Bromine pool water
sanitizing has gained in popularity in recent years. While it shares a
similar chemistry with that of chlorine, there are major differences in how the
products are used in a swimming pool. Bromine is available in solid form
and is very slow dissolving. Typically, it is used in a feeder
specifically designed for bromine. Its main advantage over chlorine is the
reduced odor and potential for irritation. Its disadvantages include:
higher cost, not stabilized for use in outdoor pools, limitations of
slow-solubility and requirements for larger-sized, specialized feeders.
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following tests: pH, Free & Total Chlorine, Bromine, Total Alkalinity,
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►
High pH
Problems And Bromine?
It seems that the pH
of my pool is always high. It started a few days after I switched from
chlorine to bromine. Can that have anything to do with the problem?
The water is clear, but the pH seems to be very high. I keep adding acid
and testing, but nothing seems to be happening. I need some advice.
Allen L., Highland
Park, IL, 7/23/2007
The problem can
very well be related to the bromine. However, the fault lies, not with the
bromine, but with the chemicals used to test the pH.
Bromine can
react with phenol red (chemical used to test for pH) and form a purplish-red
color that makes it appear that the pH is very high. In fact, the
formation of this color has nothing to do with the pH. The problem lies in
the fact that the phenol red solution may not have had enough neutralizer (to
prevent bromine from reacting with phenol red) in its formulation. This
can lead to false high pH readings. You are using a bromine product that
is acidic in nature and that should preclude the need for you to have to add
acid reducers. Pools maintained, in this manner, will require pH
increasers and total alkalinity increasers - never acids. I suggest that
you bring in a water sample into a local pool professional, for confirmation
If confirmed, you need to use a
pH test
that is formulated to work with bromine or add a drop of chlorine
neutralizer (available in most pool stores) to the test vial, just prior to
adding the phenol red solution. Now that we have established why the pH
can actually be very low, we must take another step. The low pH
could have caused corrosion. In order to avoid discoloration or staining,
I suggest that you add a double of a Quality Mineral Treatment, prior to raising
the pH or TA. I hope that I have been helpful. Good luck and enjoy
the summer.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 7/23/2007
►
Bromine
vs. Chlorine?
I am currently using
bromine in my pool. It is not a huge pool, 16 X 32, vinyl liner in the
ground. I know that it is costing me more per year to use bromine. I
do prefer the bromine because there is very little odor and the feeder is really
convenient. My question: is bromine worth the difference in cost and what
are the advantages and disadvantages? Appreciate your answer.
Jody F., Brooklyn
Heights, OH, 8/3/2009
You have already
answered part of the question.
Bromine does have much less odor associated
with its use, than does chlorine. Bromine is also less irritating and does
not form ineffective products similar to chloramines. Both can be used
with automatic feeders. However, the bromine feeders are usually larger
and require more product to fill. Both are slow dissolving and have a
similar lowering effect on the pH. Bromine cannot be stabilized against UV
degradation. Chlorine can be stabilized and the buildup of the stabilizer
can lead to the requirement to replace water. Bromine does not have a
buildup problem of similar nature.
Bromine is less affected by higher pH
readings, than is chlorine. Both products are effective sanitizers.
What it may all boil down to is less odor, more comfort and higher costs vs.
more odor, more irritation potential and less cost. There is some
subjectivity in this, so let me add: if it ain't broke - why fix it?
Enjoy the pool.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 8/3/2009
► Extremely High
Bromine Level?
I am getting an extremely high
bromine reading in my 25 year old gunite pool. The only option I have been
given is to drain the pool. Any other ideas?
P. B., 4/4/2004
Bad option!
Assuming that your bromine level is really that high and I'm not at all certain,
it is not necessary to drain any water. First, I would have the water
retested to be sure. If the level is way too high, all you have to do is
to temporarily stop adding more bromine and add a chlorine neutralizer.
Many dealers carry this product, which is meant to very quickly neutralize high
levels of chlorine. In case the product does not have bromine neutralizing
directions, follow the chlorine instructions and add 1/2 as much of the product.
In any event, I would break the recommended amount into 2-3 increments and test
after each addition. There's no point in overshooting the mark and having
to add shock. In the future, adjust the amount of bromine being added to
avoid a repetition. I hope that I have been helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 4/4/2004
► Hassled Opening A
Bromine Pool?
I pray that you can help. I have so far found that owning a pool is a huge
hassle and pool companies are not all that helpful. They just seem to charge me
a fortune. I have a bromine inground pool and need to open it for the first
time this year. I find that most information is geared toward chlorine pools. I
would love to find a good source for helpful information like what chemicals I
should purchase and what steps to take to clean and care for my pool. Can you
please give me some guidance as to what to do. I would love a basic list of
what chemicals to purchase, so that I can get ready. I can't seem to find any
step by step care instructions for my pool. I also have a DE filter.
Please help.
Tracey, 4/2/2005
Opening a
bromine pool is just about the same as a bromine pool. If the pool is
covered, pump off the water and remove the debris. Try very hard not to
let material get into the pool, as it will only add to the cleanup.
If you are unsure about the possibility of iron
and other heavy metals, being present in the tap or pool water, have a sample
tested beforehand.
Raise the water level and get the filter operating. Add enough
shock, any kind of chlorine shock will do, as it will convert to bromine and
raise the bromine level to 5-10 PPM. Maintain this high level until the
water is free of algae and is essentially clear. Adjust the pH to 7.2-7.8,
by adding chemicals as needed. If the total alkalinity is below 80-120
PPM, as chemicals to raise it into this range. Chloride stabilizer is not
needed. Operate the filter for extended periods, until the water is clear.
Test the water frequently, maintain proper bromine levels and there should be
few hassles. Good luck and enjoy the pool.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 4/3/2005
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► Bromine To A Salt
Chlorinator?
I am using bromine as a
sanitizer and am considering adding a salt water chlorine generator. Are
the two compatible? Should I stop using bromine, if I add the generator?
Also I have heard that there is an additive in the bromine tablets that makes it
difficult or impossible to switch sanitizers. Once a bromine pool always a
bromine pool is what I was told. Thanks.
Bashful about bromine,
4/15/2005
It is the
bromide ions that are the problem. Add chlorine and the bromide ions
become bromine. In that sense, it is correct that once a bromine pool,
always a bromine pool. That is, unless you drain the pool and replace the
water. It is not a compatibility issue.
If bromides are present, bromine will be produced
and that can affect the life and performance of the cells. If you choose
to add a salt chlorine generator, you should replace the water and discontinue
all use of bromine.
And you won't miss the bromine!!! With a salt chlorine generator, there is
very little sensation of chlorine being present because the odorous forms are
destroyed, as the water passes through the cell.
For more information on some
fine salt chlorine generators, please click here. I hope that I
have been helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 4/15/2005
► Bromine And Mineral
Sanitizers?
I was told by my local pool
dealer that bromine causes problems with some mineral sanitizing products.
Could you explain why? Thanks for the opportunity to ask the question and
for making this website available.
Frank L., Hamden, CT, 5/12/2005
This is some
truth here. One of the leading mineral sanitizers should not be used in
pools that contain bromine or use sodium bromide algae treatments and chlorine
products. The presence of the bromine will abruptly shorten the life of
their cartridge and the only way to avoid this problem is to replace the water.
And that may not be practical!
THE FROG Mineral Sanitizer
can be used in pools that use bromine or chlorine and it will not interfere with
the expected 6-month life of the cartridge. For more information of the
full line of FROG Mineral Sanitizers go to:
www.kingtechnology.com
I hope that this information will be helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 5/12/2005
► Sensitivity Issues?
My husband and I just had our
in-ground plaster pool finished and are about to add chemicals. We are not sure
which system to use... Bromine, Chlorine or ionization? We would rather go with
something that is better for skin, we have a family member that is sensitive to
Chorine. We use Bromine for our above-ground spa and like it, but have read
that Bromine in a pool (ours is very large) in HOT (we live in AZ) does not do
as well as Bromine. We want what will be most effective. Not to concerned
about extra cost if better. Can you educate us on the differences and what may
be best. I believe our pool will come with an ozonator. Thanks for your help.
Phyllis, Arizona, 2/26/2005
Assuming that
your pool will be equipped with an
ozonator, there are some good choices.
Ozonators require a persistent, backup sanitizer to help keep the pool
sanitized, as ozone's presence can be short lived. Ionization or a
mineral sanitizer would ordinarily be a good choice. However, I believe that you
might be better off avoiding this type of sanitizer for the first six months, in
order to allow the plaster to completely cure. You have ruled out
chlorine. Bromine has not been ruled out, except as related to cost.
Bromine usage will be more expensive
because of the heat and the strong Arizona Sun. However, the bromine
requirements will be drastically reduced by the use of the ozonator. In
short, the amount of bromine required, to maintain any given PPM level, will be much
less because of the ozonator.
Given the sensitivity issues,
I would give this approach the first try. If it proves too costly, you
could switch to ionization or a mineral sanitizing system, after six months. I hope
that this information proves useful.
To better assure proper overall
pool water chemistry, visit a pool store that has a very reliable, professional
lab such as a WaterLink or Pinpoint system, rather than a less accurate test kit
or strip reader.
To locate a dealer near you, go
to:
www.lamotte.com/pages/pool/expdeal/index.html
Good luck with the pool.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 2/27/2005
► Shocking Questions?
I am so glad I found your
site, I ran into a bit of water trouble and your site helped me out a great
deal. I have a couple of quick questions to ask you please.
1. We use bromine tablets in
a dispenser, it is only my husband and I that use the hot tub, we rarely have
other user. I notice that after I add a shock treatment, a specific weekly
amount that my dealer recommends as a weekly treatment, by bromine levels go
off the chart, and it can take weeks for it to come back down. Especially if
the bromine was in a good range before I shocked it. If the bromine is in good
shape before shocking it, what is one to do so as not to cause this huge lag
in usage? 2. I am in
a cold climate and I chose to keep the outdoor spa going all winter, there
were a few months there where we did not use it so we turned the heater down
to the point of not letting the water freeze how does this fair on water
quality safety?
Sam, 3/15/2004
Interesting
questions! If you are maintaining a satisfactory level of bromine, at
all times, the addition of the shock will always cause the bromine level to
rise. Shocking does help destroy organic contamination and help avoid the
formation of resistant microorganisms. In your case, I would either cut
back on the amount of shock or only shock if the water quality deteriorates, the
bromine level bottoms out or after periods of heavy bather activity. If
your bromine level is in the 3-5 PPM range, adding shock can boost the bromine
to uncomfortably high levels. If the level is below 3-5 PPM, adding a
small amount of shock will quickly boost the level. The turning off of the
heater is not a problem. The lower water temperatures help prevent
microbial growth. Think of it as refrigerated water. The presence of
a small amount of bromine at lower temperatures should suffice to maintain good
water quality. When you're ready to resume normal operation, add some
shock. Add it in increments. Remember you can always add more - you
can't take out. I hope that I have been helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 3/15/2004
► Using A Chlorinator?
I, too, am grateful to have
found your site! You are now bookmarked forever! I have just replaced my
liner on my 16x32 inground pool and have chosen to go to bromine as my
chemical. I have been told by my dealer that a brominator is the same as a
chlorinator, and therefore am in the process of buying and installing a
chlorinator from them for my bromine tablets. Any reading I have done on
this suggest that I am being misdirected and now need some intelligent advice.
Sincerely.
S. B., New Brunswick, Canada,
8/2/2005
Unless that piece of equipment states that it can be used with chlorine or
bromine and it suitable for a pool of your size, you are not using the correct
product. Bromine tablets are far less soluble than are the popular trichlor
products. In order to help assure that enough bromine dissolves, the
brominators are larger in order to accommodate more tablets. Possibly, how the
water passes through is different as well.
You should
only use a product that is labeled as suitable for bromine.
Otherwise, there could be a safety risk and the possibly that you will not be
able to get the bromine tablets to dissolve quickly enough to meet the demands
of the pool. I hope this information proves helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 8/3/2005
► Bromine Compatibility?
Hi Alan, I am a new inground pool owner and am
overwhelmed with all the products out there for sanitizing and for control of
pH, algae, and so forth. I am using bromine products currently because that
is what I received when the pool was installed in July. I really like the
bromine compared to chlorine that my friends use and want to continue with
it. Are all bromine sanitizers the same? Can I use another companies
product? Can I use any algae prevention product with bromine, or are some
only to be used with chlorine, and some with bromine products? I would ask my
pool supply store, but not sure if they would tell me the truth since I
wouldn't be purchasing the products they sell. Thanks.
R T., 9/3/2004
Bromine and
chlorine share a similar chemistry. Compatibility is not an issue.
All bromine, in solid forms, are not exactly the same. There are slight
chemical differences that effect how the material can be made into solid shapes.
These differences do not lead to any significant differences in the actual use
of the bromine. In general bromine is difficult to tabletize and some
tablets make keep from chipping better than others. They all work the
same. The only chlorine that you should not use is chlorine stabilizer, as
it will serve no useful purpose in a bromine pool. I hope that I have been
helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 9/3/2004
► Looking To Save
Money?
Hi Alan, we just
put in a large inground pool. We are going through bromine tablets like crazy.
I pay $150 per 50 pounds of bromine. Do you know of a place I can order bromine
cheaper? Thanks.
Dan B., 8/30/2003
I don't have
any chemical pricing information. You can reduce your bromine consumption,
by supplementing the bromine tablets with regular additions of a chlorine
product or shock. For example, lower the settings on the brominator and
add liquid chlorine to boost the bromine level. It will work because the
chlorine will convert to bromine. As a bonus, you'll find the pH will
remain more stable. It does work.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 8/30/2003
►
Choosing
A Bromine Test Kit?
What is the best way
to test for bromine in a pool? Thanks for any help you can offer.
Harry A.,
Bloomington, IN, 5/12/2004
I would
not suggest that you use any swimming pool test kit, unless it is specifically
made to test for bromine!!! Bromine can interfere with the
pH test and give a false high test result, if the pH test materials are not
formulated properly or the bromine levels are very high. There are several different test methods in
use.
Test Strips have come
a long way in terms of reliability, accuracy and the majority of them can
perform the bromine test. The convenience and lack of liquid chemicals
makes them a choice of growing popularity.
DPD
Test Kits are suitable for bromine testing. I hope that I have been
of assistance. Enjoy the pool.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 5/12/2004
► From Chlorine To
Bromine?
Is it possible to convert a
chlorine pool to a bromine pool without draining the pool? If you know the
procedure, would you please email it to me. Thank you.
Greg C., 2/8/2005
There really
isn't anything that you have to do. If you add some sodium bromide, all of
the chlorine will quickly convert to bromine. Otherwise, all you need is
to keep the pH at 7.2-7.8 and the bromine level at 3-5 PPM. Good luck and
have fun!
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 2/8/2005
► Bromine-Chlorine
Shuffle?
Is it possible to use Bromine in the summer and
Chlorine in the winter. My daughters hair turns green from the chlorine
and our eyes burn somewhat after long swim days, so I would like to use Bromine
in the summer. The pool is not used much in the winter and I would like to save
some money by using Chlorine we have an automatic feeder that says it will work
with either.
Larry G., 8/11/2005
Yes!!! Once
you start using bromine, you will establish a reservoir of bromide ions.
Subsequent additions of chlorine will convert into bromine. I am not sure
that you'll save much money. Once bromide ions are present, the
chlorine consumption will increase, due to the fact that bromide is not
protected against destruction by the Sun's UV rays. Green hair
isn't necessarily due to chlorine. Have the water tested for copper.
If you have a heater, it is a virtual certainty that you caused copper
corrosion, as a result of low pH conditions. At the very least add a
double dose of a quality metal treatment. The eye irritation can be due to
high levels of combined chlorine. The ideal level for free chlorine is 1-3
PPM. Total chlorine should not be more than 1 PPM higher. The
difference is combined chlorine. Make sure that you are testing for free
and total chlorine. A product such as the
LaMotte Insta Test strip will provide a
better picture of the state of the pool's chlorine level. Have you ever
considered a
salt chlorine generator?
It will provide better results, with fewer problems. I hope this
information proves helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 8/11/2005
► Bromine - Chlorine
Interaction?
I used
bromine in the beginning of last year to sanitize my pool. Now, I have
learned that I cannot use chlorine, after using bromine, unless I wait “a long
time”. Do you believe that a full season later the bromine should be
lowered enough that do not have to drain the pool. Is
there a test kit that measures only bromine and not chlorine? Is it true
that it is more difficult to stabilize the pH in brominated
water? Thanks!
Werner N.,
6/23/2004
Once bromine is used in a pool, a
residue of bromide ions remains for an indeterminate period of time. The
bromide ions convert into bromine, upon the addition of chlorine. The only
sure way to avoid bromine formation would be to completely replace the water.
A season later, there could still be significant bromide concentrations, as it
does depend upon the original concentrations. You can use chlorine without
doing anything. However, some or all of the chlorine may be converted into
bromine. As time goes by, less bromide ions will be available. The same
test kits are used for chlorine and bromine. It is no more difficult to
maintain the pH of a bromine pool. In fact, bromine pools are suggested to
maintain a pH of 7.2-7.8, as opposed to 7.2-7.6 for chlorine pools.
I hope that the information proves helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
6/25/2004
►
Cold Fusion?
I read many of your responses to questions
about using chlorine shock in a brominated system and your answer has been:
"When you add a non-chlorine shock to bromine maintained water it destroys
contamination or converts into bromine. Guess what? The same thing will
happen, if you use chlorine. It all ends up as bromine. Isn't
chemistry great! " and "Because you are on bromine, any chlorine or non-chlorine
shock will be converted into bromine. Isn't chemistry great! "
Essentially you're saying chlorine (17 protons) turns into bromine (35
protons), but I'm not sure that is technically possible. Could you explain more
of the chemistry of using typical chlorine or non-chlorine shock chemicals
interacting with typical brominating tablet chemicals? Also, do you think
it is possible for chlorine to end up as bromine, if there is no bromine
introduced into the system? Chemistry is great!
Thanks.
Erika, 4/12/2006
You are not the first to bring this
up. I am not advocating cold fusion! You are taking it too literal. By
chlorine, I mean hypochlorous acid - the active form of chlorine in water.
Bromine refers to hypobromous acid. If bromide ions are present,
hypochlorous acid will oxidize it to hypobromous acid and the hypochlorous
acid will be reduced to chloride ions. With non-chlorine shock, the
persulfate ions oxidize the bromide ions and, in the process, are reduced to
sulfate ions. This is simply an oxidation-reduction reaction. The confusion is
in the use of the popular terminology for chlorine and bromine. I hope
that I have clarified the matter. No cold fusion - not even close!
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
4/12/2006
►
