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How to
keep your spa or swim-spa water crystal-clear? |
Cloudiness is one of the
most frequent problems that a spa or hot tub owner will
encounter. There is no one cause of cloudy, murky, milky,
gray, hazy or dull spa or hot tub water problems: suspended
insoluble particles, dead algae, organic debris, poor or
inadequate filtration, inadequate sanitation, poor water
chemistry, poor source water quality, vandalism and more,
all have to be factored into the treatment. A spa water
color problem is frequently with presence of heavy metals
and may or may not be associated with cloudy spa water
conditions. Foamy spa conditions, resulting from the
aeration of soaps formed by body oils and cosmetic residues
reacting with the natural alkalinity of the water, can
detract from optimum water clarity. Most spas and hot tubs
do maintain clear water conditions, with good water clarity.
For those occasional problems, many chemical products and
non-chemical devices are available that help to restore the
water quality to crystal clear. If problems arise, refer to
the Spa Problems Page,
as a source of problem-solving information, broken down into
various categories. Scroll down the page and click on the linked
keywords,
catch phrases
or images, in the archived answers below, to access additional information, on that topic or product.
Do you know what's in
your water? If you're having problems, with
sanitation or water clarity, testing allows you to better
understand the chemistry and determine the cause of the
problem. Once understood, you can select the best
treatment option. Understanding the nature of the
problem, should be step one. For information about
our full selection of testing options, visit our
Test Equipment Store.
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Helpful,
Problem-Solving Information, in a question and
answer format.
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► Spa
Water Has Gone Hazy?
Hi Alan. My spa has developed a milky
white haze in the water. You can still see the bottom
through the hazy water, but in the direct sunlight I don’t
think you will be able to. I have only ever seen this after
a big session, where all sorts of impurities like alcohol
etc. end up in the water. Normally I would simply dump the
water and start again but we are having water restrictions
due to the drought conditions here in Australia and we are
not permitted to refill spa's or pools or even wash our cars
with a hose. It is a 1500 litre outdoor spa and I sanitise
it with bromine tablets in a floating type chlorinator. It
is tiled with dark blue tiles, which make it easier to see
the haze in the water. I regularly use a test kit to test
free chlorine (DPD tablets), pH, alkalinity and acid
demand. I usually keep the bromine level about 5, pH about
7.7 and alkalinity between 80-120.
What happened:
One day about 2 months ago, I tested the water and the
bromine level had jumped well up above 11, so I left the
brominator out for a few weeks until the level had come
down. Then over the next month I progressively closed the
brominator down to maintain the bromine level at about 4.
The brominator was now practically closed but still
maintaining a normal level! Last week I looked at the water
and it looked a little bit hazy, so I ran the filter for
longer than normal. This week the water is really hazy, so I
did a bromine check and it is 0. The pH is about 7.2 and the
alkalinity is about 70ppm. Why the bromine is now so low I
do not know, I suspect that I may have had a bromine tablet
which was very strong and this is what caused the bromine
level to go so uncharacteristically high a few months ago,
and now that that tablet has finally dissolved the
brominator was closed way too far.
What I did:
So I opened the brominator back up to where it was a few
months ago, and shocked the water with about 100g of
chlorine, cleaned the filter and ran the filter for about 6
hours, but with no luck. I found that, when I turned the
blower on, the water foams a lot, which is not normal. I
cleaned the filter again afterwards, but it was still
basically clean. The water is still as milky as it was
before I started. I have never used a water clarifier before
because I have never found them necessary. Do you think
this might be a solution to my problem? And do you think the
100g of chlorine would be enough to make the water safe to
use again? Regards.
Michael, Australia, 1/20/2021
I'm afraid that there is no clear cut answer to the problem,
as you are describing it. However, there are some very good
possibilities. The drought has prevented you from changing
the water. Not knowing how long the water has been in use
and what the calcium hardness level is, leaves open the
possibility that the water is too high in calcium hardness
and/or total dissolved solids. Have the water tested to
determine, if there is a problem with these parameters. The
fact that water worsened, after the bromine level bottomed
out, allows for the possibility that a bacterial slime
caused the cloudiness. The subsequent additions of chlorine
and bromine may have only partially decomposed the bacteria. The fact that your water is
foaming, beyond what you consider normal, points to another
possibility. Heavy bather use can introduce high levels of
body oils and cosmetic residues and this can lead to
cloudiness. In addition, the natural alkalinity of the water
can cause these oils to form "soaps" and this will lead
directly to increased foaming. It is not possible that the bromine tablet was
too strong! A hundred grams of chlorine is a significant
amount in a spa of your size. Even though you are adding
chlorine, you must test for bromine, as the chlorine will
convert to bromine. I would not recommend using the spa
unless the bromine level is within safe limits and has been
there for at least 30 minutes. When using a floating
brominator, try and keep a reasonable level of tablets in
the feeder at all times. Do not allow all the tablets to
dissolve before adding more. This will allow for low levels
of bromine and the possibility of poor sanitation. While
bromine alone can provide good results, having an
ozonator
will make it much easier. It will reduce chemical usage and
allow you to maintain a lower and more comfortable bromine
level. If this
website was helpful, in solving your problem, please
consider joining our
E-Letter Mailing List. You'll receive
E-Letters, with helpful information, new product
updates, suggestions and sale announcements. I hope that I have provided enough information to
point you in the right direction. Good luck.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 1/20/2021
► High
Efficiency Filter Cartridge?
I am debating switching my regular
filter to a disposable micro filter. It was independently
tested and is 94% efficient, at removing particles at 1
micron. With this filter, you are supposed to get rid of
using defoamers, decalcifiers, basically any liquids
normally added to the tub. The filters will last 2-4 months
and are about $30. Less expensive than using all the other
materials. According to the company, it will remove all
particles that can cause damage to the hot tub. Of course,
you still need to have sanitizer in the tub. Just wondering
if you had an info or thoughts on these filters. The spa
manufacturer, in my city, sells all their tubs with these
filters and has for over 3 years. Thanks in advance of your
thought. Cheers
Derek, Canada, 1/14/2020
Depending upon the quality of your source water a high
efficiency filter cartridge can make a significant
difference. It will certainly remove very small particulates
and some microorganisms. It will not make the water in the
spa sanitary and will not
remove salts that are in
true solution. Organic wastes, byproducts, body oils and
other contaminants, can pass right through filters. Better filtration should improve water
quality and reduce the need for some or most of the
accessory chemicals. You will still have to maintain a
proper sanitizer level and keep the pH, TA and calcium
hardness within acceptable ranges. There is no doubt that
this type of filter is better than the standard spa
cartridges, but they can't remove everything. good
water tester can go a long way towards helping to maintain
proper chemistry, which will effect the over water clarity
and quality. The
ColorQ 2X water
analyzers are all-digital, easy to use and eliminate all
color-matching and guesswork. I hope that I
have been helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
1/14/2020
► Cloudy Spa
Water?
Before using the spa, the water is
always clear. After using it for about 20 minutes the water
is cloudy. I use bromine to sanitize. Is that normal? Thank
you.
Josh, Ellenville, NY, 1/15/2009
It is hard to be very specific with so little information.
If your spa had a sanitizer level prior to your entering the
water, it understandable that the water would be clear.
Twenty minutes later, a lot of body oils, dead skin and
sweat has been
introduced into the water. At this point, the sanitizer
level has been reduced or depleted. I suggest that after
using the spa, you test the water. If there is little
sanitizer present, it would a good idea to add a quick
dissolving shock: a non-chlorine product is usually a good
choice. This will help boost the bromine level and help
restore clarity. Are you maintaining a bromine level of 3-5
PPM? Your spa most likely has a cartridge filter and
it has to be cleaned on a regular basis. An easy way to
clean the filter is with THE BLASTER. It is an automatic
cartridge filter cleaner that simply attaches to a garden
hose. I hope that I have been of assistance. Enjoy the spa?
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 1/15/2009
► Remaining
Cloudy?
We use a biguanide chemical system for
our spa. We have had cloudy water for the past few weeks. We
bring in water samples and they are good. We bought a new
filter but the water remains cloudy. Any ideas that can help
fix up our water? Thanks.
Bob E., 10/4/2012
The prolonged use of biguanide can lead to the development
of sanitizer resistant microorganisms, after a few years of
product use. This type
of problem borders on the inevitable and while it might not
be the cause of the current problem, it has to be considered
a possibility. Try adding shock
and a blue clarifier to the spa. If the water fails to
improve, the resistant microorganism possibility becomes
more likely. The only recourse is to drain and clean the spa
and permanently switch to another type of sanitizing. People
that use biguanide frequently do so in order to avoid
obvious chemical sanitizing. If that is the case, you should
consider installing an ozonator and using bromine or a salt
chlorine generator, as a backup. The use of ozone will provide
much better water quality without an overbearing chemical
presence and the use of a backup sanitizer will afford
greater protection. This sanitizing approach is far less
likely to allow the development of a sanitizer-resistant
microorganism. I hope that this information will prove to
be useful. If askalanaquestion.com was helpful in providing
information, please tell your friends and dealers about the
website.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 10/5/2012
► Needs
Clearing Up?
Hey Alan!! You helped me out several
years ago on many occasions with your useful answers
concerning my pool (my giant chemistry set). Now, I have a
spa question - my new giant chemistry set. I have a brand
new 6-seat Spa (370 gallons) and am starting chemicals (a
Bromine system). I’m up on scale & stain and the proper
levels on bromine, pH, Alkalinity and I’ve shocked it once
(basically, all the start-up chemicals). The test strip
looks great. A defoamer product took care of lots of foam
and that’s all good now. The water is still pretty cloudy.
The chemicals have been in about 3 days. There’s no mention
of an algaecide or flocking agents or anything like that on
the spa side like I use on my pool. So how do I clear up the
water? Thanks! Warm and cloudy.
John M., 11/11/2012
Algaecides are not normally used in a spa, unless the unit
is left uncovered and there are recurring algae problems.
Flock is not something I go out of
my way to recommend, even in a pool. It is possible that
water chemistry factors have conspired to cause the
cloudiness: check the pH, TA and calcium hardness level. If
everything checks out right and the bromine levels have
remained normal, I would try an keep the bromine levels
closer to 5 PPM. This type of chemical can help digest
organic debris and wastes that might be contributing to the
problem. I hope that this information will prove helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 11/11/2012
► Pink Spa
Water Color?
My new Spa (about 8 weeks old) has
developed a pinkish color (very faint). I am wondering what
could have caused it. The alkaline and pH balance is just
fine (maybe pH could be a bit lower). And my bromine level
is very low. I've got several tablets floating around for
about 1 week, but can't seem to bring it up to the right
level yet. I tried to shock the water and also added a
couple of capfuls of Water Clarifier. It seems to have
helped a lot, but the pink is still slightly there. Any idea
how to bring up the bromine level, and get rid of the
pinkish color forever? PS. I live in N. California. If that
makes a difference. Thanks.
Smeeta G., California, 10/7/2015
While it possible that some combination of trace minerals is
responsible for the discoloration, it is more likely that
this is a bacterial problem, caused by inadequate
sanitation. I base this on the fact that you are unable to
maintain a satisfactory bromine level and are using
slow-dissolving bromine
tablets. There's nothing wrong with the bromine, but it
doesn't play catch-up very well. You must keep adding shock,
until you get a bromine level that remains in the 3-5 PPM
range for an overnight period. Thereafter, keep the bromine
dispenser as full as possible and use shock to quickly boost
the level or restore it after periods of usage. A
Salt Chlorine
Generator will make the task of spa sanitizing much
easier and reduce the overall chemical usage. We have
several models, that require no installation and some are
smart enough, to only produce chlorine, when it is actually
needed. I hope that I have been helpful. Enjoy the
spa.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 10/7/2015
► Biofilm
Accumulations?
My spa was drained and shut down for
about 6 weeks waiting on a repairman. After refilling it I
noticed stuff floating in the water after turning the jets
off. It almost looks like large pieces of dead skin. I guess
it is some kind of algae or pipe scum. I have drained and
cleaned it over 8 or 9 times, using a shop-vac to suck out
all the jets, I have used a "slime" product about 5 times. I
have let the jets run for hours on end trying to filter it
out, and I still keep getting this crap as soon as I refill
it and turn the jets on. Could you please tell me what I can
get to get rid of this "pipe scum." It is breaking me up in
water bills and chemical bills. I've not been able to get in
my spa for over a year now. PLEASE HELP my family and I are
begging. Thanks.
Todd R., Burgin, Kentucky, 11/18/2009
It sounds like you have an accumulation of dead
microorganisms in your lines. I suggest that you boost the
chlorine or bromine level to 10 PPM and keep it elevated
until all of this biofilm has been decomposed. Keep the
filter operating and maintain proper water chemistry. Once
enough chlorine has been added to decompose all of the
debris, you should be able to resume normal operations. For
free chlorine testing, I suggest using LaMotte a
ColorQ 2X Digital
Water Tester, as it provides the right kind of
information, while eliminating color-matching and guesswork. To better assure proper overall spa
water chemistry, visit a pool/spa store that has a very
reliable, professional lab such as a
WaterLink SpinTouch Lab,
rather than a less accurate test kit or strip reader. I hope that I have been
of help.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 11/18/2009
► Suffering
With Scale?
We live in a hard water area. I've had
problems with my spa due to scale forming. Besides the scale
deposits, I've had white flakes shooting out of the returns.
Any suggestions?
J. H., Mesa, AZ, 5/6/2007
You could fill you spa with soft water, that is if you have
one. Some manufacturers recommend against using soften
water, but if you adjust all of the spa water chemistry
parameters - especially the calcium hardness, pH and total
alkalinity - to within normal suggested ranges, there should
be no problems. You could add a calcium sequestering agent
and try to keep the pH closer to 7.2 and the TA, if
possible, within 80-120 PPM. A spa water magnetizer or
magnetic water conditioner is another possibility. This
strap-on device has been reported to help reduce spa calcium
scaling problems, as well as improve some other spa water
parameters. I hope that I have given you some options. Good
luck.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 5/6/2007
► Looking
Bad?
We were gone for the entire summer and
the spa was left with only a bromine floater. It now looks
like yuck! What do you suggest? Thanks for the help.
Ken G., Fayetteville, NC, 9/7/2008
I suggest that you start draining the water and do some
rinsing with a garden hose. Clean out the filter and
replace. Refill with
fresh water and add a double or triple dose of a quick
dissolving chlorine or non-chlorine shock. Make sure that
the pH is 7.2-7.6. Keep the Free Chlorine level high and the
filter operating. Retest frequently and add more shock, as
required. Eventually, the chlorine will destroy all of the
"yuck" that developed on the walls, in the plumbing, in the
filter and in the nooks and crannies. When things clear up,
empty the spa and rinse off everything in sight. Now, you
are ready to start from scratch. With a little time and
effort, you should end up with crystal clear spa water. I hope that I have been helpful. Good luck.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 9/7/2008
► The
Spa Has The Blues?
We recently brought a home with an
existing spa. It looked okay, water clear and everything
when we moved in. Two weeks after we moved in we added some
chlorine and pH chemicals that we purchased from a local
dealer. Within a week the water was extremely blue, there is
sediment on the bottom of the spa that is blue and our
fingernails turned blue after getting in. (We had not
noticed all of this before getting in the spa, our blue
fingernails alerted us to the unusual color). The local
dealer is telling us that it is the heater and because of
the imbalance of pH our heater is about to "tank" and the
blue is from the copper tube. This spa and heater are less
than two years old. Could this dealer be right. What action
should we take? Will draining the spa and changing the
filters help us? It appears that my grey hot tub is now
stained blue, is there anything that will take the blue off
the spa liner? Will our spa ever be safe for us to enter
after it is cleaned and restarted with new chemicals.
Cathy G., 3/17/2016
The dealer is correct! The cause of the problem was
corrosion to the heater, that resulted from low pH
conditions and
the presence of chlorine or bromine.
Hopefully, the heater was not fatally destroyed. Fill the
spa up and make sure that there is no chlorine present or at
most a few tenths of a PPM. Add 1/2-1 pound
MetalTrap Stain Remover,
to the water and make sure that the pH is about 6.8. Allow
to recirculate. Add more MetalTrap Stain Remover, as needed, until the
discoloration has been dissolved. Drain and thoroughly clean
the spa. Refill and add a double dose of a quality metal treatment,
such as Liquid MetalTrap, which
is a true chelating agent and is effective over a broad pH
range.
Resume normal spa sanitizing and make sure that the pH
remains in the 7.2-7.6 range. Discuss how the spa was being
sanitized with the dealer, as this might have been part of
the problem. I hope that this information will prove
helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 3/18/2016
► From Clear
To Cloudy Water?
I added a product that is supposed to
lock in the pH of a spa and make it more stable. I followed
the directions, but I ended up with very hazy spa water. The
dealer said that my pH must have been too high to start.
Some help would be appreciated. Thanks.
Bill D., Celebration, FL, 2/5/2009
While it is possible that the pH was too high to start with,
the real cause of the problem is most likely due to the
natural hardness of the water. These products should not be
used if the calcium hardness is above 300 PPM. Even at
levels between 200-300 PPM, clarity problems can result,
depending upon the pH and total alkalinity. Personally, I
suggest that you do not use such a product, if the calcium
hardness of the spa water is above 200 PPM. Your filter
should be able to remove the particles. The addition of one
of those "Blue" Clarifiers should help speed up the removal
of the suspended particles and help eliminate the spa water
cloudiness problem. These liquid clarifiers can be good
short term solutions. After the water is clear, thoroughly
clean the filter, with a hose. An even easier way to clean
the filter is with THE BLASTER. It is an automatic cartridge
filter cleaner that simply attaches to a garden hose.
Afterwards, you might want to soak the cartridge in a
solution made with a Spa Filter Cleaner. The best products
to use are acidic cleaners formulated with low-foaming
detergents. If the walls and bottom are coated white, you
might be better off draining and cleaning the spa and
starting over. In the future, you should stabilize or "lock
in" your pH by maintaining the total alkalinity at 80-120
PPM. In addition, you might want to add a dose of
Liquid
Metal Trap, in order to help keep calcium and other minerals
from precipitating and causing cloudiness or discoloration.
The pH Buffer Products work very well in soft water areas.
However, in hard water areas, there is a possibility of
causing a cloudy, hazy or dull spa water problem. I hope
that I have been helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 2/5/2009
► Hard Water
Causing Cloudiness - Can Use Softened Water?
I'm hoping you can help me with this
one. I have had a hot tub for three months. The water tends
to go cloudy after a few weeks. We've changed the water
twice already as a result, thinking it was full of too many
dissolved solids. (We did use it an awful lot in the first
month!) With this third filling of water, we had a
malfunction of our temperature gauge, and so left the tub
alone for a week while we waited for a repairman. During
that week I watched the water go cloudy, despite us not
bathing in it or adding any chemicals. The pH tends to drift
high (to 7.8-8.2), and the TA is always high (240 ppm at
least) - we live in an area with lots of dissolved minerals,
including calcium (always over 1000 ppm total hardness). So,
I began wondering if some of those minerals were coming out
of solution and that was causing the cloudiness. Googling
'saturation' and 'hot tub' brought me to your website and
the Langelier index. But now I'm stumped. It seems that I
need to bring down the TA and the pH. How do I bring down
the TA? And 2nd question: Our hot tub company tells us to
fill the tub with city water, rather than the softened water
we use in our house, so the dishes and laundry don't get
covered with deposits. I wonder, if we should perhaps do
half and half? I'd appreciate your thoughts.
Sophie, F., Guelph, Ontario, Canada, 4/12/2007
By all means use the softened water! Your water is very
hard and could contain dissolved metals. Otherwise, you
could continuously be in a heap of trouble. After the spa is
filled take a sample into a local dealer for a water
analysis. If you use 10% city water and 90% softened water,
you should have to do very little. You might not need even
need to adjust the calcium hardness, to compensate for the
use for softened water. Test the water to be sure and
adjust, if necessary. Check the pH and TA and adjust, as
necessary. Once done, it should be treated like any other
spa. The dealer was wrong in his thinking. Using mostly
softened water will allow you to obtain a proper hardness
level (150-200 PPM) and avoid, cloudiness and scaling and
filtration issues. This lower hardness should avoid cloudy
issues, so long as proper sanitation and filtration are
maintained. A good, reliable water tester will help keep
your chemistry in the right ranges, improving water quality,
bather comfort and helping to protect your heater. I
suggest an all-digital
ColorQ Tester. I hope that this
information will help clarify the subject.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 4/12/2007
►
Floating White Particles?
We recently purchased a home which has an above ground spa.
Unfortunately we were not left any reference materials
related to the spa. It has been cleaned, but we are still
seeing small black and viscous white particles floating
throughout the water, no one has used the spa since we moved
in. I assumed that the filter would take care of this, but
the particles are still there. Is there something that we
can do about this as we REALLY want to use our spa. Thank
you for any advice that you can offer.
Angela G.,
5/8/2009
What you are describing is the flaking off of scale and
copper corrosion deposits from the heater coil. The white
particles are calcium carbonate and the dark ones are
probably oxidized copper. I suggest that you add a dose of a
calcium scale treatment and a quality metal treatment, such
as Liquid MetalTrap, which is a
true chelating agent. These
products should help end the problem within a few days. Have
the water tested for copper and calcium hardness, as this
will provide insight into the problem. If the problems
continue, you may want to do the following. Allow the
chlorine level to zero out. Lower the pH to about 6.0 and
keep recirculating the water. When there seems to be no more
white particles, drain and clean the spa. Refill, add a dose
of a calcium scale treatment and resume normal operation.
Depending upon the type of filter that you have, calcium
minerals can be passing right through the filter. I hope
that this information proves helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 5/9/2009
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additional charge, based on
quantity and destination.
Most products can be
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