► Can't Clear It Up?

I can't seem to get my problems resolved at my pool store so here goes.  After opening up the pool the water was green and some brown yuk in it falling in from the cover.  The filter going, shocked it, got it all in balance but was still green after running pump continuously.  I took a sample in to be tested, it's balanced but still green.  They gave me black algae stuff told me to pour it all around the pool, brown stuff should come to the top, vacuum, backwash and shock.  The brown stuff never happened, I did the rest, still green, no green stuff comes out in the backwash either.  I took another sample in yesterday, my free chlorine is 10, everything else in balance, still green and cloudy.  They sold me another bottle of black algae killer and this time told me to run some down the filter, turn it off for 2 hrs then start back up, did that, this morning, still green and cloudy.  I'm starting to feel it's in the sand filter and it's not filtering properly.  I have some filter cleaner stuff that goes down the skimmer, I thought I would try.  If you have any suggestions, please let me know.  This is getting expensive and frustrating.  Thank you.

Nancy, 5/6/2003

It would be presumptuous of me to say that it is your sand filter that is at the centerof the green pool water problem.  But, I can think it!  You seem to have added some premium algaecide and with a Free Chlorine level that high, algae should not be a problem.  So let's concentrate on the likely cause:  the filter!  Sand filters can become channeled.  In essence, that means the water is not being filtered, but is merely being recirculated.  If the pressure of the filter is not rising over time, that could be a sign of a channeled filter bed.  Sand filters should not be backwashed frequently: usually only when the pressure is too high.  If the sand in the filter has not been changed in recent memory, it might be a good idea to start there.  Today, there is filter media that can be used instead of sand.  Zeobrite is a natural mineral product that replaces sand and can greater improve the water clarity and quality.    I hope that these recommendations work out for you.  Good luck.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 5/6/2003

 

► The Road To Pool Water Clarity?

Hi, my name is Sharon and I'm from St. Charles, MO.  We opened our pool at the beginning of June and I have not yet been able to see the bottom of it due to cloudy water.  The pool is 27 ft in diameter and about 4.5 ft. deep.  We've had the pool for 4 years and I have never had this kind of problem.  We started with dark green water so was told by the pool store to put in a bottle of algaecide followed by 4 gallons of liquid chlorine.  This made the water a lighter green so I was advised to repeat the procedure.  Again, I put in a bottle of algaecide followed by 4 gallons of liquid chlorine.  The water was then a light blue green so I was advised to vacuum and backwash repeated which I did.  I finally got to a light blue cloudy state a few days ago and went back to the pool store with a water sample.  I was told the chemicals were all at the right levels and was sold a treatment that is suppose to clear cloudy pools fast.  I was told to put in 2 bags of shock and after a few hours to put in 1/2 bottle of the treatment then wait a few hours.  The pool looked slightly better so I added the rest of the bottle.  The water is much better than before, but I still cannot see the bottom.  Even thought the pool store told me the chemical levels were fine, my test strips have indicated 0 free chlorine ever since we opened the pool.  After doing my own research on the internet, I realized the pH level needs to be higher in order for the raise the free chlorine level.  Therefore, I purchased a pH Plus yesterday and added it last night until I got the pH to read 7.2.  The alkalinity was also good, so I added 2 bags of  shock before I went to bed last night.  I got up this morning and nothing changed so I added the last 2 gallons of liquid chlorine I had at home about 20 minutes ago.  My internet research also tells me I may need to start adding the blue polisher I have to help clear the water, but the bottle indicates to wait 12 hours after shocking, which means I can't do anything else until this evening.  In the meantime, your website gave me the last bit of hope for clear water this summer.  Please share with me your thoughts on my water problem and any recommendations you may have at this point.  I really want to swim since I'm on vacation this week.  Oh,, by the way now they're calling for rain today so I feel especially desperate to get the cloudy water under control before it takes a turn for the worse.  I look forward to hearing from you soon and have a Happy 4th of July!

Sharon B., St. Charles, MO, 7/4/2006

It can be frustrating, having added a lot of chlorine and still no free chlorine reading.  If there is improvement in the water's appearance, at least it indicates that you are getting close.  Evidently, the chlorine demand of your pool was so high that you have not yet added enough.  The presence of phosphates and/or nitrates might also be accelerating algae growth and increasing chlorine consumption.  Have the water tested for phosphates, as it possible to treat this problem.  Make sure that the pH is 7.2-7.6.  Higher pH readings will lower chlorine effectiveness, as will stabilizer levels over 150 PPM.  Your low pH was not really part of the problem.  I suggest that you add the liquid chlorine or quick dissolving shock, about a pound/gallon per 5,000 gallons, until the free chlorine level is over 5 PPM.  Don't drag it out!  The longer it takes, the more product will be required.  Keep it there until the problem is under control.  You have green water because the sanitizer level was inadequate and algae took hold.   Check the overall water chemistry as well.  Make sure that you are testing for FREE CHLORINE.  For free chlorine testing, I suggest using LaMotte Insta-Test strips, as they provide the right kind of information.  Go to:  www.lamotte.com    To better assure proper overall pool water chemistry, visit a pool store that has a very reliable, professional lab such as a WaterLink or Pinpoint system, rather than a less accurate test kit or strip reader.  To locate a dealer near you, go to:  www.lamotte.com/pages/pool/expdeal/index.html The blue clarifier should be added.  The reason for the wait is that you want the shock to kill the algae and allow the clarifier to remove it by filtration.  I hope that this information will prove helpful.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 7/5/2006

Thank you so much for your response.  I am going to start hitting the pool heavily with liquid chlorine.  I've been told by a neighbor that we need to put 8-10 gallons of liquid chlorine in to shock it real good.  Do you think that sound sufficient?

Sharon B., St. Charles, MO 7/6/2006

If it works, it was the right amount.  You can always add more - you can't take out.  Start with four gallons, give it an hour and see where you are.  Good luck.

Sincerely.   Alan Schuster, 7/6/2006

Thank you again.  I thought you might me interested to hear about the status at this point.  I put in 8 gallons of liquid chlorine night before last around 10:30 p.m. and checked it before I went to bed at 12:30 p.m.  There was an above average free chlorine reading for the first time since we opened the pool so I was pretty happy.  However, when I checked the water at 8:00 a.m. yesterday morning, the free chlorine reading was zero.  This amazed me.  Therefore, last night at 11:15 p.m. I put in 8 more gallons of liquid chlorine and got even a higher reading of free chlorine than I got the night before.  I didn't want to take any chances on losing momentum so I got up every 2 hours last night to check the reading of chlorine.  The water actually held a high free chlorine level all night even up until 8:00 a.m. this morning without me having to add any more chlorine.  All the chemicals levels look good this morning and the water is blue but cloudy.   I went ahead and added about 6 oz. of Clear Blue to a bucket of water and put it in this morning.  Do you think this should work or do I need to add more Clear Blue.  Any other suggestions you have are greatly appreciated.  I'm almost there and can possibly even swim tomorrow (my last day of vacation).  Thanks again for your help.  I will recommend you before I ever let anyone go to pool stores and get the run around like I did.  Take care.

Sharon B., St. Charles, MO, 7/8/2006

You're close.  At this point the water should clear up.  How quickly may depend on the efficiency of your filter.  Adding the clarifier should help.  Add another dose tomorrow.  If you have a sand filter, give some thought to Zeobrite sand filter replacement media, as it will make a clear difference.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 7/8/2006

I just had to let you know that we finally can see the bottom of our pool.  Over a 7-10 day period (while I was on vacation and had the time) I put in a total of 24 gallons of liquid chlorine.  Now I just need to vacuum a little debris and do whatever it take to keep the water clear.  How much chlorine do you recommend putting in per week to keep the levels adequate! Any maintenance system you tell me about would be appreciated.  We bought the pool used so never had "new owner instructions".  As far as Zeobrite, my husband and I discussed replacing the sand with it next year before we open the pool.  Thanks again for your help.  I will put positive feedback on your website if you can direct me where to go.  I really want other people to know you're out there and I really would like to send you something to compensate for your time.  Do you have an address where I can send you a check?  Take care.

Sharon B., St. Charles, MO, 7/14/2006

You already have paid me back!  No one has ever offered to pay for the services of the website, before.  There is no set amount of chlorine to be added.  It depends on the weather, temperature, number of bathers, kids and other factors.  If you use a trichlor feeder, avoid using dichlor as a shock, as it will cause the stabilizer level to rise ever quicker.  Keep tabs on the water chemistry.  Read the labels to know what you are buying and adding.  If you would like a better and easier way to add chlorine, you might consider a salt chlorine generator.  Enjoy the pool.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 7/15/2006

The Circulator:  circulation boosting accessory

► Better Circulation Means Better Results?

I am considering ordering The Circulator return nozzle circulation booster.  My question is does it really make a difference?   I will say that we just painted our pool with Ultra Poly One Coat and it looks great.  Hope it holds up as long as they say it will.  Thanks.

Jeff P., Paducah, KY, 5/14/2007

The Circulator really makes a positive difference.  The water just doesn't simply go straight ahead, it spirals ahead and down, for more complete circulation.  This aids in water clarity, heat distribution and sanitizing.  No more dead spots.  And it couldn't be easier to install.  For more information and to see a video, just click on the logo to the right.  Glad to hear about the painting going so well.  I have no doubt that the Ultra Poly One Coat will provide years of excellent service, as I have only heard good things about the product.  Enjoy the summer.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 5/14/2007

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► Need Better Circulation?

We have a soft-sided, vinyl pool that holds about 4000 gallons.  Every time the kids jump in, the pool clouds up.  My free and total chlorine and pH are good. When I rinse the filter out it washes out sort of dirt.  I think the problem is sediments on the bottom, which cause cloudy water when disturbed.  The filter doesn't seem to help with the sediment and my vacuum (garden hose type) is useless, for anything but leaves.  Got a good suggestion or two?

Mavis L. Columbia, SC, 6/1/200

You have a filter that is barely effective.  When the kids use the pool, they stir up silt that has accumulated on the bottom.  The filter can remove only what enters the system.  By adding The Circulator, a circulation boosting accessory, you can get more of the silt removed and the water will steadily improve.  The Circulator was originally designed for inground and standard above ground pools.  However, now there is an adaptor that allows it to be used with soft-sided pools, from the leading manufacturer.  Adding a weekly dose of a Blue Clarifier, should help, as well.  I have been told that The Circulator can make a huge improvement in water quality, in pools like yours, in particular.  I hope that this information will prove helpful.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 6/1/2009

 

► D.E. In The Pool?

I just got a new pool liner installed, filled it up over night and when I setup my DE filter and added the DE it got cloudy. I've added my shock, as I usually do, as well as the proper amount of DE. I've done nothing different this year, then the last 6 seasons. Why is my water cloudy?  Could the DE have been pushed into the pool, bypassing the filter into the pool? Or is it just that the filter must run for a while to do its job?

Scott, NYC, 5/18/2003

The evidence seems to point to D.E. getting into the pool.  The cause is probably mechanical:  something broken or not put together properly.  You might have to take the filter apart.  Try using a dose of a quality "Blue" Clarifier to help remove the D.E.  from the pool water.  I hope that I have been helpful.  Enjoy the season.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 5/19/2003

► Cloudy But Better?

I am in the middle of a battle against algae.   Happily, I am winning.  I had to add a lot of shock - the 1 pound bags of calcium hypochlorite.  As the algae is being killed off, the water now seems to be cloudy.  What should I do to keep everything on track?  Thanks a lot.   Sincerely.

Howie L., Peabody, MA, 7/23/2004

You might have two causes for the cloudy, hazy pool water problem.   One obvious reason is that as you are killing this algae, you are leaving behind dead algae and organic debris.  This can be dealt with very effectively, with the addition of a dose of a quality "Blue" Clarifier.  You may have to follow with a second dose, after all the algae is dead.  An automatic pool cleaner would be a big help in removing the fine particles that settle to the bottom.  In addition, the use of an automatic pool cleaner will improve the circulation on the bottom and in the corners and will make algae control easier. The shock that you are using tends to raise the pH and contains calcium. TEST THE WATER FOR pH, TOTAL ALKALINITY, AND CALCIUM HARDNESS.  You might find that your pH and TA are too high.  These factors can compound any potential calcium problem.  If the calcium level is too high, add a quality Mineral Treatment to help deal with that factor.  You really didn't provide many details.  It is possible that your filter is not working properly or that the cycle is not long enough.  You might want to browse through the archives on those topics.  I hope that I have been helpful. 

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 7/23/2004

► Hazy And Cloudy Water?

The Blaster - Automatic Filter Cartridge Cleaner

► Checked And Rechecked?

Hopefully you have the answer I am looking for!  I have had my pool for 10+ years, it is cleaned, sanitized, winterized and vacuumed faithfully.  I have never had many issues with it until about 3 years ago.  I thought it was an algae problem, but have tried various solutions and can not get rid of it.  If I vacuum the pool it looks fine, water is clear, all tests read fine.  After running the filter for a short period of time, I get sediment on the bottom.  We have a sand filter and everything in that has been replaced and/or checked.  The sand is replaced on a yearly basis.  Since this problem occurred it seems to get progressively worse every year.  If you move on the floor of the pool it dissipates, it does not feel like sand, it is much finer. Everyone thinks I’m crazy, but I can’t keep my pool clean and am obsessed with fixing the problem.  Can you help?  Thank you.

Obsessed, 4/16/2004

It is called silt:  micro-fine particles that can pass right through a sand filter and slowly settle to the bottom.  It doesn't take much to cause the sediment to float upwards.  The changing of the sand yearly is not necessarily a good idea, as it can reduce filter efficiency.  A sand filter works best when the spaces, between the grains, have been reduced in size.  A better solution would be to use Zeobrite:  a sand replacement filter media that is much more efficient than ordinary filter sand.  For more information go to:  www.zeotechcorp.com  Another way to eliminate silt is with the use of a robotic pool cleaner.  This automated pool cleaner contains a micro-filter, which can clean the bottom of debris and silt.  It is good practice to operate the filter during periods of greatest bather activity, as this will help the filter remove the silt that has been lifted off the bottom.  I hope that I have been helpful.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 4/16/2004

► Milky White Swimming Pool Water?

Hello, I'll try to make this quick cause I know you get tons of e mail. I have an above ground 18', vinyl liner. I had the water tested by a pool place, did exactly as their results instructed me to, which was to add about 5 lbs of pH plus. Alkalinity, pH and free chlorine levels are now good, but the water has remained VERY cloudy, not green cloudy but white and milky. This is bad pool water!  I have cleaned out the cartridge several times, the milky water will not clear up. Thanks.

D. B., Florida, 3/2/2004

A little more information would have allowed me to focus directly on the possibilities.  Adding all that pH increaser must have been necessary because the pH and TA were very low. At low pH readings, minerals such as calcium are more soluble.  It is probable that your milky, white pool water is due to calcium precipitating out of solution, as the pH and TA were raised from their low points. If your calcium hardness reading is above 400 PPM, this is a very likely possibility. This sounds like a pool opening and, therefore, algae could have been a problem. Dead algae can pass right through some filters, especially sand filters that have become channeled.  I suggest that you add a quality clarifier, such as the AquaPill #1 Clarifier. This type of product can coagulate dead algae and debris and make it easier to remove by filtration. If you have a sand filter, I suggest that you consider using Zeobrite sand replacement filter media, in place of ordinary filter sand and reap the benefits of much more efficient filtering.  With the pool water chemistry in balance, improving the filter efficiency seems to be the necessary course of action - whether the problem is due to calcium or dead algae.  You will find more references to this type of problem on the page devoted to "Cloudy Pool Water".  I hope that the information will prove helpful.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 3/2/2004

► Safe To Swim?

I have an 18' x 42" above ground vinyl pool with the thru-the-wall cartridge filter.  I've added chlorine, shock, alkalinity, pH, algaecide and stabilizer.  I've vacuumed the pool and changed the filter.  The chemicals are at their proper levels, but despite all this, the water is still cloudy.  This has been going on for 4 weeks now.  Is it safe to let my kids swim in cloudy water?  What else can I do about the cloudiness problem and attain crystal-clear water.  HELP!  Thank you.

Terry, 6/28/2003

If you are able to maintain a 1-3 PPM level of Free Chlorine, it is likely that the pool water is in acceptably sanitary condition.  However, cloudy water creates a potentially dangerous situation.  Suppose a swimmer was in trouble and you weren't able to see him on the bottom?  It has happened:  I was considered as an expert witness, in such a case.  In the interest of safety, you need to get the water clear.  If the chemistry is right, the problem may be that the filter is not able to remove particles, as fine as those present or that it is not being operated correctly or for long enough periods.  The filter cartridge needs to be cleaned or replaced.  The pressure could be too high, indicating that the water recirculation is poor.  Cartridge filters should be cleaned often:  weekly in most cases.  THE BLASTER is an automatic filter cleaner that attaches to your garden hose and makes cartridge cleaning simple and quick.  Try this.  The first thing in the morning - before the pool is used - vacuum thoroughly.  This will help remove silt that has settle to the bottom.  Otherwise it will be stirred up by swimmers and cloud the cloud.  In addition, I would add a dose of a quality "Blue" Clarifier after the vacuuming and keep the filter operating for at least 6-8 hours, after the addition.  This type of product can help coagulate fine particles for easier removal.  One factor of pool water chemistry that you did not bring up is calcium hardness.  The calcium hardness can affect the clarity of the water and should be checked into.  An effective way to deal with silt deposits is with the use of a robotic pool cleaner.  These devices cover the whole pool and act as a second roving filter to help remove fine silty deposits.  More information on this factor can be found in the archives.  I hope that this information will prove helpful.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 6/28/2003

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► Evil Cloud?

PLEASE HELP ME ALAN.  Love your site. I recently took on the task of cleaning and reopening my mother's pool for her. She has an aboveground 27 x 48 round pool, and when I arrived on the scene, there were endless amounts of dirt, muck and mire in the bottom of the pool, creating algae and other problems in nightmarish proportions. I think she had someone take the cover off for her, and it was either done too early in the season or leaves and detritus on the top of the cover were allowed to drop into the pool.  At any rate, after numerous attempts to filter and chemically treat the problem, I convinced mother to let me drain the pool. It was drained and shop-vac'd until there was not a speck of water remaining. I hand scrubbed every inch of the liner with algaecide and cleaners, and rinsed and scrubbed and siphoned and shop vac'd until the entire thing was spotless. We're talking days and days and nights and mornings of work, all the while thinking to myself "Mom's gonna have the cleanest, clearest pool in the entire state."  So I got it spotless, dry, and immaculate, and spent another day and a half filling it. All was right with the world. We had the sand filter medium replaced, and once the pool was filled and the filter had run for 24 hours, you were looking at the cleanest, purest water you could ever hope for.  Following the manufacturer's directions, I began adding chlorine until the level tested correctly.  The next instruction was to test for pH, and it tested very low. So I added pH increaser (sodium bicarbonate) according to the package instructions (in this case, approx. 1.5 lbs for a 16k+ gallon pool).  I cannot tell you the horror.  The chemical spread across the pool like a low dark cloud: it was like something out of a science fiction movie.  It swirled around the bottom and covered the entire pool bottom in an evil milky haze.  It rose, and within 30 minutes turned the entire labor of love into a big soup of dirty, yucky, cloudy pool water.  I wanted to cry.  I have tried everything in the last 24 hours to correct the problem.  More chlorine to no effect.  I purchased clarifier and added that to the system.  Again, no effect.  Please tell me what I did wrong here, or what I can do to fix this.  My mother's 60th birthday is only a day or two away, and I wanted nothing more than to take care of this issue for her.  Any advice you could give would be truly, sincerely appreciated.

Tom, 6/27/2003

Your pool problem started out as algae and lots of dirt and muck.  You dealt with that!  The problem that you now have may be unrelated to the original situation.  Adding pH increaser (sodium carbonate-not sodium bicarbonate) increased the pH of the water.  At low pH values the water can be irritating, but it can keep minerals in the water more soluble.  Raising the pH likely caused some precipitation to occur.  It is possible that your calcium hardness and/or total alkalinity were too high and raising the pH caused the cloudy pool water problem.  Adding the chlorine, if this was the problem, accomplished nothing useful.  In fact, it may have further increased the pH.  You need to have the water tested for pH, TA and calcium hardness.  You may have to add some mineral treatment to deal with the calcium hardness, if it is too high.  After the water analysis, there will be a better understanding of the problem.  Possibly, the filtration is not adequate.  Make sure the filter pressure is in the recommended range.  I hope that this information will prove helpful.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 6/28/2003

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► Better On Other Side Of Fence?

My neighbor and I both installed new above ground pools in our backyards this spring.  His pool is crystal clear while mine is cloudy.  I also seem to get more build up of green scummy stuff on the bottom which is very difficult to clean up!  He uses chlorine, while I use bromine.  Both of our pools see very hot direct sunlight (currently, my pool temperature is 85ºF).  Should I switch to chlorine?

Envious, 7/3/0/2007

You are not going to like this!  Your neighbor's pool has cyanuric acid to help protect the chlorine, against the Sun's UV rays, and make it last longer.  Your bromine pool cannot be protected against the Sun's UV.  Cyanuric acid will not help.  You must add more bromine or chlorine to maintain any given level.  If you add chlorine, it will convert to bromine.  The only way to avoid this is to eliminate the bromides from the water.  To do that, you must drain the pool.  Draining a pool is not without some risk, so I suggest that this be thought out.  There are advantages to bromine, such as less odor and irritation, but you will use more chemicals.  The algae problem is the proof.  To help get by with less bromine, I suggest adding the FROG Mineral Sanitizer.  It will help control algae, if the bromine levels falls.  Otherwise, you get algae.  I suggest that you add the liquid chlorine or quick dissolving shock, about a pound/gallon per 5,000 gallons, until the bromine level is over 5 PPM.  Don't drag it out!  The longer it takes, the more product will be required.  Keep it there until the problem is under control.  You have green, cloudy, murky water because the sanitizer level was inadequate and algae took hold.   Check the overall water chemistry as well.  Have the water tested for phosphates and nitrates, as their presence could promote algae growth and increase bromine usage.  Poor circulation can make algae growth more likely.  You might consider adding THE CIRCULATOR.  The easy to install device will eliminate the dead spots that can promote algae growth.  I hope this will help you clear things up.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 7/20/2007

 

► Won't Clear Up?

I had a problem with algae - nothing special - and I treated the pool with an algaecide and some chlorine shock.  The algae disappeared within a day.  The water however was cloudy and hazy.  I tested the pH and total alkalinity and the calcium hardness and they seemed to be OK.  But the water is still cloudy.  It is a 15,000 gallon above the ground pool with a sand filter.  Can you suggest something?   Should I Floc the pool?

Jerry E., Battle Creek, MI, 7/18/2003

If your water was clear before the algae developed, it is likely that the cloudy water is from dead algae and organic debris.   Dead algae can be so small it can pass right through some filters.  If that is the case, the addition of one of those "Blue" Clarifiers should to the trick.   These products are long polymers, with many electrically charged receptive sites along the polymer.  Dead algae and debris are attracted to these sites and the result is a formation of larger  particles of dead algae and other suspended matter.  This treatment process is called coagulation and the larger particles are more easily removed by the filter.  Add a dose of the "Blue: Clarifier and filter continuously.  Repeat the next day, if necessary.  Resume a normal filter cycle, after the pool water clarity problem has been solved.  Thereafter, use weekly or at the first signs of a hazy or cloudy pool water problem.   These products can help improve the efficiency of the filter and are a much better choice than floc. If your problems continue to recur or if you are going to replace the sand anyway, you might consider replacing the sand with Zeobrite sand replacement filter media.  It is far more efficient that ordinary filter sand and could make all the difference.  Another way to improve filtration is with a robotic pool cleaner equipped with a micro-filter bag.  It actually filters as it vacuums and it very effective.  I hope that I have been helpful.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 7/18/2003

 

► Effect Of Temperature?

I have read a lot  from your Q and A section on cloudy water and I think I have found the answer to my question. But, I have one more. What is the effect of water temp in relation to chemical usage?  I prefer my water temp to be on the high side, somewhere in the high 80's. What do I need to do if I maintain these high temps.  Thanks in advance. 

Dale, 7/17/2005

It's really a good basic question!  The main effect of higher water temperatures is to make algae grow faster, if allowed to get a foothold, and to make chlorine react faster.  You should keep the Free Chlorine level at 1-3 PPM.  As water temperatures rise, more chlorine may be needed to accomplish this.  Enjoy the summer!

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 7/17/2005

 

► From Bad To Worse?

I just found your site tonight. I hope you can help me. I had rusty stains on my liner and used Ascorbic acid after I tested with Vit C tablets in my skimmer.  The pool store first gave me a metal remover that did nothing.  The ascorbic acid worked great and the water turned rusty red, as the stains left the vinyl liner then went crystal clear then cloudy during the 48 hours the pool place said to run the filter.  I told her what happened and she gave me FLOC and it turned it more milky white. She said that I did not let it sit unfiltered long enough, I left it 9 hours. She tested the water and told me to add 4 cups of pH rise and a bag of Bromine shock. To stop the filter, which I did, now it has sat for 18 hours. OH, I did change the DE and wash the fingers, this morning because the pressure kept going up on the gauge and the return was weak the night before when she told me to filter the FLOC for 6 hours after adding. It appeared to clump the DE. It is still milky. I have a children's birthday party this Sunday, today is now Friday. I have been working on this since last Sunday. It a big bowl of chemical soup now.  I thought to change the DE and repeat several times if necessary the next two days. What should I do, I am frustrated beyond description. My pool is 4X18 above ground with a propane pool heater (suspect rust entered pool from heater).  If you can help me I would really appreciate it, the pool girl just keeps giving me more and more products to try I am starting to think she doesn't know, is guessing.  She said to soak the fingers in Vit C, when done and a friend said to soak them in muriatic acid...help what should I do to clear the water, clean the pump...? Appreciate any help.

Diann B., 8/12/2005

Floc is not one of my favorite products.  With a DE filter you should almost never need it!  Never!  To make matters worse, it was not used properly.  Is she guessing?  I would think that is putting it mildly.  Test the pH and raise it to 8.0 or higher ASAP.  If you need to raise it, add the chemicals and bypass the filter.  Once dispersed, shut off the filter until tomorrow morning.  In the meanwhile, clean the filter out and soak the fingers in a muriatic acid solution.  I never heard of vitamin C being used for this purpose -- it doesn't make sense.  Get the filter ready to be used the next day.  Tomorrow morning, slowly vacuum the sediment on the pool floor to waste.  Take time to get all the precipitate off the floor.  Resume normal filtration.  If there is still floc present it may cause a rise in pressure, so check periodically.  Check the pH and free chlorine levels and adjust as necessary.  Filter 24/7 until the water is clear.  The heater should not have contributed iron the water - copper perhaps.  I suggest that you have the pool and tap water tested for iron and copper.  Good luck.  Hopefully, it will all work out.  Let me know.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 8/12/2005

 

► Cloudy Bluish Pool?

Hello, I hope you can help me with my pool problems. I have a 16x36 inground pool, ( it was here when I moved in) its a fiberglass with a sand filter. O.K.  here's what I was doing.  I had shocked the pool at 1st with the calcium shock, a no-no if you already have hard water!   O.K. these are the results after a water sample was taken to pool place:  total chlorine 10, free chlorine 0, pH 7.5, total alkalinity 180, total hardness 401.  So after that I put in 7 lbs of stabilizer (cyanuric acid or something) and also 1 quart of scale inhibitor to reduce hardness. Still my test strips show no available chlorine and hardness is still high and water is still cloudy!  Help please!   Also I've been backwashing sand filter regularly  I don't know when sand has been changed lately. Should I attempt to vac the bottom even though I can't see it?  When I brush it stirs up gunk, that's for sure.  Thanks

Mike, 5/3/2005

Adding the stabilizer was the right thing to do, only if it was too low!  You never add it because the chlorine level is low.  Zero free chlorine probably indicates the presence of algae and wastes.  This would account for the cloudy water, as well.  You need to add shock - no calcium hypochlorite - until the free chlorine level is 5-10 PPM.  Add product and retest the water every few hours.  Don't drag it out or even more chemicals will be required.  Using the right tester is important.  I suggest that you use the LaMotte Insta-Test Strips, as they are reliable and work well with high or low levels of chlorine.  Visit them at www.lamotte.com  Sand filters are not great at removing dead algae and should not be backwashed regularly - only when the pressure is too high or the filter will lose efficiency.  Inasmuch as you don't know when the sand was last changed, I suggest that you replace the sand.  Using Zeobrite sand filter replacement media, in place of sand, will greatly improve the water quality and make a positive contribution.  You'll only need 1/2 the weight and it is modestly priced.  Visit them at www.zeotechcorp.com  Have the water tested for pH, TA and stabilizer.  Adjust as necessary, trying to keep the pH closer to 7.2.  The scale product will not lower the reading, but will enable more calcium to remain in solution without causing problems.  By lowering the pH close to 7.2, you should be able to avoid scaling conditions.  If in doubt, refer to the page on the Langelier Index and plug in your numbers.  By all means, use the pool vacuum.  I hope that this advice will prove helpful.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 5/3/2005

 

► Grossly Green Pool Water?

I am a new pool owner, and just shocked the pool for the first time.  Now I'm the one shocked!  The pool looked great before, with it's new water.  Right after shocking it, a couple of hours ago, the water turned a gross green and my filter cartridge was coated.  What could be causing this?  Thanks! 

Anne, 5/19/2003

You can rule out algae, even though there is a problem with green pool water.  Shocking doesn't make algae grow.  It sounds like a mineral:  iron, copper, etc.  I suggest that you have the water tested for these metals ASAP!  If using well water, this is not an uncommon problem.  You will have to add some quality mineral treatment, if the water analysis confirms the problem.  Thereafter, if possible, add new water by placing the garden hose in the skimmer and add some mineral treatment, prior to the addition of the water.  Refer to the archives on iron and copper for additional information.  It is important to keep the cartridge clean and maintain good water flow. The Blaster Automatic Filter Cartridge Cleaner makes it easier than ever.  I hope that this information will get you back on track. Good luck.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 5/19/2003

 

► Trying But Not Succeeding?

I am trying to fix my cloudy pool water.  I have had it tested twice.  My pool is 5,000 gallons.  The first test came back that I needed 9 lbs alkalinity, 8 ounces pH, 1 lb shock and 1 pound of chlorine stabilizer.  After I followed the instructions and vacuumed the pool after the pump ran for 8 hours the pool was still the same. It is not registering chlorine.  I then took another water sample back.  The pH and alkalinity are fine, but I cannot  get a chlorine reading.  They told me to keep running the pump for a few days and it would clear up.  Any suggestions?  Thanks. 

Christine, 6/3/2004

All of the chemicals, expect for the shock,  that you added were necessary to balance the water chemistry, but will not contribute to chlorine level.  Assuming that you have recently opened the pool, it would not be uncommon for there to be algae and an accumulation of debris.  Adding 1 pound of shock, is what the label suggests, but it is not always enough.  You must continue adding shock, about a pound at a time for your size pool, until the Free Chlorine level is being maintained in the 1-3 PPM.  At that point the water should be clear.  To help clear the water, try adding a dose of a "Blue" Clarifier.  It is really a matter of adding enough shock to completely destroy all of the algae  and debris and provide an excess to act as a sanitizer.  Good luck and I hope this information will be helpful.  Enjoy the season.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 6/4/2004

 

► Scaling And Cloudy Water?

My pool is located in a very hard water area and I have some scaling and cloudiness issues.  The pool maintenance company has mentioned something called a magnetic conditioner.  What is this?

Roy N., Chandler, AZ, 6/2/2005

Magnetic water conditioners are strong permanent magnets that are strapped on the return lines.  It is reported that pool water passing through the return lines is subjected to a magnetic field, causing micro-changes in some of the water content.  In short, the magnets are said to cause some beneficial changes:  reduction and elimination of calcium scale, improvement in sanitizer efficiency and some positive effects on the overall water chemistry and clarity.  In very hard water situations this type of product can make a substantial improve in the water quality.  No power is required and installation should be a simple.  I hope that I have been of assistance.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 6/2/2005

The Magnetizer Helps Solve Problems?

The easy way to help manage scale problems!

► Cloudy And Scaled After Vacation?

I am new to salt water pools.  Have had it since last January 2007.  It has run fine and stayed crystal clear until I went on vacation 3 weeks ago.  I returned to a slight green pool and a milky looking powder.  The cell needed cleaning and pH was off,  I cleaned the cell and corrected the pH then shocked the pool.  Now the pH is correct, the cell is functioning and the chlorine level is OK.  Pool remains milky looking, filter is clean (cartridge type).  Have run the pump 24/7 for three days and still milky, but all the powder that was on the flat surfaces is gone.  Any ideals what this is.  It is building up on the tiles and looks bad.

Mark, 8/28/2007

Salt chlorine generators tend to cause the pH to rise.  In your absence the pH rose too high and scaling and cloudy water resulted.  In the future, drop the pH to 7.2 before leaving for a 2-3 week period.  Longer periods will require some attention.  See below for insight into the chemistry involved.  An easier way to clean the filter cartridge is with The Blaster.  Try adding a dose of a blue clarifier to help eliminate the cloudiness.  Three factors contribute to scaling conditions:  high calcium hardness (usually over 400 PPM), high pH (usually over 7.8) and total alkalinity (usually over 200 PPM).   All three together make it even worse.  You can lower the pH and TA with acid.  The calcium hardness might be controlled, but not necessarily lowered, by adding a calcium sequestering agent.  I suggest that you test the water for pH, TA and calcium hardness.  Installing The Magnetizer can help control scale-related problems, without chemicals.  The Langelier Index will tell you if the water is scale forming and provide insight to help improve the situation.  I hope that this information prove helpful.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 8/29/2007

 

► Not Quite Perfect?

My water seems to be perfectly clear in the morning.   After the kids start using the pool, I notice that the water is not as clear as I would like.  The pool is big rectangular above ground.  I'm not sure about the size.  I test the water and can find nothing that needs to be corrected.  The next day the pool water is fine and then it get bad all over again.  How can I avoid this problem with cloudy pool water?

Sandy A., 8/11/2003

Having a group of kids jumping into the pool and swimming about is apparently stirring up some silt on the bottom.  This fine silt is causing the change in the water's appearance.  Make sure that the filter is operating during these periods.  Filters can't remove silt from the bottom.  However, once the swimmers raise the silt, it can be filtered out and the problem will slowly get better.  If you don't have an automatic pool cleaner, it is something to consider.   It is an especially important, in the case of a large above ground pool.  Using a robotic pool cleaner will vacuum the bottom and remove the silt.  It is best to do this before the kids jump in.  You might try to vacuum more often, again in the morning before the kids stir things up.  If you add a circulation booster, you will give the filter more opportunity to remove the silt, by keeping it in suspension.  The Circulator, installs easily in the return fittings, and improves circulation by as mush as 1500%.  Better circulation helps produce better water quality. Lastly, you should try using a quality "Blue" Clarifier, after the water has been stirred up:  these products can help remove fine, suspended particles, by increasing the filter efficiency.  Sounds like the kids are enjoying the pool.  Have a good summer!

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 8/11/2003

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► Floc May Not Be The Answer?

I know I’ve seen you say on your website that you really don’t like floc treatments.  Can you explain why?  I flocked the pool and went out the next morning and I thought it looked great.  The water was crystal clear and a lot of the suspended particles were on the bottom of the pool.  I vacuumed up as much as I could while wasting the water.  I did send some of it through the filter simply because I was losing too much pool water.  Thanks for all your help.

Charles, 6/19/2006

For me, floc is a last resort product.  It does work, but it creates more work that it might be worth.  To remove some suspended particles, you create a vast amount of a gelatinous precipitate that falls to the bottom.  Wait overnight and vacuum to waste.  You throw water and chemicals away and if you get the floc into the filter, it may need to be cleaned.  In the end, you may wind up with clear water.  However, the problem that lead to the cloudiness may still be present:  algae, poor filtration or bad water chemistry.  Better to address the problems, of improving filtration, eliminating algae or optimizing the water chemistry, directly.  Once done, a recurrence is less likely.  Sometimes all that is required is a clarifier or shock treatment or a filter cleaning or a chemical adjustment.  I hope that this information is helpful.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 6/20/2006

 

► Disgusting Black To Cloudy Blue?

Hi Alan.  What a great idea for a website!  A lot of very useful information.  I have a question for you.  We had a very bad winter with our inground pool and we had a pool company come over and open it for us.  It is our first year opening our pool because we bought this house at the beginning of the summer last year and the previous owner opened it for us.  Now, we had that black disgusting water and green algae floating all over the top and it smelt like a fishery as they opened it up.  The pool responded to the shock treatment very well right away.  You could see it changing color immediately, which I thought was good.  Today, 24 hours later it is still a cloudy blue.  How long will this take to clear the water?  Not that its warm enough to swim or will be for another month, but just wondering how long to wait.  The filter is running continuously and the circulation is great.  They used a correction kit along with an opening kit.  So, will the water eventually clear itself up or should we give it a few days then add something?  Thank you.

Julia H., Canada, 4/30/2005

You are definitely making progress, but a little help might be in order.  Test the Free Chlorine and try to keep it in the 1-3 PPM.  If necessary, add more shock.  All that algae can require a lot of chlorine.  Adjust the pH to 7.2-7.6.  Some filters are better than others at removing dead algae and fine particles.  You might want to add a dose of a quality blue clarifier to help increase the filter efficiency.  The improvement could be quick and dramatic.  If you have a sand filter, this might be a good time to replace the sand and start off with a clean page.  Even better would be replacing the sand with Zeobrite:  a replacement media for sand filters.  It will produce much better results than ordinary sand.  Make sure that you thoroughly vacuum the bottom, otherwise, when the pool is used, the silt on the bottom might cloud up the water.  If you don't have an automatic vacuum, visit www.smartpool.com  These Robotic Pool Cleaners do a great job and will microfilter the water and they travel the pool.  I hope this information will help you get off on the right track.  Enjoy the season.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 4/30/2005

 

► Pool Water Clouds?

Please help my husband put a gallon of algaecide in our pool, as it was a little green, I did not know he put it in, so I put a gallon in. The pool is not green any more and looks OK, but, when you turn the light on you see clouds. We never had an in ground pool before. It is 25ft by 50ft 3ft-7ft. How can we get the clouds out?  Wife and kids. Thank you.

Palm Coast, Florida, 10/6/2004

Depending upon the type of algaecide used, it is possible that the cloudiness problem is due to a foaming tendency associated with some products.  Is it also possible that the "clouds" are merely dead algae and debris that needs to be removed by filtration.  This seems to fit the facts.  Turning on the light cause there particles to show up.  Dead algae can pass right through some filters.  I suggest that you add a dose of a quality blue clarifier.  You might consider a Robotic Pool Cleaner.  This product not only vacuums the bottom, but acts as a second filter.  It can solve the cloudy pool water problem and save you time and effort, as well as money.  Add a weekly dose of a quality blue clarifier or water polisher, can help coagulate the particles and make the filter more efficient.  I hope that the advice proves helpful.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 10/6/2004

 

► Soda Ash Causes A Cloud?

I am a service technician in southwest Pennsylvania and my problem is that sometimes when I add soda ash to pools to increase the pH the water turns really cloudy and murky.  I was wondering if you could shed some light on maybe why it happens, if there is a way to combat the cloudiness.  If the chlorine is on the higher side about 5ppm would this have something to do with this problem?  I don’t remember this problem happening the past several years.  If you have any ideas I would like to hear them.  Thanks.

Chris, PA, 8/7/2006

Most likely the cause is high calcium hardness - something in the area of at least 300-400 PPM.  As the soda ash dissolves, it creates an area of a very high pH, surrounding the chemical.  This, in turn, decreases the solubility of calcium and can create a cloud of calcium carbonate.  If the soda ash can be added slower and over a greater area with circulating water, it is less likely to happen.  Refer to the Langelier Index page for some insight into the relationship of pH, TA and calcium hardness, as it affects scaling conditions or cloudy water:   It has nothing to do with the brand of chemical, although use of calcium hypochlorite should be avoided.  I hope that this information will prove to be useful.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 8/7/2006

 

► All Stirred Up?

My pool water parameters: chlorine 2 PPM, pH 7.4, alkalinity 70 PPM, total calcium hardness 110 PPM.  The main problem is when many boys (around 20) are swimming the pool water becomes dirty, muddy-looking and cloudy. After they leave, by 5 minutes, the water become very clear.  Have you any answers?  Best regards.

Taysir, 3/12/2003

My guess is that you do not have a main drain.  This "dirty, muddy or cloudy" pool water problem is due to silt on the bottom.  When the boys jump in, they stir up the bottom and this results in cloudy water.  After swimming ceases, the silt settles to the bottom and the water clears up.  I suggest that you add an automatic pool cleaner to the pool.  This will act as a moving main drain and help remove the silt deposits.  Robotic Pool Cleaners have the added benefit of a built-in micro-filter capable of removing dead algae and bacteria and reducing pool water cloudiness.  Another option would be to vacuum more frequently, especially early in the morning, before the pool has been used.  I hope that I have been helpful.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 3/13/2003

 

► Can Acid Cloud Water?

When the free chlorine level is excessive (by adding too much), will the addition of acid (to balance pH) make the water cloudy?

Howard, 8/29/2007

Not likely!  Lowering the pH makes the chlorine more effective and minerals more soluble.  If the pool water clouded up, it might be because the more effective chlorine killed algae present on the walls.  I hope this information will clear things up.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 8/29/2007

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