, maintain a 3-5 PPM level, adding
product on an as needed basis. I suggest that you add some of the oxidizer
product after each use of the spa. Before using the spa, test the water
and add additional product, as might be required and wait 1/2 hour before using
the spa. The green color could be part of the same problem or it could be
due to corrosion of the copper in the heater. Low pH conditions will allow
bromine to corrode the copper. Have the water tested for copper and add a
mineral treatment, if present. Thereafter, pay more attention to the pH
and total alkalinity. Have you ever cleaned or replaced the filter
cartridge? It might need servicing or replacement to restore proper
efficiency. I hope that this information will prove helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster,
9/11/2003
►
From Clear To Cloudy?
I added a product that is supposed to
lock in the pH of a spa and make it more stable. I followed the directions, but I
ended up with very hazy
spa
water. The dealer said that my pH must have been too high
to start. Some help would be appreciated. Thanks.
Bill D., Celebration, FL,
2/5/2005
While it is
possible that the pH was too high to start with, the real cause of the problem
is most likely due to the natural hardness of the water. These products
should not be used if the calcium hardness is above 300 PPM. Even at
levels between 200-300 PPM, clarity problems can result, depending upon the pH
and total alkalinity. Personally, I suggest that you do not use such a product, if the calcium hardness
of the spa water is above 200 PPM. Your filter should be able to remove the
particles. The addition of one of those "Blue" Clarifiers should help
speed up the removal of the suspended particles and help eliminate the spa water
cloudiness problem. After the water is clear,
thoroughly clean the filter, with a hose. An even easier way to
clean the filter is with
THE BLASTER. It is an automatic
cartridge filter cleaner that simply attaches to a garden hose. Afterwards, you might want to soak the
cartridge in a solution made with a Spa Filter Cleaner. The best products to use are
acidic cleaners formulated with low-foaming detergents. If the walls and bottom are
coated white, you might be better off draining and cleaning the spa and starting
over. In the future, you should stabilize or "lock in" your pH by
maintaining the total alkalinity at 80-120 PPM. In addition, you might want to add a
dose of
Liquid Metal Trap, in order to help keep calcium and other minerals
from precipitating and causing cloudiness or discoloration. The pH Buffer Products work
very well in soft water areas. However, in hard water areas, there is a possibility of
causing a cloudy, hazy or dull spa water problem. I hope that I have been helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
2/5/2005
► Hard Water Causing
Cloudiness?
I'm hoping you can help me
with this one. I have had a hot tub for three months. The water tends to
go cloudy after a few weeks. We've changed the water twice already as a
result, thinking it was full of too many dissolved solids. (We did use it
an awful lot in the first month!) With this third filling of water, we had
a malfunction of our temperature gauge, and so left the tub alone for a week
while we waited for a repairman. During that week I watched the water go
cloudy, despite us not bathing in it or adding any chemicals. The pH tends
to drift high (to 7.8-8.2), and the TA is always high (240 ppm at least) -
we live in an area with lots of dissolved minerals, including calcium
(always over 1000 ppm total hardness). So, I began wondering if some
of those minerals were coming out of solution and that was causing the
cloudiness. Googling 'saturation' and 'hot tub' brought me to your website
and the
Langelier index.
But now I'm stumped. It seems that I need to bring down the TA and the pH.
How do I bring down the TA? And 2nd question: Our hot tub company tells us
to fill the tub with city water, rather than the softened water we use in
our house, so the dishes and laundry don't get covered with deposits. I
wonder, if we should perhaps do half and half? I'd appreciate your
thoughts.
Sophie, F., Guelph, Ontario, Canada, 4/12/2007
By all means use the softened water!
Your water is very hard and could contain dissolved metals. Otherwise,
you could continuously be in a heap of trouble. After the spa is filled
take a sample into a local dealer for a water analysis. If you use 10%
city water and 90% softened water, you should have to do very little.
You might not need even need to adjust the calcium hardness, to compensate
for the use for softened water. Test the water to be sure and adjust,
if necessary. Check the pH and TA and adjust, as necessary.
Once done, it should be treated like any other spa. The dealer was
wrong in his thinking. Using mostly softened water will allow you
to obtain a proper hardness level (150-200 PPM) and avoid, cloudiness
and scaling and filtration issues. This lower hardness should
avoid cloudy issues, so long as proper sanitation and filtration are
maintained. I hope that this information will help clarify
the subject.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 4/12/2007
► Floating White
Particles?
We recently purchased a home
which has an above ground spa. Unfortunately we were not left any reference
materials related to the spa. It has been cleaned, but we are still seeing
small black and viscous white particles floating throughout the water, no one
has used the spa since we moved in. I assumed that the filter would take care
of this, but the particles are still there. Is there something that we can do
about this as we REALLY want to use our spa. Thank you for any advice
that you can offer.
Angela G., 5/8/2004
What you are describing is the
flaking off of scale and copper corrosion deposits from the heater coil.
The white particles are calcium carbonate and the dark ones are probably
oxidized copper. I suggest that you add a dose of a calcium scale
treatment and a metal treatment. These products should help end the
problem within a few days. Have the water tested for copper and calcium
hardness, as this will provide insight into the problem. If the problems
continue, you may want to do the following. Allow the chlorine level to
zero out. Lower the pH to about 6.0 and keep recirculating the water.
When there seems to be no more white particles, drain and clean the spa.
Refill, add a dose of a calcium scale treatment and resume normal operation.
Depending upon the type of filter that you have, calcium minerals can be
passing right through the filter. I hope that this information proves helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 5/9/2004
|
Proper water chemistry will help to better control and avoid sanitation
problems and maintain more optimum bathing conditions.
More information about Pool/Spa Water Testing Products can be found in the
Test Equipment Store. |
(Click on any image for ordering and information.)
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